Countryguy

Ive been looking to figure out where my motor came from, but no matter where I go I cant find my numbers?? The passenger side block stamping is 2m0918-6vp, the driver side back is 0066036, and the heads are 1401441. If you guys can help me that would be wonderful, I cant seem to find any of them on various websites. Thanks ya'll

AlkyIROC

Incomplete numbers but judging by what you currently know, it looks like a 305.

Get all the stamped numbers on the pad in front of the passenger side head. That will tell you a lot more information.

Countryguy

Those are all the numbers I have on the passenger side block where it meets the head. The 00 numbers are on the driver side back of the block, Its not an orginal camaro motor, the guy rebuilt it said it was a 383 stroker. I was stumped that I couldnt find any of the numbers on various websites, they dont even look similer to what I had found.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

There are more numbers somewhere on the block; none of those are complete.

However, 14104416 is a very common 305 head.

Countryguy

Thank you the last number on the head is a 6 not a 1, I can even take pictures of them and show you guys, but those are all the numbers I have. I did find it strange to because I had a 305 in my Chevy K10 and it wasnt even close to the motor in the camaro, the numbers I found easily for the K10. I think ill take some pictures and post them on here to show ya'll.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Right: that's a very familiar #, with the 6 on the end.

No those aren't all the numbers you have. There's definitely more. Remember, it's mass production, and that means there's AHELLUVALOT MORE of em in the world just exactly like the one you have there, and they all have more numbers, so yours does too. Blee dat. They're probably just all buried in the funk of 10,000 ages or under some wire loom or something.



Here's where they are and what they look like. Same place as every other Chevy V8, looks the same as all the others too. That includes 262.5, 265, 267, 283, 302, 302, 327, 350, and 400 blocks, from 1955 to 2000; as well as the "W" motors from the late 50s and early 60s, and all the various Mark xx big blocks. Most likely yours is one of those and therefore is just like all the rest.

Countryguy

Thanks sofa I got a real good look at the block casting numbers with the camera, The driver side numbers is 10066036, and this is what I got from joesantiquecars.com
(10066036 350 4bolt main Crate Motor, 2 pcs. seal, Hecho En Mexico) Im sorry I missed the 1 in front of the zeros. With 305 heads 1401446. Im just puzzled still about the passenger numbers? How do I put a picture on here?

Countryguy

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

The heads are 14014416. Very familiar 305 head.

Since that motor didn't come with a vehicle, there's not alot of info in that stamping code.

The heads didn't come with the block, if it was bought as a whole motor at all. Could have been an over-the-counter replacement short block that somebody put their existing heads onto.

Very doubtful it's a 383. Not impossible, but certainly unlikely. People don't generally buy new engines from GM and immediately disassemble them (and thereby void the $$$warranty$$$... the only real reason to buy a new one from GM in the first place) to turn it into something else. Much cheeeeeper to do that to a junk one. So .... yeah.

Only way to know for sure though, is to take it apart and look.

Countryguy

Even when the back of the block numbers are 10066036 saying its a 350, it could be a 305? Ill pull the heads tonight and take a look. So the 2m0918-6vp means nothing? Or just not of your knowledge? Thats my main concern it dont make sense to me. Thank you sofa for the info and the help, I greatly appreciate it!

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

No. Not possible. Can't shrink a 4.000" bore down to 3.736".

However, it is plainly obvious, your 350 block has 305 heads bolted to it.

No unfortunately those numbers mean nothing to me. Most of them are of no value anyway; but they at least mean something. All those tell me, is that your block didn't come in a vehicle, but instead was an over-the-counter service replacement engine. Wouldn't matter anyway; the heads are something that would NEVER have come on that block, so whatever engine the block used to be part of, if it was purchased as a complete engine at all, no longer exists. It's now part of the engine you're looking at now. So they are no longer of any consequence. Not only do they not mean anything, whatever they would have meant before, they no longer even mean that.

