TPITuned Port Injection discussion and questions. LB9 and L98 tech, porting, tuning, and bolt-on aftermarket products.
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Only got 295 rwhp and 510nm was expecting 320-330rwhp, AFR was 12,8 when I tested the day before but 11.6 on the dyno how much HP did that cost me approx?
Pictures here http://cid-7a06729d03062ecf.skydrive...aspx/Bromsning
Well first look at it this way...Thats power making it to the wheels...second look at your rpm range, you hit 6grand correct...and then look at your trq...almost 360 ft/lbs !!! You may not have the #s you want but Id say its pretty stoout and the car should be pretty quick.
Should be capable of more hp than that. I've seen 350 L98s with that cam but miniram and AFR heads put out near 370whp. HSR is capable of similar hp as miniram for most situations. Well built 383 should have no problem reaching near 350whp with that setup, but i'm not too familar with the heads
How much timing are you running? Was the cam degreed when installed?
Should be capable of more hp than that. I've seen 350 L98s with that cam but miniram and AFR heads put out near 370whp. HSR is capable of similar hp as miniram for most situations. Well built 383 should have no problem reaching near 350whp with that setup, but i'm not too familar with the heads
How much timing are you running? Was the cam degreed when installed?
No I have not done a compression test yet the engine is newly built. Timings at 34 deg from 3000 and up. the cam was not degreed when it was installed. Because I read this on compcams site that it wasnt necesary I installed after their instructions:
"Should you degree your new cam?
It isn’t absolutely necessary to degree the cam for the engine to run efficiently. COMP Cams® grinds most
of its High Energy, Magnum, and Xtreme Energy™ cams four degrees advanced. This positions the camshaft for the best street performance."
How much hp could I expect to gain if afr is 12.8 instead of 11.5? I had hope for 330-340rwhp but I guess it wont happen with my edelbrock heads.
AFR was 12,8 when I tested the day before but 11.6 on the dyno how much HP did that cost me approx....?
That is what did it, you need to lean out your afr. 11.6:1 is way too rich at WOT, you need to get it back in the 12.6:1 / 13.4:1 area. What does your timing look like, 34 degrees throughout....?
Lean out the air fuel ratio, then slightly increase timing to see what the engine really wants. Start out with 34 degrees, of course, then back off when necessary. How many pulls are they allowing you....?
Lean out the air fuel ratio, then slightly increase timing to see what the engine really wants. Start out with 34 degrees, of course, then back off when necessary. How many pulls are they allowing you....?
There is only 1 pull for $110 I dont know how much he charge for a couple of pulls. It feels like the heads are to small for 383 they are only 170cc/65cc and flows
229 at .400 and 232 at .500
IF your A/F is 12.8 on the street, then leave it! Dyno will not load the motor as much as street driving so leaning it on the dyno to show hp will make the car run much slower and more dangerous on the street due to being lean
14.7 w/out ethanol is stoich, but with the 10% of ethanol in the fuel today he's now looking at about 14.1 being stoich. He can lean out the air fuel ratio closer to 13.4:1 w/out going lean in a naturally aspirated engine, and this of course works best in conjunction with the right amount of timing thrown into the mix. His 220/230 510"/510" @ 114 is pretty tame for a 383.
There is only 1 pull for $110 I dont know how much he charge for a couple of pulls. It feels like the heads are to small for 383 they are only 170cc/65cc and flows 229 at .400 and 232 at .500....
At 11.6:1 your running way too rich at WOT in a naturally aspirated engine, and your robbing yourself of horsepower. Leaning out the engine some more will get you where you want to be, but just remember that there is always a limit to how much fuel you can pull out. We tune fuel with the air being consumed, not the air with fuel being consumed....
See what it runs at the track. Dynos are more of a tool then a bible. I had that cam in my 350 last year and went 12.27 with the stock tpi intake and 11.95 with a miniram, 3400 pounds. Never been on a dyno though. That cam is pretty good for a street car and very easy to tune. And I agree with Orr about the dyno not being able to load the motor causing it to run rich. See what the afr is going down the track. If tuned right it should run pretty good though the 170cc runners are a bit of a comprimise.
See what it runs at the track. Dynos are more of a tool then a bible. I had that cam in my 350 last year and went 12.27 with the stock tpi intake and 11.95 with a miniram, 3400 pounds. Never been on a dyno though. That cam is pretty good for a street car and very easy to tune. And I agree with Orr about the dyno not being able to load the motor causing it to run rich. See what the afr is going down the track. If tuned right it should run pretty good though the 170cc runners are a bit of a comprimise.
You ran a 12.2 with a stock TPI in a full weight thirdgen? More details please...I'm finding that extremely hard to believe.
By stock tpi i did not mean stock motor. He said he ran a 12.2 with a stock tpi INTAKE. I dont car what heads cam package you come up with, your not going to hit a 12.2 with a stock tpi intake on a 350, without using nitrous, in a full weight thirdgen.
i got rpm performer heads 2.02 1.6 64cc 3-8 stud, 1.6 comp silvers, 12-367-4 comp cam rpm air gap intake, high flow oil pump moroso 6 quart pan etc and i should be look at around 450-500 hp
You have a bigger cam than I have but 500hp with heads that flow 229 at .500 and 231 at .600 I find that hard to belive. They usually put out 400-420hp.
You have a bigger cam than I have but 500hp with heads that flow 229 at .500 and 231 at .600 I find that hard to belive. They usually put out 400-420hp.
it was just a rough estimate. maybe it is somewhere around 400-420 but it really dont matter to muchhp you have. hp dont mean anything. its the torque you have at that certain rpm.