I've been told if the EGR valve is bad that I shouldn't be driving as it could cause damage to the engine. First question, what kind of damage could it cause? Second question, being as I live in a state that does not have emission control...can i just remove all the emission stuff and block it off? There by eliminating the need for the EGR valve? thanks.

KG,

There is not likely any damage that will be caused by a malfunctioning EGR valve, unless it is stuck in the open position. Typical failure mode of an EGR is in the closed position, but it can stick open.

Even though you have no emissions requirements in NV, you may want to have a fully-functional EGR system for better mileage and performance. The EGR system helps keep combustion chamber temperatures lower, so the ignition timing can be advanced father by the ECM for better economy and performance.

What kind of engine / fuel system do you have? What indications of a failed EGR so you have?

Vader,


88 camaro...V8....305
My check engine light comes on about 5 minutes after maintaining 70 mph or more on the highway, so ran the codes and it was a 32 I think....checking the chilton it pointed to the EGR valve.
I live in a small town...and won't be able to get the part till next week since it has to be ordered in. In the meantime, can I drive it?

KG,

You should be able to drive it safely. In the mean time, you should check a few more items.

And just for my complete understanding, is this a TBI engine or TPI engine? The eighth character of the VIN should decode the engine type - an 'F' would indicate a TPI, an 'E' would be the TBI engine. Depending on which you have, there are a few different things to check.

Let us know...

Vader,
Thanks so much for your help this far.
It's a TBI...I guess I should have mentioned that...sorry about it.
What else would you suggest?
thanks
kalee

KG,

Check the vacuum line from the TBI port to the EGR solenoid, and check the line from the solenoid to the EGR valve itself. Any cracks, splits, or burns in the vacuum hoses can kill EGR operation. Also check the electrical connector on the EGR solenoid to make sure it is clean and firmly seated.

You can also operate the EGR valve manually to see if the ports in the intake manifold are plugged. You should be able to reach under the valve and raise the diaphragm with a finger while the engine is idling. Use a little caustion since the base of the valve can get pretty warm.

The engine should stumble, adn probably will kill. This would indicate that the ports are relatively clear. If the engine speed doesn't change, or just barely drops, the ports are likely restricted and need cleaning. In that event, a new EGR valve may not be necessary.

You should also check the vacuum line to the MAP sensor, and make sure the PCV valve is clean and the pintle in the valve moves freely (rattle it to check). Check the vacuum hose to the PCV valve for cracks and splits as well. Any vacuum leak can affect EGR opertaion of the MAP sensor's detection of it opening.

In any case, as long as you are working near the EGR valve, apply a little penetrating oil (like WD-40 or CRC 5-56) to the bolts holding it in place. Whether you change the valve or someone else does, it will make it a lot easier. The sooner you get the penetrant on the bolt, the longer it will have to work. Keep the bolts wet for a couple of days before removing them and you shouldn't have a lot of trouble.

Check into those things and keep us posted.

Vader...

Will check it out tonight and let you know.
thanks

kalee