So whatever it is you want to know about your motor, you'll have to find out some other way.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Most likely the 305 heads were put on the 350 block. May have even been a new 350 shortblock.

The only way to know if the 350 was turned into a 383 is with more investigation. You might be able to tell whether the harmonic damper on the front has a weight on one side, which is common with 383 stroker cranks in 2-piece rear main seal engines.

Countryguy

Thank you guys very much, so I have a 350 with 305 heads, I pulled that heads off and found that I do have a 383 ! I will leave it at that theres no need to keep investigating anything else. Cant wait to get it back together and drive it! Drove it home and thats the last I drove it for six months now. My camaro overheats, do those plastic pieces around the hood release, and underneath the car really help that much?

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

The air deflector (plastic piece) under the car is the one that counts. It directs the cool air to the front of the rad. (I think) ....Of course, overheating can be caused by numerous other things....

Countryguy

I figured that could be a problem, the camaro is an rs. What im thinking is that the guy used the v6 radiator with the v8 thats in it, and thats the main reason i think. The fan turns on, it had no thermostat in it, has a cowl hood, headers, big edlebrock filter, edlebrock intake. I really think that the dam, and the v6 radiator is the problem, What ya'll think?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

The radiator probably isn't the problem.

The air dams, DEFINITELY are needed.

A common cause of actual overheating is inadequate ignition timing advance.

A common cause of various boiling-over, spewing, steaming, and other behavior that looks eomething like "overheating" but isn't, is a bad radiator cap.

AlkyIROC

Thermostat is always required. Although the thermostat mainly keeps the heat in the engine until it gets warm then opens to allow coolant to flow through the rad, running with no thermostat also means the coolant flows too quickly through the cooling system and the coolant can't pull the heat out of the metal or is flowing too fast through the rad to have the heat removed.

If you want to run without a thermostat, you need to put a restrictor plate in it's place to slow the coolant down but with no thermostat, the engine can take a long time to warm up plus could run too cool.

An engine will never overheat because of a thermostat unless it becomes stuck closed. Once the thermostat is open, it's open and the rest of the cooling system removes the heat. The thermostat only keeps the engine from dropping below the set temperature.

How did you determine that you have a 383 just by pulling the heads off? Did you measure the stroke?

Countryguy

I bought a new thermostat for it, but when i didnt have a thermostat my temp gauges slowly rise like normal and then keeps going to about the 220 range. Im going to make some air dams for it while i wait for my lifters to come today, rad cap is good, I personally think the radiator might be to small, but we'll see what the air dams do and the thermo. As for the heads I wanted to see what the pistons and bore look like, took them off and still looks pretty good, the pistons were stamped. But I decided to clean the crap out of the car from the po, found some nasty stuff! But came across receipts that said they the pistons were .030 which is the same as the stamp on it. It said what I could read was a 3.75 stroke crank? maybe?

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

How could you tell by pulling the heads?

Just because engine has been bored out and has OS pistons does not mean it has a stroker crank

Countryguy

Very true vetteoz, I found stampings on the pistons saying .030, I was cleaning out the car and found under the back seat the receipt for the work. I cant really read it but it looks like it says 3.75 stroke crank. Im not sure if thats correct or not? I wish I could see what kind of cam I have but its almost completely gone from the receipt. It sounds awesome with my flowmasters!

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

If you've got a head off, you don't need receipts.

Besides, that receipt you have could be for the PO's OWN motor, while that one got his old crank or something. It doesn't prove ANYTHING. For that matter, the PPO could have left that in the car for whatever reason, which would then have misled the PO, who then might have "thought" it was a 383, and told you that in good faith even though it was wrong. You have NO WAY of knowing whether that receipt is related to that engine, just because it was laying under the seat. Could be; but that's not proof.

Only way to be positive what you've got, is TO MEASURE IT.

Fortunately, this is extremely eeeezy, and can be done with very simple, common measuring tools.

