z28yourstang

iTrader: (1)

I'm about to buy a vortec 350 block to start building a short block on the side for my z28. My question is it worth all the extra dough on brand new rotating assembly for the 383 or could I make enough power with a 355 reusing stock crank and rods. I don't mind spinning the extra money if it will make that much of a difference....im shooting for 10.5:1 compression using afr 1040 heads and a holley stealth ram with a LE226/232 camshaft. Ill be running a probuilt 700r4 with an edge stall to match the cam and 3.23 gears. If I decide on 383 I might go up a size on the cam. Just want to know if the extra cash is worth it on a car that is 90% street driven.

FRMULA88

YES !

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

If replacing ANY rotating assembly parts, just go 383.
And I'd go with a forged crank. I know it's tempting to go for the cheap cast rotating assembly, but that would be a downgrade in reliability from your stock crank. If you really think you'll never push it beyond 6000, then I suppose you could justify a cast stroker crank.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Big thing is more midrange and low end torque with a 383. Abit more hp also if cam and intake support it, since a decent street motor is 1.2-1.3 hp per cube you could see some decent gains but alot of the times same cam and heads but a change of stroke makes similar hp just at 300-400 rpms lower, hence more torque.

Budget i'd say keep stock crank but new rods. That combo will make 360 whp and be plenty fun

whatever84

I've seen both, similar builds and to be totally honest if you're going to keep it naturally aspirated and keep the revs in check there's not a big difference between a 350 and 383 but if you needed a new rotator it would be silly to not go with the 383 (hardly any difference in price in the 2 rotators), the 383 will have more torque down low and keep an edge on the 350 all the way thru the revs. Its just not a night and day difference. you will have a strong runner either way with the parts you listed. my 2cents.




Mark.

skinny z

If a new rotating assembly isn't needed then there's no need to spend the money there.
An OEM cast crank and rods will do the job (at the power levels the cam and heads are capable of) provided you keep the rpms reasonable (which they should be with the cam you've selected). Just go for the insurance of aftermarket rod bolts (which will necessitate a re-sizing of the rods). I've had plenty of trouble free miles with an OEM rotating assembly as described with rpms limited to 6500.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

IMO, "90%" street driven is the key thing. A 383 is going to give you more torque down low by virtue of the added displacement. The fun factor will be higher with the 383 below 5K RPM's.

If the old rotating assembly is in good shape and you are on a budget, then stay 350-ish. But if you have the cash, and have it torn down anyway......

1gary

Before anything.Make sure the engine you getting and whatever was done to it is verified.Block mag'ed,block deck to crank center line is square,main bearing saddles are parallel to each other and round,bores are round and to spec with no boring done that is needed until the intended piston/rod combo is in the machine shops hands.Deck the block using the stacked parts method.All these details are low cost free power adding reliability.

cuisinartvette

383 will make more across the range not just peak
The torque is what youll feel pushing you back in the seat, less throttle to get the same effect than the 350.
Id never do a 350 again...once I go bigger never do a 383 again. You get the idea.

Hell yes go do it!

z28yourstang

iTrader: (1)

Well cost isn't really a big ordeal because ill be building this on the side so I have time to save. I don't want to spin higher then 6500 in this car. I would like to dip into the 11s with this setup. Will the 226/232 be sufficient to meet these goals? Or should I step up to the 232/240? Car weighs 3380 without me at the moment an that is with iron heads and driveshaft an steel hood. Any input is greatly appreciated

z28yourstang

iTrader: (1)

Either cam will be on a 112 lsa instead of 110 and ill be running a 6e program on a '165 ecm and will be having a local member on here tune it. Also was going to get the upgraded afr springs and possibly the hydra rev kit. Does anyone know if the LE cams are easier on the valvetrain then the comp xfi cams? Thanks again

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

If the rest of the car is setup with 1/4 mile performance in mind, then that LE 226/234 cam can take a 3300-3400 F-body deep into the 10's. I assume he spec'd that cam with a 355 in mind? Also assuming it's similar to the one that a few LT1 guys run. What are the lift numbers on it?
No matter if it's a 355 or 383, the cam is the least of your concern for hitting 11's.
Gearing, TC selection (not just stall rpm, but the quality/Brand you go with), suspension setup, and tires will decide whether you go 12's, 11's, or 10's
For 1/4 mile performance, you'd have to go pretty extreme on gearing and TC selection to take advantage of more cam than that in a 355. With your 3.23 gears, I'd definitely go no bigger on cam.
I just saw you mentioned an Edge TC. I've run a few of them; they're good value. What stall range has Andre suggested given the info so far? Street Edge I assume?

