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There is a kid with a 302 5.0 5speed mustang (Not sure of the year) and he wants to race me. 305 5.0 5speed formula. Mine is all stock except for 2 mangnaflow high flow cats and a flowmaster super 40 muffler. I am not sure what he has done to his mustang but i am pretty sure he has a flowmaster catback. My clutch is almost gone and i need new rear tires. Will this race be won who is the better driver? Let me hear your opionins.
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If the stang is an LX 5 speed, you will have your hands full. They are a little lighter and with just a set of gears, it will stomp our 5 liters in stock form.
Our 5 liters are better suited to pickup trucks with the small bore and relatively longer stroke than the ford has. He has a 4 inch bore (like our chevy 302, 327, and 350 engines) and a short 3 inch stroke (like our old chevy 302 from the 60's) that allows him to rev up and hit his power band faster than our 305 can. With his bigger pistons, he is able to run much better heads with bigger valves and ports and our 305s are limited.
In the 80's those 5 liter mustangs were on par with our 350 cars. We could probably compete if we had the better cam specs and air flow that they had along with a 4 inch bore engine. If someone actually built a mild TPI 302 chevy 5 speed car you could probably even up with him.
I'm not just laying out stats; I had an 87 formula in NorCal with a TPI 305 and a 5 speed. I did a little exhaust work and a chip and I still lost by a fender to most 87-93 5 liter mustangs.
The GTs were actually slowed down by the ground effects and I could usually get them if I got the jump on them at the start.
good luck!!
__________________ "Towering genius disdains a beaten path. It seeks regions hitherto unexplored."
--Abraham Lincoln
Been there done that many many times before. When my car was only a 305 TPI I used to get spanked on a daily basis by my friend who had a Mustang GT 5.0.. They are lighter, They have a shorter shift throw and previous sticky says alot more about bore and stroke. There is one good thing you could do, Challenge him to a road race on a windy road. You will run circles around him because of his wheelbase.
__________________ (ENGINE) 355 SBC - TPIS MiniRam - AFR 210 75cc Full CNC - BBK 58mm TB - JE Forged Pistons - Scat H-Rods - Eagle 4340 Crank - Crower 00482LM Cam - Vortech S/C @ 18LB - 10k RPM Nitrous Kit (TRANSMISSION) Vigilante 2600 Stall Convertor - 700R4 Rebuild Kit Pro Street Elite by Pro Built PN# PSERK70088 (SUSPENSION) Full Hotchkis Subframes - Bay Braces - Torque Rods & Trailing Arms and More!! (INTERIOR) Cyberdyne Digital Dash - Pioneer MP3 / DVD Player - (2) 1500+ Watts Rockford AMPS More Forged than plastic - Way 2 Much 2 List.. Some Say I am
if the stang is bone stock, with just exhaust.. i might be close. what condition is the mustang in? miles? stock gears? i could be an out of tune p.o.s. but then again youre mainly stock youreself.. it could be close.. do all the free mods u can, throw in a set of gears. and practice launching.. should be a good race.
if the stang is bone stock, with just exhaust.. i might be close. what condition is the mustang in? miles? stock gears? i could be an out of tune p.o.s. but then again youre mainly stock youreself.. it could be close.. do all the free mods u can, throw in a set of gears. and practice launching.. should be a good race.
It COULD be a rat trapPOS, but COULD be the fastest stock motored 5.0 in the country, therefore go into the race thinking it is average or even faster (makes you better prepared) than average, and expect that. Never go into a race expecting the car to be slow... quick way to get beat and feel bad about it.
Many Many years ago when the Grand National came out, I had the cocky attitude that it was only a six cylinder 3.8 SFI and I could beat it with a 305TPI.. HMMMM! well you can image the rest... I came, I saw, I went home a Loser.
__________________ (ENGINE) 355 SBC - TPIS MiniRam - AFR 210 75cc Full CNC - BBK 58mm TB - JE Forged Pistons - Scat H-Rods - Eagle 4340 Crank - Crower 00482LM Cam - Vortech S/C @ 18LB - 10k RPM Nitrous Kit (TRANSMISSION) Vigilante 2600 Stall Convertor - 700R4 Rebuild Kit Pro Street Elite by Pro Built PN# PSERK70088 (SUSPENSION) Full Hotchkis Subframes - Bay Braces - Torque Rods & Trailing Arms and More!! (INTERIOR) Cyberdyne Digital Dash - Pioneer MP3 / DVD Player - (2) 1500+ Watts Rockford AMPS More Forged than plastic - Way 2 Much 2 List.. Some Say I am
The shittiest of Mustang 302's is fast with a proper tune up and gears (we proved this with a slap together peice of **** that went 13.7's at 100). I have however been in a bone stock 88 GT (girl own dealership serviced) mustangs that ran fine but was so Fing slow it was insane. I wouldn't bank on him being slow and you said it yourself with a bad clutch and bald tires there's absolutly no way you're winning this one. Fix those 2 issues, do some free mods to your car and hope he hasn't done the free mods to his.
