Got pressure at the rails, spark, vats security light goes out before cranking, cranks fine will fire on ether, thought coolant sensor, dist sensor, maf, Kinda lost any help would be appreciated..Thanks TOny

so you DO have pressure at the rails? O_o

will your car idle with starter fluid or does it just fire like it wants to run but doesn't catch?

did you just get the car or have you done mods/repairs on it recently?

timing is good?

yes I Have fuel pressure at rail, during prime and crank,,It an 8 35000 original mile motor clean as a whistle...Have spark and will run on ether or gas in the intake then dies after you stop spraying....the vats seems to be working I though maybe a sensor coolant or distributors, car has no modss

vac. leak? brake booster unplugged?

im willing to bet you are getting gas in the cylinders, if you got pressure at the rails, the only thing that comes to my mind is a vac leak causing you to run way lean.

yeah no thats no thats not
relavent

You have a 20 amp inline fuse on your Firebird. The cover for the fuse is probably fastened to the right side fender well just in front of the a.c. acumulator tank. I'm not sure if this fuse just shuts off the ecm or if it kills both the ecm and the fuel pump if it blows. If it blows, the car will not start, but it will not turn on the ses light, or set a code.

Ill check that tomorrow along with the black 12v hot from the fuse panel..

Check to see if you have power at the injectors with the key on. If not, check fuses. If so, use a test light or noid light and see if the computer is firing the injectors. Plug the light into the harness connector for the injectors and crank it. If the light blinks, the computer is ok. If not blinking, make sure you have power at the ecm with the injector wire. If you do, the computer is bad. If the light does blink, check the injector resistance with an ohm meter. Should be 12-16 ohms. Anything else is bad. If all electrical checks are good, you may have clogged injectors or may even be a clogged fuel filter.

What was the pressure reading at the fuel rail? Should be close to 43 (+/- 2)

Yeah I have have 12v+ on the black power suppplys to all injectors, if you pull one 2 wire set and probe the ecm black and purple it lights up a neg grounded test light and something under the plenum humms, If i dissconnect all the injector clips, then the black wires have 12v + with the key on , and the black gree black purple have neg blinkining light on crank, this returns to having both wires 12v+ after clipping one injector clip on in addition

I don't know if this is your problem or not, but a few years ago I was helping Dyno Don at his shop and we had 3 tpi cars come in in a matter of a couple of weeks that would not run. We disconnected the fuel supply hoses and had plenty of fuel pressure coming to the rails. We hooked the fuel supply hose back up and unhooked the return line hose at the steel line going back to the tank so we could put the hose into a catch can, turned on the ignition and cranked the car. No fuel came out the return. We tried adjusting the fuel pressure regulators (all three cars had adjustable regs) but had no luck getting fuel to come out the return. We took the regulators apart and found them plugged with what looked like aluminum oxide. We used air to blow out the passages, cleaned out the trash, and put the regulators back together, and the cars worked. The three cars were from different parts of So Cal so as far as we know there was no common location to pick up bad gas. As far as I know Don has not found a recurrance of the problem since then.

Good call on the aluminum oxide buildup on the low mileage could it also be ecm related?