Just like the name implies, i was wondering which one i should go with. I like the single pattern LPE cam (i will be running a super ram and afr 195 heads on a 350), but the xr276hr-10 has more duration. The LPE cam has more aggressive ramps. And also would i have to get a 112* lsa for the xr276 cam? I would like this car to be pretty streetable and pass smog. Or anyone have any suggestions on a custom grind ? Thanks, Marco

I have done a lot of research on this one.

1) What type of intake are you going to be using? (SuperRam, Mini-Ram, Stock(ported), LT1, etc)

Basically you will make a couple more HP with the 276, but lose a couple ft/lbs of torque. The 219/219 will be just the opposite.

2) Which emissions are you going to try and pass? (Cali, visual, texas, etc)

The 276 cam is listed to not pass emissions. The 219/219 is claimed that it will, I have seen them both pass and fail, but the 219 is more likely to make it since the idle is not rough.

3) What type of idle do you want? (rough, sleeper, stock)

The 276 with the 110 lobe seperation will be rough as hell. Traffic would be hard to roll through, but the car will sound extremely mean though. The 219 is going to be the sleeper, with some quiet exhaust, most people wouldn't be able to tell till you open it up.

4) What stall, if auto, and gears are you running?

The 276 wants a higher stall for it. It gets greedy about 2500 rpm, so you will need to find something with a pretty thick stall. The 219 still needs higher than stock, but something like a 2000 will work.

A custom grind might be best, but these cams are awesome for our cars it kind of makes spending the extra cash not quite worth it. The 219 is pretty expensive as is, but the 276 is a good price for the power.

Go with the 219. I've passed smog with it, and it gives good vacuum and low-speed driveability. They are also on sale from LPE for $250. If not that one, then I'd pick the hot cam over the comp.

The one on sale for $250 is the 74219LP. Whats the difference between that one and the 74219, the one for $315?

I was looking at a custom grind from comp. do u think a 224*/224* with .567/.567@ .05 with 112 lsa is too much? Its a bit smaller in duration than the zz409 cam with much greater lift.

Not sure about the difference with the LP vs not on the 219 cam.

Definitely go with the 219 cam...it is such a proven combo with the SR, that I was stuck with that intake for emissions reasons, I would choose that setup.

Good luck!

What size motor, the more cubes the more cam.

As my original post said, a 350.

74219 is the part number for the 219/219 camshaft. Lingenfelter usually lists the intake duration @ .050" in the camshaft #. So that ebay camshaft for $250 is the 219/219 camshaft if the number is 74219.

The camshaft I bought is 74211. It has 211/219 duration @ .050", .500"/.525" lift (w/1.5r) and a 112* lobe seperation.

Those cams are usually directly from Lingenfelter, so I wouldn't hesitate to buy one. Actually, i didn't, I did buy one.

From all the dyno charts I have seen the XR276HR peaks later and holds power longer, however it is not extreme it still is fact. it will let your ring your Superram up to 5800rpm for max power, which is real nice.

My car traps at 113.5mph with the XR276HR-12 and David 91RS/Z28 traps 114mph with the XR276HR-10, both SR cars.

The guys with stong running 219 cars mph in the same range.

I wouldnt even consider the Hotcam.

Nah, the hotcam is weak.
Hey ominous, u seem to know your shiznit,what do u think about that custom cam i mentioned? 224*/224* duration, special xtreme energy high lift lobe with .567" lift WITH A 1.5 ROCKER!! and 112*lsa. That is some crazy ramps!! Thats the same as the LPE cam w/ 1.6 rockers.
My question is, does it make a difference in driveability whether u get the same lift with a 1.5 rocker as a 1.6 rocker ( because the lobe lift is so much greater witht the custom comp cam than with LPE cam)? How do u think this cam would perform?

Thats sounds wicked my friend. The only thing I would reccomend above that would be a solid roller.