The bore stroke ratio is an urban myth. You can have two engines with the same displacement with differnt bore stroke combos and have the peak and average powers be identical. The longer stroke engines will just make its power sooner in the RPM band. The 302 is a better stock set-up than the 305 because it suffers less from being under-valved. The larger bore unshrouds the valves better (just like the SBC 350 does). It has nothing to do with that magical 4" number. Only that the stock GM and Ford head designs were optimal for a larger bore. There are very few 4" bore motors and in fact many motors today have less cylinders, and lower bore stroke ratio than a 305 and make far more power (stock for stock).
The bore stroke ratio is an urban myth. You can have two engines with the same displacement with differnt bore stroke combos and have the peak and average powers be identical. The longer stroke engines will just make its power sooner in the RPM band. The 302 is a better stock set-up than the 305 because it suffers less from being under-valved. The larger bore unshrouds the valves better (just like the SBC 350 does). It has nothing to do with that magical 4" number. Only that the stock GM and Ford head designs were optimal for a larger bore. There are very few 4" bore motors and in fact many motors today have less cylinders, and lower bore stroke ratio than a 305 and make far more power (stock for stock).
If you think bore/stroke matters all that much, go drive a Nissan Titan or Armada. They have a 3.8" bore, displace 5.6 liters and make 320 NET HP with 379 ft/lbs of torque. They also rev smooth as silk up to their 6,300 rpm redline. We had one torn apart at the Nissan dealership I work for after it puked a head gasket at 150,000 miles. The bore is tiny, yet the truck runs very strong.
I am also going to go with the mustang. I took on a v6 2005 mustang last night and it gave my 87 Camaro with a 350 TPI (all stock at the moment) a good run. I won it by about a car length and I got that lead in the first twenty feet and had just enough power to hold it but did lose some when we hit third gear. My Camaro definitely had more power off the starting line.
I would say you may get out in front at the start, but I doubt you will hold the lead. The 330 foot pounds of torque is pretty good, but the measly 225 HP you get from a stock Camaro 350 is pitiful.
You'd need to be a G92 optioned 305 to even run in the ballpark, and even at that the lighter Ford is gonna be pretty tough to beat. An L98 vs. a 5.0 stang is a decent race, but the stang is still likely to be quicker, the Camaro better pray for a good holeshot, because the Ford is quicker up top, and can leave very well when driven right.
You'd need to be a G92 optioned 305 to even run in the ballpark
I do have the G92 optioned 305. I need a clutch soon and I'm hoping to get get it replaced soon. Sometimes I have to double clutch it to get it into 1st.
there's a bunch of formy 5 speed lb9's running mid to low 14's even one going 13's.. i think it will be a good race.. if the stang is well described it will only be a 14 sec car too.. so let us know what happens.
__________________
89 T/A LB9, WS6, TPI, 42K ORIGINAL MILES, CRANE 2032 CAM W 1.6RR'S, PROCHARGER P-1SC 10LB'S, SLP RUNNERS + PORTED PLENUM, 24# MOTORSPORT INJECTORS, FB BUILT 700R4 W 2200 STALL, EATON 373 POSI, EDELBROCK SHORTIES, BORLA CAT BACK, ALL UMI SUSPENSION. TOO MUCH MORE TOO LIST.
If you think bore/stroke matters all that much, go drive a Nissan Titan or Armada. They have a 3.8" bore, displace 5.6 liters and make 320 NET HP with 379 ft/lbs of torque. They also rev smooth as silk up to their 6,300 rpm redline. We had one torn apart at the Nissan dealership I work for after it puked a head gasket at 150,000 miles. The bore is tiny, yet the truck runs very strong.
Don't forget that 4V motors have WAY more valve curtain area than 2V motors. Look at the Ford Triton motors, they're ~3.5 inch bore and make decent power N/A in 4V format, even though they do OK in a 2V format too.
That being said, I think that the Stang will get you, fix the clutch do some free mods heck do some not so free mods and get some tires. Not hard Mastercrafts you normally put on, find something that is soft.
