...was wondering if i could get some help on them. if i really need what they are. also will i need them??? i don't really want to buy stuff that won't do much but help me pass inspection. doubt this thing will anyway the last 4 pics on page 6 of my site. thanks also, i looked at them just last night and got most of the wires, but can anybody tell me where the wires go for that 15 pin connecter and the grey one? there the pictures right above the 4 i was just talking about. pretty sure the 15 pin goes to the dash harness and then to crap like SES and speedo and ALDL n crap. and then the grey connector goes to the fuse box.

I'm pretty sure the grey one goes to the Neutral safety switch.
Careful removing the one that says "So is this". This is the I/P (instrument panel connector) This brings a series of wires from the fuse block and column to the ECM and other spots.
Power for your ECM is the Pink wire in there.
I traced mine out completly using a schematic for my car before I removed anything from that connector.
(Mine was a Monte so the pinout wouldn't help you much)
The purple wire is from the brake switch to release the TCC.
The orange wire is the Battery power to the ECM.
You'll need to consult a full schematic to get this handled, There's just no other way.
Then after you've identified whats needed, scrap the rest. (and hope you really didn't need it)
Good luck!

yea well like i said, i found out what alot of them are. and also know that USALLY! orange wires are power and black with a white strip are ground with a purpose(i.e. when grounds it turns on something) so thats 3 wires right there. i also don't need that pink/black one because thats power for the ecm and tells the computer to "prime the fuel pump". i also got some other stuff labeled such as speedo(got to double cheak that though) and the black/purple wire is for something to do with emissions.

basically....i can handle the 15 pin connection. just the grey not sure and also those other connections/do i need them.

That last red one looks like the one for the charcol canister valve

figured, thats what i thoght it was.

i just emailed you a few wiring diagrams for you,hope it helps.

yea i just got the e-mail. e-mailed you back too. thanks

i sent 4 separate diagrams for relays ,computer,fuse box and misc. to earthlink,let me know.

alright i'll cheak when i get home. haha, slept ALL afternoon and night yesterday, sorry.

alright lets see if i got this right. so far i got a good deal of the wires I THINK!...

Color-Port ID=what i think it is/goes to

orange-J=gear sel. switch
black-K=speedo
black/white-M=ground for ???
purple-R=power for cold start switch
orange-B=fuel pump reley power
brown-A=AJR selctor vavle(may be wrong, troble reading my writing)
tan/white-D=???
brown/white-C=SES
white/black-E=ALDL
black/purple-G=i know the plug it goes to just no idea what it is
tan/black-H=shift Indicator
pink/black-F=i deleted because i gave it power inside the engine compartment


as for that grey connector that i hear goes to the fuse block...

both pink/black's = power for fuel injectors
green, blue, and tan/white = ?????

jack,you should get the diagrams tomorrow ,even if you figured it out its good to have incase something else is wrong.

alright thanks. any idea on those things that i don't know what they are?

that black and puple wire goes to one of the 2 connectors on page 6 of my site. the second to the last pic. i have no idea what goes there but figure its emmisions.

and that tan and white wire goes to the MAF reley. but why?

it doesn't show it on the wireing diagram. becasue from the reley its SUPPOSED to go to where the pil pressure switch, fuel pump reley, and fuel pump power wires all meet....

and whats this gear selector switch? and why does that one wire go to the speedo?

and whats an "AJR" selector valve. if thats even right. i couldn't read really what i wrote on the tape

and don't more then just one wire goes to the ALDL?

thats about it for now. a GOOD deal of questions....haha

o and none of those e-mails worked.

are you sure the names right?

janetendress@earthlink.net



if it doesn't work then...

jackman5003@yahoo.com is my e-mail

Looks like it's for the backup switch.

To Coolant Temp Sending Unit. Connect to the sensor on the driver side head between #1 and #3 cylinder. It gets connected to your coolant temp gauge in the instrument cluster.

Air Diverter Valve/Solenoid. Located on the passenger side, right near the belt driven accessories.

Charcoal canister purge solenoid.