First, turn the crank by hand, until a piston is at the top. See how far "down in the hole" it is when it's at TDC. Should be something between about .020" (a little thicker than a business card) and .050" (about 3 business cards). If you have a straightedge (a stainless steel ruler from the office supply store will do fine) you can lay that across the cyl and use a feeler gauge to be more exact. This is an important measurement, CRITICAL when calculating the compression ratio, called "deck clearance". It's NEVER in the "catalog" for pistons, and most people just leave it out when "calculating" their CR, and therefore "calculate" TOO HIGH by usually anywhere from a half-point to a full point. That clearance has a MASSIVE effect on the compression.

Then rotate the crank exactly 180º (½ revolution), such that the piston is at BDC. Measure how far down it is now. Extreme precision is not necessary for this: a ruler or tape measure will do.

If it went just shy of 3½", it's a 350. The stroke of the 350 is actually 3.48".

If it went 3¾", it's a 383, because that engine uses the stroke of the 400, which is 3.75".

ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS measure WHATEVER you possibly can when it's apart, and WRITE DOWN EVERYTHING YOU FIND, so that later on, when you're buying parts, you don't have to guess at anything.

Countryguy

Thank you sofa. Im going to go measure it soon, got my lifters and push rods all soaked and ready to go! Do I really need to use a torque wrench on the rocker studs when they only need to be torqued to 22 ft lbs? I know I should but I dont have one and dont know anybody that does. Autozone is very expensive to rent one, and I know you get the money back but I dont have the $50 to put on it right now.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Not sure where you got 22 ft-lbs from?

Your rocker studs are pressed in, unless somebody has changed them. No torque possible or required.

If they've been changed, they need about 50-55 ft-lbs.

Countryguy

Sorry I read the wrong torque spec. I was meaning the lock nuts do they absolutely need to be torqued with a torque wrench or can I just tighten them?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

No, the lock nuts must be adjusted to set the "preload" of the lifter plungers to within their range. They are not "torqued" at all. No torque wrench required for those.

The main place you'll need one, is the head bolts.

If you think you can't afford the right tools th efirst time, do you think you'll be able to afford to screw it up, then have to buy the tools and more materials (gaskets, fluids, etc.) and deal with the down time, when it fails?

Do it right. You'll be glad you did. And most likely, sorry if you try to cut important corners.

Go to Sears and get a beam-type torque wrench. Cheeeeep, eeeeeezy, effective. That's all I have and use.

Countryguy

I have two nuts on my rocker arm studs. One is for preload the bottom nut, and what I thought is that the second one on top of the bottom nut for preload was to lock them so the preload nuts dont move?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

So the bottom nut is probably the actual rocker nut, and the top one is just a jam nut. (not the factory setup, but works fine anyway)

You tighten the bottom one just enough to take all the clearance out of the valve train, and then a little more (½ turn or so) to preload the lifter, then jam it with the other one to hold it in place.

None of it gets set to any particular torque.

Countryguy

Ok, thank you sofa that is what I did. Getting to timing my motor today, got to see if my thermostat housing leaks again, think the po striped the treads on the intake for one of the bolts.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Happens all the time... just Heli-Coil it, if that's the case. And put heavy grease or anti-seize on the bolt threads to keep them from rusting solid together again.

Countryguy

Where can I get a heli-coil, and ive never have used one before. Are they hard to use and or any tips?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Get em at any parts store. Even AZ and Advance and such. Home Depot or Lowe's would be other places to look.

Can't say about "hard".... brain surgery isn't "hard" to a brain surgeon, but I don't think you want me wrenching inside your skull. But almost every hot-rodder with more than a couple of minor jobs of experience, has had to use them, and been successful; l so I'd say, not hard enough to worry about it.

No real tips.... when you see em, you'll figure it out. They're pretty self-explanatory.

Countryguy

Thanks lol I got one and it was very easy to use. Fired it up and got it timed and its still knocking! YIPPIE Looks like im going to have to rebuild it. I dont know what it could be, Just got brand new lifters and push rods in it. I know theres a whole list of things that could be wrong with motor.