HaulnA$$

The 5 wires for the linear EGR valve are for two seperate functions combined in the linear EGR valve. Two wires are for the linear EGR pintle control motor, switched 12V and EGR control from the PCM, and three wires are for the EGR pintle position feedback, sensor 5V and sensor 5V return from the PCM, and the pintle position signal to the PCM. HTH

__________________
If it doesn't make it go fast, stop fast, or look cool, its fluff!

Dale

Good info hauln. As I said in my post, it was all guessing.

1989GTATransAm

Thanks guys. So they use a pintil motor like on the idle air control. It sounds to me that this could be done by a 12V double pole relay. One set of coils to close the relay and feed back to the ECM if necessary and the second set of coils to open the relay and feedback to the ECM if necessary by contacts on the relay. Then of course another set of contacts to operate the TPI EGR solenoid.

On second thought maybe two relays would work. Maybe even the old MAF relays could be used since I converted to speed density. That way it would look stock.
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Dale, were you thinkin of using the newer style EGR and that was the reasoning for machining a part?

Dale

So it would use the part its designed to be using. Or yea, the newer style.

86L69

I have a few thoughts on these posts about 24 & 58X timing reluctors to eliminate the distributor.

One concern voiced is that reduction of diameter will reduce the period of the signal to a 'blip'. However, the smaller the diameter, the lower the tangential speed at that diameter.
The two are proportional: v (tangential velocity) = r (radius) x w (angular velocity in radians)
So as long as the sensor has sufficient resolution, it should not be able to distinguish any difference since the period of the signal should remain constant even though the reluctor diameter has been changed. The trick here could be identifying the right sensor.

The other option is to mount the reluctor on the OD of the crank pulley and space out the sensor to match its location. You can wire EDM out the ID of a reluctor and fit it onto the OD of a crank pulley. Once location is established it can be welded into place. Granted its timing location may not be as accurate as placing it on the balancer but it seems that the balancer diameter is too close to that of the reluctors. This could also be a good excuse to use an underdrive pulley.

Has anyone put any of this theory into practice?

tenplus1

86L69 - great observation on the tangential speed of the reluctor teeth. I knew something didn't seem right about the thought process expressed earlier (shorter pulse duration), but I couldn't put my finger on it. And I assume what you mean by finding the "right sensor" is that it would need to be one sensitive enough to pick up the smaller amount of ferrous material in its field. I tend to agree with that also.

As far as putting this stuff into practice, I have only done so in my head. I keep intending to buy a 24x reluctor to look at and take measurements from. Then I can CNC a reduced-diameter version in the race shop. Of course, if someone already has a dimensional drawing of the reluctor, that would be even better (anyone?).

I'm supposed to pick up my new 383 next weekend, so I'll have that to goof around with soon. Problem is, my job just got outsourced to Mexico and as of Sept. 28th I'll be unemployed unless I find something else pretty quickly. Magic 8-ball says "outlook not so good" on that though. I guess on the bright side, I'll have lots of time to work in the garage... but with zero income I expect progress will grind to a halt rather quickly.

Interesting concept putting the reluctor on the crank pulley. Hmm... now ya got me thinkin' again...

-TP1

Dale

My project is getting so close I can taste it

cant have 2 knock sensors, so I need to remove the 2nd wire.
Install only knock sensor
wire up ac system(basically, only wiring left)
damaged dash temp gauge wire, so fix that.
install belt
install runners, upper plenum, TB.
mod my ignition coil wire since I'm running old style coil
Get VSS plug, install
plug up o2 sensor
test to see what fuel pump I have
solder wires to dash cluster and ALDL port
wire loom all this crap (cant decide what color to use)

waiting on maf to TB boot to come in

after running, take to shop and have other o2 bung installed.
tune!!!!


original plan to start date was 19th. That shouldnt be any problem unless this fuel pump is the wrong one :scared:

Dale

sorry, just happy to see it this far.

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1989GTATransAm

Looking good. Wish that was going on my car.

Justin89Formy

lookin good!

Dale

thanks

hooked up battery for first time last night. no smoke!
tested fuel pump. I have wrong fuel pump.
But good news is injectors hold pressure!

scuzz

What fuel pump were you using?
Ron

Dale

The car was orginally a 305 TBI. When I got it, 350 TBI with a hole in the hump over the rear axle so I was thinking they had installed a new fuel pump for the 350(305 one isnt enough). Reading on here ppl recommend installing the TPI pump. Guess thats not what was installed.

scuzz

On the 41 pickup I'm using, I used 92 S10 Blazer tank and bought 98 Vortec truck fuel pump and it was a direct fit from the S10 pump. I don't know if it is any better than the TPI unit, but it was the same price and we're sort of using the same vortec stuff.
Ron

Mkos1980

Both my cars utilize the Walbro 255 pump. Been running that for almost 8 years now with no problems.