It's "relay", not "reley". That's the fan relay connector. Should be an ORG, BLK/RED, TAN/WHT, and GRN/WHT.

Pretty sure the gray connector goes to the HVAC controls (air conditioning) inside the Camaro/Firebird. The other one might be for light under the hood??

NOT injector power wires. The PNK/BLK wires are injector power. The other two wires that go to the injectors are the ones that the ECM grounds to fire the injectors.

Your picture is unclear to me.

ORG - J - Data Stream from ECM to ALDL cavities E and M

BRN - K - From VSS (back of speedometer) to ECM

BLK/WHT - M - Ground going to ALDL cavity A and a few other grounds

PPL - R - Cold Start Switch Power, goes to 3 AMP Crank fuse in fuse block

ORG - B - NOT fuel pump power, probably the test/prime circuit, DO NOT CONNECT TO IGNTION OR BATTERY POWER

BRN - A - AIR Select Valve Control, to ALDL cavity C

TAN/WHT - D - Fuel Pump Power Supply from fuel pump relay, this goes to the fuel pump

BRN/WHT - C - To SES indicator light in instrument cluster

WHT/BLK - E - ALDL Diagnostic Test, to ALDL cavity B

No Idea...I only have 87 and 89 diagram, not 88

TAN/BLK - H - Upshift Indicator, to ALDL cavity F

PNK/BLK - F - ECM Ignition power, to 10 AMP fuse in fuse block

I know you have a few more questions, but I have things to do tonight. If you don't get something figured out, let me know.

LMAO!...hahahahahaha...oops! could have ROYALY screwed something up there. thanks again man

yea, i'll get abetter pic of those blue n green wires for ya. they go to the same plug as the power for the injectors. i found them cut off right behind the drivers side valve cover(don't know why they were cut, and my brother has no idea what they are).

they must be power for something if they go to the fuse block right?

and this is an 87 harness, yet, some of the wires don't match. already found out a wire going to the computer is on the harness, but not in the schimatics, so i know something is screwy. maybe the harness was switched?

Depending on the year, the injector wires were PNK/BLK & DK BLU and PNK/BLK & DK GRN....OR....BLK & BLK/GRN and BLK & BLK/PNK.

So for some years, the power wires were PNK/BLK, and for other years the power wires were BLK.

Hope it clears things up.

yea i have the pink/black. i knew that was power for the injectors. just what the hell are these 2 wires?

and here are my questions....

1.what do i do about an ALDL? should i put one in or what? do i need it?
2.Orange B-still not sure what that is...
3.i don't have wiring for an SES light. the light itself is there, and the port in the connector, just no wiring. i dont know how i could wire it into the connector because thats what i'd like to do, keep it factory. maybe use the wires for the electric choke and when that light comes on its my SES? lol
4.BRN K- what about with my speedo, its mechanical
5.do i need an AIR deverter? i know what it is and i know it kept breaking on both my brothers camaros.
6.do i need a canister? a stupid question because i know the hose from the fuel tank goes to it but still...
7.that reLAY!...its for the truck. on the crappy schimatics it looks to be it says EPE reLAY. the wiring is pink, brown, 2 blues(in the same port but ones cut off) pink/black, and pink/white.


that should be about it for now. about all those fused powers, i'm going to get a small fuse block from the parts store. just one that can hold 5 or so connections. then mount it on my heter box or somewhere with easy but out of the way access.

and guess i'll re route that wire i had coming from the, coil wire was it? that told the computer that the ignition switch was in the run position. use that small fuse block instead. also reroute my fuel pump wiring because YIKES! its not fused right now. i just have a wire coming from the reLAY.

If you do not install one, you will not be able to connect a code scanner to the vehicle to determine what trouble code is being stored in the ECM.

Get out a multimeter and check for continuity on that wire to the fuel pump relay. I think it's the test/prime circuit.

I'm assuming your dash harness has a wire in it for the SES light. Just connect to that wire.

If there is no optical sensor on the back of the instrument cluster, then get a cluster that has one. The mechanical cable spins an optical sensor to send the VSS pulses to the ECM. Your cluster probably has this sensor.

