Transmissions and DrivetrainNeed help with your trans? Problems with your axle?
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I finnaly put the 355 in my car (see profile) and I have a nagging suspision that I am going to need a posi here very soon. (You see I haven't cranked it yet cause I'm hooking up ignitions and such this week). I just wondered if anyone has made their $99 torsen blow chunks with slicks. How strong are they? Thanks and *** Bless!
__________________ 1991 RS Camaro
-355
-Vortec Heads
-Performer Intake
-Comp Cams XE274H Cam
-Headman Full Length Headers
-Custom Y pipe with Pacesetter "modified" catback system
-750 Holley Vacum Secondary
- NOS sniper system
- 700r4 with goodies and manual valvebody
- 3.42 with take out slp torsen posi
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I'm running the HD Torsen with BFG drag radials, no breakage yet with 3 years and counting.
The Torsen really isn't a posi like conventional Auburn and whatnot, it doesn't mechanically lock both axles for output. Burnouts tend to be one wheel, then the other wheel, then back to the first wheel, etc. Granted they're better than open diff, but for all-out drag racing you'd want something else.
Now, on a road course, the Torsen really shows it's stuff. I can accelerate out of a turn with the pedal to the floor and not lose control. Do that with a mechanical posi and both wheels break loose, you're swapping ends.
Originally posted by kevinc
The Torsen really isn't a posi like conventional Auburn and whatnot, it doesn't mechanically lock both axles for output. Burnouts tend to be one wheel, then the other wheel, then back to the first wheel, etc.
Yeah, but that happens so fast its unnoticable. It's like the pulsing of an ABS motor. Lots of LS1 guys have run them well into the 11's on slicks without a problem from the Torsen. It's the other stuff that breaks
Well what about the OEM version of the torsen? How does it hold up and what are the differences between it and the heavy duty version? I mean there has to be a reason that it cost $400 dollars more...anyone running these?
Originally posted by kevinc I'm running the HD Torsen with BFG drag radials, no breakage yet with 3 years and counting.
The Torsen really isn't a posi like conventional Auburn and whatnot, it doesn't mechanically lock both axles for output. Burnouts tend to be one wheel, then the other wheel, then back to the first wheel, etc. Granted they're better than open diff, but for all-out drag racing you'd want something else.
Now, on a road course, the Torsen really shows it's stuff. I can accelerate out of a turn with the pedal to the floor and not lose control. Do that with a mechanical posi and both wheels break loose, you're swapping ends.
You mean I won't be laying even rubber on the pavement from both wheels If I decide to install my $99 takeoff!!
I have it and I lay even burnout tracks on the road and at the track, they always both spin. When It spins em in second it used to kick out to the right with the open junk but now just barks both of em going straight. The same thing in the rain. I avoided gettin stuck in some mud cause of my torsen so I trust it with my car.
__________________ 1991 Camaro Z28
L98 G92 Performance Package
All stock
ET 14.7 @ 93.2 MPH 1.91 60' in Albuquerque, NM Elev 5400 ft.
Dyno 231 RWHP 332 RWTQ
Originally posted by 91' Camaro Man I mean there has to be a reason that it cost $400 dollars more
There is a very good reason why its $400 more. The $99 version is USED and the HD units are NEW.
__________________ 1991 Trans Am WS6 Convertible,
1987 Trans Am GTA hardtop
1987 Trans Am CC1, LS1/T56 AFR 205 heads, Comp Cams, LS6 intake
2005 Honda CBR 600RR
2007 Yukon XL Denali
2007 Saab 9-3SS
Should I put one of these torsen's on my car? 89 firebird 305 TBI I believe I have the 700r4 automatic transmission. Will this thing work for me and should I put it in? Sorry, but another newbie here. I will be changing my differential fluid in a few months, is there anything cheap that you would recommend that I change or replace while I have the cover off?
