TPITuned Port Injection discussion and questions. LB9 and L98 tech, porting, tuning, and bolt-on aftermarket products.
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Ok I thought you were saying the 4x crank got the coil packs. UGH. Will have to see what this program says when it comes in.
I found that info on MSD's site, but it said they used a different plug on them. Dunno what went to what or how its wired. All I have visual access to is a 01/02? silvy with a 5.3. I know they dont look like the LS1's I see on summits site.
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Ok I thought you were saying the 4x crank got the coil packs. UGH. Will have to see what this program says when it comes in.
Maybe I accidently posted something misleading. Can you let me know the post number and I'll clarify.
Quote:
I found that info on MSD's site, but it said they used a different plug on them. Dunno what went to what or how its wired. All I have visual access to is a 01/02? silvy with a 5.3. I know they dont look like the LS1's I see on summits site.
The Camaro/Firebird/Corvette coils use a metripack 150 connector and the truck coils use a GT150 connector. However, the coil harness is interchangeable with most (if not all) Gen 3 and Gen 4 engine harnesses.
I built the engine harness for the test engine today and loaded a modified 2002 Corvette LS1/T56 calibration into a 12200411 PCM. I'm using a used throttle actuator control module (TAC) and Corvette accelerator pedal. Going to use EFILive for the calibration work.
When this goes into the 1991 Trans Am I may use the E40 ECM (2005 Corvette LS2). It is smaller than the LS1/LS6 PCM and has electronic throttle built in. The only trick will be adapting the newer two wire knock sensors to the block.
The spark plug wires pictured are for a gen 3 truck application. They're a little too tight, so I'm going to have to find an alternative. For now they'll work.
Last edited by S10Wildside; 05-18-2008 at 08:47 AM.
We had just enough time today to crank the engine. It tried to run, so we adjusted the crank reluctor. Then it didn't want to run at all. Then we ran out of time. We'll probably make more progress on this toward the end of the week. We'll get it.
Here it is on the test stand, ready to run.
Last edited by S10Wildside; 05-20-2008 at 01:17 PM.
Because the focus of this thread has been on the distributor-based calibration of the 12200411 PCM, I have created a thread in the DFI and ECM forum for distributor-less discussion. That way we can keep this topic focused on it's original topic.
Well.. whats needed to use the COP on the lt1???? We all need only a crank reluctor ring. What does this ring need to have? i have access to a CNC machine from a customer of mine and he told me it was no problem building it. In fact. It was no problem building the complete timing cover...
If you can post a picture of the reluctor ring and the diameter and such I should be able to make one and test it out.
Cout me in for 2 of them !! lol. Still by far the best mod ever. lol Sad though that I have driven both cars about 100 miles each only this year. Just not into them anymore. I'm now buiding up an Vortec headed 350 for the boat. I'm confused with this carb stuff lol.
I have had 2 smallblocks running on the 0411 after doing OBDII conversions and am working on 2 more (ones a factory L31 in a 1997 G1500). The second is my 1983 G20 van with its TPI 310. I have a 1998 C2500 harness that I am re-pinning to run a 0411 and I will be using a 4L80E. 310 TPI, 4L80E, 3.08 gears.
Add me to the list of those still working on this mod. I have the vortec, TPI, engine 75% done, (need to finish the heads) then installed the 88 GTA, but some health issues raised their ugly head and I had to delay the project for a few months but am starting once again. I need to get the wire harness yet but I believe I have everything else. At 67, I'm probably the old guy here but I'm trying to get this into Redbird soon. I've really enjoyed the thread. Thanks to you all. Dave
Add me to the list of those still working on this mod. I have the vortec, TPI, engine 75% done, (need to finish the heads) then installed the 88 GTA, but some health issues raised their ugly head and I had to delay the project for a few months but am starting once again. I need to get the wire harness yet but I believe I have everything else. At 67, I'm probably the old guy here but I'm trying to get this into Redbird soon. I've really enjoyed the thread. Thanks to you all. Dave
Right behind you at 61, and my 41 pickup/Ramjet/0411 is not finished either. Real close though.