No

Read this http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/show...+canister+vent

I don't know.


I wouldn't put any fuse under the hood unless is has a weather tight seal. So I don't recommend what you want to do.

no i mean the heater box inside the cab. i wouldn't run the wires back out to the engine comparment....

alright and i'll just get a canister....

and i was trying to say that i don't have the wires for the SES light. and the port on the connector for the guage pod, theres nothing there. and i don't know how i'd do that. so i was saying i'd just hook it to the electric choke light and use that instead.

there IS a port in the connector, and it IS printed on the printed circut for the guages, and there IS a space for a light bulb and it DOES say "SES". just theres no way to wire it up unless i rig it up, which i really don't want to do.

nermind, just leave it at that. i'll hook it to the electric choke light....maybe make a new one of those covers so then i can make it say "shift stupid" instead of "shift" or "right" and "left" instead of arrows

the truck didn't come with a computer so i doubt there is a sensor but i'll look when i get home.

and nevermind about that reLAY for the truck. i got diagrams coming today for my truck hopefully, i'll figure it out...



thanks again man

jack did your diagrams come today?

yep, thanks man. more then i expected. i got a freakin history paper to write so don't expect me to get back to working on the truck in the next couple of days...

but what i have so far should get me a ways...

thats cool if you need any more let me know,good luck

alright i got all but like 3 wires worked out of that 15 pin connector. i havent looked at that other connector yet besides mike telling me about the power for the injectors. i need to know...

can i hook the cold start wire to the purple wire that runs to the starter? that "excites" the starter?

also, is there a fuse between the reley and fuel pump? i'm guessing yes. and if so what size fuse?

and that wire running to the speedo, do i need that? and if anyone here has an s-series, what year do i get a guage pod with that sensor in it for the speedo?

also if i give this little fuse block i bought power during "run" can i connect the computer(to tell the computer to prime the fuel pump) AND injectors? or do the injectors need power during "crank" AND "run"?

and that orange wire you didn't know about goes to the ALDL. the ALDL i got is out of a firebird. not sure what year but the wire was red...(just to tell ya) the port letters were the same and all though.

injectors need power in crank and run positions as well as the ecm.

alright i guess i'll get rid of this fuse block i bought. take it back and get a couple in line fuses....alright that gets rid of one of those questions. any word on the wire for the VSS or the fuel pump fuse(if any) or the cold start switch?

the purple wire i'm talking about is the thick one that goes to a small stud on the starter. that has the starter engage...because that would only get power during crank wouldn't it?

The 86-88 S-10 cluster has the correct VSS on the speedometer. That cluster won't fit in your dash.

The cold start switch gets connected to the 3 amp crank fuse. Ditch the whole cold start setup and remove the wiring. All you have to do is put in a 89 prom with VATS removed and you're all set. Or you can connect the cold start purple wire to the 3 amp crank fuse. But I'd ditch the cold start setup. Street and performance sells a blockoff kit for $20. But I don't see what problem you'd have with leaving the injector in the rail and runner.

I can provide you with a stock memcal that will work for eliminating the cold start switch. Contact me privately if you go this route.

no i'll leave it in. don't feel like paying for a new PROM and all that crap. i was just trying to save some time by not having to remove my fuse block. won't be THAT hard to do though.

and what do i do about a speedo? buy an aftermarket one with one it it? or is there another alternative?

what about a fuse for the fuel pump like i said?

the injectors i guess i'll hook to a wire with power during crank AND power during run...

aaaand...thats about it, just figure out those other 2 or 3 wires in that grey connector and the cab wireing is done just about.

Here's how the fuel pump relay works. When the ECM sends the signal through the GRN/WHT wire, it energizes the coil in the relay to close the switch, routing power from the ORG wire to the TAN/WHT wire going to the pump. If you hooked it up properly, that ORG wire is going through a 20 amp fuse. The ORG wire is also connected to B1 and C16 in the ECM, the oil pressure switch, and the MAF relay. To answer your question, it would be redundant to put two fuses in one circuit.

