Going to be replacing some or all of my injectors sometime after I can test which ones are leaking. I have priced/researched the following: 1988 PONTIAC FIREBIRD HOLLEY 522-2401 $79.99 PERFORMANCE FUEL INJECTOR KIT; 450 HP; 24 LBS./HR.; HIGH IMPEDANCE; 1 EACH; HOLLEY 522-2408 $489.99 PERFORMANCE FUEL INJECTOR KIT; 450 HP; 24 LBS./HR.; HIGH IMPEDANCE; 8 EACH; MSD 2016 $59.99 COMPETITION FUEL INJECTORS; STATIC FLOW 26 LB./HR.; DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR GM AND FORD 5.0L; ACCEL 19 POUNDS/HOUR 150819 0 YR SET OF 8; GP-SORENSEN NEW 800-1238N 1 YR $38.99 O.E.M. #0280150222, 10077513, 17110872, 17111961, 17112092, 17112093 STAMP #5235434, 5235435 BOSCH 0280150238 3 MO $99.99 Anyone know what I should be purchasing? These prices are all from Autozone. Thanks. Jeff

go to summitt and buy some svo 24# injectors for about $200 dollars per set.

I have found replacement injectors at Summit for 19# and 24#, but they say that the 24# ones will probably require ECU modifications. What are the advantages/disadvantages to going with the 24# versus the stock replacement 19#? See below.

Jeff


ACC-150824 Fuel Injectors, 24 lbs./ hr., 14.4 Ohms Impedance, 12 V Saturated Circuit Driver, Universal, Set of 8
Today $249.95
ACC-150821 Fuel Injectors, 21 lbs./ hr., 14.4 Ohms Impedance, 12 V Saturated Circuit Driver, Universal, Set of 8
Today $259.95
ACC-150826 Fuel Injectors, 26 lbs./ hr., 14.4 Ohms Impedance, 12 V Saturated Circuit Driver, Universal, Set of 8
Today $259.95
ACC-150819 Fuel Injectors, 19 lbs./ hr., 14.4 Ohms Impedance, 12 V Saturated Circuit Driver, Universal, Set of 8
Today $259.95
ACC-150823 Fuel Injectors, 23 lbs./ hr., 14.4 Ohms Impedance, 12 V Saturated Circuit Driver, Universal, Set of 8
Today $259.95

sorry, i misread what size engine you have. stick with the 19# so you won't have to burn a chip. also, stay away from the accel injectors. they are garbage. check these out:FMS-M-9593-C302 these are the injectors i was referring to. same brand, different size. again, stay away from the accel injectors.

here is a link to the summitt page:http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...h.asp&x=29&y=9

Thanks Jeff for the info. I just ordered a set from Summit like you said. I am curious why to use the Ford injector versus whatever they are recommending? How are they different from the Accel's?
Also, are they difficult to changeout?

Jeff

not difficult to change as they are a direct replacement. i am currently running them in mine. i had to reuse the factory retaining clips. some don't. the accel injectors have a bad reputation. do a search on them on this sight and you will find a lot of people agree. a lot of horror stories of them failing after installation.

Jeff,

The other Jeff steered u right.

Best bang for the buck injectors on the planet are them SVO's

later
Jeremy

Hey Guys,
Thanks for all the help. I now have the injectors and have a final question before I dive into replacing them. Do I only remove the upper portion of the air plenum in order to lift the fuel rail out and then individually replace the injectors? Or do I have to remove the entire air plenum assembly including the "piping" in order to replace the injectors? Also, when pulling the fuel rail assemblies out will they come fairly easy or should I expect a wrestling match?

Thanks,
Jeff

P.S. In other tips on this job would be appreciated.

you might be able to do it without removing the runners but it might be more difficult. if it is the first time the injectors have been out it could be a wrestling match but shouldn't be too big of a deal. since you have to buy all the runner gasket to get replacements(the ones i have bought), might as well go ahead and remove the runner to make getting to the injectors easier. i have edlebrock runners and to get the fuel rail out, the runners have to come off.

I have the accel's in mine and have had no problems. Been running them for almost one year. Bought them from Summit racing.

Regarding the SVO injectors: hands down it seems to be the highest regarded injector switch on thread after thread post. However; it was mentioned before that it might require a ECU adjustment????? is this because he has the 305ci? instead of the 350?

I have an 88 350 IROC engine with 150,000 miles and am sure the factory injectors are leaking, so I've been researching as many threads as possible. One thread mentions that with the 89-92 TPI (with the grey injectors) units are manufactured by "MULTEC" and are complete junk, not worth rebuilding.
Would anyone know what 'brand' I have in my 1988 and if they are worth sending out to be cleaned and flowed?

Besides the SVO injectors, what would be the 2nd or 3rd recommended units to choose from?

And lastly; at what point does an injector reach it's typical life span where you shouldn't even bother?
Nitro

Your '88 may have Rochester/Bosch injectors. If so, they are quite relaible. Before you jump on replacing them, you might want to check into having your existeng set cleaned and flow-matched. Talk to Rich at Cruzin Performance or any other competent injector repair service. He may have some insights about your injectors and what can be done with them. If you can, get the part or I.D. numbers from your injectors before checking in, since it can save a bit of time and frustration later.

bringing this one back from the dead. what are the signs of faulty injectors? i've ran into a choppy idle, kind of shotty gas mileage, and sometimes at WOT i'll get an SES light (but not often i think it's only happened twice.) i've basically narrowed it down to either being my o2 sensor and will be replacing that asap, or the injectors. so could a bad injector be the problem here? i've got 1990 350 IROC, does anyone know anything about the reliability or specs on these injectors (they're a greenish gray) thanks.

Bfox,
The symptoms that eventually led to me replacing all of my injectors were the following:

1. Hard starting after car had been sitting for longer than an hour
2. Heavy gas smell once car kranked over (out of the exhaust)
3. Checked fuel rail pressure with pump on and then off...there was a very noticeable drop in fuel pressure even after just a few minutes which let me know I had a quite a few that were leaking.

Don't know if this helps you, but probably I would at least check your fuel pressure to see if any injectors are leaking.

Best to ya,
Jeff

how are those svo injectors I have a chance to get some for my 1989 305 tpi camaro I do not want to do any modifications of any kind

If you do not want to do any modifications, than absolutely do not switch up to the larger injectors; you will be chasing your tail from then on out till you modify quite a few other things. You have the 305. Yours is PERFECT! Don't shoot yourself in the foot! Most of the L98's absolutely do not need the SVO's that I installed until they switch to aluminum heads.

I bought mine as I've been slowly building up a heavily ported 355 TPI monster.However, I had a miserable time keeping everything in balance during the build up process. So research what the pro's have written who post about fuel mapping and such; it won't take long to realize that it's usually a bad move that costs lots of money, starting with a new chip and ending with the Brooklyn Bridge and property in Florida....! Nitro-Nicky

thanks for the help... sounds like you have a monster in your garage!!!

.....That's the problem. It's still in the garage.

There's plenty of good quality small wrenching jobs you can do that will make a seat of the pants difference in your 305. Where are you at in relations to stock/standard??

For a good 305 horsepower build reference, see if you can still grab the July issue of Super Chevy magazine. They did some build testing on page 60. It's a good reference piece. Nitro-Nicky

This car has had no work done to it, I am the second owner for the last 11 years. I am just trying to get it to stop smoking when I start it so I just got the heads back today from the machine shop and was looking into injectors since I think mine may be leaking into the cylinders because I get lots of rich gas and oil smelling smoke when I start it after work. My plans are to keep it mainly stock but if I can improve on some things without causing trouble I am all for it... You've got to get yours out of the garage and into the sun thats what these cars are made for you know!

If you've got the heads off, please do yourself a favor and see if you can grab that article. Seriously! With a valve spring upgrade, a camshaft is dirt cheap to install and will make a HUGE difference. That article is perfect for what you're doing. A camshaft, springs, and headers will make you think you're driving a mild 383 afterwards. You won't get the high RPM's, but you'll out-do any stock 350 IROC anyday.

There's no reason to update the distributor, injectors, or expensive TPI porting from what I'm hearing you say. Those are great injectors to have rebuilt and your computer PROM is really balanced with the TPI system for maximum output. It's the breathing from the cam, heads, and exhaust that are the issue with the old style block.

Remember, back in 1989 the LB9 305 TPI coupled with the 5-speed slammed down an incredible 230hp and was consistantly nailing the 1/4 mile in 14 seconds with that clogged up cast iron manifold! People were doing Lake Bed runs near 150 miles an hour with the front end taped up!!

Where the intake showed up as a problem was when they added the extra 45 cube inches; THEN it couldn't fill the cylinders and the torque/hp numbers ended up being near identicle. So unless you're wanting something with more LS1 power qualities or a need to do some form of competitive racing, save yourself a 2-5 thousand and try a cam and header package research on the board here. You won't be sorry you invested the money now while the heads are already off.

(Unless you want to be like me and about 1800+ others on this board who've spent waaaay to much money and still don't have it all put back together.... booo-hoo-depression time) Nitro who now needs Therapy and anti-depressants because he put those dam# SVO injectors in too early in the engine build game.....

I don't know if I can find that magazine up here but I'll take a look, on the website it shows the may 2009 issue as current but that can't be right... I ordered the 19 lbs Bosch III's today I was going to throw them in and try that while I have the other ones shipped out to the states for rebuild since no one has heard of that kind of thing up here, but I haven't started bolting anything together yet so there is still time to change things. I was looking at a set of edlebrock EDL-68763 headers but haven't been convinced yet if they are going to fit without too much of a fight I don't want to pay the $700 they want for them and then be stuck with them. The car I have is the 230 hp Camaro from 1989 I have verified that with the serial number it matches the RPO G92 option with the higher redline tach 5,500RPM, dual cats (which I had cut out when I bought it), engine oil cooler, 145mph(233 km/h) speedo, performance axle 3.45, only 1426 built with this package according to wikipedia. It is cool that they could get up to 150 mph I think mine seems to top out at 120 mph but I never really pushed it too hard it seems like it limited itself once it got up to that speed like a cut off switch of some type.
Sounds like you have your hands full with yours I do not want to go down that road sounds expensive and time consuming, but I guess thats what its all about. Can you drive that thing on the street legally?

Edelbrock's 3rd gen headers are not up to snuff. Look up the Thread on Header Comparisons. The best header is actually made by one of the board members; Don. Better qualify and cheaper than it's, ahem... 'likeness'!

The reason so many of us go through alot of money modifying the factory TPI intake is so that it will actually visually pass hard core SMOG districts such as the likes of California. It's a time consuming process as the TPI system is built around a physics principle of 'Air Velocity'; something I originally knew nothing about. I think one of the favorite examples is to suck on a long straw. The air speed is multiplied herendously, ramming air into the cylinders at very low rpm; hence the tremendous truck like torque curve. But if you get to big of a straw and suck in, you'll quickly empty the straw; which is why we don't get the high rpms and why using to large of head or valve will destroy the entire power curve. It also really limits what amount of camshaft overlap you can use before it effects emmisions. Thus it's been a real exacting process that wasn't supported by General Motors and was left to the enthusiasts to peice together through lots of trial and error. And lots of expensive dyno time so we can stay street legal.

For yours, you'll want to check in on the heavier springs, install something like an inexpensive set of 1.5 ratio ProComp roller rockers. Besides the obvious reduced friction, you're going to get a much quicker and improved ramp up rate and repeatably smooth duration at prolonged high rpm's.

Your factory heads are prone to detonation, so please do a little research on a new cam here on the board. That article I mentioned used the Comp XM270HR cam, but it went with a set of aluminum custom heads. Camshaft science has skyrocketed forward since they initially came out with our TPI engines and it would behoove you to invest the cheap $$$ they cost for a quicker ramping, taller lobed, yet fairly mild beast that will burn those fat sticky rear tyres right off, expecially with that rarer rear gearing yours came with! Best of Luck!!! Nitro

I am having a hard time with this site since I am new here maybe I am doing something wrong. When I enter the search lets say for "header comparisons" it comes up with all kinds of topics but none that really have anything to do with my topic. Is there a better way? Also how do you create a new question instead of like I am doing just jumping into other peoples conversations?