Craig Moates

On the double roller timing chain fitment, yes, that's correct.

Machine a shim that goes between the timing gear and the reluctor. 0.150" thick. That will space it off so the chain doesn't grind the reluctor up.

Don't make it too thick, or the timing cover will get noisy for a while during the 'break-in' and then it could crack or start to leak.

Then you can back-cut the balancer where it mates up. That way your belts will line up. You could probably get away without this step, but you might as well get it right. Even 1/8" will make the difference.

Justin89Formy

just wanted to pipe in again that I just took my car 2341 miles on the power tour, and it never skipped a beat!! It idled dead on 750rpms for prob about 5 hours in traffic, never went over 200* (except when my cheap radiator cap started leaking), got 24mpg with the air on, never stalled...it was perfect.

This swap is everything that the 165 and 730s arent lol

Mkos1980

Craig Moates

Sweet. Nice to put some miles on it.

After I cleaned up the VE tune on mine a little, I loaned it out for about a month to a good friend. He put about 2500 miles and a new transmission into it, man that made a difference! That and a torque converter (2400 vigilante multidisc).

It's got a minor oil leak, but that's no biggie. Flat top 383 with E-Tec 200 heads put down 355 to the wheels consistently on a 2nd gear pull. With the balloon tires (99 Tahoe), it was getting pretty scary on the 3rd gear pulls (usually 10% or so higher results without lockup) with that big ole one-wheeled wonder going about 150 mph, and the power numbers fell off considerably (repeatedly). I'm sure it was just the insanity of those tires binding up at the roller. Everyone was cringing at the time.

Once we swap over with some 4.10s and a posi, we'll test again. Maybe throw some low-pro Impala rims on there (22s baby!) and spin it up again. I think it has 375 in there for the wheels, easy.

Pretty mild cam actually (224/230, 0.560/0.570 lift), and it idles like a kitten (very loud purr motor) at about 750. Likes 850-900 a little better though.

I was able to match up pretty well with a 1500 truck, set up with a 408 LS1 built and tuned, actually put about half a trucklength on him repeatedly from anything under 40 mph starting point. First and second gear were mine. But that 3rd gear nosedive showed up on the street as well, and the LS1 just left me (gently) each time.

Although, I'm really happy with my 730 ECU in the 87 T/A.

Not trying to get off topic, just saying that I'm happy with the 0411 conversion on my 99 Tahoe/Vortec. Strong motor helps reinforce that joy.

MattODoom

Nice work guys, this looks to be a great option for keeping our Gen I's in with the current wave of technology and efficiency.

That said, the harness is still way out of my pricerange

'749 swap time

Dale

So that 24mpg is highway and intown? What other stuff do you have done?

Justin89Formy

24mpg highway. I was getting 26-27mpg with the air off....it was a pretty flat trip! I have a looot of stuff done to the car, it would be a shorter list of whats not done lol.

mikesz1984

i was wondering, if it would be easier to buy all of this stuff now and convert the car with the motor out of it( i pulled motor to paint under the hood and change heads, cam and intake, install t56) or is it just as easy to do it later with the motor in place. Also does anybody know if the distributor clears the first injections intake.

WinnipegGTA

Anyone figure out how to make this work with the LT1-LT4's yet? The 96-97s would be easy id think if it wasn't for the cam sensor(Opti)? Trying to sell the idea to a buddy of mine with a hopped up LT1.

elcamin0_77us

Thinking outloud here. Use the LT1 timing cover with a crank sensor. Add the crank reluctor wheel. Plug the hole in the timing cover for the opti and remove the opti. Run a electrict water pump. As far as the cam, send the intake off to LT1Intake.com and have it machined for a Rear mounted Dizzy.

Bill

WinnipegGTA

OBD2 LT1's have all the needed parts just the Opti Signal is different. Would like to stay away from the dizzy if at all possible.

elcamin0_77us

The problem is that the only other ECM/PCM/BCM that I know of besides the 5081 that can use the signal from the Opti is the GM MPFI 4. Painless was looking at adding a tuning option the thier Perfect system. That was a year ago. I'm not sure if they've done it or not. The perfect system uses the MPFI 4. The 5081 PCM is still a nice little unit. The main problem with the LT1's are the Optis. I've heard of owners having to replace them on a regular bases.

Bill

Mkos1980

what ecm does the brand new 07-08 silverados run with the base 4.3L V6. Those still use the distributor. Any chance of even more advance stuff?

elcamin0_77us

Did a search on Rockauto.com It uses a 12589462


Bill

S10Wildside

Without a doubt, it's easier to do the wiring with the harness out.

elcamin0_77us

EGR Notes:

I checked today at my local Parts Dealer, the Express EGR is 4 inches tall which means it won't fit standing up in the 3 1/4 inch space between the base and plentium.