My car is a 1989. So should I put in this differnetial or just keep the one that is in there?
if you read GMHTP they have MANY LS1 cars running high 10's and low 11's on the stock rear end and and torsen differential, and while its not really reliable for that much power its still working for the time being, so you will be perfectly fine and as for the wheels not spinning the same i had a 93 with factory posi, i dont know if its the exact same unit but its gotta be similar, and if wheels were spinning at different speeds i sure as hell didn't notice, the ONLY time it was a one tire fire was after i got a flat on the rear and had to drive home with the tiny donut, that causes the wheels to spin at different speeds, and when you do that for extended periods of time it will blow up the posi... and so after that occasionally it would only spin one during a burnout. also my friend has an 01 ss, and again if the wheels are spinning at different speeds i cant tell, so unless you plan on having over 450 RWHP id say just get the $99 unit. as for being used they seriously have less than 20 miles on them. and replace all the bearings and seals, if your doing it yourself its not that expensive
Originally posted by GASGZLR I avoided gettin stuck in some mud cause of my torsen so I trust it with my car.
i live within a mile of the beach, but when you park you have to park completely off the road.. in otherwords, on the sand..
ive managed to get stuck twice now with my vert... i keep getting the worse luck with parking there.. every time i get stuck, i have to get out and cup the sand out from in front of the tires to give it a nice even path to crawl out of.... if i had a posi, i could just drive out everytime
Friday night I will be testing my SLP unit with slicks. The original locker lasted 19 passes before it started slipping (used part). I am hoping this one will let me get better than 2.01 60' times.
Direct bolt in... just checked lash and changed bearings. Everything is ready to rock and roll. 305 is not a monster off the line so it should last. If I blow this sucker up, I am buying a 12 Bolt w/spool.
What I did was took an 87 v6 rear(3.42), got axles from a 90 firebird v6, removed the main bearings and cleaned them, bolted in the SLP unit, installed new seals and axle bearings, painted the case and poured in Pennzoil Synthetic 75W90.
I also installed all new brake and hose parts. For about $250, it's like having a brand new rear in the car. I love it!!
Last winter I took a 14% grade with 5" of snow in that car with that rear... it was mostly sideways, but I made it up the hill.
Where can I get one of the $99 take-off units? I looked over SLP's site and couldnt find any.
Also, I'm gonna install 3.73 gears at the same time. What size carrier should I buy them for? I'm sure the fourth-gen rears didnt have the wussy little 3.05's that I'm currently stuck with.
They were take-offs, as in SLP took them out of Camaro/Firebirds that they were upgrading to SS and Firehawks. Since they haven't built an SS or a Firehawk since 2003 they haven't had any take-offs come into thier stock since then. They've been out for over a year now.
I figured that, I just need to know where I can get one from anywhere. All I've been able to find fourth-gen rearend wise is the whole thing, which I dont want, I just want the diff.
Well I got an email about a frequent response on this topic that I posted forever ago. I now am using the take out unit with a pair of 3.42's I got off ebay out of an s10 for $12. I love the posi. It burns them both. I still haven't used it with slicks but I have gotten some pretty fierce 60' times with it and not even a hicup. The best run yet on the camaro is a 8.40 on the 1/8th and I've had it dynoed at 342 hp at the tires with about 400lb*ft of torque. It's been good to me. I didn't even put new bearings on it. I just strightened up the race and let it rip. Buy one!
Given that it's the stock carrier in the 98-up Camaro/Firebird except for the SLP cars, if you see one of those cars toast its rear at the track, that's what you're looking at.
Happens all the time.
Yeah you'll get those great 60's, time after time; and then one day, POP! and that will be the end of that. They rarely give any warning. So consider that every time you launch it and it doesn't break, you just got lucky, one more time. The posi itself isn't what usually breaks though; usually it's the gears, and they pretty much take everything out along with them.
__________________ Numquam ponenda est pluralitas sine necessitate. — William of Ockham, from Quaestiones et decisiones in quattuor libros Sententiarum Petri Lombardi
Roughly paraphrased into modern English, and applied to figuring out what's wrong with your car:
The simplest explanation that fits all the facts is probably the right one.
$99 diff did not last long. As soon as 350 made enough power to pull wheels, it broke. No problem w/axles, gears, tubes or bearings. The inside of torson broke worm gears. Bought 9 inch from Moser.
__________________ 1992 Camaro RS
350 cam, headers, manifold, 750 d/p carburator. Th-350, 5400 stall TC, Moser 9", 430 gears. Boxed LCA's, adjustable panhard bar, air bags.
Red Car (mine)
Best 350 ET: 7.18 1/8th mile 95.0 MPH. 1.52 60'
Best 305 ET: 8.01 1/8th mile. 85.45 MPH. 1.72 60'
Black Car (son)
6.88 1/8th mile 98.5 MPH 1.44 60'
6.41 1/8th 107.6 MPH 1.41 60' (125 N2O)
yea, its a nicer posi... but its still not strong enough to stay together when hooking any real power.
i went thru a few of them myself.. lol. now im going to a 9" with a locker.
im actually selling one of my backup 10bolt posi's if anyone is intrested....