TPI fuel lines - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards

bronc3buster84 · 10-29-2009, 08:30 PM

Does anyone have a pic of the fuel lines coming off the fuel rails. Need ones from a car with a serp belt setup. Tryin to see how they were ran and bent. Thanks all.

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Ward · 10-29-2009, 11:16 PM

This is from my 88:

bronc3buster84 · 10-29-2009, 11:21 PM

I need a pic of the lines that connect to the fuel rail from the frame side.

IrocTheZ28 · 10-31-2009, 12:46 PM

Hope this helps you out.

bronc3buster84 · 10-31-2009, 10:57 PM

So they run in front of the alt. I was thinkin they was behind it. Do you have a pic of the ends going into the fuel rail. Thanks man.

Ward · 11-01-2009, 12:25 AM

No, they run behind the alternator. In this pic, you can see where they come out from behind/under it:

bronc3buster84 · 11-01-2009, 01:40 AM

Thanks Ward. Thats the way i had mine running. Just wanted to make sure i had them right.

IrocTheZ28 · 11-02-2009, 03:40 AM

Yes, Ward's picture is correct. I had my fuel rail moved closer to the drivers side valve cover for distributor reinstall and the hoses seemed out of place. Sorry about the confusion there.

Ward, in your fuel rail pic, what type of fuel injectors are you running to be exact and are they for a 305 or 350? They look new.

I purchased my fuel injectors from Fuel Injector Connection and they are of the Ford type Bosch III's. In the pic below I bolted down the fuel rail nice and tight and the upper seals still peek out but the lower seals closest to the pintle are pretty much inside I guess. Pretty soon I will test the fuel system pressure. I hope this doesn't pose a problem. Anyone had this before?

Ward · 11-02-2009, 03:53 AM

I'm running Bosch design II's, 19#. I got them for about $65 on ebay, freshly rebuilt. In retrospect, I probably should have gone with the design 3's, but even these are are better than the filthy old multecs they replaced.

The bosch injectors are about 1/8" shorter than the original ones, which is why you can see the o-rings. You need to re-use the little clips that hold the injectors into the fuel rails. The clips keep the injectors from sliding too far up into the fuel rail. With the lower o-rings not seated, I don't think you'll have a fuel leak, but instead I think you might wind up with a vacuum leak.

When I replaced my injectors, I clipped all of them into the fuel rail first, then installed the whole rails/injectors assembly onto the lower intake. It took a little wiggling, but it can be done. Also, before you get the runners and plenum bolted on, hook up the fuel lines, and pressure test the system. That way if there is a leak, you don't have to pull it all apart again.

Edit: Also, while you've got it all apart, I'd replace the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm too. With the fuel rails off the car, it's pretty easy to do.

IrocTheZ28 · 11-02-2009, 05:06 AM

Back to tearing this up all over again maybe. I totally forgot about them small C-clips and here I was thinking I don't have to reuse them and to eliminate a fuel or vacuum leak, this makes total sense. However, I don't recall these Bosch III's having a groove for these C-clips to be refitted. Doing the double check tomorrow.

The runners were a giving me trouble after I bolted down the fuel rail because 2 particular injectors would not let me fit my T-40 bit at a certain angle. I bought a flexible tool to resolve this soon.

I have the TPIS adjustable fuel pressure regulator and diaphragm on standby but I neglected to take the initial fuel pressure reading before ripping this apart, that was my first mistake. I figured leave the stock FPR in and test for leaks and measure the original fuel pressure. Eventually the aftermarket FPR pieces will make its way in the fuel system later but I want the stock FPR to do its job first I guess. I was thinking of installing a fuel gauge on the rail afterwards. Would that be plumbed where the Schrader valve is? You can see how I can get confused with all these new parts laying around therefore the Bosch III's went first.

What a learning process this is...gotta do it right! I'd like your thoughts on this and point me in the right direction now that I see your top end ready to be pieced together.

Last quick question: Where can I get those metal clips that lock the plug onto the injector? I need 2 actually for the passenger side...

Ward · 11-02-2009, 12:10 PM

The injectors should have a groove for the clips, I think they pretty much all do. I replaced all of the stock torx bits with allen ones. Combined with allen wrenches that have the "ball" at one end, it makes the odd angles easier to get at. Wrenches like these:

You might check at autozone in the "help" parts section for the injector clips, other than that I'm not sure where you'd get them. Maybe the dealership, how much could they possibly charge for some little metal clips :P

Edit: just checked autozone's website, they do list them, P/N 800-9417 - they're 10 bucks each though, which seems a little steep.

Also, yes putting a gauge directly on the schrader valve is the easiest way to add a fuel pressure gauge. You can get one from summit that just screws right onto it, like this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-800199/

Just make sure and get one that reads high enough - some of them are for carb, and only go up to like 15 PSI.

bronc3buster84 · 11-02-2009, 12:32 PM

Where did you buy all the allen bolts at.

Ward · 11-02-2009, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bronc3buster84

Where did you buy all the allen bolts at.

Many, many trips to lowe's and hope depot. I would actually recommend instead just buying a bolt kit though. The bolts I bought are all black oxide finish, and have started to surface rust a little. I'll probably pick up a stainless bolt kit before too long and replace them all.