What about the leaves under the relays, do they have a part number?

Just kidding. Your relays are different than mine are on my 86 IROC. But then agian, you have a 88GTA.

I'm pretty sure that yours being a IROC and his being a GTA has nothing to do with the difference in relays, its the years that matter. 85-87 TPI uses one type(square) and 88-92 TPI uses the 2 oval, 1 square type.

Yup. Relays, I agree 100%. They all do the same thing. I should of made myself clear. My IROC has 3 square connectors as to where Ward has 1 square and 2 oval.

Yeah, I know it's a mess - the car has been parked for a while and I'm finally working on getting it road legal again. I cleaned out those leaves today, and found a dead praying mantis in there as well

I'm the original owner of a 1987 IROC, 5.7 TPI (bought it new at the end of 1986), and my relays are in the same order as yours (no one swapped them). MAF power is next to the engine, Fuel pump center, and Burn off closest to the fender.

Your the original owner, and you still got her? You must lover her lots.

Yep I probably could have had a Lexus for all the repairs I put into this baby over 23 years, but there's lots of very good memories as well.

Good for you bro. I remember when I threw piston rod #5 while driving to work. It started with a little knocking sound, then it advanced to a loud banging sound until the block just froze. 7 years later, she woke up with a 350. But now I need a new tranny. My IROC only has 1st gear and 3rd. Bummer.

That's too bad about your tranny. Unless you have specialized tools it's going to be expensive. My car just has a lot of little things (hatch motor, weather stripping, worn upholstery, paint etc.) as well as a code 33 which is why I was checking the forum. I think the MAF power relay just came unseated from driving on a rough road (the locking portion is cracked). Re-seating the relay seemed to work however I decided to replace it with a new GP MR22 from AutoZone (listed in an earlier post as being a direct replacement part) and had a solid check engine light so they're probably not the same part (will most likely get one from GM).

I had a solid code 33. Here's what I did to get rid of it. Take off the MAF Sensor and seperate it from the dual intake duct and the spring like tube that connects into the throttlebody. Now under the MAF there should be 5 pins. Get a dremel and clean off the the pins. Then just reconnect and drive on. Worked for me. If it doesnt help, let me know. I got a diagram to troubleshoot the MAF.

Definitely get the GM one. I went through 3 of the Autozone ones without any luck. The GM one fixed the problem.

To check if the MAF Senser is bad, follow this thread that I made. I found these troubleshoot from the net. http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tp...uble-code.html (MAF 33 trouble code troubleshoot)

Thanks for all the suggestions, everyone at the forum are always very helpful. There is no code as long as the MAF power relay is not loose, or wet from rain. I just want to replace it because the locking mechanism which holds the cable in is broken. Unfortunately the AutoZone relay is just not the right part.

Your runs in the same order as who? Ward's relays: fuel pump, MAF power, burnoff, which is the same as my 87 GTA.

Chevy86 IROC-Z, post #39

Yes, sorry, I saw that after I posted.

I don't think its really important what the order is, as long as you(owner) know what each relay is for! The reason for the difference in the relay order could due too the fact that the Camaro and Firebird were built in different factory's. And even with the TPI engines, Firebirds have their alts and AC compressor reversed compared to the Camaros.

That's interesting, I didn't know that the alternators and AC compressor positions were reversed from Firebird to Camaro.

They aren't.

The only change in locations came from the switch between v-belts & the serpentine belt. Then the AC compressor & alternator swapped positions.

Different IROC-Z years also had the AC and Alternators switched around (belts and serpentine system).

So, regardless if its a Caramo or Firebird, if your running the 4 belt system, Alt is on passenger side and the AC is on driver side.

And when running with the single serpentine belt setup, Alt is NOW on the driver side and the AC is on the passenger side.

Is my understanding of this correct?

Correct -- 82-87 had v-belts, 88-92 had serpentine, on both camaro and firebird.

Thanks Ward for clearing that up for me!

Actually it was a set of 3 v belts and a flat belt. Alt uses flat belt, power steering pump, ac and air pump use a v belt.

My 87 GTA 5.7 TPI......

1 serpentine belt- Alt, water, crank
1 V belt- Crank, water, power steer, AC
1 V belt- Crank, power steer
1 V belt- Water, smog pump

Yep. Stock setup. Mine is all that minus 1 v-belt & the smog pump (its on the floor now)

This is a great thread. Thanks for all of the info guys.