Does anyone know about how many people have used this setup so far on any kind of vehicle?
Ron
Well you can count me in for doing this with a 305. It's been real slow going but I'll be finishing the short block this weekend. I pulled most of the vortec ignition components from a '97 Silverado. After removing the alignment dowls the vortec timing cover went on without a hitch. I plan on doing my own tuning as well as I picked up HPTuners not too long ago
If you come up with GM part numbers on some of them items that I dont have them listed. Could you send them to me please?
Also. Alot of this stuff you can get used if you dont mind used parts. Mine is about 50/50.
Except for my harness, I probably don't have 100.00 in the rest of the stuff.
Find a reasonable junk yard and become their best friend, and take off your on stuff so you get the nuts, bolts, etc., and it's cheaper.
Some blocks (like the TPI engines) will require some extra silicone to seal the Vortec timing cover. I recommend taking a very close look at the timing cover and face of the block before installation. My approach has been to start the engine without the front accessories installed to check for leaks. In this way you won't have to completely disassemble the front accessories if the timing cover does leak.
Scuzz, including my harness and a TPI intake(since I was TBI), I have about 1g in mine.. Then efilive.
After looking, most of mine is new stuff, wow. My dizzy, timing cover, vortec coil(which I didnt use), crank ring, ignition mod are all new. I later installed new o2 sensors. Then the fuel pump.
My cover bolts, crank sensor, balancer, maf(which is now removed), 2 ecms, harness, are used items.
Scuzz, including my harness and a TPI intake(since I was TBI), I have about 1g in mine.. Then efilive.
After looking, most of mine is new stuff, wow. My dizzy, timing cover, vortec coil(which I didnt use), crank ring, ignition mod are all new. I later installed new o2 sensors. Then the fuel pump.
My cover bolts, crank sensor, balancer, maf(which is now removed), 2 ecms, harness, are used items.
The tough part is parting with another 7-800 for tuning software.
If you come up with GM part numbers on some of them items that I dont have them listed. Could you send them to me please?
Also. Alot of this stuff you can get used if you dont mind used parts. Mine is about 50/50.
Dale,
Are you interest in part numbers for 305 engines or just the 350s? There's only a few differences (knock sensor comes to mind). Let me know.
Thanks,
Tony
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S10Wildside
This is worth repeating.
Some blocks (like the TPI engines) will require some extra silicone to seal the Vortec timing cover. I recommend taking a very close look at the timing cover and face of the block before installation. My approach has been to start the engine without the front accessories installed to check for leaks. In this way you won't have to completely disassemble the front accessories if the timing cover does leak.
S10,
I like you advice with this but I was wondering how you are supplying fuel for something like this? I see fuel line in some of the videos you've posted but I don't see where they go. Do you have a pump and tank setup off to the side which we just don't see or is there more to it than that? I ask because I should be close to getting my engine to this point in the near future.
Thanks,
Tony
Last edited by tpiselli; 07-24-2008 at 08:33 AM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Dale,
Are you interest in part numbers for 305 engines or just the 350s? There's only a few differences (knock sensor comes to mind). Let me know.
Thanks,
Tony
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Didnt think about 305's. But yea, if there are some differences, I'll happily post them on my site.
Are any of you guys running HP Tuner instead of EFI Live? If so any thoughs on how well it works for doing this project?
I have HPTuners and will be using it for this. I'm not at the point where I need it yet (I'm still putting my engine together). So far I've only usd itfor basic DTC scanning and trouble shooting (like turning off the rear O2s on my '02 Z28) as well as some data logging. Hopefully I'll have more time with it as I get closer to getting this project going.
hey s10wildside, im gearing up to get a hold of you to order my harness still $600? im not going to be doing my own tuning who was the guy that was tuning these for people?
