TPITuned Port Injection discussion and questions. LB9 and L98 tech, porting, tuning, and bolt-on aftermarket products.
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ok, just got bak from the dyno, mainly to sort my over fueling out. bit peeved off with only 284.2 bhp! its a 350 tpi, with edlebrock aluminum performer heads, cranes cam, 1.6 roller rockers, siameased slp runners and ported plenum ans a 52 mm throttle body and a ram air hood + air box. also heedman headers, de-cat and borla exhust. ive run 13.2 @ 102 mph without the nitrous. is my standard inlet manifold chocking my tpi?
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__________________ 87 trans-am;350 tpi, wrapped headman headers,no cat,no air pump,no a/c, borla cat back, motorvation custom chip,edlebrock performer heads,cranecams cam,roller rockers,mallory distributor,8.8mm msd wires and blaster coil, adustable fuel pressure regulator,bbk 52mm throttle body, slp siamesed runners, ported plenum, ram air hood and air box, sub frame connectors, kyb shocks, poly bushes, rebuilt 700R4, ally prop 3;73 gears eaton diff 11.77 @ 118mph with 150 shot
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you pulled the engine?
how would you get a flywheel reading?
if thats wheel hp, then thats not too bad and about on track with your mods.
300 wheel hp = 375 crank hp
280 wheel would put you right at around 350 crank, which is 1 hp/ci...
if they put the car on a dyno then did some funny math to give you a reading of flywheel hp, then dont trust it as a number, just a yardstick... meaning that if you go back and have 5 more hp, then you gained.
kinda like standing on a scale that hasnt been calibrated
Depending on the weight of your car and the track conditions, 13.2 at 102 could be right in the ball-park for 280rwhp. That's around 350HP through an automatic, which seems quite reasonable considering your mods. I'm not sure where you are getting the BHP numbers, so please elaborate...
Are you still running the stock torque converter? If so it's not listed in your sig. If not, you should really look into a 3000-3200. That will drop you into the high-mid 12's and should increase your traps by a couple mph. My bro picked up 3mph just by adding a stall in his LT1 car.
__________________ 1989 Red GTA: 350TPI / auto / 3.27
i had a custom made chip burned. i used to have a 305 but then found a 350 gta junker took the engine out and hade a guy do the heads and cam for me. the custom chip is still in the 305 ecu.
you pulled the engine?
how would you get a flywheel reading?
if thats wheel hp, then thats not too bad and about on track with your mods.
300 wheel hp = 375 crank hp
280 wheel would put you right at around 350 crank, which is 1 hp/ci...
if they put the car on a dyno then did some funny math to give you a reading of flywheel hp, then dont trust it as a number, just a yardstick... meaning that if you go back and have 5 more hp, then you gained.
kinda like standing on a scale that hasnt been calibrated
no, i didnt have the engine dyno'd. i was on a rolling road, i think they calculate the rolling resistance of the drive train as the wheels slow down after they've done the run. im not too sure how they work it out to be honest!!
Are you still running the stock torque converter? If so it's not listed in your sig. If not, you should really look into a 3000-3200. That will drop you into the high-mid 12's and should increase your traps by a couple mph. My bro picked up 3mph just by adding a stall in his LT1 car.
if memory serves me well it has a 2800 torque converter. i had it fitted when i had the 'box rebuilt and the gearing changed.apparantly its the best stall speed for the cam ive got. cant remember what the cam is though!
284 sounds like rear wheel hp, and sounds about right to me.
With your quarter mile times. which by the way are pretty fast for a tpi car.
11's with nitrous and a street car,,,Im impressed, nice ride.
no, i didnt have the engine dyno'd. i was on a rolling road, i think they calculate the rolling resistance of the drive train as the wheels slow down after they've done the run. im not too sure how they work it out to be honest!!
that is the most bogus way to calculate HP ever devised.
the idea is that you get a "true" number but there are so many problems, that again, like i said, dont put faith in the actual numbers, just use them as a yardstick.
go ahead and go to a real dyno, measure your RWHP, do some mods, and measure again.
even a conventional dyno is not going to be completely accurate
most people are disappointed after a dyno run.
just dont get caught up in the numbers. use them as a tuning device instead
heck, multiply by 4 right off the bat and you wont have anything to worry about
That all looks pretty good to me. Even with ported this and siamesed that a TPI-style intake is not going to be a high RPM screamer with mind-bending peak HP numbers. It's a good setup for a solid.broad torque curve and it looks like you're getting about what you should be getting, albeit not knowing what cam you've got in it.
thanks for the responses guys. i guess i was just hoping for a bit of bragging rights to tell my buddies! one of my friends wants to get a supercharged honda civic with 300 bhp! i just wanted to show him what REAL power was! tpi's are torque monsters! i reakon id still beat him in the quarter. what do you guys think? and once ive replaced my intake it may help my heads, cam and runners come alive?
Yea, HP numbers on the TPI set-up are going to look unimpressive when 300HP seems to be more "common" in the performance/upgrade world. I have said this before and I'll say it again though, HP sells cars, Torque wins races. You're torque numbers are probably a hell of a lot higher than the 300 HP honda's. However, the weight of the import gives them an edge on us...they don't need as much power per se to get down the track fast...if he's modded enough, he might break into the 13's as well.