I just read this post and have had the same issue with code 36 maff burnoff relay. I bought the MR22 and the MR82 from autozone and they both are rectangular shapped. I searched and the only place i found the oval shaped maff burnoff relay and maf power relay is from the GM dealer part number 14089936 for $25. I bought it today and put it in and bingo. check engine light no longer on. Just wanted to let everyone know, If you got a code 36, go to the GM dealer and spend the $25 and save alot of time and money.

I was just wondering soileaujp, did you clear the codes by disconnecting the battery before you installed the new relay, did you know if it was an intermittent code? Did you just plug the relay in and the light turned off? I just bought the same relay from GM today and it had made in china stamped on the top of it... not the diagram that the factory stock ones had, how about yours?

I cleared the codes by disconnecting the battery and re-installed the relay that was in there when the code showed up. I started it up a couple of times and the SES light did not come back on. I'm just beginning to wonder if its only a matter of time before the code 36 comes back.

Here is what happened from start to finish. hope this helps anyone who has had this issue.
1. started getting the check engine light. Code 36. The light stayed on constantly. after a few weeks of trouble shooting the issue, I disconected battery to reset it but it came right back on.
2. tried to find maf burnoff relay at autozone. They don't sell the oval relay PN 14089936. The relays they have are the rectangular 5 pin PN MR22/MR82
3. I then tracked down the right relay at GM PN 14089936 after a week of trying to find the right part number. GM also showed me that the Maf Power Relay and the Burnoff relay is listed as the same part number and are interchangeable according the the dealership service center.
4. I put in on and then started the car and the light never came back on. It is an easy fix with just buying the appropriate relay from GM.

The relay has the diagram on it. It doesnt say made in china although i am sure it was. My car sometimes would hesitate when cruising or when getting on the gas when engine was cold. Problem solved when i replaced the relay and light still off. Car running smooth like it should. On my 88 Iroc, the order of the relays from left to right goes as follows.

Left: fuel relay (rectangular shaped)
middle: Maf Power relay (oval shaped)
right: Maf Burnoff relay (oval shapped)

Hope this helps.

i would be very careful posting this. If there is someone new to 3rd gens or just recently bought a thirdgen, this can certainly be a nightmare. Instead, you should post the colors of the wires and the corresponding PN of the relay. When I changed my relays, I did the same thing that someone else posted. Come to find out that ALL 3 relays were switched around (middle, left, right). So I whipped out the the Haynes manual and studied the wire diagram and got everything all straightened out. But this was with my 86 which all relays are squared.

It might be easier for the folks with the older style square relays to splice in the oval connectors and use the oval relays as they are the same part number.

Well I got a diagram put away just in case I run into the issue again. I got all the pn"s for different relay (squared) just in case some get discontinued. My bigger plan is to cut and replace the wires that are exposed just under the connectors.

so helpful! I keep getting MAF burnoff code and I replaced both relays with the same part and it's driving me mad.

Just out of curiosity, but can someone with more knowledge than I tell me why GM now uses the same relay for the MAF power/burn off when they use to be different. thanks

It's easier to repair, people will not get the relays mixed up if they're both the same.

Also, GM also used that same relay for other things like the cooling fans, and it was used in a lot of different cars, not just f-bodies, it was cheaper for them to produce one multi purpose relay than four or five different ones.

I looked under the hood of my Iroc and low and behold it has the 14089936 relay for both MAF power and burnoff. They must have been replaced before I got the car back in '02. Learn something new everyday. lol

The PO must of had switched them out when Gm was producing those relays. IIRC, the MAF Relay had a resistor across the prongs, while the other relay didnt. The MAJOR differnce is that the FP relay only has 4 wires while the others have 5. I could be wrong. I dont remember off the top of my head though.

Just a quick side comment, I dont remember if I said this all ready... if you buy a relay from Autozone and your gut tells you, uh is this a bad relay still? take it back and get another. I bought two new relays from them and one was 100% doa from the factory.

I bought a MAF Burn-off, MAF Sensor Relay, and FP Relay from AZ. Neither was bad. You may of had gotten a bad batch which was shipped from the factory to AutoZone. Either way,good to hear you got yours going.

thanks, I miss my iroc, can't wait to build another, thinking L92. Loooove that engine in my truck. I miss this place

Is it possible to get the small pins that go inside the connecter to the relay

As in buy new pins?

If your careful you can expand the factory connector, slide the outer wire casing into the connector where its supposed to be and gently recrimp it all back together.

Or you can extract the pins from the connector housing, heat up the crimped area with a lighter to burn the plastic inside the crimp, and then gently pull the wire away from the pin. Then to reinstall the pin to the wire, open the crimped connector, slide in the stripped clean wire and crimp. To be sure that there is a solid bond and connectivity, solder the crimped spot for a superior connection.