Starting a new yet old engine
07-13-2011, 07:58 PM
#1
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Car: Pontiac FIREBIRD
Engine: 3.8L
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Starting a new yet old engine
im getting in a project with this 92 bird that has 12k "documented miles" and its most likely its been sitting since the year it was purchased. before i give her first crank, what good signs should i be looking for?crank her with the original parts, or change with new parts to insure an good start? not rebuild but as is. with more common issues with sitting engines, basics?. need some advice. thx thirdgen=)
07-14-2011, 08:47 AM
#2
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Re: Starting a new yet old engine
Definitely flush all the fuel system.
If it's a V8, buy an oil pump primer and use it. If it's a v6, get a spare distributor from a junk yard, and modify that to be your oil pump priming tool.
Do do it correctly, mark the locations of the dizzy and the rotor, and mark the damper. Then chock the tool into a drill. Run the primer while slowly turning the crank 2 full turns.
Reinstall the dizzy as per your marks.
Moving on, clean all the spark plugs.
Some of the valvesprings will probably be weakened, so no high revs until you replace them. When you do those, do new valve seals.
If it's a V8, buy an oil pump primer and use it. If it's a v6, get a spare distributor from a junk yard, and modify that to be your oil pump priming tool.
Do do it correctly, mark the locations of the dizzy and the rotor, and mark the damper. Then chock the tool into a drill. Run the primer while slowly turning the crank 2 full turns.
Reinstall the dizzy as per your marks.
Moving on, clean all the spark plugs.
Some of the valvesprings will probably be weakened, so no high revs until you replace them. When you do those, do new valve seals.
07-14-2011, 07:23 PM
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Car: Pontiac FIREBIRD
Engine: 3.8L
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Starting a new yet old engine
Definitely flush all the fuel system.
If it's a V8, buy an oil pump primer and use it. If it's a v6, get a spare distributor from a junk yard, and modify that to be your oil pump priming tool.
Do do it correctly, mark the locations of the dizzy and the rotor, and mark the damper. Then chock the tool into a drill. Run the primer while slowly turning the crank 2 full turns.
Reinstall the dizzy as per your marks.
Moving on, clean all the spark plugs.
Some of the valvesprings will probably be weakened, so no high revs until you replace them. When you do those, do new valve seals.
If it's a V8, buy an oil pump primer and use it. If it's a v6, get a spare distributor from a junk yard, and modify that to be your oil pump priming tool.
Do do it correctly, mark the locations of the dizzy and the rotor, and mark the damper. Then chock the tool into a drill. Run the primer while slowly turning the crank 2 full turns.
Reinstall the dizzy as per your marks.
Moving on, clean all the spark plugs.
Some of the valvesprings will probably be weakened, so no high revs until you replace them. When you do those, do new valve seals.
07-14-2011, 09:42 PM
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Re: Starting a new yet old engine
I'm amazed that noone else has chimed in.
The best way to prime your engine is with a scrap distributor. Grind off the gear teeth and cut off the adv. weight housing. When you are done,you will be left with a shaft that you can chuck in a 1/2 drill. The shaft body must be present to pressurize the system. While priming, turn the crankshaft two full revolutions. This will allow all of the passages of the crank to line up with the bearing passages, they need oil too. By installing the distributor housing you will seal the massive leak to the lifter galley that is occurring.
The best way to prime your engine is with a scrap distributor. Grind off the gear teeth and cut off the adv. weight housing. When you are done,you will be left with a shaft that you can chuck in a 1/2 drill. The shaft body must be present to pressurize the system. While priming, turn the crankshaft two full revolutions. This will allow all of the passages of the crank to line up with the bearing passages, they need oil too. By installing the distributor housing you will seal the massive leak to the lifter galley that is occurring.
This way you're getting fresh, pressurized oil to all of the bearings and lifters, before trying to start the engine. And you're using the power of an electric drill to do it.
To turn the crank, use a ratchet and socket to turn the damper bolt, clockwise. Or if you're vigorous, just use leather gloves, and turn the crank pulley by hand. I've done it that way.
To turn the crank, use a ratchet and socket to turn the damper bolt, clockwise. Or if you're vigorous, just use leather gloves, and turn the crank pulley by hand. I've done it that way.
07-14-2011, 11:42 PM
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Car: Pontiac FIREBIRD
Engine: 3.8L
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Starting a new yet old engine
when you say dizzy, do you mean the whole thing, shaft and everything? not just the cap?
07-15-2011, 06:30 PM
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Car: Pontiac FIREBIRD
Engine: 3.8L
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Starting a new yet old engine
I'm amazed that noone else has chimed in.