Actually the knock sensor is the only thing I found different. Here are the numbers for a 5.0:
Knock sensor (5.0 liter Vortec), ACDelco part # 213325 or GM part # 10456287
Hope this helps,
Tony
S10,
I like you advice with this but I was wondering how you are supplying fuel for something like this? I see fuel line in some of the videos you've posted but I don't see where they go. Do you have a pump and tank setup off to the side which we just don't see or is there more to it than that? I ask because I should be close to getting my engine to this point in the near future.
Thanks,
Tony
There is a small fuel cell on the bottom of the stand, behind the engine. A high pressure Bosch fuel pump is mounted on the stand
hey s10wildside, im gearing up to get a hold of you to order my harness still $600? im not going to be doing my own tuning who was the guy that was tuning these for people?
The harness price has not changed. It may in the upcoming months...my costs are beginning to increase.
The tuner is no longer tuning. It was a step to get his priorities right...and I give him much credit for putting his family first. Your best bet is to find someone locally who can tune LS1 PCMs. I'm in Erie, PA. Where are you in PA?
im about 45mins. from state college if you would like to do the tune let me know now because if not then im not sure what i will do. really i would just need the pcm reworked so i could start my car and move it around a little when i work on it. i wont be ready for a full tune this year
Actually the knock sensor is the only thing I found different. Here are the numbers for a 5.0:
Knock sensor (5.0 liter Vortec), ACDelco part # 213325 or GM part # 10456287
Hope this helps,
Tony
Thank You. Added, along with edited a bit more of the info. If anyone else finds something they think needs to be added, let me know.
im about 45mins. from state college if you would like to do the tune let me know now because if not then im not sure what i will do. really i would just need the pcm reworked so i could start my car and move it around a little when i work on it. i wont be ready for a full tune this year
I will not be able to provide a tune. I'm avoiding mail order tunes. If I provide a tune and can't see the air/fuel ratio, I won't sleep well at night.
Has anyone successfully gotten one of these to work on a pre-86 motor? Im still trying to figure out how to get the crank trigger to work with an older block.
Has anyone successfully gotten one of these to work on a pre-86 motor? Im still trying to figure out how to get the crank trigger to work with an older block.
Yes, I have one on an 83 305. Just use a normal SBC single roller timing chain, the plastic vortec timing cover, and a Vortec 305/350 balancer. The hardest part is you will need to pull the 2 steel pins out of your block that are used to help position the stock tin cover.
I will not be able to provide a tune. I'm avoiding mail order tunes. If I provide a tune and can't see the air/fuel ratio, I won't sleep well at night.
so do you think i could get a mail order from pcmforless and have it work right till i get it to a tuner? i was going to go the way of no mass air or speed density since that seems the easiest choice and there will be a single turbo in the mix of all this. here is a some what picture of what my car will look like when its done.
Yes, I have one on an 83 305. Just use a normal SBC single roller timing chain, the plastic vortec timing cover, and a Vortec 305/350 balancer. The hardest part is you will need to pull the 2 steel pins out of your block that are used to help position the stock tin cover.
DOH! Server cut my post off.
I will also be using a retro-roller, which is my main concern. I will need to use a timing set with torrington bearings and a thrust button, and Im not sure how well the plastic cover will stand up to the thrust button, and if I can fit a timing set that has torrington bearings within the vortec cover. I guess I could brace the front of the cover off of the water pump and hopefully the cover stands up to the cam button. The cam button will have bearings as well, so hopefully it wont dig its way into the plastic.
Also, do you have to shorten the balancer hub as well? I think the reluctor moves it a little further forward, no?
the vortec balancer is already shorter by the required amount for a standard chain, but it probably depends on what torrington bearing chain you go with.
I thought you were saying the 4x crank got the coil packs. UGH. Will have to see what this program says when it comes in.
Sounds pretty responsive too! 