Dale

Got the pump swapped. Attempted to start the car tonight, it starts, runs for about 5 seconds then stalls. Instantly can start again, but then dies again.

I have 52psi of fuel.
I have not modified the ECM/PCM yet.
Anyone have ideas or suggestions?

Dale

btw. Whos got EGR???

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scuzz

Could the VATS need to be turned off in PCM?
Just a thought.
Also, the injectors in the 0411 are set for 19# if I remember correctly, even though it wouldn't have anything to do with your problem.
Ron

tpiselli

Do you have any data logging tools? I would try to log what's going on then post it here and a tuning forum. If I recall the ecm switches to 'after start enrichment' once it stops cranking and starts running. Could be as simple as working over this value.

Dale

another forum thats been helping me says its vats/passlock. As well some searching on the net says so too. Nothing on the ecm wire diagram shows a theft system on here or I would have been working on that a while ago.

tpiselli, no logging system at the moment. Planned to get efilive next month. I do have an obd2 scan tool, shows no codes. However, I am not sure I wired my diagnostics port correct. Going to check that tonight.

scuzz

Dale;
Check your PM.
Ron

S10Wildside

Cavity 2: Serial Data
Cavity 4: Ground
Cavity 5: Ground
Cavity 16: Battery

tpiselli

Hey folks,
My '86 4bbl LG4 engine is finally all torn down and ready to go to a machine shop which means I'm in need of some information from you folks for this conversion. One important piece of information about the engine I want to put together. It's going to be used as a daily driver which will see 140-170 miles a day of which 98% are highway cruising. Thus, I'm looking for durability and fuel economy rather than quarter mile times. I'm going to swap in a 4l60E transmission and probably keep the 2.73 rear. So, with that the questions:
- Camshaft: I've read on numerous forums that the '86 "peanut" cam has to go. So, I'm looking for recommendations. I've seen the Crane compucam 2040 and the Comp XE262H suggested on other threads, anyone have any other thoughts?
- Heads: I'm planning on keeping the stock heads (casting 14014416) but was wondering if upping the intake valves from 1.84" to 1.94" is worth while?
- Pistons and CR: The stock pistons have what looks like 4 valve reliefs in them so I'm guessing they're the dished type and the engine had a 8.5:1 CR. Should I change to flat top pistons and push the CR to 9.5:1 to match a 305 TPI motor?
That's all for now. Thanks for any information you can share. I'm really looking forward to this conversion as this is my first tear down and engine build up.

Dale

I have done some reading, and it sounds like the EGR valve opens up a bit at crusing speeds to help in MPG. As well it will need lots n lots of tuning to get the best mpg out of it.

Get a cam with little to valve overlap, IIRC around 111 or 112. Roller cam and roller valves to reduce friction.

keep a 195 t-stat.

jwscab

Hey tpiselli,

not to throw a wrench into your plans, but if you are already building a motor from scratch and aren't looking for super performance, rather than build up the old lg4 and have to adapt things (as well as build a fuel injection system), you should figure out how much all this will cost, vs finding a low(er) mileage vortec motor out of a truck or suburban, and consider using it complete, with fuel injection system, and just upgrade the ecm. It might be a cheaper and easier path.

if you have already dedicated yourself to rebuilding the LG4 and have all the fuel injection stuff already, just disregard what I'm saying.....

scuzz

Really not a bad idea.
You could find 97-98 L31 truck in yard and get motor/trans/harness/PCM and use it all. The 97-98 PCM is okay for normal driving.
Change the cam to stock LT1 or LT4 for about 20-50.00 and you'd have a pretty great running car with OBDII.
The stock truck harness could be dressed up a bit if you are on a budget.
The truck guys are re-pinning their harness's to run the 0411.
Check out this site http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewto...53890c55fdf9fa. But a basically stock setup would be fine for normal needs.
I think Fast355 did that in a van. I remember reading a post on here about it.
Ron

S10Wildside

Just days ago I spoke with someone doing this conversion with an older block (400ci SBC). He had clearance problems with the timing reluctor and timing chain. He decided to mount the reluctor outside the cover. The car has several problems (which may not all be related to the external sensor/reluctor):

• Engine won't rev past around 4500rpm. This is not a tuning issue. With adjustments to the sensor position, 5200rpm was possible. It was very unpredictable and unreliable.
• Serious Radio Frequency Interference. Running the car caused the dyno, Moates Road Runner, and shop lights to shut down and/or behave strangly.

I didn't experience this first-hand, but maybe Jamy will chime in and share additional thoughts.