rgarcia63

There is a procedure for re-calibrating the adjustable EGR Temp switch in the Chevy Thunder website. I've performed this procedure then used RTV to lock it down.

Lonewolf Vette

Today being the last day of 2011 and I have just ran across this discussion while looking up a IATS and Pigtail on AutoZone and ran across this EGR Time Delay while actually looking for the IATS. Curious as to this "Time Delay" and where it is located on a 1987 Corvette TPI? I just had an engine built and am having a rich issue when trying to start the Corvette. Rich eenough to foul a set of plugs. New set installed and still I am getting a too rich load and smell it quite well when trying to start the thing. Any ideas as to why this is happening and how to solve the problem?

3D87C4

I don't think the '87 has a time delay (and couldn't find any mention of one in a quick scan of my FSM). The EGR valve isn't supposed to be active till the car warms up which the ECM determines from the coolant temp, manifold air temp sensors. If there is a time delay it is likely implemented in the ECM itself. I think I've read of later year vettes having a time delay switch as part of the EGR control but didn't find it with a quick search on that other forum.

As for running rich...are you throwing any codes? The '87 FSM says, "if the system is running rich...refer to Diagnostic Aids ...Code 45" which is the Oxygen Sensor Circuit chart. In a nutshell...Fulel pressure too high, rich injector, leaking injector, HEI shielding, canister purge, MAF sensor, leaking fuel pressure regulator diaphram, intermittent TPS.

PM sent

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Why don't you do a "print screen" and post up the page that shows the troubleshoot diagram?

3D87C4

Sorry, was feeling lazy this morning. Here you go:

Lonewolf Vette

Thanks for the Diagram. When I did a code scan all I got was a normal code. To further my involved dilema here is what I have written to get any answer's to my rich problem and fouled plugs now.


While my engine is getting richer I am getting poorer. It is my hope that I can get a quick reply to my dilemma of my new motor running rich. As my need for my daily driver, with my workload getting heavy and nights without public transportation is upon me.

To start I have a 1987 Corvette with the L98 engine and over 170,000 miles on the odometer. This past October I first encountered what I believed to be a non-operating Water Thermostat, which turned out to be a cracked L98 block between the #8 and 6 pistons. With out any used or rebuilt engines in the San Francisco Bay Area. I ran across an engine builder on CraigsList with a set of Bilstein Shocks for sale that happened to have just built a 350 motor for his 1982 Corvette. I bought this block from him which had pistons stamped with a 10 that my friend and mechanic told me meant this block was bored 10 over making it a 355 ci. The engine builder told me he had installed Flat Top Racing Pistons with 10.5:1 compression & new Crank with Hydraulic Flat Tappet Lifter’s. Along with the following Comp Cam; 12-239-3 - COMP Cams Xtreme 4x4Camshafts with the following specs:

Hydraulic flat tappet

1,300-5,600

218

226

218-int./226 exh.

262

270

262-int./270 exh.

0.462 in.

0.480 in.

0.462 int./0.480 exh.

111

No

CS X4 262H-11


Using the L98 heads that were sent to a machine shop along with the Runner’s & Plenum to be cleaned and honed. The heads themselves had all new springs, valve’s, retainer’s etc and going from the factory 1.5 to 1.6 Stainless Roller Rocker’s. Yes, I see it states non Computer-Controlled Compatible. The engine builder said it would work and did, as you will see below.

Reusing the Injector’s and most all other parts from the L98 engine, although replacing all of the sensors and many other parts. The Fuel regulator is the original non-adjustable factory model. I have replaced the Spark Control Module.

I also had ordered a new Performance Chip which pictured would replace the factory Memcal in the ECM. It turned out to be one similar to what I had already installed on the L98 engine. What I had on the old L98 was a “Gorilla Chip” spliced into the wires of the IAT. This new (GForce Performance) Chip being the type that you splice into the wiring of the IAT also which is located underneath the Plenum. Let me backup here, when the engine builder & I first started the Corvette upon my picking it up upon completion & with the Gorilla Chip and factory memcal in the ECM it would not start. So I pulled the Gorilla Chip & factory Chip and installed my HyperTech ThermoMaster I had bought some 5 yrs ago. While at the time the HyperTech was too much for a stock L98 it did work with this new engine. Although it had some issues at idle at a stoplight and would go into a low enough idle to stop running, necessitating in a re-start.