The best way to prime your engine is with a scrap distributor. Grind off the gear teeth and cut off the adv. weight housing. When you are done,you will be left with a shaft that you can chuck in a 1/2 drill. The shaft body must be present to pressurize the system. While priming, turn the crankshaft two full revolutions. This will allow all of the passages of the crank to line up with the bearing passages, they need oil too. By installing the distributor housing you will seal the massive leak to the lifter galley that is occurring.
The best way to prime your engine is with a scrap distributor. Grind off the gear teeth and cut off the adv. weight housing. When you are done,you will be left with a shaft that you can chuck in a 1/2 drill. The shaft body must be present to pressurize the system. While priming, turn the crankshaft two full revolutions. This will allow all of the passages of the crank to line up with the bearing passages, they need oil too. By installing the distributor housing you will seal the massive leak to the lifter galley that is occurring.
This way you're getting fresh, pressurized oil to all of the bearings and lifters, before trying to start the engine. And you're using the power of an electric drill to do it.
To turn the crank, use a ratchet and socket to turn the damper bolt, clockwise. Or if you're vigorous, just use leather gloves, and turn the crank pulley by hand. I've done it that way.
To turn the crank, use a ratchet and socket to turn the damper bolt, clockwise. Or if you're vigorous, just use leather gloves, and turn the crank pulley by hand. I've done it that way.
sorry to burst your bubble good sir. but is it possible to get some examples, pics, diagrams of some sort? im quite new at auto mechanics but picking up quick. thanks again for the very helpful information =)
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07-16-2011, 11:30 AM
#8
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Re: Starting a new yet old engine
I've never seen a movie of how it's done, but there should be one. I'll see what a bit of Google turns up. Meanwhile, go ahead and find a spare distributor, it can even be from a TBI 2.8L S-10, and start modifying it as described above.
It's a shame, but understandable, that you can't just buy an oil pump priming tool for these engines. But they're just not as popular as the SBC V8, so the sales would be minimal, especially at the necessarily higher cost.
You can get a spare distributor for $5 or so, certainly under $20, and that's cheaper than the slow-selling and non-existent tool would be.
It's a shame, but understandable, that you can't just buy an oil pump priming tool for these engines. But they're just not as popular as the SBC V8, so the sales would be minimal, especially at the necessarily higher cost.
You can get a spare distributor for $5 or so, certainly under $20, and that's cheaper than the slow-selling and non-existent tool would be.
07-16-2011, 02:39 PM
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Re: Starting a new yet old engine
Good news: A 5 minute search turned up 3 short movies.
I forgot to note that you need to do an oil and filter change before priming, and add a bottle of EOS or other ZDDP additive. Also, your oil pump shaft needs to turn clockwise, as viewed from above.
The third will be most helpful, BUT you cannot just use the socket and extension, as he did with his Ford, because the Ford block he used doesn't have any oil passages (horizontal in your V6) intersecting the distributor bore (vertical in both his and yours)
Also, he didn't have any pre-alignment marks as I suggested you do. I suggest you use some White-Out. If you do, it'll make your job easier. But still, you'll be doing basically all the same things as that guy.
In all 3, they mention watching an oil pressure gauge. Not necessary. And in all 3, they fail to turn the crankshaft. Must be old movies.
Anyway,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tOYLlr8uQ8k
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whnWwRdN5A0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U-uGJ69-2gs
I forgot to note that you need to do an oil and filter change before priming, and add a bottle of EOS or other ZDDP additive. Also, your oil pump shaft needs to turn clockwise, as viewed from above.
The third will be most helpful, BUT you cannot just use the socket and extension, as he did with his Ford, because the Ford block he used doesn't have any oil passages (horizontal in your V6) intersecting the distributor bore (vertical in both his and yours)
Also, he didn't have any pre-alignment marks as I suggested you do. I suggest you use some White-Out. If you do, it'll make your job easier. But still, you'll be doing basically all the same things as that guy.
In all 3, they mention watching an oil pressure gauge. Not necessary. And in all 3, they fail to turn the crankshaft. Must be old movies.
Anyway,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tOYLlr8uQ8k
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whnWwRdN5A0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U-uGJ69-2gs
Last edited by ronnjonn; 07-16-2011 at 02:50 PM.
07-16-2011, 03:39 PM
#10
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Car: 1982 Z28 T-Top Camaro
Engine: Vortec 355
Transmission: T-5 5Speed Manual
Axle/Gears: Stock Limited Slip
Re: Starting a new yet old engine
Deff new oil, Oil filter, Plugs, Plug wires, old dry rotted vaccum lines, check radiator, fuel filter, (Make sure inside of gas tanks isnt rusted! That was my prob bout a year ago) use additives in ur oil (i like lucas) Tip: Use compression guage on all cylinders to eliminate bad valves or rings if anyting goes wrong. Typically it will smoke bad for a few mins but should clear, but if not compression check
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