I know this is a very high opinion subject but I need some insight on it. I am in the process of porting the factory heads and intake system. I have put in K/N filters and cut out bottom of airbox. Also put in adjustable fuel regulator and air foil (TPIS). I have been watching the board for sometime but I am unsure on what camshaft is best for me. If you have any pointers on what to choose it would be appreciated.

Kind of depends on personal preference.
Do you want it to sound good (bloop bloop bloop) and be a turd?
Or do you want to actually make power with it?

I want usable power without computer error but don't want to get to nuts. I would like to go nuts but money not avaliable at this time.

my camshaft makes great power and acts like stock. It's specifically made for TPI.



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*I do custom performance mods on Edlebrock Performer carburetors (dualplane intake mods in the works),
White 1986 Irocz, 305 with iron #416 heads,
383 with aluminum TFS heads,
Edlebrock Performer-RPM intake and Performer #1407 carburetor, +110hp shot of crack, 700R-4 tranny, Vigilante 2400 lockup converter, 3.25:1 Ford 9" rear, Mcreary Road-Stars, SLP-stainless 1.75" shortie headers & Y-pipe, single 3" Borla exhaust, Linginfelter-TPI camshaft part number 74216 pulls 17" vacuum solid. Cam specs 213/219 @.050 114-LSA, sometimes advertised at 216/219 @.050 112-LSA .462/.470 lift @1.5:1 ratio. Using Harland Sharp 1.65:1 roller rockers. MSD-6AL, billet distributor, multi-retard, blaster-3 coil, and RPM switch. SouthSide machine subframe connectors, SSM lift-bars, Moroso 4" underdrive crank pulley.

N/A runs 10.9 @124,
Crack-runs 10.3 @135
haven't run at track since Oct-99

Check out comp cams line of Computer cams for the TPI in one of their catalogs at any Autoparts store. I have one from them and they all very small overlap and high lobe seperation to be computer friendly.

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L98 w/ ATI ProCharger P600B 9psi, 2 core intercooler. (New L98 coming soon)
Pro-Built Stage 3 700-R4 w/ Continental 2400 stall TC
C5 wheels and tires.

92 Firebird Convertible- L03, 700-R4
Bone Stock
Me, my car and I
"Speed kills but it makes me feel alive" - White Zombie
Crazy street-racing idiot member of the All-Powerful Nor-Cal crew.

I will probably be purchasing one of the TPI Lingenfelter cams pretty soon, they look to be the best.

Now, this is just my opinion, but you shouldn't do a cam change unless you have complete exhaust mods. I mean headers and a good, 3" cat back, a high flow cat or gutted cat is optional, but always helpful. The factory exhaust is SO restrictive. There is probably as much power robbed there as there is in the small cams. I just got done doing a cam swap, and trust me, it is a HUGE job. Also, if you have tricked out exhaust, you will be able to get a larger cam and do more for your car in the long run.

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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission
Borg Warner 7.75" 9 Bolt Rear End

Current Mods: LT4 Hot Cam, Comp Cams 1.52:1 Roller Rocker Arms, Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip, Accel Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, 8.8mm Wires, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET (w/o LT4 cam): 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)

7.5" 10 Bolt with 3.42s soon to come!

Dan is right, you should do the exhaust mods first.
If you add a long duration camshaft to an engine without headers, the reversion in the intake will be horrible.
On the other hand, if you add a good set of headers at the same time as the cam change, and also port your heads, you could gain around 80hp at once. If you go with a mild cam like I run, then the required tuning will be minimal.

How would the ZZ4 cam work with his combo and headers? I would like to swap the heads but it doesn't look like the funds are there. I would also like to stock with the stock TPI port matched.

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87 Formula 350 13.94@96.67
98 Z28 1LE 13.15@107.59
1LE Owners Association

I ran a 265 deh with my 305 sounds and runs great

my bad its a comp cam power band is 3k-6k