Transmissions and DrivetrainNeed help with your trans? Problems with your axle?
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
ok, so i am driving down the road, and i go to shift push the clutch and it works ..... but i hear a click/snap noise like metal heating up or cooling down verry rappidly, like that. so i change gears clutch out, all is well. drive down the road a bit clutch in again, louder noise, more like a snap this time, souned like a cable or spring breaking. clutch pedal goes to the floor effortlessly but clutch is still out. can't get the car out of gear, so i wrestle it out of gear (yank hard!)coast to a stop. try the clutch, it stays on the floor. upon inspection (had car towed home) there is a rod the pedal pushes on at the top,this rod is suposed to push the top of the pedal toward the firewall, and thus (since it is on a pivot) force the bottom of the pedal back toward me. well it no longer does that.
so what i need to know, is,
1. what did i break
2. how much is it going to cost me (parts only, i do work)
3. how hard to fix
4. is this my fault, did i mistreat my baby? or do these things "just happen"
thanks guys, i can't drive till i fix this, anny help would be great.
Is your linkage hydraulic (84-up) or mechanical (82-83) style?
So the pedal is just kinda hanging there, swinging back and forth and the rod isn't moving?
Pull the trim panel off, and see what, if anything falls out to the floor.
One of two things then...the retaining clip may have broken off and allowed the eye of the pushrod to slip off the pivot; or the pivot itself either wore through, or broke off the pedal arm.
The retaining clip is easy to replace; the pedal arm is a pain as it requires much dexterity to work in the limited space between the wiring.
is an 86. and the trim panal is allready off. the pedal and pivot (part where pedal ataches to firewall, right?) are fine. more details on the otherting you said would be cool. thanks for responding
__________________ Member/Moderator @ www.cascadecrew.org
1986 base BIRD LB8_2.8L_V6 17.4@76MPH. mods:
4th-gen console, 2002 cavalier front seats, 140MPH speedo, completly de-cluttered engine bay, lots of "free" mods. complete front suspension and stearing rebuild. Custom Cold Air Intake.
1988 Trans Am GTA 5.7L TPI L98 14.3@97MPH. mods:
base model spoiler, 4th gen console, 4th gen charcol leather seats, free mods, 89+ rear disc brakes, SLP shorty headers and Y-pipe, full 3" hooker catback, WCT-5 trannsmission, centerforce dual friction clutch. COMING SOON: 4th gen doorhandles, custom transsmisssion crossmember, SFCs, 98+ front brakes.
your master cylinder or slave cylinder or a hose has busted, check under the car on your bell housing to see if the slave cylinder is ok, you can replace all the parts yourself, it's easy but takes some time, remember you have to bleed the entire system afterwards
__________________ 1986 Camaro 305 TPI Conversion, Accel Base / Runners / AFPR, Holley 52mm TB, FMS 42# Injectors, 7749 with $59 3-bar map, WP 305 S/R Torquer Heads, Crane Powermax 2032 Roller cam, CompCams 1.6 Magnum Roller Rockers, Hedman Coated Headers, Edelbrock Cat-Back, Tremec TKO-600 with CF DF Clutch, Lakewood Scattershield, Moser 12 Bolt 3.73 Posi rear, Spohn LCA's & Relocation brackets, Lakewood adj panhard. 36/24 Swaybars, Spohn Subframe Connectors, Spohn TKO Crossmember with DS Loop, Spohn Steel Driveshaft, Hotchkis Strut Brace, Eibach Pro-Kit, Tokico Illumina Struts and Shocks, Procharger D1SC 12#'s, LS1 Brakes Front, Wilwood Pro Series Rear. 381HP/400FT/LB's on 10#'s of boost