well my computer is working again (finally) i was reading over the thread and someone said the part #'s where wrong, i went and looked @ my car i had 'em backwards, sorry guys. also i found out yesterday that the relay #'s r different on 86-87 and 88-89 but couldnt post it i see that tabill's car is ok now(kick a**) also like bill said too many grounds is never a bad thing, there IS actually a ground directly to the body on the black and white wire (ckt 450) my repair is just reinforcing this ground and tieing it in with the other ground on the circuit. 4 the guy with the code 36, make sure your relays r correct and in working order and all connections r ok if everything checks out look 4 plugged pcv condition per gm tech service bulletin 87-6g-31. 33 34 36 MAF :hail: u will never take our third gens

Thanks Mike, For all your help on this topic and for going out of your way and calling me to discuss this.

Thanks Buddy, You Rock:hail:

no prob bud, just want to see more birds flyin down the highway
:rockon:

maros too

I'm not sure my problems totally went away.I just said F it and replaced all my relays and so far so good. I've only driven the car around 50 miles and no problems yet,so I'll have to see what happens. Thanks Again.

just keep driving it (thats what they r 4) and if anything pops up again, which im almost certain we licked it, we will get her fixed
TPI forever

Mike,

I replaced all three relais on the firewall, cleaned all conections I could find, still my code 36 (mass air burn off function) is intermittend, some times the relais clikces twice with about one second time in between, so that's good, but the next time it clickes twice very fast or not at all, showing ses light and code 36.
It is doing this for at least 8 years now, so I'm used to it, but wouldn't mind a cure of course!

having problem posting

ok first things first get that k&n off of there the oil from the filter is building up on your hot wire(sensing wire) and that is why your relay is clicking twice it should only click 1 time. the k&n oil is built up so much that the burn off circuit is running twice. the burnoff circuit is basically the clean up crew for the maf sensor. i know u dont want to take it off but that is the root of your prob. if you havent destroyed your hotwire then after a few weeks it will have burned off all of the gunk and you wont get a code 36 anymore. gm does not warrantty cars with k&ns because of this reason

k&n :nono:

The ECM doesn't know or care what kind of filter you have on your car. The circuit is energized on shutdown for a predetermined amount of time. It has no way of telling if there is any crud left on there after the burnoff function.
I have had a K&N filter on my MAF car for over 15 years and never had a single problem.
His problem is either electrical (relay can't/won't hold in the energized position) or there is a problem with the ECM (interrupting the burnoff cycle and restarting it).

Well, I have a new paper filter in store, so I will give it a try anyway, and see what happens...

Damn,8 years and I thought I was a little agravated after almost 7 months. I hope swapping out the K&N fix's it,and if it does,what are we suppose to do about getting away from a lousey paper filter,Foam?

Not saying this is the problem but it is a possiability

I was thinking about the k&N remark, and I do agree that the oil can be a problem, especialy if the fileter was reoiled. When I used to race quads I have seen many people put too much filter oil on them and choke them or they would just suck the filter oil into the carb. We use the Filter Wraps Sorta like panty hose over a Filter. The Filter wrap would collect all the super small particles plust the oil and then Just change the Filter wrap. Eventually after a while the excess oil was gone. Maybe this would could be tried.

Just my .02

d.b. also try running a non-gutted maf 2 test after u get yur filter like tabill was sayin this could be part of your prob. a filter wrap would probobly work if it was installed @the same time as the filter but in your case i would definitally wait on that till we get this issue resolved. also have u checked 4 pluged up positive crankcase vetilation? i dont know how but about ten years ago my niebor had a 89 iroc w/ a code 36 and i pulled up the tsb and it said check 4 a plugged pcv, so we did, and sure enough it was plugged up, we got er cleaned out reset the codes, 36 went away but about a month later a old man in a ford duallie t-boned him and now the motor sits on his garage floor awiting the completion of a 40 chevp pu. Oh and also i forgot to put this in my original post.
---when i tested my grouds @the connector that goes into the maf my test light would light up so i thought my ground where ok but i read somewhere in the third gen archives that add a grounds repair i figured i would try it and if it didnt work sell my maf setup and go speed density(map) im glad i tryed it cause i would rather run maf.---

It rattles when I shake it, so I gues it's not blocked, but I will spray some carb cleaner in it, just to be sure, and besides that, I have a new pcv in store as well......
I have no possebility to try a non gutted maf, cause these kind of cars are very rare overhere, so I'm on my own to deal with problems!!
(and this board of course!!)

Bill -- I have had similar problems with 33 -34 and I belive that your problem lies with the TPS. Replace it and set the voltage correctly (min idle procedure on this site) and I think your problems are solved.

When the computer gets a bad throtle position reading it doesnt show up that way with the computer -- it usually makes the computer think that the MAF signal is way off and hence the 33 and 34 codes.

I haven't got to drive my car lately,been raining for 5 days now.
Anyway when I get to drive it and get some more miles on it,if the problem comes back I'll replace it.Mite as well, I've replaced about every other damn relay on this car.
Thanks for the info.