Concerning my new to me 86 T/A with a 305 TPI/auto trans I have had a constant code 36 even after clearing the code several times (and always between tests). After running through the factory manuals troubleshooting chart for a code 36 everything tests out fine (MAF burn off relay, MAF power relay, +12 source, checked and cleaned connections, and all wire in between check out). Further more not only can I manually make the MAF sensor wire glow by manually shorting the MAF burn off relay's coil to ground (indicating to me that the wireing/connections are ok) but also, after running the car for a while, when you shut off the car and watch the MAF sensor wire it will glow for a short time a little bit after the car is shut off (indicating to me that the ECM is running through the burn off sequence). According to the factory manual if everything checks out and all connections are good replace the ECM is this really what its down to? Also what conditions exactly does the ECM look for to set the 36 code?

After re-reading this post I think I should clarify one thing when I say I have a constant 36 even when I reset the codes what I mean is after resetting the codes the code 36 will go away as it should but it will come back on the next start after running the car for a bit always as a code 36 should if its defective.

How is your battery? A low startup voltage can trigger a code 36 to set.

Well the battery is new but the problem is already solved. Thanks though

What was the fix so others that run into the issue will have an idea.....

Well actually the problem has returned. I ran through the factory manuals tests everything checked out decided maby there was high resisance in the contacts of the relays or something so I replaced them and the check enging light went off for about a week of occational driveing thought it was fixed and then returned. Tried replaceing the relays again which didnt have much positive effect (checked to make 100% sure the relays they sold me were correct and hooked to the right harness). Currently although on most of the time the check enging light is intermitten. I can drive it one time and set the check engin light and start it up the next day and the check engin light is gone then when i get in my car after i return from wherever im went the check engin lights back. Although i will say about 70% of the time im driving it the check engin light is on. This is odd because Im pretty sure the check engin light should remain on once set even if the problem only happened once and "fixed itself" atleast for a code 3-6. I explored the possability that maby it was a power issue when the car was off by clearing the codes running the car then hooking up a battery charger befor i shut the car off so even if there was a bad battery or something the battery charger should supply power enough power however the check engin light got set again so i confident its not a power issue. No other codes preset can visually watch the burn off cycle happen yet still the code 3-6 is set. The final straw is the fact the factory manual dosnt say what conditions the ECM look for to actually set a code 3-6. I posted a thread in the ECM section of this site to see if they knew exactly what the ECM looked for to set a code 3-6 and got no responce.

Have you tried swapping another ECM? I have the same issue.
My car starts fine but the minute it gets warm, there is rough idle at low RPM's, but it runs OK at higher RPM, then if I floor it, it cuts out, and sometimes dies.

No unfortunately i didn't quite get that far. I was about to but figured what the heck befor spending money on an ECM why not replace the MAF power and burn off relays just for the heck of it. Replaced them and no change no big deal as i knew they were working anyways. However unfortunately the MAF burn off relay i got was a piece of junk and failed within one month and failed on which caused the MAF to burn up as the relay never shut off the burn off signal. I took it back to NAPA and they said well we have to send it back and see what the manufacturer says about it as far as what there willing to do and weeks later all they had to say was that it failed and was under warranty but the warranty covered the part itself only and no subsequent damages. So they would be more than happy to give me a new $13 burn off relay that I would never trust again but the $180 MAF sensor (rebuilt not even new) that it took out in the process of failing was my responsibility to replace. Since then ive been battling it out with them and havnt even replaced the MAF yet so i could even continue troubleshooting.

I need to check the MAF power relay on mine, haven't done that yet.

There's alot of guys with those sort of used parts taken off of part cars,
So if $ is an issue somebody has used MAF's ECM's and so forth from this site, cheaper than buying new.

Well its not so much about the cost i know cars are a money pit ive unfortunately had to accept this fact lol. Im most concerned about getting my moneys worth. However i had a good MAF untill i bought a bran new part that killed it and they refused to even give me a discount on a replacement. That just drives me crazy because to me thats a waist of money. So all and all although im not rich ill spend what i have to spend and concidering even used MAFs are pretty pricey for being used with no warranty so ide rather spend the $180 on a remanned unit with a 3 year warranty to know ill get what i pay for than spend $60 on a as far as i know this is a good part but its being sold as is no returns. ECMs are the same deal people sell used ones with no warranty for just about what a remmanned one costs ($67 after returning a core) with a warranty. Some even want more than a remmaned one costs and still not even a promise of even no dead on arrival or money back. I just dont want to have to pay for NAPAs mistake.

How do know your new MAF went bad?

The way I test mine is to hook up a digital voltmeter, POS+ to middle green wire coming out of MAF, and neg to GR-. Then it should read .7 at idle, to around 3-4.5 at full throttle.

Disconnecting MAF will put ECM into default, and if car runs better with MAF disconnected, then that also poionts to MAF trouble.

As for mine, I got low fuel pressure 30lbs. at 1st start-up. I 'm not sure if this was related the the 36 code.
Also my fan-relay was malfunctioning, so I took it out, and no more code 36.

It your car runs good, gas milage is OK, and perf OK, then it sounds like something minor wrong with a relay, not a MAF problem.

Well its not that my new MAF was bad because i havnt bought one yet. I know the old one was good because i tested it in the process of trying to fix the code 36. Till one day i woke up and the battery was drained and the car ran like crap. When i got home and ran through the troubleshooting section in my factory manual i realized that the burn off relay was stuck latched on and annihilated my MAF sensor and drained my battery. I know its bad for sure just by looking at it because the heated wire in the MAF sensor is no more lol.