A friend of mine owns a garage and ordered an ECM for me to try. Told me if it worked, cool, pay me and problem is fixed, if it doesn't bring it back and he'd send it back... But at least i could rule out the ECM as being my problem. So i brought it home, put the chip in it.....turned the key on and same deal SES light flashes once and goes out . Try to fire the car up and no injector pulse. My guess is a bad ground somewhere or a short maybe. What should i try next to fix my problem???? I know there where 5 ground wires off the ECM and i know i grounded all 5, even took them off and cleaned them up real good and got the same results. Is there something i am missing ?? how do i test for a bad ground anyways,since a ground won't be pulling any voltage.. This is Pi$$ING me off..... I have a car with a brand new paint job, a 350 crate motor that's almost 4 years old and has only 6000 miles on it and all i can do is uncover it and look at and shake my head....Should i just maybe buy a new harness from painless??? Any suggestions ?? It would really help me out since i can't think clearly anymore. And just to add a little more.... I checked both sides with a noid light and nothing, I am getting spark and fuel, the whole time i was trying to crank the engine over it had about 40 lbs of fuel pressure while cranking, it would stay running aslond as i kept spraying carberator fluid in it and it was running half decent 3 weeks ago till i let it set. And i have a stock chip with the VATS deleted out of it.

Sorry,, I have to ask, did you check the injector fuses "INJ" in the fuse box to make sure they're OK?

Why did you delete the VATS? What is your application? What engine do you have?

First, check all of your fuses.

For grounds, you'd have to disconnect the ECM and probe the connector at the ground wires (there are several on each connector- basically all of the black wires) with a digital ohmmeter. Put one probe the connector terminal and the other probe to the (-) battery terminal. You should see no more than 2 ohms.

All fuses checked out okay..... I bought a chip with the vats deleted in it and it ran half decent for a week or two before it started doing this. The engine is a 350 crate motor and when i looked up the engines part # it came up 350 TPI .

THE NIGHTMARE IS OVER:lala: :lala: :lala: :lala: :lala:. I called painless to inquire about thier harness and the tech asked me what the car was doing. So i told him it seemed the idle was hung up when it was running(1600 rpm's) and i couldn't set the timing ,no pulse to the injectors and the SES light would blink once and go out. Right away he told me sounds like the computer chip was no good, which i didn't believe because i bought it brand new from Fuel Injection Specialists out of Texas . So out of curiousity i tried the old chip .... And what do you know ...The SES light stays on solid like it is supposed to. Of course since someone told me i had get the resistor pellet for the computer out of the TPI set up and i punched all my pellets out, i can't try and start the car. I hope F.I.S. will refund my money or fix the problem ,but i bought it like 6 months ago and don't have the reciept anymore,but i did purchase it with my credit card. Now i am pi$$ed !!!! I spent $150 for a brand new chip that is junk, spent countless hours testing wires , pulling my hair out for nothing. I called them thursday but they never called me back. Gonna call them tomorrow. What a waste of time

Just so you don't feel so bad. My boss and I swapped a 350 TPI into a friend of his' 68 Chevy pickup a few years ago. The owner of the truck bought a wiring harness and computer and basically everything other than the hard parts, engine, trans, cooling, that stuff, for Fuel Injection Specialties...

Anyway, about 8 months ago he started having a problem with the SES light working intermittenly. At first he had no drivability problems and then wierd things started to happen...Nothing major but he was getting annoyed. After doing about everything in the book, I went to my car, 92 Z28 but I bet you guessed at that , and pulled my chip. His truck started up perfectly and everything worked fine...

I burned him a chip and he found a little better mileage and a bit more throttle response...I still have to do more work on it, but for a guess I did okay I think...I tried to put that chip(FIS) into the editor to see what was on it and it was strange, pieces of it were not complete or just had wild readings...I don't know what happened to it, but it just went south...

I don't know if you care but I figured I would share my experience with FIS's chip with you...

Yea that's cool, glad to hear i am not the only one, not to mention the more information people get on this web site the more easier it can make things. I did countless searches on th SES light on here and found nothing like my problem, maybe someday my problem will help someone else out in the future. Thanks for the post 92.

No problem...

Everyones collective data and experiences are always helpful, no matter how complicated or simple.

If only we were all born with infinite knowlege...

If either of you still have the MEMCAL from fis check the EPROM pins 14 & 28 and see if either is cut. These are the power and ground pins.

Many aftermarket chip companies will cut one of the two pins to prevent reading it in an EPROM reader/burner. Of course, this can also lead to weird problems in the ECM too.

RBob.

I talked to Vince today at F.I.S. and he told me the problem might be that i only have my timing set a 3 degrees and it should be at like 8...Not sure about that one ...Anyway i told him that didn't explain why i had no pulse to the injectors and it seemed kinda strange that with the stock chip the SES light does what it supposed to and with the chip he burnt for me the light doesn't function properly. So he told me to send the chip back and he'd take a look at it for me, so at least they're gonna make good on thier stuff.......By the way...........who is Ed Wright and how do i get ahold of him if i need to get another chip burnt??

No, all I have is the chip itself...Since I put in a modified tune of my stock chip to work with his truck, he has no problems and tells me he gets a little better mileage and it has better acceleration...After I get a WB O2 sensor I am going to be doing some more extensive tuning for him...I think the problem was the in the chip itself...

Turns out it wasn't a bad ground or a short.......It is the chip... Unfortunatly i punched both chips out of my key blank so i couldn't try to start the car...Since i do locksmith work i remembered i have a vats interrogator. So i put my TPS back on and adjusted the voltage, put the old chip back in the ECM, plugged in the interrogator ,put it on my value and what do you know..........The car fired right up and sounds perfect :lala: ...I took it on a short test drive and it ran fine....No SES light came on while it i was driving it...Perfect:lala: Which i was suprised i figured the SES light would come on since the chip came out of an automatic car and mine is a 5 speed, i thought the SES light would come on because the computer would be searching for the torque converter. Anyways the shift light works fine...All i have to do is figure out how to wire up the fan coolent temp switch:lala: For now i just kept the A/C running so the fan stayed on.....Someone said you can use chip from an automatic in a manual but not visa versa but they said the car would idle rough but mine sounds smooth:lala: Anyone who has tried to help me over the last few months i want to thank you all :hail:

You can use a chip for a manual with an automatic...I am...The engine would do some strange things at first but I was able to smooth them out...Actually I am using a TH350

i know this kinda off subject but what kickdown cable are you using with th350?

I took it off the donor car i got the tuned port from..Whatever a 350 IROC used back in '89 was.