About the injectors. We talked about this on AIM. You must use a separate relay to carry the power for the injectors. Don't overload another circuit that has power in ON and RUN. You'll start blowing fuses. You can use an ignition wire to energize the a relay's coil though.

Wire your injectors like this:

alright. sorry i asked twice. lol. where should i get a reley like that? could i use the one for the electric fans? because i have one of those laying around. and unless you could give me an way to id a reley i have like 5 other laying around just don't know what they are.

Any auto parts store will have a relay you can use. You'll find them in the electrical section with the wire, terminals, fuses, etc. Notice the numbers on the relay (85, 86, 87, 30). Those are all in the same positions for any generic relay. It's some sort of German standard that stuck.

Do you understand why you're going to use a relay? If you don't, then ask because it is very important that you do understand if you're working with your vehicle in this way.

Since we're talking about relays, I'm willing to bet that the wire insulation is pulling away from the relays in your wiring harness. You need to fix this. Your local auto parts store sells terminals that can be used to fix this. You'll also find those terminals in a multipack near the fuses, etc.

One more thing. Be sure to use nothing smaller than 18 gauge wire for wiring in that relay. This is the same size used in the original harness.

yea i understand why. just i figured since the wire is so small it wouldn't pull much current. also, couldn't i just run power to the wire and put an inline fuse in? run power straight from the fuse block?

and how do i ID a reley? because i have a box full or releys, switchs, and stuff like that from the black camaro.

You can test a relay with a battery and two pieces of wire. Keep trying different combinations to determine which wires are used to pick up the relay (energize coil). You'll hear the relay click when the switch closes.

As far as knowing how much power can pass through, you'll have to probably buy a new one for a couple bucks and read the rating on the package.

Yes, you can grab power from the fuse block, but what from the fuse block are you getting power from? I'm not so sure your fuse block has ignition power sources that are not in use from the factory.

yea i was thinking about that in school today, what to get power from. thats when i posted that. i'll look tonight if theres anything, if not then i'll use your idea.

what about running a wire from the starter stud to that fuse block, the one i bought?

There's two studs on the starter. Which one? And what are you powering with the fuse block you bought?

The S terminal on the starter is only for crank. The B terminal is only for battery power.

the one with the battery power. because the injectors need power during run and crank, so why not give them power all the time. unless they would be fireing for some reason when the truck is off...i'm just trying to save some wiring here. and i'm in no hurry to get it done thats why i have all these questions.

I would not wire them this way. It is true that the ECM grounds the injectors, so they won't fire until the ECM grounds them when the engine runs. However, they were not wired this way from the facory and it does not take much time and effort to wire them correctly while the vehicle is apart.

yea well this truck isn't exactly stock

ok well now i have JUST the VSS wire, and the blue and green wires. the blue and green wires go to the same grey connector that the power for the injectors are in.

and with this VSS, do i need it? and if so what should i do about it?

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Spe...eedometer.html

should i get number one on there?

yes you should use the vss ,do you have a mechanical speedo now in the s10? if you do yes get number 1 and hook it up.also the blue and green wires from the same plug with the power wires arent connected to anything on mine i have them taped off.

I just built a 87 TPI harness from scratch, so it's fresh in my mind. The gray 6 cavity connector has the following wires (for a manual transmission application):

PNK/BLK - Injector Power
PNK/BLK - Injector Power
LT GRN - To Backup Light Switch
DK BLU - To Backup Light Switch
TAN/WHT - Connected to the fan relay and goes to the 20amp fan fuse, also tied into alternator terminal f, but through bulkhead (yeah, it's confusing and was simplified in later years)

The harness for the automatic car in 87 did not have the LT GRN and DK BLU wires in the gray connector because the signal for the backup lights don't come from the automatic transmission.

alright well i guess i don't need the back up lights in the harness. i already have the ones from the truck laying down by the trans. need to get a new connector for the tranny because it broke i guess when it was taken out of the car.

i'll e-mail the guys at JTR and see if that speed sensor will work.

guess thats the end of this topic, haha.


thanks again guys:lala: