Johns1989irocz

I have to drop my tank to replace my fuel pump, I have read my manual, and this is going to be a bigger job than I thought. There are so many things to do before getting to the tank....(disconnect the exhaust, remove coil springs, etc...) Its gonna take me a week to do this. What was GM thinking when they made it so hard to replace the pump. OH YEAH, NOW THEY CAN CHARGE AN UNG*DLY PRICE FOR THE DEALERSHIP TO DO IT FOR YOU. I have had the crappiest day. It started out that I was doing the tail light mod (orange to red), my rear hatch power pull down motor died on me, in the farthest down position (go figure), so after screwing around for about 4 hours on how to rig something up to keep the hatch closed I figured I would pull the beast out of the garage and wash her and check the lights out in the daylight. Car would not start, sprayed ether in, car ran for about 3 seconds on ether, when it needed gas, she died out. I turned the key on and the fuel pump doesn't even kick on. So I had my dad get me a new one (75.00) with his parts store discount, thanks dad. I figured it would be a breeze to do the job, WRONG MISTER. I thought about selling the car today, I have only had it for about 2 months. Then I realized that this car is 17 years old and like most ladies, when they get old, things start going. Well folks now that I am done venting you can go and read a thread that may be helpful to you and some problem you may be having

Thank You

formula350sd

iTrader: (2)

Tell that to the techs that have to work on them at the dealer its just as much work for them as it is for you only difference is the lift

Johns1989irocz

good point, never thought of that one. I was just venting anyways

thank you for your input

IROCZ4BD3

iTrader: (4)

changing the pump in the tank isn't that big of a deal.No need to remove both springs.Done it atleast 8 times w/o a lift on the ground in anywhere's from 2 to 5 hrs.

formula350sd

iTrader: (2)

No problem alot of people think that dealers are the devil (well they are) but there are hard working people there too that deal with nightmares you could only imagine a friend of mine had a car in his stall for weeks he couldent figure it out GM tech assistance couldent figure it out he reaplace part after part nothing worked and finally he found a ground that the previous tech that did an alternator swap forgot to put back on imagine dealing with that my friend

Johns1989irocz

according to my haynes or chilton manual, dont remember what one i have, it says to remove the coil springs
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too bad you are almost 2 hours away from me, you could have done it for me (lol)

IROCZ4BD3

iTrader: (4)

Here you go:jack rear as high as you can go then support on jack stands,remove rear tires,panhard bar,track bar and sheilds below gas tank.unbolt rear sway bar in pass tire well.Unbolt pass side rear LCA bolt.unbolt shocks,Pass spring should fall out,remove gas door & black inner thing.Disconnect gas lines be sure to use backup wrench,Disconnect electrical connector above gas tank.Unbolt exhaust at converter and take out pass side of car.Unbolt straps holding tank ans slowly manuver down and out.Tank will rest on lowered rear and you willbe able to remove ring on top with hammer and screwdriver.
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easton isn't that far away..I have some thirdgen friends that live in Easton,Bethleham (sp) etc.

IROCZ4BD3

iTrader: (4)

Support rear with jack until you are ready to drop tank then lower.

Johns1989irocz

thank you, ill try to get started on it tomorrow, i gotta get it out of my garage first, my mom dosent want gas fumes all over the house, my sister is handicapped and very sensitive to certain smells, gas is one of them.

91Z28

Yea it isnt that hard, after i spent two days doing it the first time, i can drop it now in about an hour, but i totally see where the poster is comming from i once replaced the pump with a new unit, and went on vacation a week later, when i came back the pump was dead.... no reason, so i got to change it twice in about a 3 week period grrrr

IROCZ4BD3

iTrader: (4)

The first time that Kat & I did mine we had to change it 4 times in a 6 week period.First time parts guy gave me a TBI pump then TPI pump failed then broken wire etc.Finally installed Walbro pump and haven't had a problem since *knock on wood*

Fast92RS

iTrader: (2)

Ive done it twice. It is much easier with everything out of the way and no gas in the tank. Ive seen people cut a access panel throught the floor to get to the pump. I dont know if it such a good idea though.

Red Devil

Fixed it for ya.

John, before you tear into it make sure you check the fuses etc. and then test the pump by applying 12v to the 'G' terminal of the ALDL. You could have the no prime issue b/c of a bad f/p relay, and depending on how long you cranked, you may also have a bad oil pressure switch... or you could have a bad fuel pump. No way to know until you actually dagnose it.

This site is a good resource for info when you start repairs or projects, but only is you use that search feature. You'll find a few ways to pull the tank as well, but whatever you do, don't cut into the hatch unless you are prepared to spend a good amount of time to do it properly. I haven't seen one done on here yet that I would cal properly done.

IROCZ4BD3

iTrader: (4)

Funny thing is I don't remember YOU being there so how would you know.

Johns1989irocz

where is the f/p relay? i know there is a bank of 3 on the firewall and 2 of them are for the maf sensor, i dont have a fuse panel cover in my car and i checked all the fuses in the box and they are all good. my oil pressure reads the correct psi on the gauge. i want to replace the f/p anyways since it is 17 years old, and i do have a small leak in the tank, so with it dropped i can try to find it.

'91TealRS

Just want to add my : Be sure to disconnect the battery to avoid any unexpected sparks around all those fumes.
I like your Camaro Psalm, can I send it to my friends? I'll give you credit for it

IROCZ4BD3

iTrader: (4)

John did you check the fuel pump fuse?On my 86 it's on the fender right near the battery.

Johns1989irocz

sure, anybody can use my psalm, i actually found it some where online a few years ago, wish i could remember where as to give credit to them.

Xophertony

i have done this job three times now. i don't know why, but it consistantly remains an ALL DAY (as in 9am to 6PM) job for me. last time i finished it in time to drive to my car clubs anual dyno-dinner.

a few tips:
1.once you get the new pump in, mount the tank and put gas in and start the car BEFORE you re-install the rear end.
2. disconnect the brake hard line retaining clips along the "frame" so you do not have to disconnect the soft lines and re-bleed the brakes. you also will not bend anything this way.
3. DO NOT take the easy way out and bend the tank retainer straps. they will NOT bend back into the right position EVER.
4. i did not re-install my heat shielding and have had zero problems. if anything it acts as a slight fuel warmer
5.in case you did not know, replace the tank sending unit seal ring and strainer at the same time. i neglected to replace the tank sending unit o-ring on my 1986 and i STILL smell gas and get a slight leak when the tank is full. the part number on the oring is 22515965. i know becaus i still have the new oring . i just forgot to bring it with me to my dads shop when i did the job. i decided it was not worth the ten minutes it would take me to swing back by my place to get it. boy do i regret THAT decision.

have fun, be safe. remember to ALWAYS use jack stands while working under a car and no smoking

Red Devil

Simple, I'm using his typical MO.

And take the joke for what it was you big cry-baby, or I'll start calling you Teal.

Fast92RS

iTrader: (2)

Same here I was in a rush to get the job done so I skipped going to get a new Oring. I dont have any leaks but everythime I work on the rear area of the car I get a slight gas smell. I am not about to go throught all that to replace it.

Kat

iTrader: (4)

2-5 hours? SnowyJay and I did his in hour and 20 min.. 2 guys + air tools with a 20 min break.. lol

93_SilveradoTPI

iTrader: (5)

Maybe its because he has beer breaks?



do not forget to disconnect the negitive terminal from the battery! even though its been said before just a good reminder.

Kat

iTrader: (4)

Maybe because there is a umm vent there for the gas tank.. Hrmm I think that might have something to do with the slight gas smell.


Nahh no beer breaks. Some of the times we did it, some unusual problems occured with what we were doing.

Fast92RS

iTrader: (2)

True but I didnt have the smell before I changed the fuel pump.

Johns1989irocz

does anybody know what this is??

there is a big plastic piece near the fuel lines and it just hangs there, it almost looks like something could be connected to it, i cant get a picture of it (no camera available). it almost looks like some sort of a vent or something, anybody ever hear of or see something like this????

Kat

iTrader: (4)

Thats the vent, as I mentioned above. It only allows gas vapors to escape and doesn't let anything back in. Yes there should be a hose connected to it with a worm clamp.

Johns1989irocz

to everyone who replied to this message. I just wanted to let you all know that I got the new pump in and the car runs great, the only problem i have now is that i must have bent the float arm, as the gauge doesnt move off of a 1/4 tank, but i can live with that for now, i dont feel like dropping the tank for a long while again.

IROCZ4BD3

iTrader: (4)

No problem glad it worked out for you

adilson delima

question i my mechanic replace my fuel pump and sending unit, now my car is smoking black, any one knows why/????????????

Blazer79

The mixture is too rich. I too am having this problem. Maybe the new pump is too strong and the fuel pressure regulator can't cope with it. I'll let you know if I can find a fix. I'm thinking on replacing the fuel pressure regulator.

adilson delima

thanks for the imput, please let me know, if it works, and the costs, i just spend almost $500 and know this?
i'll b waiting!!!

Blazer79

Just to give you a heads up. Today I removed my fuel pressure regulator. It's not the culprit. My return line to the tank is clogged. I'm gonna have to remove the tank again to check out what did I leave wrong.

blbruegg

I know this isn't a new post but there is another way to change the fuel pump in about 1/2 hour with a grinder, a drill some rivets, sealing foam tape and some sheet steel....

Remove rear carpet above the back seat, nearly center is where the Fuel pump is. Cut a 10x10" piece out with your grinder or sheet metal cutters. Remove hoses/clamps, undo lock ring and voila pump is out. Reverse process for reinstall. Now just put your sheet metal and sealing tape around the hole after you've drilled for the rivets and put the cover on.

Had to do this on 4 different 3rd gens works great