Dale

The ECM will have to atleast have the VATS modified before you fire it.

TB sensors. The TPS is fine. Im having a bit of problems getting the IAC to fully function right, but I'm not a pro-tuner. It will control it.

Ive had a s10 4.3maf on mine. This weekend installed the propper 5.7l. Some guys on the truck board use the LS7 maf? If your gonna boost, I would suggest the LS7 maf.

Will the injectors truely physically fit? And what ohm reading are they? If they are high-ohm and physically fit. I dont see why it wont run them.

Mkos1980

I would go mafless. Were running boost mafless and have 0 ill effects. In my eyes its just another thing to buy and worry about.

__________________
89 Pontiac FORMULA 350
Miniram, 383, Eagle Rotating, SRP Slugs, TF heads, LPE219, OBD II 411 ECM and Vince Janis 4L60E
89 Camaro RS
ATI ProCharged 355 TPI, Lunati Pro Mod Rotating. Wiseco Slugs, LPE216, OBD II 411 ECM and Vince Janis 700R4

dimented24x7

The only caveat with these is that the MAF and SD are very closely coupled together and neither one has complete control of the fueling, so it takes some care to weed the MAF out. There appears to be an airmass blending multiplier matrix for the cylinder airmass, dynamic airflow, and dynamic airmass calcs that can allow you to either have the fueling be just via the MAF or SD if its set up properly.

PonyKiller87

Not sure if anyone else seen it, but there is a guy on ebay selling billit vortec distributors. Looks just like the Accel one, I couldn't tell if it was Accel or not in the pics. But hes selling them for about $200 each which is a decent deal compared to what Summit wants for the Accel.

Mkos1980

Also I have seen CHEAP used distributors on ebay. MerCruiser also uses them on their 96 and up marine motors as well. No body really looks up mercruiser to find a distibutor.

Justin89Formy

I got my distributor for $5 from a Safari van with the 4.3

Matt gave me his v8 distributor cap and off we went!

PonyKiller87

Yeah but thats a stock one with the $hitty fiberglass base. After you have a few of them break on you you'll see why the billit ones are nice.

Justin89Formy

I guess. Never heard of that happening though. What are the symptoms? No start?


I still love this swap. Theres just something about going out to my car when its 20 degrees out, literally bumping the key, and the car instantly fires and holds a perfect idle. This swap is probably the best thing I've had done to my car.

I'm in the process of resealing the intake now. I hope the distributor doesn't give me any lip! lol

Dale

I'm still having glitches with mine. I swapped to the propper maf and its saying it needs another 10% of fuel at idle, but yet it reaks of raw fuel?

Still cant get the re-start/hot idle right.

For self tunners, it takes a bit to get this stuff set right.

PonyKiller87

The problem usualy comes when you go to replace the cap and rotor for a tune up. The screws are locked into the cap and the new cap comes with new screws that have fresh lock tite on them. If you dont clean all of that off the screws it will jam with the old lock tite thats still in the whole from the old screws and the little ears on the base snap. The first time I did it I didnt even notice, seemed like it was on there fine then I started getting random missfire codes. when I was checking things out I noticed the cap was loose, tried to tighten it and found the broken ear. Basicaly lock tite and fiberglass is a bad idea.

jwscab

I always re-use the screws to avoid that....it was stupid idea, for sure...

PonyKiller87

Ok, so Im looking at EFI live and they have V1 Scan and tune for $550 and V2 Scan and tune for $750, I can see on the vehicle list that V2 obviouly does more of the newer stuff the V1 won't. Which one are you guys running? Im leaning twards the V1 because I don't see myself needing to tune anyting newer.

S10Wildside

I'm using both V1 and V2, but it doesn't really matter because the software is the same. Like you said, if you're never going to tune the newer control modules (E40, E38, E67, etc) then you don't need to spend the extra $200.

Justin89Formy

just replaced my intake manifold gaskets. Buttoned everything up on the car. The distributor wasnt turned to the same place as it was when removed. My mistake, I should have caught that. I started the car. It idled rough and would pop/hesitate through the exhaust. It set a misfire code. I turned the distributor back where it was, and fired the car up. it was MUCH better...I drove it a little. It has a weird surge/hesitation now. Despite clearing the misfire code, it came back. Mkos says I might have to do a crank relearn. I also added a ram air box, and underdrive crank pulley but I doubt it would make the car run weird.

dimented24x7

I dont think it has to do a re-learn. Your timing may be off, and the cam sensor pulse could be too late/early. The main purpose of the cam sensor is to give the computer a reference for when the cylinder firing order restarts. It uses it to make sure that the #8 cylinder fires after the cam sensor pulse is recieved. If thats not satisfied (pulse too early/late or absent), then initially it does a full reset and starts the firing sequence again, at least in my computer. I dont think precision down to minute increments of a degree are necessary, but you should probably relocate TDC using the #1 piston as a reference and put the dist. back that way.