Here is where my biggest problem(s) began. Me being the smart non-mechanic I am I at home attempted to install the GForce Chip, which I ordered and was to be programmed with all of the specs of this new engine. Installing it exactly as directed, it did not work. No amount of attempting to start the thing worked. What I did experience is a lot of “popping corn” sounds and 1 final “POP” from whence I do not know. My description of “popping corn” best describes what I heard when trying to start the thing. Like it wanted to start but would not. I checked the #1 plug, black and not at all like a non-rich running plug would look like. Buying a new set of plugs I replaced all. The #1 plug was the only one showing excessive richness. The other 7 plugs showed a small amount of richness but not at all like the #1 plug. It also appeared to have enough spark going to all of the plugs. Again, stock factory injector’s with 170,000 miles that were just cleaned only. (I bet you will tell me I should have changed the injectors to a new set but on a shoestring budget at this time I could not afford it. Now maybe I must afford a new set?)

I went back to the HyperTech Chip, which for over a week of driving gave me no problem. Now even with the HyperTech Chip it won’t start and slowly drains the battery in my attempts to do so. Before I continue to buy parts which I think will cure this problem and which is not curing the problem what should be done? Besides needing to install bigger Runner’s, Plenum and going to a BBK 52mmm Throttle Body, which I think I need more incoming cold air for this Cam and set-up. I am having my Factory Memcal reprogrammed for this new engine and the person doing this asked that I also buy an Adjustable Fuel Regulator. Is this a good recommendation?

I need help and I am not a “master engine builder” by any stretch of the imagination. Although I read this magazine with great interest, not so much understanding but interest. What I don’t understand is explained well enough for me to look up whatever it means that I am reading. Thank you,
Gregorio Lonewolf

Lonewolf Vette

BTW, I have all new parts installed including the EGR valve etc. All new sensors and pigtails. But I have a question regarding the size of the wires used. If I linked in a larger wire than what is the factory size wires on the IAT would this effect the current going thru the wire? I am in reference to the GForce Chip directions to splice into the IAT wires with this type of chip.

ToplesIROCmedic

OK, guys... so here's what I'm trying... I just found the EGR Temp Sensor 14087416 at GMPartsGiant.com($12+shipping) and I got EGR Vacuum Solenoid #EGR232 from Advanced AutoParts.com(the worst customer service EVER)... Now, my IROC has the "weatherpack" connector but #EGR232 has the "metripack" plug... SO, I went to TPIparts.net and ordered #WIR-380 "EGR Solenoid Connector". The plan is to splice in the connector(obviously)... I'll let everybody know how it goes...

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Part = $12.07
Shipping = $11.81
CA Sales Tax = $1.12
Total = $25.00
My take on shipping cost =

I just mailed a 3 pound Torque Arm Mount and Exhaust Hanger for $12.87, USPS. But here we have GM mailing a 2-4 ounce item at around the same price of my item that I mailed. Again,

rusty vango

ok i also have this issue .so i called hawks and they may have some sensors. check them out.also be advised that our cars will and do set false codes,there was a new prom released for TPI cars to address this issue .but you guessed it ,discontinued. so, you might find a used PROM, one of the updated ones .or you could take a chance on JET chips.dont give up,you can repair your car,you will just have to keep at it

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

I got a friend who can uv erase your MemCal and reprogram it with the egr setting disabled as in if there is a false troublecode, the ECM won't activate the ses light and dismiss he error.

lvbg1435

why not try looking in to a 84 vette one look simler to the camaros

herbyj

The Napa Store in my town shows to have it at the warehouse

http://napaonline.com/Catalog/Catalo...RecType%3aA%29

P/N 229130

rgarcia63

You might want to get one on order before they're gone.
if they really have them, you'll let us know, right?

ToplesIROCmedic

That Napa link is totally dead... Just like everyone else... The 'computer' says they have it, but they don't!! It's a conspiracy I tell you!! lol. 'The Man' wants our kick-*** rides off the road...

burnout88

I thought you found the temp sensor at GM parts direct.

ToplesIROCmedic

Same deal at GM Parts... the computer says they have it, but they don't stock it... I just ordered the 'vette version P/N14087415 yesterday off of ebay. AFTER, calling the seller and confirming they have it in hand. Just gonna try to splice it in...(these guys have a repro mfr, by the way)

On the bright side, splicing in the "metripak' connector and using the updated Vacuum Solenoid like I said works perfectly!!!

herbyj

I'll call the NAPA store tomorrow and if they truely have it @ the warehouse, i'll upload a pic here

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Dude. This is reallity. Not a fantasy. The fact is that our older cars are being sold to junkyards and wrecked. With that said, the demand has dropped. With the drop of sales, there is no more profitable gain because less of the switch/sensor is being purchased. Supply and Demand to be exact. Conspiracy? Nah. I dought it. I was in the military and Ive seen Duece and a half's that are wwwaaaaaaayyyyyy older than my 86 IROC, AND without emissions devices. Range Control uses old trucks too who run on MOGAS and they dont have emissions devices either. And yup, these vehicle that I mentioned are Federal Government vehicles. Again, consiparcy? Nope.

herbyj

Man, I feel like an ***...haha sure enough it's completely discontinued....

