rocker arms
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Car: 1986 Trans AM WS6
Engine: 383 Vortec TPI, PUTS SMILES ON FACE
Transmission: PATC LVL 3 Raptor Transmission
Axle/Gears: 3.27 POSI 9 BOLT
rocker arms
I'm going to be doing roller rockers.... What is the best brand to go with and what ALL do I need to get and please explain how I do it just to be sure I don't miss anything
Last edited by happyhapka; 07-08-2014 at 10:04 AM.
#2
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Re: rocker arms
Depends on your heads...and what your plan is.
I/e a set of full roller rochers on a stock enegine...kinda pointless (IMO) for a few HP...
Things to consider...do you need guide plates?...etc...
COMP has always had good products...I know many others have as well.
Might I suggest maybe 1.6 roller tipped stamped rockers...a hp or 3, and won't break the bank.
I/e a set of full roller rochers on a stock enegine...kinda pointless (IMO) for a few HP...
Things to consider...do you need guide plates?...etc...
COMP has always had good products...I know many others have as well.
Might I suggest maybe 1.6 roller tipped stamped rockers...a hp or 3, and won't break the bank.
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Car: 1986 Trans AM WS6
Engine: 383 Vortec TPI, PUTS SMILES ON FACE
Transmission: PATC LVL 3 Raptor Transmission
Axle/Gears: 3.27 POSI 9 BOLT
Re: rocker arms
I am looking at comps 1.6 rollers but need to know if I need new pushrods etc... I do plan on throwing in a cam , runners and lower plenum, but that will all come later but thought it would still be OK for the rockers....I have a 86 trans am WS6 tpi with mad...
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Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700-R-4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 open
Re: rocker arms
go with comp cams products. and unless youre building a full tilt race engine .their stamped steel roller tip rockers are great for a daily driver.should you want 1.6 rto ones check to see if you have clearance .sometimes they make the push rods rub the heads. their good for eliminating friction . which can increase fuel mileage a little
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Car: 1989 IROC & ROLL-Z
Engine: L98 Vortec FIRST TPI
Transmission: T56, Mech Speedo
Axle/Gears: G92 J65 3.27
Re: rocker arms
If you go from 1.5 to 1.6 ratio rockers, regardless of a roller tip or not, you're going to need different length push rods. The arc of rocker travel changes and will change your valve/rocker contact pattern. This will prematurely wear valve guides, etc.
The following is good information regarding stamped, roller tip rockers.
The following is good information regarding stamped, roller tip rockers.
I've used quite a number of sets of those rockers over the years; mostly in mostly stock builds. Had a set of them before they were available to the public in fact. The roller tip and the rigid body overcome 2 of the main shortcomings of stock stamped rubber rockers (weeeeeekness, and guide wear from the tip sliding across the stem tip) but doesn't address the 3rd which is the enormous amount of heat produced at the fulcrum. I prefer not to use them in "performance" builds for that reason. They're "OK", but just replacing them with full rollers, will lower the oil temp 5 - 10° all by itself.
I'd strongly suggest getting an adjustable push rod before you select your final length. You can even make your own out of a normal one; cut one in half, tap it out to ¼"-20, and put a piece of threaded rod in there. Then one turn of the halves = .050" (20 × .050" = 1.000"). Then adjust for the narrowest pattern; NOT the most centered. Find that, then use the closest length you can buy (they usually come in .050" increments) just shorter than "optimum". Reason for that is, the arc the push rod ttip swings through, would be perfectly centered on the motion of the valve, if the push rods was the perfect length; but, since you can't quite get it "perfect", make it so that when there's the most force on it (nearer full open) which in turn tends to put the most side loading on the guides, the arc is "straighter" than when there's less force on it.
I'd strongly suggest getting an adjustable push rod before you select your final length. You can even make your own out of a normal one; cut one in half, tap it out to ¼"-20, and put a piece of threaded rod in there. Then one turn of the halves = .050" (20 × .050" = 1.000"). Then adjust for the narrowest pattern; NOT the most centered. Find that, then use the closest length you can buy (they usually come in .050" increments) just shorter than "optimum". Reason for that is, the arc the push rod ttip swings through, would be perfectly centered on the motion of the valve, if the push rods was the perfect length; but, since you can't quite get it "perfect", make it so that when there's the most force on it (nearer full open) which in turn tends to put the most side loading on the guides, the arc is "straighter" than when there's less force on it.
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Car: 88 GTA "Cocaine"
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: rocker arms
I don't think you understand. hydraulic lifters collapse a little bit and don't give you the correct readings like a hyd lifter would give if it is pumped up with oil therefore when checking pushrod length you have to use a solid lifter
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Car: 1989 IROC & ROLL-Z
Engine: L98 Vortec FIRST TPI
Transmission: T56, Mech Speedo
Axle/Gears: G92 J65 3.27
Re: rocker arms
YOu can make a temporary solid lifter from your hydro lifters you currently have.
That's what I did
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=486838
That's what I did
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=486838
#10
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Re: rocker arms
I see what you mean...I thought you were saying Roller rockers or roller tipped rockers, required a solid lifter.
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