TPI OBDII - Thoughts/Opinions - Page 5 - TPI - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards

Mkos1980 · 01-31-2007, 06:32 PM

First Pic is og crank sensor and second is reluctor ring.

Justin89Formy · 01-31-2007, 07:03 PM

I would double check to make sure the timing cover survived the trip....that plastic + the cold weather had me worried

Mkos1980 · 01-31-2007, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Justin89Formy

I would double check to make sure the timing cover survived the trip....that plastic + the cold weather had me worried

I'm sure it takes more of a beating on my dads 98 Z71 when its 5* outside now lol

vernw · 01-31-2007, 11:25 PM

Keep the pics and info coming!

Plastic timing cover has me worried, I use a billet cover and cam button....

Mkos1980 · 02-01-2007, 07:02 AM

cam button for what?

vernw · 02-01-2007, 09:02 AM

I'm using an older 2 pc. RMS block and retro fit hydraulic roller cam with a Torrington bearing and a cam button/thrust plate timing chain cover to keep the cam in place and not let it "walk".

I would hope that any timing cover that works on the L98 type motors, including my current one, would also work with this conversion. Is there any reason to doubt this assumption?

jwscab · 02-01-2007, 09:56 AM

an older cover would work, if you machined/modified it to fit the crank sensor. Thats the reason the vortec cover is needed, it properly locates the sensor in relation to the reluctor ring. You could also make your own reluctor ring and fab a pick-up mount externally.

vernw · 02-01-2007, 10:38 AM

I haven't got the foggiest idea how to go about doing any of that or getting it done. Unfortunately, without more detailed info, or data from someone who has done it or could help me out in doing it, that might make a 411 conversion pretty much impossible for someone like me...

Mkos1980 · 02-01-2007, 03:19 PM

If the plastic timing cover can hold up tot he cam button, then its easy. Or you can locate a thin piece of steel to the inside of the cover to avoid the button wearing out the plastic. If you can run an LT1 cast cover somehow, you can use that and an LT1 sensor from a 96-97 F body

scuzz · 02-01-2007, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fast355

Thats because it is.

Who had the first one? I did mine in June 06, 1994 G10, TPI on the TBI 305 longblock, 1995 4L60E transmission, 1998 Express Van 305 PCM and harness.

I started looking about April or May, and got parts together about June, but I still don't have my truck finished.
It is wired, thanks to S10 WIldside, PCM flashed, but back problems have slowed progress, and now it's tax season and I've got to work till spring so I can finish up this spring.
I need to mount battery, put dash and steering column back in, and gas filler hose on the 41 pickup and it will be ready to fire up.
Maybe I can catch up with you guys this summer.
Thanks for all the valuable input.
Ron

Mkos1980 · 02-05-2007, 10:27 AM

Well today was a test. People always complain that the car runs poor when cold, even if its tuned with a chip. Well I went to prove all that the 411 runs flawless when cold. This morning in Cleveland it was -6* Degrees with a windchill of -24* Car fired RIGHT up and idles smoothly. Although there was salt on the roads it was dry so I drove around the block. No hesitation, no bogging NO NOTHING.

Fast355 · 02-05-2007, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mkos1980

Well today was a test. People always complain that the car runs poor when cold, even if its tuned with a chip. Well I went to prove all that the 411 runs flawless when cold. This morning in Cleveland it was -6* Degrees with a windchill of -24* Car fired RIGHT up and idles smoothly. Although there was salt on the roads it was dry so I drove around the block. No hesitation, no bogging NO NOTHING.

Yes

Even the factory TBI/TPI computer can run like that.

Is this a custom tuning attemp, or are you still running the Vortec 350 Express tune?
----------

Quote:

Originally Posted by vernw

I haven't got the foggiest idea how to go about doing any of that or getting it done. Unfortunately, without more detailed info, or data from someone who has done it or could help me out in doing it, that might make a 411 conversion pretty much impossible for someone like me...

Vernw,

Where do you live near dallas?

Justin89Formy · 02-05-2007, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mkos1980

Well today was a test. People always complain that the car runs poor when cold, even if its tuned with a chip. Well I went to prove all that the 411 runs flawless when cold. This morning in Cleveland it was -6* Degrees with a windchill of -24* Car fired RIGHT up and idles smoothly. Although there was salt on the roads it was dry so I drove around the block. No hesitation, no bogging NO NOTHING.

perfect

vernw · 02-05-2007, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fast355

Vernw,

Where do you live near dallas?

I live and work in Plano. How 'bout you?

Fast355 · 02-05-2007, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vernw

I live and work in Plano. How 'bout you?

North of Arlington and just west of Fort Worth in the city of Hurst and work in Grapevine.

vernw · 02-05-2007, 03:41 PM

Hmmm.... I thought Hurst was on the NE corner of FTW. Regardless, that's definitely close enough for me to make a trip over that way in a couple of weeks or so and be able to see one of these conversions before deciding whether or not to try one myself. At least I assume that's why you asked....

Our car club (NTTGA.net) meets in Grapevine the 2nd Saturday of each month at the Spring Creek BBQ at Main and 121 in Grapevine, too. If I decide to go this route, might be nice t have a local source to call if I run into questions while doing the conversion, too.

Fast355 · 02-05-2007, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vernw

Hmmm.... I thought Hurst was on the NE corner of FTW. Regardless, that's definitely close enough for me to make a trip over that way in a couple of weeks or so and be able to see one of these conversions before deciding whether or not to try one myself. At least I assume that's why you asked....

