Im in the process of rebuilding my 89 305tpi and was curious if it would be worth a cam swap... The engine is out of and going back into my 89 IROC and is completely stock... I have read about cams for the 305 and found one I am interested in, its the POWERMAX 2031 from crane cams but its relatively expensive... about 300$ and im looking for one closer to 100$ but the same type of performance... any suggestions? Im looking to add a bit more lower end torque nothing extreme so maybe if you have a better suggestion it is welcome =) If its unreasonable to find one that cheap would it just be best to keep my stock camshaft?

http://cranecams.com/?show=browsePar...tType=camshaft

^^ link to the camshaft specs

I just finished my install on an L69, using an LT1 cam. They have about the max lift the stock heads can handle(.446 /459), and have good LSA for the TPI. Runs very strong. They are easily found on Ebay, but beware of the quality. I bought 3 before I got one that was the right specs, and did not show wear on the lobes. There is a guy on Ebay that re-grinds cams (willhoitescams), and he said he could do one with the same specs as an LT1 for $130.
Howard Cams makes a very similar model, 180225, for about $230. Elgin also makes one (model 1040) for about $200. Elgin makes one ( Model 1136) for about $150, but the LSA is 110- I think a little low for TPI.

Otherwise, you are probabaly looking at $285+(Comp Cams 08-300-8, Crane 2030,2031 or 2032 ( Crane shut down last month- may be a risk), Lunati 54760LUN are all good choices.

Good luck

A name brand roller cam is always going to be more than a flat tapped cam; just the nature of the beast. Call a cam grinder. Theres several cam grinders out there (Schneider, Iskenderian, Comp, Lunanti, Howards, I think Cam Dynamics is still around as well) We always used Isky (iskenderian) cams in our cars. Id start there, see what they offer. Get new valve springs and have your heads cleaned and a 3 angle valvejob done and some mild portwork (unless youre going to swap to say Worlds SR Torquers, or some other 58cc head (Vette aluminum 113 head?). Then have your base ported to match the heads, and open the base side of the runner tubes to match the newly ported base.

Youre going to need an Adj Fuel Pressure Regulator (either make your stock one adj. or buy one) and probably 22pd injectors and a tune on your brainbox.

Since the motors out, Id replace all the sensors, the catalytic convertor and probably switch to headers with a.i.r. tubes.

I have a lot more experience with flat tappet cams, but I LOVED the Comp 262 grind in heavy 283 - street 327s.

~Nate

Thanks guys I really appreciate the detail you put into the posts... I guess my first step is to try and find a cam grinder =)

However Im not looking to put tons of money into this rebuild...
I plan on leaving it mostly stock I just wanna add a bit more low end torque and thought a cam would be an easy way to get it...

with the new cam how many adjustments will need to made from stock? I heard the crane 2031 only needed the adj fp reg to work cuz buying 8 new injectors isnt an option right now

Alright so I found a really great and affordable LT1 cam for my 305 rebuild but I am unsure what else I need to do to my engine in order for it to run the cam correctly/efficiently... I couldnt find an article on it so If there is one could you post the link or if there isnt can you point me in the right direction?

also is there anything else I can do to my block while its torn apart to add a bit more low end torque?

Make sure the dowel pin on the front of your new cam is the right distance out from the cam core itself. I forget the required distance, but I know some LT1 cams have a longer dowel pin.

More torque? pull the oil pan and buy or fab a crank scraper, also install a windage tray in the oil pan as well and use a good quality non-cork pan gasket and new bolts

Ill be sure to check thank you for that info and about the windage tray and crank scraper Ive heard mixed reviews about them and have always be skeptical that it might cause poor lubrication... whats your experience with it? and does that really add torque? I figured just a minor hp increase...

A cam upgrade on the cheap....? At least replace the valve springs and valve seals.

Install a new timing chain/gear set. Have the pressure plate surfaced or replace it, new clutch disk and throwout bearing.

If you are having the block bored, have them "deck the block", mill the surface .010 Then you can use a thin head gasket and still seal well. The factory gasket is a steel shim about .021, most after market ones are composite and twice as thick, which will lower your compression, but they do seal well on a rough surface.

Rear end gears have a lot to do with the seat of the pants feel.

All my friends in highschool put BBK intakes on their mustnag 5-oh's and they werent that fast. My friend Amy had a stock 5-oh notch that I put Mac shorty headers, flowbastids and a homemade H pipe and some 3.73s in the rear of it. That car flat tore up the roads compared to all the other poseur mustangs. If you want to go faster on the cheap, 15" rims and higher (numerically) gears is the ticket.

That being said, If your car isnt coked full of sludge, I see no prob with a crank scraper and a windage tray. The idea of the scraper is to stop oil from slinging around on the crankshaft (think those taffy pulling machines at the carnival) which takes more energy to turn the crank. If youre trying to micro manage a small engine, I reccomend trying to keep the oil off the crank throws as much as possible, because then the oil isnt where it needs to be to do its job if its wrapped around the crank

The idea of the windage tray is to keep the oil from being beaten to a froth and to collect in the oilpan sump where it can get into the pickup. If you open the bottom of your engine, make SURE you replace the oil pump (stock is fine), and that you inspect it for machining chips. AND that you set the depth of the pick up with some clay or plastigauge

Thanks for your help guys I think ill fabricate a crank scraper but where can I get a windage tray any links?

Just as clerification its not just a cam job Im actually rebuilding the motor...
Im just getting machine work done to clean it up and smooth it out and replacing all of the necessities along with a few extras to help my low end torque while keeping the ecm stock and the car drivable

Here is a list of things Im doing that are the extras because listing the necessities would be redundant =P

New crank kit (crank, main and rod bearings)
New valve springs, seals, and retainers
New lifters
New push rods
LT1 camshaft
New clutch (technically not necessary but we accidentally broke a tooth tryin to get the motor out =/ )
A/C delete

Im having all parts cleaned and machined where applicable...

Now I havent done much research on clutches are there any suggestions on brands and are there any specific types I might prefer for my application?

And I have a mandrel tube bender so custom exhaust is coming after I break in the motor Im just tryin to cover all my bases on this rebuild...

Your help has been great Thank You =D