Of all the options you have to look at in this thread your custom would be my first choice if I had to do it over again, however one of these days I will get around to stuffing a solid roller in my motor.

Here is a solid roller we are stuffing into my buddys HSR 383, it just shames hydra roller cams.

Also if you stick that nasty Comp Custom in you better dump the AFR valve springs and outfit those heads with at least a Comp 987 spring if not a Comp 977 spring depending on Comps recomendation.

I'm still concerned with the inspection most of all. Will the 219/219 pass Cali emissions?

Believe me, the AFR springs would be the first things I would dump.

Why a solid roller as opposed to a hydraulic roller?

The Comp 977 springs are solid roller springs, and would destroy a hydraulic lifter. The seat pressure at 1.850" is over 160#, and at 1.250" is about 420#. Those are the springs I installed for my XR280R solid roller. The 987 springs should work for him, and in fact I have a set with about 5,000 miles on them if anyone is interested. They were used with an XR294HR.

The 977 springs are a damn tuff spring and about the max you could run on a radical hydra roller setup.

They may be the recomended spring for the the XE solid rollers however there are more than a few hydra roller setups running around with exactly that spring setup.

The 977 springs are not recommended for ANY hydraulic lifter cam because hydraulic cannot handle the pressure of those springs. the max pressure a hydraulic lifter can handle is 350#. The 977 springs are at 350# at about .200" lift. The comp 987 springs are the recommended spring for the XR294 and larger hydraulic roller cams. That is 294 300 and 580+ lift. That is the cam I replaced with my solid roller. Even the 987 springs were very hard on the hydraulic rollers, and they were Comps hydraulic rollers, and the 977 would have bottomed the plungers immediately.

gixxer9

I know you have had terrible experiences with hydra roller stuff all together. I actually will never run a hydra roller again myself. I dont believe it to be worth the agrivation either once you get a little radical.

However there are a quite a few hydra roller LT1 cars running the 977s and I have even seen them run on some hydra rollers in CHP. That solid roller I posted a pic of is a Crane Cam that we are going to run with 977s. We actually first bought a full hydra roller retrofit setup with a CC Extreme 242/248. At the point CC tech help actually recomended to run the 977s at 1.900". So we bought the 242/248 cam, retrofit hydra roller lifters, 977 springs, and TI retainers.

We never actually ran it but reurned the cam and lifters after reading of the mess you found yourself in and opted to run the solid roller insted after further research.

Whats wrong with a hydraulic roller cam once u get radical?

Valve float, running outside of what most consider to be reasonable spring pressure for a non-race only vehicle, etc...

Once you get towards that fine line it is worth putting that headache in a box and just going solid roller, plus a solid roller will give a fatter curve, better idle, and higher peaks. Plus the solid roller sounds real cool, all race.

Umm.. Ok, if all those are true, why run a hydraulic roller then?

Cheaper than a solid roller...

Because a hydraulic roller is less maintenance than a solid roller in general. Hydraulic lifters are set to zero lash + ~1/2 turn, and then left alone for extended periods of time. They are also quieter than a solid lifter which makes a faint ticking sound due to the valve lash. Solid lifters must have the rockers adjusted on a regular basis. This is not desireable for the average person. Now having said all of that, I have had nothing but problems with aggressive hydraulic rollers, so I have now converted to solid roller. It takes me about 30 minutes total to do a valve adjustment from taking the valve covers off, to putting them back on.

Gixxer:

I see you are using the zz4 shortblock, which i am planning on using. What is invloved to converting a hydraulic roller block such as the zz4 to one for a solid roller cam.

I passed CA emissions on a '91 Formula with trick flows, ASM siamesed runners, LPE 219 cam, and SLP 1 3/4" headers with AIR.

Wish I still had that car

id like to know the same thing?

No conversion needed. I just ordered a solid roller from Comp with the stepped nose. For lifters, you just need to purchase the .300" longer bodied ones to clear the taller bores. Crane makes a few versions of solid rollers for our blocks.