ToplesIROCmedic

Don't worry about it- we all fell it somewhere! lol... but on the brightside I did find these guys on ebay- got mine in the mail today, gonna try and fit it. If it doesn't fit stock, I'm gonna splice in a longer pigtail... Let ya'll know how it works out... wish me luck!!!!

ToplesIROCmedic

Ok- so here are my results....... IT ALL WORKS!!! The Corvette EGR Temp Sensor (with it's shorter pigtail) fit into the harness pug by the skin or it teeth. I did have to free a little of the plug wire from the big harness loom. But I didn't have to splice length in to the pigtail. I found this on Ebay, under P/N:14087415. It was $60.00, which is a bit more than it was 20yrs ago- but it now works.... and with the newer style EGR Vacuum Solenoid and "metripak" "Solenoid Connector Plug" I got from TPIparts.net- I replaced my whole EGR system for about $120.00 with shipping.
I know some of you hate and want to delete your EGR, but I gotta say- the car runs wonderful as is... PM me if you need direct links or help finding any of this stuff.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

This is a messageboard designed to help and give advice. Why don't you jus post up the links?

ToplesIROCmedic

Hey guys. I just posted in another thread that I found a source for the Temp Sensor. DO a search on Ebay for P/N: 14087415 ($60). This the Corvette (C4) version of the same sendor. The only difference is a shorter wire pigtail. You have to plumb it carefully and maybe free a little ectra wire harness from the Loom side. But it's a perfect fit and works! Already did it.
Also, the Vacuum solenoid issue is overcome-able too. PM me for answers if you don't find the here or on the "EGR solenoid thread"

87corvetteconv

A little off topic, but what does dought mean? I'm reading, trying to fix an EGR issue I am having and I am trying to comprehend. Edit....Sorry about that. I just figured it out. You meant to say "doubt". My bad. I just have a difficult time sometimes trying to figure out typos, grammar errors, etc. I was given an 87 with all off the A.I.R. stuff removed including the EGR valve and can't figure out what to do with the EGR sensor/switch still connected to the pipe but not hooked to the headers and manifold. It is just laying there still connected to the wiring harness.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Supposed to be screwed into the base of the egr valve. If te valve is gone, then decommect the switch and mail it to me. I'll pay for shipping.

jeff_blake

iTrader: (1)

hey all jeff here, i came across a few more legit ones. heres the link, since ive been there and done that. kinda a pita to find. pm me for more info, most average 50-60 dollars.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

FOUND A NEW EGR SENSOR!!!!! Check out this link.... Provided from my friend above Jeff Blake.....
http://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=http...27&h=SAQGCth1H

jeff_blake

iTrader: (1)

hey now hey now, just search ebay with the delco number, they have 6 going for 60 bucks. that 400 one was a shocker to me!

R/T-Z28

Just broke mine today removing the EGR. Ordered the Vette one on Ebay for $60.

A little of topic but my EGR sounds like it stuck open. When I pulled it off I can still make it move but its seems a little difficult.

Do you guys think its dirty or Damaged?

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Push on the diaphragm from below and then put your finger on the tiny hole. If the diapham moves, then it's bad. If it stays put, its diapham is good. Now remove your finger from the tiny hole. The diaphragm should then move back to its original position Agianst the bottom of the egr casing. Did that make sense?

R/T-Z28

Yes thats what I was doing. The diaphram is intact but it takes a good amount of force to push it up. Also on the bottom of the EGR the interior solenoid is about a 1/4 of an inch from fully closing. Is that normal.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

The good amount of force is normal. IIRC, it's spring loaded. It may sound disgusting, but when I tested mine, I brought it inside and did the push diaphragm test. While holding the vacuum with my finger, I blew into the bottom with my mouth, released the vacuum while still blowing. If air passes through with or without vacuum, then there is a problem. The reason why I said to do the test inside is because your gonna end up with exhaust soot around your lips.

paulo57509

Kind of reminds me of the old joke about the terrorist that tried to blow up a bus.......