Our car club (NTTGA.net) meets in Grapevine the 2nd Saturday of each month at the Spring Creek BBQ at Main and 121 in Grapevine, too. If I decide to go this route, might be nice t have a local source to call if I run into questions while doing the conversion, too.

It is in the Northeast part of Tarrant county, just not part of Fort Worth.

I no longer own the conversion. I was able to make it run very well though and could repeat the procedures again.

I asked in case you needed help with the conversion, if you started it and could not finish it.

vernw · 02-05-2007, 09:17 PM

Thanks so much for that offer! If the situation gets tense, I'll defintiely holler at ya - again, THANKS!!!!!

S10Wildside · 02-10-2007, 06:37 AM

Today I'm going to begin taking measurements and start building the harness for the Willys. I'm pretty excited about this conversion. It's a beautiful car and I don't see too many fuel injected project cars around here. When I go to local car shows, almost everyone has a carburetor.

scuzz · 02-10-2007, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by S10Wildside

Today I'm going to begin taking measurements and start building the harness for the Willys. I'm pretty excited about this conversion. It's a beautiful car and I don't see too many fuel injected project cars around here. When I go to local car shows, almost everyone has a carburetor.

That's what got me started using TPI stuff in my streetrods. Carbs are HOHUM, since everyone has one on their streetrod, because they are easy to install in an old car.
OBDI and OBDII is really a challenge to install from scratch, but in the long run, they are unique, better, and looks more hi-tech.
When gas gets to where it evaporates in their fuel bowl, maybe fuel injection won't look so bad.
Ron

Mkos1980 · 02-10-2007, 10:22 PM

Heres the pics of the Heavy Duty Timing Single Roller Chain with billet crank gear, The pic of the Cam gear. notice the indent of the GM logo and part number on the right. That part number reads 12552129 (From GM Parts Direct it reads "DESCRIPTION: SPROCKET-
Single roller heavy-duty type sprocket for use with the ZZ design 350 High-Output V8 engine."

Last pic is of the Taylor Spiral Pro wires. These parts will be installed on Justins Car.

Justin89Formy · 02-11-2007, 02:09 AM

get that cub cadet crap outta the way!

Lookin good, cant wait!

S10Wildside · 02-11-2007, 02:22 PM

For anyone who wants to do their own harness work, there are many ways to go about fused protection. If not using the 3rd gen fuse block...or not installing in a 3rd gen, you can use your own fuse block.

Here's how I chose to handle the Willys harness. Now this Willys has no room behind the dash for a PCM or additional fuse block. The owner chose to mount the PCM and fuel injection fuse block behind the passenger seat. It's completely hidden, but very accessible. The fuse block will be mounted just above the PCM. Notice the S-10 PCM bracket we're going to use. I did not have to use so many fuses, but should there be future trouble, identifying a blown fuse will definitely help to diagnose the problem. The factory LS1 harness is broken down in a very similar way.

Think it through. Wiring takes a long time. I've easily got over an hour into this fuse block.

Look intimidating? Here's a less intimidating view.

Each ignition relay provides ignition power to one of the 4-fuse fuse blocks. To provide battery and ignition power to the harness, we'll run two 10 gauge wires to the battery and one 18 gauge wire to any ignition source with power in key on and crank. Very simple.

This vehicle has no park/neutral indicator switch, so I'm working with the neutral safety switch and a relay to provide the necessary ground signal to the PCM when the vehicle is in park/neutral.

The Willys owner and I are about 4 hours into the construction of the 411 harness. In a week or so we'll be installing it in his car. Fortunately he lives just down the road from me, so we're going to leave the harness unterminated at the engine. Everything is extra long so that we can sneek the harness under the miniram, then install the connectors to make for a very clean installation.

I'm not sure how useful this information is for those reading this thread, but I figured there were more than 3rd gen owners reading this.

clippjr8 · 02-11-2007, 07:36 PM

SHOW OFF! LOL Very nice work. This is why I only deal with you.

Anniversary-Z-man · 02-12-2007, 07:26 PM

WOW...you really do some excellent, clean, pro work! VERY impressive!
If I end up going this route you'll be hearing from me.

Thanks for all the info everyone...I'm learning ALOT...this thread should definitely be stickied! Lots of great info!

- Joel

S10Wildside · 02-12-2007, 09:02 PM

Thanks guys. What I really want people to get out of this is that there are more ignition power circuits in the 411 harness than in the TPI harness...and that there are different ways of handling it. I'm hoping this takes some of the mystery out of the wiring and brings more clarity to this system.

We've not yet found any reason not to use the factory 3rd gen fuse block. It has...

ECM ignition power
bank 1 injectors ignition power
bank 2 injectors ignition power
fan relay ignition power
emissions ignition power

There are many ignition power sources to work with.

80Sierra · 02-14-2007, 10:06 PM

This is very interesting stuff!

How different are these ECMs from a newer 5.3 truck engine? I'm considering installing a 5.3L into my truck to replace the TPI 5.7 sometime in the future (thinking next winter at the earliest), but I really like the idea of sequential injection, and running both MAF and MAP on my TPI setup. Could a guy build a harness to service the 5.7, then use it on the 5.3L later on? The 5.3L I'd be purchasing is from a 2000 Chevy 1/2 ton, and has a throttle cable.

And S10Wildside, where did you find that relay / fuse block? That thing is real slick! I integreated my TPI stuff into my factory 1980 fuse block (80 GMC 1 ton 4x4), but I get the feeling I may need to add a few more fuses than I've got...