TPITuned Port Injection discussion and questions. LB9 and L98 tech, porting, tuning, and bolt-on aftermarket products.
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I'm rebuilding my nearly dead 350 TPI (Firebird Formula '88 350 TPI - 220HP 330 Torque) . I want to use only new parts so that my engine will live for another couple of years. My target is to make 300-350 HP street car.
What I already ordered are:
I was wondering if this cam will fit: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-S...QQcmdZViewItem
and which rocker arms, lifters, pushrods, timing chain (and gear set), ballancer, cam bearings should i buy?? (summit or ebay links are )
Is there any part will i need and forgot to order ??
Please help because I'm from Poland and it takes a while to get parts from US to Europe.
First of all let me say that your 383 decision is a good one. I went through my L98 a couple years back and spent more having my stock crank and rods reconditioned with new pistions. I just freshened up the bottom end a few months ago and couldn't see replacing all that. It's sort of a catch 22.
Now I'm going to be the devil's advocate and bring up a touchy subject. I noticed you didn't have a intake change on your list. My experiance with the 350 is the LTR TPI is a restriction. On a 383 it's gonna be worse. I think you'll have a tire smokin setup that'll run out of air at 4500+. I would definatly recommend a HSR or other simular intake. Of coures, you could add it later if you wish and I think you'll want it.
You were asking about the cam and what you do in the future is a factor. If you cam it for the LTR then it may not be best for the HSR. I'm running 212/218 and it was perfect for the 350 with the TPI. It's really too small for the 350/HSR and would be waaay to small for a 383/HSR. Sorry to open up this subject but it's one worth considering. I would never go back to the LTR, even aftermarket ones.
True, you have to be carefull with the Firebird's hood profile. Other's have said it will work but I have a Camaro and had to trim the underside bracing a bit. I still have the insulation under my hood and it has "witness" lines on it from the manifold. I'll defer to others with Firebirds on this one.
The last cam is a bit closer in my opinion. 220/230 + or -. 112 LCA. May end up wanting a mild stall for auto's and 3.20 + gearing.
Around 220 intake and 230 exhaust with 112 LCA. And yes the Edelbrock is better than stock TPI in my opinion. No personal experiance though. You may want to look at;
The ZZ4 cam the same cam I have in my car and got it from the same guys. However I would not get the cam from RPD because they sold me a defective cam and didn't take responsibility for it. So if you still want to get that cam don't get it from them.
Around 220 intake and 230 exhaust with 112 LCA. And yes the Edelbrock is better than stock TPI in my opinion. No personal experiance though. You may want to look at;
There's a lot of info regarding runner length, ID, flow potential etc. Maybe someone with LTR experiance will chime in here.
what does LTR stands for ?? i only know what HSR is
pzdr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cambridge205
The ZZ4 cam the same cam I have in my car and got it from the same guys. However I would not get the cam from RPD because they sold me a defective cam and didn't take responsibility for it. So if you still want to get that cam don't get it from them.
propably ill take something more power giveing
Quote:
Does Poland have strict emission laws?
we do but as it is US car no body care about it, it is to exotic for ordinary citizen so it is easy to pass the car condition control
Last edited by WASyL; 01-22-2008 at 01:48 PM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
The Comp Cams XE 276/282 is the exact cam I would choose for 383/HSR for street/strip use. I'd also recommend a 3.27+ rear gear ratio. The other components look fine too.
As far as a balancer is concerned I'm using the stock one but would recommend and aftermarket one but I will defer to others who have experiance with them.
Good luck it looks like you're on the right track.
I am refering to the rear axel ratio. When I've made modifications to increase an engines horse power there's always a trade off. More horse power comes at the upper RPM ranges and therefore reduce low RPM power. So other things like transmission torque converter stall, rear end gear ratio and the like have to be considered. It's all part of a total package or combination.
ok, now i get it i'm just focused on engine, after rebuilding whole engine i'll change stall, driveshaft and use new rear axle then i'll decide about rear gear ratio. as for gear box i have 700r4 fully rebuilded (only 1k miles done) with B&M transpak
I think that the heads are way too small, only 160cc runners and the 60cc chambers on a 383 will send you fairly high for CR. I would get a set of heads with at least 195cc runners. Look at the Trick Flow, Patriot Performance or AFR.
And as stated above by others the cam is too small. I have a 395 with a 224/230 duration cam and that cam is too small for me. I would run at least my size cam in your 383.
I think that the heads are way too small, only 160cc runners and the 60cc chambers on a 383 will send you fairly high for CR. I would get a set of heads with at least 195cc runners. Look at the Trick Flow, Patriot Performance or AFR.
Yes I know but heads are allready ordered and shipped to me so ill have to use those and mayby someday ill change them
Quote:
And as stated above by others the cam is too small. I have a 395 with a 224/230 duration cam and that cam is too small for me. I would run at least my size cam in your 383.
You can't use the stock balancer on a 383 unless it has been internally balanced. You are using a different crank, so it will have a different balance. A 400 balancer is what is typically used.
immo
The ebay ad said it comes with one.
You can't use the stock balancer on a 383 unless it has been internally balanced. You are using a different crank, so it will have a different balance. A 400 balancer is what is typically used.
immo
The ebay ad said it comes with one.
ok, good to know and i actualy forgot that one is included with kit