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

Why not 110 LSA? emissions or does your tuner have concerns with idle manners with the HSR?
Ease on the valvetrain?.....that question is for Lloyd. He specs cams that run from totally valvetrain friendly to very demanding. He should be giving you the spring req's for the cam. Personally, I'm not a fan of the Hydra Rev idea. Added cost/complexity/risk where a quality valvetrain will do the job just fine. I run a 228/234/108 .617 lift cam (pretty sure more aggressive than what he's talking for yours) in my Impala, spinning to 7100 rpm with conventional valvetrain; factory hr lifters, thickwall 5/16" pushrods, beehive springs about 160# on the seat, 7/16" rocker studs, and have no issues after 3 seasons of drag racing and some roadcourse mileage.

skinny z

Deep into the 10's with a 224 cam and 3400 lbs?
Trhat's starting too sound like Super Stock stuff.
For what it's worth, at 3700 lbs and 400 chp, I've managed 12.6 at 107. My calculations tell me it would take another 50 hp or 500 less lbs to get into the 11's. Granted that's no drag racing chassis and a converter that'll only flash to 3500 rpm and foot braking.

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

Hey skinny, c'mon let's round that stuff the other way.....let's say a 226 cam and the 3300 lbs he's more likely to be at
Seriously though, LE and AI custom cams that size paired with good cylinder heads are making 500 crank hp in LT1 350/355's. And I don't see the HSR as being much if any more restrictive than a stock LT1 intake. I'm about 540 at the crank with the 228/234 cam and ported stock castings on a 350 (admittedly my heads are better than those out-of-the-box AFR's). I'm not saying he'll be anywhere near that power level, ...BUT, again the cam won't be the part keeping him from it.
Your 1/4 mile numbers considering your power and weight just reinforce the main point I was trying to make -- that the REST of the car setup is what will determine what it runs in the 1/4 mile. This in not a knock on yours, but here's an extreme example: the Impala with the stock 191/195/111 cam ran a best ET of 12.3 @ 107 @ 3800+ lbs. I can guarantee you it was not making 400 hp at the crank! And that was by no means "SuperStock" setup - 4.10 gears, 3400 (Edge) converter, 26" slicks.
Now......if I told you the car setup currently, you could accuse me of being Super Stock

z28yourstang

iTrader: (1)

The cam I'm looking at is a shelf cam that he offers. I'm using it to ballpark the size I want. When it comes time I will be talking to Lloyd and letting him adjust the cam to my specs. I'm running a 3000 edge stall in the car right now because I'm seeing what I can do with full boltons and hsr, but I would assume Andre would spec a stall around 3600 for the future build. This will happen over a period of time just getting my plans laid out. I want this car to be an all around performer that can hold it's own in a straight line.

skinny z

.
Fair enough! Just working the numbers!


That's what I get for drag racing my cross country cruiser (and it's as expected).

skinny z

That's what we give up though when we say "all round performer".
My all round suspension (largely stock with drag bags) limits my quarter mile potential but on the positive side I can knock down 20+ mpg with a carb and drive it anywhere.

bestracing

I built both a 355 and 383 for drag racing. I had to have higher compression and a larger cam in the 355 than the 383 to run the same ET's. Also the 383 was about 0.10 faster to the 60' light than the 355. (1.45 vs. 1.55).

Check your block out like described above and then decide on what you want. A 383 will give you more bang with similar cam/heads/compression than a 355 will and give you that kick in the pants feel every time you take off from a start.

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

That's a very good point for the OP to consider. With the 383's lower rpm powerband, you won't need as many of those "Super Stock" features like steep gearing and high stall TC to run a particular 1/4 mile number. Fits better with his intended 3.23 gearing.

bestracing

I'm currently freshening up a 350 right now. If I had to machine the block and go with new parts I would definitely go with a stroker kit. That combo has been my favorite (factory casting) Gen I SBC build.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

226 on a 110 you'll love it. Just buy good springs and pushrods and really get rocker geometry right.
The 232 is a 383 cam for 6500 rpm

Hyd roller stuff today is pretty advanced and really can make steam. Springs are better, lifters are better and lobes are better

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

^^^ ^^^

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Fyi my hsr 383 was using Lloyds old cam grinder Bret Bauer. It was a 230/245 .603/.613 on a 109. Peaked at 6250 in a ported hsr with afr 195's but held power peak beyond 6600. Shift at 6800-7000 depending on gear