TPITuned Port Injection discussion and questions. LB9 and L98 tech, porting, tuning, and bolt-on aftermarket products.
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Does anyone here know anybody at all around the Augusta GA (30907) area who knows alot about TPI and can help my solve some problems I am having?? I need some serious help!! guys!!
-Andrew
1) I start it up, leave and maybe 30 seconds or 5 min after the check engine light flashes on the off.. at the same time.. when the light comes on for a milli second.. the engine starts to die then comes right back.. I might lose 1000 RPM. This might happen 3-7-15 times a drive. Before this problem got to this point.. my engine would actually turn off after a flash and would not start back up nor would the fuel pump run.. after sitting for a few minutes.. it would start right up and drive.. 1 day.. this happened to me 3 times in a row.. about 3 or 4 min in between each time.. I checked all my grounds... 1 of them was a loose fitting.. I changed fittings and location of the computer ground to the head ground.. now it only flashes and almost dies then comes right back.
2) When I put the pedal to the metal.. and I get up to 2500 or more RPM... I lose alot of power.. Sounds like the engine is missing or putting too much fuel in... This is the sound I cannot completely explain. When I am on the gas.. just driving and I get up to 2500 or more RPM... it is perfectly fine.
3) When I come home and shift to park.. my idle fluctuates from 500 to 12-1300 rpm.. when I stomp the gas to 1500 afterwords.. the idle is fine...
These are the problems I am finding.. I didnt have the check engine light or idle problem on my 250 mile trip to Augusta from Lagrange just 2 or 3 weeks ago.. the only problem I had was the fuel filter and injectors, which I took care off...
1) I start it up, leave and maybe 30 seconds or 5 min after the check engine light flashes on the off.. at the same time.. when the light comes on for a milli second.. the engine starts to die then comes right back.. I might lose 1000 RPM. This might happen 3-7-15 times a drive. Before this problem got to this point.. my engine would actually turn off after a flash and would not start back up nor would the fuel pump run.. after sitting for a few minutes.. it would start right up and drive.. 1 day.. this happened to me 3 times in a row.. about 3 or 4 min in between each time.. I checked all my grounds... 1 of them was a loose fitting.. I changed fittings and location of the computer ground to the head ground.. now it only flashes and almost dies then comes right back.
2) When I put the pedal to the metal.. and I get up to 2500 or more RPM... I lose alot of power.. Sounds like the engine is missing or putting too much fuel in... This is the sound I cannot completely explain. When I am on the gas.. just driving and I get up to 2500 or more RPM... it is perfectly fine.
3) When I come home and shift to park.. my idle fluctuates from 500 to 12-1300 rpm.. when I stomp the gas to 1500 afterwords.. the idle is fine...
These are the problems I am finding.. I didnt have the check engine light or idle problem on my 250 mile trip to Augusta from Lagrange just 2 or 3 weeks ago.. the only problem I had was the fuel filter and injectors, which I took care off...
you have to pull codes, but i think since you transplanted the engine into a truck that there is no dig readout.. if you can't on the car then go to autozone and see if they can pull codes for you. I bet you have a shorted egr solonoid. Since the light flashes and you loos rpm it seems to me that when the solonoid actuates it triggers the light if its got a shorted coil. unhook the solonoid and see if the idle still hunts. Then if it does, it could be the IAC but, that won't trigger a sys light. But, a code will tell us more than guessing.
There is no EGR valve or wiring.. does that matter? What coil do you speak of? The IAC motor has only been in the truck for 3 weeks or less.. how does the IAC keep messing up if it is? I will check the IAC tomorrow.. TPS read 800 at idle and 5.08 at full throttle... IDK about the CTS or the Oxygen sensor.. I replaced my oxygen sensor due to the check engine light being on and pulling the code for it... this time IDK.. I will go to Autozone and ask for someone to ride with me to take a code.. the check engine light doesnt ever come on when im just sitting there idling..
why would he have to go to autozone to get the codes? Get a paper clip and count the flashes. Its simple, when i get off work tomorrow i will make a video to show him what im talking about
__________________ 1989 Firebird Formula
TPI 305 T5 3.45 9 bolt
K&N filter, airfoil, SFCs, strut tower brace, TB bypass, airbox modified, smog removed, no cat, dynomax catback (junk), and some kind of chip the guy before me bought (probably one of the off the shelf junk chips)
why would he have to go to autozone to get the codes? Get a paper clip and count the flashes. Its simple, when i get off work tomorrow i will make a video to show him what im talking about
good idea. I was thinking his sys light wasn't there because it was a transplant.. re read the post the light comes on so there must be one. code scanner is still free and easy, but he can do it with the clip.. please post the procedure for him as i have always had a code scanner.. thanks
I will, and will let him see the flashes. Im sure mine has some codes stored lol. I remember when i read on here how to do it i was a little confused about how to count them but its pretty simple once u understand it.
__________________ 1989 Firebird Formula
TPI 305 T5 3.45 9 bolt
K&N filter, airfoil, SFCs, strut tower brace, TB bypass, airbox modified, smog removed, no cat, dynomax catback (junk), and some kind of chip the guy before me bought (probably one of the off the shelf junk chips)
couldn't get cam to work for some reason, going to get my cousins tomorrow and make it sorry
__________________ 1989 Firebird Formula
TPI 305 T5 3.45 9 bolt
K&N filter, airfoil, SFCs, strut tower brace, TB bypass, airbox modified, smog removed, no cat, dynomax catback (junk), and some kind of chip the guy before me bought (probably one of the off the shelf junk chips)
why would he have to go to autozone to get the codes? Get a paper clip and count the flashes. Its simple, when i get off work tomorrow i will make a video to show him what im talking about
Ok... now... I still have that same idle problem when I put it in park.. I have been noticing my idle going from 800 to 1000 or so when I am rolling down hill and my transmission is in neutral.. when I start putting on the brake.. it stops and goes down to 750 rpm.. ( I have to tinker with my timing a bit too ) I am about to make a trip to Lagrange coming up near the end of October.. would it be any trouble if I stoped by FIC?
sorry man i forgot all about it, if its not raining tomorrow when i get off work i will make it for you then. Its pretty simple though, u get a paper clip and plug into the two holes on the top row all the way to the right. then you turn the key to the on position but dont crank it. it will flash code 12 three times to let you know the computer is working or something like that. the first flashes are for the first digit in the code and the second flashes are the second digit. Code 12 will flash once then a long pause then flash twice, that would be 1 and 2 which will make code 12. then just say code 34 it would flash 3 times then a pause and then flash 4 times. Each code will flash 3 times then a longer pause and the next code will start flashing. It seems a little confusing but when u actually see it you will understand what i mean
__________________ 1989 Firebird Formula
TPI 305 T5 3.45 9 bolt
K&N filter, airfoil, SFCs, strut tower brace, TB bypass, airbox modified, smog removed, no cat, dynomax catback (junk), and some kind of chip the guy before me bought (probably one of the off the shelf junk chips)