TPITuned Port Injection discussion and questions. LB9 and L98 tech, porting, tuning, and bolt-on aftermarket products.
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I've done a lot of research on the Stealthram, but for the first time yesterday I saw something about the it not properly fitting 87+ heads? Like I saw a post where Doug Flynn said that yes, it was now drilled to fit the bolt pattern, but that something was needed to fix the angle or something? This may have come up before, but there's like 7 pages of Stealthram search results, and most of the topic questions are not specific...its a lot to go through....so has this problem been fixed by now, or am I missing something? I'm sorry if I should have seen the answer somewhere, but I'm really just getting lost in all the results.
I really need to know because I already ordered it and was expecting to slap it right on (figuratively). What's the deal? Thanks.
I thought it came with the angled spacers to fit, not positive though. It's really not a big deal, basically just a 4 angled spacers since the angle on the 2 center intake bolts on each side changed in 87. You could probably make 'em yourself if you had to.
__________________ Back in business, working on the Formula again. 409 Stealthram, 58mm tb, Ported systemax 2 heads, custom cam, 32lb injectors, 2 stage NX kit 250 total shot. Torque arm, control arms, lca's, panhard bar, headers, exhaust, etc etc.
Expanded 6E tunerpro Definition file available at
[http://home.comcast.net/~rhuarc1/pwp...6Eexpanded.xdf
Was, rhuarc30, moved to Il, L98 iron head part 4 finally up. Check it out on the TPI board. http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/show...hreadid=183264
Originally posted by Ricktpi The newest production of the HSR will fit both post & pre 87 heads, according to Doug Flynn.
Yeah that's what I read he said, but then he followed it up with "but you'll need [something] to fix the angle...". I saw a post in the Product Review forum where a guy couldnt get it to work with some "shims" or whatever, so I'm starting to get worried.
You'll either need some angle cut washers, or to grind a new 'seat' for the bolt at teh right angle on the intake. Same as you would for any other intake, which is probably why the info doesn't specifically appear in any HSR threads.
The later HSR are "machined" to allow the bolt to pass through to the 87 up heads. The HSR doesn't come with the spacers needed to level off the bolt head. If you ask Holley about this,, they'll recommend their intake "spacer kit", part number 90748, but it's like $55 !!!!
www.mcmaster.com sells "square beveled washers" (do a search on their site "square beveled washers) that can be used as a spacer. Their part number 92810A120 is for a 5 pack of aluminum washers/spacers for $2.50 plus shipping (they have stainless also). These have a 3/8 diameter hole and should work for you. You might have to "drill out" the hole a little, but the next size up is probably too wide to sit two together for the holes to line up. I haven't used these myself, but this is what I'd order. You may need longer than stock "87" bolts for proper thread engagement with them,,, I'm not sure so you'll need to check that.
Basically what I'm getting from this, is that when you install the bolt(s), it doesnt go down flush on the HSR base, correct? So all I'd have to do is take a dremel and make it flush? Is there enough material on the base to level it off for the bolt head? Thanks.
Originally posted by jamesbob02 Ok let me get this straight....
Basically what I'm getting from this, is that when you install the bolt(s), it doesnt go down flush on the HSR base, correct? So all I'd have to do is take a dremel and make it flush? Is there enough material on the base to level it off for the bolt head? Thanks.
No, you use a beveled washer instead, no grinding.
Originally posted by Ricktpi No, you use a beveled washer instead, no grinding.
I meant if I didn't use the washers.
Also, you said use the 3/8 ones, and listed part # (ending) 120, but those are 5/16 ones. The 3/8 ones is a # ending in 130. Which one do I need? Thanks. (I know lots of questions!)
Originally posted by jamesbob02 I meant if I didn't use the washers.
Also, you said use the 3/8 ones, and listed part # (ending) 120, but those are 5/16 ones. The 3/8 ones is a # ending in 130. Which one do I need? Thanks. (I know lots of questions!)
The intake uses 3/8" bolts. The 5/16 "screw size" (ending in 120) has a 3/8" hole (.375") and they're 7/8" square. The 3/8 "screw size" has a 7/16 hole and are 1.25" square. I'm not sure how the larger washer would look, although now that I think about it,,, there's plenty of room between the bolt holes - will it over lap the top of the intake,,, maybe not,,, I'm not sure. Unless someone has run these before and can tell you for sure the ones to get,,, I'd either get both of them (120s and 130s),, or just get the smaller ones and ream the hole if it was needed.
click the green banner and you'll see what the square beveled washers look like. when getting them, there needs to be a 1/4" thickness difference from the thinnest to the thickest side. kinda ugly, but they do the trick.
I should have thought to ask you! What manufacturer and part number are those? Can you get them in a metal finish type color? Did it require new bolts or were the ones that came with the HSR long enough? Thanks.
wll i didn't know the HSR came with bolts. last i remember it didn't. i got them from a local place called web nut and bolt. they only look like that. the link above to mcmaster is where you can get them online. but if you are in a pinch, i can get you some.
No its ok, I'll just order those listed before. I guess I just assumed the HSR came with the bolts. Since it doesnt, what did you use to make it work with the washers? Size, thread number, and length? Thanks.
it is very important that the angled spacers are the correct angle. I bought some beveled washers from a local store and they worked perfect and did the job but I removed my HSR for an engine rebuild and the bolt that where used in those washers where bent after I removed them.
yeah - it's a bit hard to start when cold. Do a search on the topic and you'll get some good informational threads about the proper way to disable it. I know it involves some chip tuning.