Theoretical and Street RacingUse this board to ask questions about street racing, discuss your street races, and "who would win?" questions. Keep it safe.
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Crank = Stock GM Forged Steel (3941188), Lightened, Smoothed, Knive Edged, etc for less windage, balanced with the entire rotating assembly
Bearings = Federal Mogul Speed Pro Coated
Rods = X casting rods, Parting lines ground down, Lightened, Balanced, Shot Peened, Weights Matched, ARP Wave Loc 3/8 Rod Bolts, Reconditioned
Pistons = Stock L69 Hypereutetic Replacements, Flattops with 4 valve reliefs, -6 cc, 0.00" in the hole
Rings - Total Seal Gapless rings
Compression = 10.7:1 with 54cc heads, Zero Decked block, .038" compressed head gasket.
Heads - Ported 2004 ZZ4 castings ("463"s), cleaned up in my garage, final "MAX EFFORT" port work performed by my buddy in his machine shop, .100" longer valves than stock (1.94/1.55 Under Cut Stems, Swirl polished), 5 angle valve job, Forget the exact spring but they are meant for the cam and .100" longer than stock valves, .600 lift compatible. I had to use longer than stock push rods as well. Machined heads for Comp Cams guide plates after opening up pushrod holes in heads. Gasket matched to a Felpro 1206 (1.34" x 2.21")
Head flow @ 28 in/h20 with a 3.75" bore simulator (engine has 3.776" bore).
Lift------Intake---Exhaust
.100------57-------57
.200------123------118
.300------177------162
.400------223------183
.500------229------188
.600------238------193
Intake Manifold = Holley Projection TBI for "OLD" style heads with the same bolt angle. This intake is a dual plane, high rise, with 2" bores. Gasket matched to the Felpro 1206 intake gasket
TBI = TBI unit off of a Heavy Duty 7.0 liter TBI truck, 68# injectors at 32 PSI, 2" bores, thinned throttle shafts, radiused the entrance to the bores, sitting on a 1" tall open center TBI spacer, 720 CFM @ 3.00 in/hg
Headers/Exhaust = Hooker Super Comp 1 3/4" x 3.5" meant for a mid 70s Camaro with a 350. 3" duals with X-pipe (not used on dyno)
Ignition = Stock GM HEI EST small cap distributer (computer controlled) with MSD coil, MSD Module, Moroso Ultra 40 wires, AC Delco Rapidfires @ .045"
Oil System = Moroso Blue Printed Oil Pump w/ Pickup, Moroso Steel Shaft, Moroso 5 quart pan, Moroso Oil Control Kit, Mobil 1 5w20, 70 PSI Z/28 spring
Crankcase Evac = LT1 style Electric AIR pump pulling a crankcase vacuum of about 6 in/hg.
ECM = RBob's EBL with lots of tuning. 34* total advance @ 2,800 rpm.
Dyno Numbers (all rounded to the nearest whole number for simplicity)
Well I was talking to my buddy alittle more at school today, and he told me it is an RSX motor, I know every1 is saying TSX but I'm 100% sure he said RSX. and he does have alot of mods on it, he said he had it at the drag strip in english town and he ran a 13.8. He also told me he was pushing 22lbs of boost(...crazy), and he told me that, that is nothing cuz his buddy is running a hatch with 50+pounds . He told me that they go ot englishtown alot and they are all runnign turbo's. By "they" I mean the guys at the shop he hangs out at (performance shop in the bronx). His car is a blue 99 Si by the way.
He should be running 13.8s on just motor,if he is running any type of boost and can only pull high 13's either something isnt tuned right or he really sucks as a driver even on street tires that is a sad number, i wouldnt tell anybody what i ran if had that and only went 13.8 oh and 50 psi is a bunch of crap for a daily driver unless he tunes it down when hes not at the track but even then i would think he would tear up alot of motors like that
I can't completely diss the import market, especially b/c i work for Toyota, but some are definately fast. They offer benefits a 2V pushrod engine can't and vice versa. I have also had my far share of competitions with 4cyl cars that are faster than mine. on the other hand, i beat a # of 'em w/ my 2.8 TBI S10. My boss's Supra runs 11.8 with bolt ons and an automatic (pushing 380-390hp to the wheels). I have alot of respect for some cars. However, the engine are built differently. For example, a honda 4cyl engine has rod/crank bolts about 60% the size of an american V8. therefore unable to hold as much cyl pressure. Not to mention the sleeves in the alum engines are also much thinner. Power can be made w/ immense amounts less of rotating mass but I'd still prefer a torque monster V8. In a real world displacement should = more power all around. assuming wieght and handling are equal. Don't get me wrong, after college I'd love to own a Lexus GS400 w/ a twin turbo kit, but that's only to be a daily driver and have my kmaro run 10's or 11's on the weekend.