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

jpage67

Has anyone tried Autozone's Duralast/EGR Time Delay Switch P/N EDS4? Ya...I see it has two wires. One would be grounded.

lakeport

keep an eye on ebay, just last week i purchased a working EGR with temp sensor for 18.00, they are out there

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

If you remove the temp switch, you will get a ses. But if you really wanna do away with the sensor, but don't want that trouble code and or the sea light to turn on, I got a friend who can remove/delete the egr error by reprogramming your memcal. Lmk what you think.

alexiroc

I got an EGR temp sensor on E-bay last week. Someone is now selling them for $55.

FYI - This caused a stalling problem. Had a shorted EGR temp sensor and EGR that would not hold vacuum. So these would throw the computer off. Once a blue moon check engine light would go on, giving a code 32 (egr) and 44 (lean). It made no sense to me that an EGR would cause this, but apparently the temp sensor being shorted maybe caused the computer to get confused.

So after checking almost all the other sensors, this did the trick. Car idles nice, hot or cold.

dwisti

iTrader: (1)

I've been trying to locate the EGR temp sensor for my 87 TPI 305. Is this the correct part?

10487416

tpi88camaro

iTrader: (7)

Yup. All tpi f-bodies have them on the egr valve just like the 85 corvette. I wonder why they moved it in later years on the vette. After seeing what they are going for now, if you can get them, I am glad I got the ones I did when I did.

dwisti

iTrader: (1)

I found the EGR temp switch 14087416 from this website. Call them and it is the correct length (approx 16 inch pigtail)
http://www.lectriclimited.com/

1989karr

That looks like the one!

Johngypsy

As a parts guy here in Houston tx, I only sell l98 Tpi and 305 parts some 85-89 but most 90-92 parts and all that is needed, so here's the deal guys. The EGR valve temp switch is not the same as u think they actually make them in 2-3 different shapes but all hae the same plug ins, hope this makes sence to u guys. A 1985 that I took off and compaired it to a 89 model was different in shape not size of fitment but different the way it goes as far as the vaccume lines go, backwards to most egr' so the screw in is made different in that way. The actual vaccume lines will be shorter to install so be careful when u get one,

Also if u come accross one? U may be able to just take it apart and use your old casing to work, but there again may be

I have a few In My garage that I am selling for 30 dollars these are the factory org one used not a aftermarket or store brand but the factory ones it came with when new, that will be 30 with shipping to anyone who needs it,

I may have a EGR to for 30 dollars for sale also, the new EGR can be ordered from napa ORDERED, not in stock for 123.99 dollars, expensive to say the least,
I will also throw in the vaccume lines that is needed to help along the way, they are brand new that I got for this issue only.

Good luck guys and take care of this issue, if all els fails? U can also do a costume chip that will allow the EGR delete to fix this issue even with the EGR temp switch, but that will be a pain in the rear, and about several days to do. Taking off complete intake, delete plate, plus more and the chip so it's money, time, labor, and not driving the car for some time and calling it a project to go this route, so best bet just get this fixed the proper way

Good luck fellas
John
Iroc z parts and supplies

johnjohninht@gmail.com

Please email me for more info as I don't come on this site all the time so private messages I don't get until a while

katana247

April 26, 2021 i just ordered the corvette egr temp switch for use on my 86 trans am. Yes wire appears shorter I a plan on splicing in some length with quick release connections. I believe its 10 gauge(not 100 percent sure on guage) stranded copper wire. I will post info on how it worked out once i installed. My EGR switch was reading NC (normally closed) i measured 0 ohms from center pin to outer bolt the screws into EGR body. This indicates a closed or shorted position at ambient temp should measure NO (normally open) It should measure very high resistance in the Mega ohms or even infinite at ambient, if you heat it up while measuring you should see it change from open high resistance to close which is shorted position or zero.

1989karr

let us know how it goes!!

Reddragon88gta

I run the corvette egr temp sensor on my L98 GTA, works fine all you have to do is splice into the longer factory wire. Replacing that sensor finally cleared my code 32.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Found some.
https://www.corvettecentral.com/c4-8...r%26count%3d36

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

cdoyle

Question for you guys.
Did all models have the heat sensor?
I was going to order a new EGR Valve, but I'm seeing some with and some without the port for it.
I have a 92 Camaro 5.7.

Example:
without
https://www.autozone.com/emission-co...070/135975_0_0

with:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...evrolet-camaro

Was hoping to order it ahead of time before, and have it here ready to go when I time to work on it. But now not sure which one to order.