Ok my 87 IROC (305 TPI) needs a new fuel pump. don't have the equipment to do it myself and so i got an estimate from a couple places and they're trying to tell me it's gonna cost over a grand to do it. I call bullshit. didn't do it while i was there didn't feel like pissing anyone off today. But I'm calling Bull. said the pump was 500 bucks. anyone got some input as to how much a fuel pump SHOULD be? only time I've had to have a pump replaced it was 300 something on my vortec pickup that I used to have. labor and all. quick replies would be appreciated please as i need to do something with it soon. either move it to where i can work on it or take it into a shop. my apartment says since it don't run i need to get it out of there.

They're really sticking it to you on the cost of the pump. Labor though... yes. The tank has to be dropped to replace it, I forget the book time on the job but its probably going to cost about 4-500 for that plus the pump should be more like 150 for what they'll charge you for a stock replacement pump.

Yeah i had a feeling they were trying to stick it to me on the pump. Labor yes I knew it would be up there because of having to drop the rear end, etc. They said 4-5 hour job so they're charging damn near 100/hr on the labor. Thanks. I thought they were trying to screw me on that

It would be about $413.50 parts and labor at my shop. Thats $313.50 labor(3.8 hours labor @ $82.50 hour) and about $100 for the pump.

I got quoted around the same for mine. i did it myself. All you need is a breaker bar, and some jack stands. Other than that a normal socket set got me through mine.

yup finally found a place that quoted me at that. i would keep it around where i could do it but my apartment complex is breathing fire for me to get it out of there

I would upgrade to a walbro255 pump at this time if i were you. If your gonna mod your car better to get it out of the way now, rather then end up having to do it all again later. its only like 120$ also i believe.

also based off your name, if your in the military you could use your base auto hobby shop. Here in Tampa its like 2.50 an hour and you have access to a lift and every tool imaginable, just giving you some alternatives to spending money, i hate paying so much money to fix cars lol.

I'm in the reserves now and am over an hour from the nearest installation. So the autocraft shop is out of the question otherwise I would do that. And i'm not planning on modding it much at all. gonna keep it pretty stock. So i don't have any reason to get an upgraded pump. just gonna get it running. thing that pissed me off is the fact that i had filled it up 30 or 40 miles before the stupid thing went off. Still waiting on my travel pay from AT but the shop owner is prior service and he understands my situation and is going to work with me on that. reenlistment bonus is gonna help out a lot as well.

Sounds like your all set then, sucks about being that far from a base. The air force base near me is my savior lol. With that much gas in the tank you best be thankful your not doing it, that would be like a 3 man job wiggling that heavy *** tank down.

If you CAN do it yourself without the apts. giving you crap for working on it at the property, then the money you save would be worth it IMO. I've done this job myself twice and I'm no expert mechanic, just basic knowledge of tools and how to use them. The first part is, with my Edelbrock cat-back I was able to remove the exhaust under the tank easily. Second I removed the panhard rod to help the rear hang a little lower from the body. Third, I would siphon as much gas as possible from the tank. If you leave it the tank sitting below the car for a day or so you'll find that quite a bit of your gas has evaporated (learned that first hand). The part that cost me the most time was figuring out how to rotate the tank out so that the filler neck will clear and allow the tank to drop out. My dad is an ASE mechanic but works on big rigs, so he didn't know the exact way to rotate the tank to allow it to come out easily. I'm sure the guys on here can tell you but if memory serves you have to rotate the front side (motor side) of tank to a 45 degree angle and push up and slide out to the passenger side to allow it to clear. You will work your rear-end off to get this done, but with proper technique it's simple mechanic skills to do the job. Fuel lines and connections and removing all the bolts and the tanks straps is "technically" all that is required. You can do this, but how much is it worth to you?