I have also had my far share of competitions with 4cyl cars that are faster than mine. on the other hand, i beat a # of 'em w/ my 2.8 TBI S10. .
Now thats an accomplishment, my 2.8 tbi s10 is slow as hell, did keep up to my buddies crx tho that had the usual bolt ons and gutted interior he wasnt very happy, especially after i had sat there all night saying how horribly slow my truck was.
I haven't had a Honda give my any trouble yet with my 383. Do yourself a favor and don't put any nitrous in that motor if its your ride to work, or you might end up with no car and no job.
"I haven't had a Honda give my any trouble yet with my 383. Do yourself a favor and don't put any nitrous in that motor if its your ride to work, or you might end up with no car and no job."
It's this kind of ignorance that keeps the people with nitrous winning the races.
Now I'll give my own take on the situation, Don't put nitrous on your ride without putting the supporting mods on to keep everything safe.
whether you have nitrous or not some hondas will still beat you, i go to the philly street races weekly (i know i'm going to be bashed for that) and there are all kinds of honda's there running low 11's and mid to high 10's, it pisses me off but i haven't seen an f-body beat these things yet.
I've seen fast Honda's but I live in Southern Indiana, and there's no touching the domestic scene. I give props to the guy who's car sounds like a 12 gauge going off every time he shifts his Honda, but really he's just doing what I am; pushing the limits. I'll put it this way, for every 10 second import I see at Edgewater there are 4 10 second or faster domestics. To top that off most of the fast Honda's are supremely built up, we're talking no interior built up but props to them for doing what they do well. As for the comment on nitrous not making your car win every race against a Honda, that wasn't the point. Nitrous has been recognized for a long time now as a safe power adder if you do it properly. I personally feel it's a better power adder than anything else because it's not there all the time. Personal feelings aside, it will instantly make a slow car moderate, and a moderate car fast. It's quite simply put the best deal going.
"I haven't had a Honda give my any trouble yet with my 383. Do yourself a favor and don't put any nitrous in that motor if its your ride to work, or you might end up with no car and no job."
It's this kind of ignorance that keeps the people with nitrous winning the races.
Now I'll give my own take on the situation, Don't put nitrous on your ride without putting the supporting mods on to keep everything safe.
it's not preaching ignorance if the guy doesn't know what he is doing and can't tune it right.
it's not as easy as just throwing fuel and nitrous and use some duct tape saying it will work. so in that I would even say if your new to nitrous don't put it on your main car
"if your new to nitrous don't put it on your main car"
Fair enough, I'de say that's absolutly true and counter with; "Do your reasearch before you put the kit on your car, there are several books on nitrous and 20 dollars now could save you hundreds down the road. Also don't be afraid to call the nitrous kit manufacturers they don't mind giving you pointers and helping you out".
"if your new to nitrous don't put it on your main car"
Fair enough, I'de say that's absolutly true and counter with; "Do your reasearch before you put the kit on your car, there are several books on nitrous and 20 dollars now could save you hundreds down the road. Also don't be afraid to call the nitrous kit manufacturers they don't mind giving you pointers and helping you out".
hundreds that it?? i've seen a guy blow off the front end of his corvette..
EDIT: picture
__________________
1984 Trans Am
385sbc(RIP)/t-5/4.30-9"
1.69-7.44-11.65 @ 116
next up-->383 with mild upgrades
You can run fast in High School on a budget. My car was running 13.0s in High School, and my other friend had a 423 rwhp (on a Mustang dyno, probably 450 on a dynojet) 88 5.0 Mustang. With the right platform and saving money by buying cheap, you can build a fast car even on a low budget. Im in college now which is harder to make money during (schedule always changes, more work, and not as easy to come and go) and still manage with making the car better (although not faster yet).
Hey havnt reply'd in a while because ive been busy and stuff but i finaly got some one to beat this kid in the civic. One of my budy's got his hands on a 97 trans am with the lt1 350. It's stock but the thing screws pretty good we raced him same thing as i did 40 mph role on the highway we won by close to a car length its not that much much but its winning. I got to give credit to that honda tho. Idk about the summer time tho hez getting a turbo so we'll b screwed again but the kid with the trans am is getting a 01 cobra so idk.
. He told me that they go ot englishtown alot and they are all runnign turbo's. By "they" I mean the guys at the shop he hangs out at (performance shop in the bronx). His car is a blue 99 Si by the way.
he wasnt very happy, especially after i had sat there all night saying how horribly slow my truck was. ![R4][N_M4l{3R's Avatar](http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/customavatars/avatar47086_4.gif){kind=avatar}