The conclusion: Using a piece of angle iron, take the Gasket from the orig. EGR and scribe it onto one half. Using a gasket from the Express Van scribe an outline of it on the other side of the angle iron. Drill out the bolt holes on both sides. Then drill out the port holes. Using steel tubing, connect the port holes from one side to the other and weld in place. When drilling the port holes, they should be enlarged to accommodate the size of the tubing required.

Using an adapter like this will allow the EGR Valve to be mounted in the vertical position, maintaining the EGR's ability to function.

Dale

thats what I was thinking camino. Main thing would be the un-levelness of the base intake, and the curves around the mount. Seems like alot of work.

1989GTATransAm

My understanding with the egr is the signal to energize it from the 411 computer. Not the egr itself. You can use the stock 3rd gen egr.

elcamin0_77us

Don't hold me to this, but next week I'll try to build a mock adapter without the tubes to see if it will fit. I need to raid a junk yard anyway for some parts.

Bill

elcamin0_77us

The 0441 uses a Linear Electronic EGR Valve Instead of the Port Vacuum Style.

Here is a good description of it:

Linear electronic EGR valves (early 1990s & up). Another type of electronic EGR valve is the "linear" EGR valve. This type uses a small computer-controlled stepper motor to open and close the EGR valve instead of vacuum. The advantage of this approach is that the EGR valve operates totally independent of engine vacuum. It is electrically operated and can be opened in various increments depending on what the engine control module determines the engine needs at any given moment in time. GM started using this type of valve on many of its engines in 1992. Linear EGR valves may also be equipped with an EGR valve position sensor (EVP) to keep the computer informed about what the EGR valve is doing. The EVP sensor also helps with self-diagnostics because the computer looks for an indication of movement from the sensor when the it commands the EGR valve to open or close. The sensor works like a throttle position sensor and changes resistance. The voltage signal typically varies from 0.3 (closed) to 5 volts (open).

The TPI's used this type of EGR from what I can Tell:

Negative backpressure EGR valves (1973 & up). The negative backpressure type of EGR valve reacts in the same way, except that it reacts to negative or decreasing pressure changes in the exhaust system to regulate EGR action. A drop in backpressure occurs when there is less load on the engine. This causes the backpressure diaphragm to open a bleed hole and reduce EGR flow. It's the same principle as with the positive type except that the control function occurs when backpressure goes down instead of up.

This information is from Larry Carley, a technical writer for several of the Professional Magazines.

As you can see the 0441 cannot properly control the Stock ThirdGen EGR.

The EGR for the Express Van has a connector with 5 pins and No Vacuum ports. The ThirdGen uses a EGR with 1 pin and 1 Vacuum Port.

Without looking at the wiring diagrams and Technical Info, I don't remember what the wire was for. I'll have to look it up.

Bill

S10Wildside

Great info on the linear EGR valve!

The TPI EGR valve is opened and closed by vacuum controlled by the EGR solenoid. It has two wires (gray and pink/black). The MAF systems have a temperature switch (??) in the base of the EGR that uses one green wire. It had nothing to do with routing vacuum though.

Dale

Great, please post pictures if you do. And if it works, you more then likely got a buyer.

1989GTATransAm

Thanks Bill for the excellant information on the EGR's. So if one could fit a linear EGR the 411 computer would work?

Anniversary-Z-man

Just a quick note about the ignition coil....if you're like me and already have an aftermarket coil like an MSD Blaster, you can still use that coil. I bought the MSD 8231 vortec coil thinking my Blaster wouldn't work, but I reviewed the diagram that came with it and it has the same specs as the MSD blaster for our Fbodies...the only difference is the connector (the vortec one has an actual connector)....I also called MSD tech just to verify this information, he said the coils are the same....hopefully you can save $50 like me and re-use your's.

- Joel

Justin89Formy

can MSD supply you with the pigtail you'll need?

Mkos1980

Whats all the hype about getting the egr working? Does it really need to be working? If you have a visual and so forth, why not just keep it all hooked up with a pigtail not connected. Nobody will know the differance, you'll still pass emmisions and its less to worry about.

elcamin0_77us

Ok Guys, I've got two Choices in making the adapter. I can make it out of steel or I can make it out of aluminum. Making it out of aluminum will allow easier bending of the tubing since I'll have to use 3/4in tubing. I will be able to get the tubes welded-in once school starts. Whats ya's opinion?

Bill