Mkos1980

You can reinstall the distributor within 2* of setting a code. If the cam sensor pulse it a little late or early it needs a relearn reguardless. The crank and cam need to be in sync. He can still put it back to tdc and point it to 1 but it'll still need a relearn. On the formula we threw a timing light on it for the hell of it. Heck. The markers from the timing light never even appeared on the balancer. lol

__________________
89 Pontiac FORMULA 350
Miniram, 383, Eagle Rotating, SRP Slugs, TF heads, LPE219, OBD II 411 ECM and Vince Janis 4L60E
89 Camaro RS
ATI ProCharged 355 TPI, Lunati Pro Mod Rotating. Wiseco Slugs, LPE216, OBD II 411 ECM and Vince Janis 700R4

Justin89Formy

good to know! Hopefully I'll be able to fix this problem this weekend when the rain stops, and im not busy doing a million things. Good weather is coming and I want to start daily driving my car to work

Mkos1980

Got a eChek today so that I could get my plates for this year. Here are the numbers for the formula with just a converter and 7 month old untreated gas.

HC 29.1 PPM Limit 144.0
CO .92 Limit .92 Just snuck by on this one!
NO 200.4 PPM Limit 1014.0
CO2 14.55 Limit N/A For 1989 There is no requirement

__________________
89 Pontiac FORMULA 350
Miniram, 383, Eagle Rotating, SRP Slugs, TF heads, LPE219, OBD II 411 ECM and Vince Janis 4L60E
89 Camaro RS
ATI ProCharged 355 TPI, Lunati Pro Mod Rotating. Wiseco Slugs, LPE216, OBD II 411 ECM and Vince Janis 700R4

Justin89Formy

OK guys, got a question. I just hooked up my buddies snapon scantool so I could finally do a crank relearn on my car.

He used the vin off of his 2001 trans am so his scantool would go into the menus and whatnot, so we could access the relearn procedure.

I got to the first step where it says to give it gas until the fuel cutoff. I tried about 5 times, and there was never a fuel cutoff!

I've tried to contact my tuner so I can ask him some questions but he's not returning my messages

Are there certain scantools that this wont work with? Maybe using my buddies VIN messed it up? HALP!! lol

S10Wildside

For the sake of documentation and to provide additional insight to these questions, I'm posting my experience with this. Justin and I spoke by phone today.

VIN Selection
It would probably be best to use an 01-02 Express Van VIN for the scan tool because that is the calibration loaded into the PCM. However, EFILive does not ask for this and I would suspect it doesn't really matter what VIN is used for the SnapOn tool anyway.

Park/Neutral Signal
We discovered that in this case the Park/Neutral signal was never applied while attempting to do the relearn. This is a show stopper. The PCM will never do a relearn without grounding the Park/Neutral wire(s). I mention wires (with an 's') because it's Blue 32 and Blue 34 that are actually grounded. I've been building harnesses where these wires are spliced together into one wire.

"Powertrain" Codes Present
If a "powertrain" code is set you can not perform the relearn procedure. I do not recall the exact range of codes that are considered "powertrain", but your best bet is to make sure the only code present is the crankshaft relearn code. If you have any other codes set, fix the problems or reflash the PCM to disable the codes (where appropriate) before doing the relearn. This is also a show stopper. In other words if you have an electric fan code, you can not choose to "fix it later" and still do the relearn. It's just the way the system was designed. Justin has a Fuel Pressure code set, but without having the actual code number, I can not look to see if it is a "powertrain" code. Regardless, it would be best to disable that as it is not used with his car.

Justin89Formy

I'll borrow my buddies scan tool and get the code numbers/descriptions so some clarity can be shed on my problem. Thanks for the help!

wgeous

Hey guy just chiming in again, long time no here. I just got 4 bolt .030 main block back from machine shop, I'm using ZZ4 cam and heavy duty vortec chain. Did the guys using the vortec timing chain have problems with the timing chain binding or the camshaft going backward in block? I'm currently blueprinting block and checking clearances. I have a cam button and not worried about the cam riding forward. I did'nt have the roller lifter in when I was checking clearances. Is there a bronze bearing I can put behind cam sprocket? I hate being the problem child on this board, any help would be appreciated.

1979 4-bolt 355, speed pro dished hypereutectic pistons 9.45:1, moly rings, 5.7 procomp rods, gm forged steel crank std, zz4 cam, crane solid roller lifters, 1990 305 heads, 1.84, 1.50, ported

sol_searcher

With the 041 ECM I would prefer to use a MAF system on my 89 L98. I want to stay MAF because I have the L98 in a Jeep that operates at from below sea level to 10,00 ft of elevation. Also, I am assuming modifications will be accomodated better by keeping MAF. Can I use the later model MAF like the LS1 or LT1 has? GM Part Number? Or what can I get it off of at pic-a-part?

battman

adjust the rear cam plug in to keep the cam from setting to far back into the block, then use the cam button to keep it from moving forward. or you can grind the ears off the thrust plate that is supposed to be used with the zz4 cam on the 87 and later blocks.

__________________
1987 GTA, ODBII 0411 PCM, 355, World Product sportman II heads, Comp XFI268HR cam, miniram, T56, soon to be turbo!
Idle clip:
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/2...5500a00cf4.htm

2000 WS6, MAC headers, Corsa catback, SLP lid, LS7 clutch, sixspeeds inc. built transmission, F.A.S.T 85mm intake, 85mm throttle body.

rocko350

there is a dorman distributor on rockauto.com that is a metal distributor. the unit comes as a distributor, cap and rotor.

dimented24x7

It sucks that there are no real good solutions for using an older block. Im using a retro-roller, so it'll be interesting trying to rig up the crank sensor.

Not sure how well the plastic cover would stand up to a cam button. Some of them have bearings in them, so one of those would be the best bet, along with bracing the cover using the water pump so it doesnt crack.