TPITuned Port Injection discussion and questions. LB9 and L98 tech, porting, tuning, and bolt-on aftermarket products.
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
Wasn't so sure that this has been covered, so I thought I'd post a little "how-to" for cleaning a TPI intake. There are a few things to watch out for and I'd hate to see someone ruin an engine because of an incorrect cleaning process.
Equipment used:
- garden hose
- parts washer ($100.00)
- parts washer solvent ($60.00 for 10 gallons)
- sand blasting cabinet (home built)
- glass bead
- air compressor
- 9/16 allen wrench (lower intake's bottom plugs)
- chrome steel balls (to remove dents from runners)
I used the garden hose to get any junk off the intake (leaves, loose dirt, etc). I soaked the setup in the parts washer and brushed off as much dirt, grime, and carbon I could. I'm trying to keep the least amount of dirt in my sand blasting cabinet. I pulled the plugs out of the bottom of the intake by heating them with a torch and using a 9/16 allen wrench. I bead blasted the entire intake (takes a long time), then blew it out with air thoroughly. The bottom plugs can be installed again with red locktite. I removed the dents from the runners using chrome steel balls I purchased on ebay. They don't make the runners as perfect as new, but very close.
It is very important that the bottom plugs are removed during cleaning. There are small holes in the intake runners that suck air into the bottom of the intake (where the plugs are). These passage ways can get dirt in them...especially if bead blasting the intake. You won't want a deposit of media (sand, glass bead, etc) in those passages).
I sent the injectors off to Rich at Cruzin Performance and will be sending the throttle body off to get bored to 52mm and have new bushings installed for the throttle shaft.
Before:
After:
Notice that the coolant eats away at the aluminum. The threads are half missing. This is definitely something to watch out for when purchasing a used TPI setup. The same thing happens to the aluminum water necks and the lower IAC housing plate.
Long ago when I was building a TPI engine I had a filthy TPI intake. I took it to a cylinder head shop and he cleaned it with same results as yours for $75. I dropped it off and picked it up the next day. Very convenient and saved me hours behind the sand blaster (which I have).
holy crap that cleaned up well. I just used a degreaser and then painted mine up cause I had no idea you could really get it that clean being bare cast aluminum.
__________________ JUST BOUGHT 87 IROC
------------------------------------------------
SOLD 4/16/04 was second owner----- 91 camaro 305tbi, lakewood LCA, Jet stage 2 chip, Gutted cat, dynomax freeflow catback, Accel cap and rotor, moroso wires, bosche +4 plugs, pioneer deck, amp and 2 more 6x9's in trunk, tbi spacer, open element with K&N, in the process of pulling engine too
------------------------------------------------
SOLD 4/28/05 was original owner ----2001 camaro SS, LS1, 6speed hurst shifter, t-tops, ZR1 Rims, mti lid, k&N filter, lous short stick, grantelli maf, slp air temp, !cags, ported TB, ported maf ends, denso plugs, msd wires, smooth air flow bellow, loud mouth exhaust, bmr panhard bar, bmr torque arem, bmr control arms, Star stage 2 Clutch, SFI flywheel, Hotchkiss subframe connecters, edelbrock strut brace, stealth box with xplod 10inch sub, phionex gold amp, MTX 4250D amp, and 2 kicker L7's, infinity kappa 6 x 9's much more to come
