Transmissions and DrivetrainNeed help with your trans? Problems with your axle?
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thanks, I had the first one saved in my ebay already. Just thought a Vette one might be a little better. not sure what lenght mine is but the vette one is 33"
Why not a fourth gen one. They are the same as the 1LE and easier to find!!!
__________________ 1985 Camaro SC
2.8L V6
Blaze Red Color
no cat
custom y pipe
Dynomax cat back exhaust
Hedman Headers
Rebuilt front end with PST, hotchkis adjustable tie rod adjusters, 34mm front sway bar and 24mm rear sway bar, KYB shocks and struts, tubular spherical rodended panhard bar, BMR rear lower control arms, wonderbar, Alston SFCs
LS1 aluminum driveshaft
Perfect original interior
74,000 Original miles
the 4th gen stock aluminum units are a lot nicer then any other OE shaft GM used. the aluminum stock shafts in the 4th gens are made by three rivers american axle and manufacturing. their nice, 3" tubing vs 2.5 of the 3rd gen alum shaft. forged yokes, and a harmonic balancer. i just got one for 125 dollars, 146 shipped:
__________________ 1989 Ultra Blue Metallic Hardtop IROC - All Motor Stick Car Build
Last edited by SLP IROC-Z; 06-03-2007 at 06:00 PM.
Originally posted by SLP IROC-Z the 4th gen stock aluminum units are a lot nicer then any other OE shaft GM used. the aluminum stock shafts in the 4th gens are made by three rivers american axle and manufacturing. their nice, 3" tubing vs 2.5 of the 3rd gen alum shaft. forged yokes, and a harmonic balancer. i just got one for 125 dollars, 146 shipped:
With air and a lift, it's about a 2-minute job. It takes me about 3 times as long to put my car's rear on jack stands (floor jack under the center section, 2 stands under the axle tubes) as it does to change the drive shaft.
__________________ "So many Mustangs, so little time..."
Originally posted by RB83L69 Hardly even a bolt-in.... more of a slap-in.
With air and a lift, it's about a 2-minute job. It takes me about 3 times as long to put my car's rear on jack stands (floor jack under the center section, 2 stands under the axle tubes) as it does to change the drive shaft.
And swapping to the aluminium drive shaft reduces the vibrations at high speeds on the highway (due to less rotational mass)? Cause that would be nice. My car shakes like Janet Reno after 75mph.
Yes, it seems to.... think about it..... 10% balance error in that light shaft causes about as much vibes as 3% balance error in a heavier steel shaft....
__________________ "So many Mustangs, so little time..."
i got a bad vibration at 80-88 mph (the fastest ive gone in the 1/4) and ive been thinkin of gettin a alumin drive shaft, i just gotta mesure mine to see if its the same lenght as the 4th gen since i got a th350 tranny.
also do all 4th gens with v8's have the alumin driveshaft or is it just the 4th gen LS1's?
Originally posted by RB83L69 Yes, it seems to.... think about it..... 10% balance error in that light shaft causes about as much vibes as 3% balance error in a heavier steel shaft....
Man... that would be a great ride quality enhancer for only $150
The LS1 shaft is by far the slickest option. Great reputation for ride comfort as they come balanced real well and also employ a harmonic dampner, great for fast reving rpm motors. Considering that the LS1 F-Bodys ran the most advanced small block to date one could assume that GM had a design team put alot of thought into choosing a driveshaft as well. Not to mention there are a ton of LS1 cars running 11s on that shaft.
I run one. 150$, bought local. There is a 4th gen wrecker that slings em here in Phoenix, they are for sale all over the net as well.
i just put in a ls1 driveshaft in.. picked it up around 150 ro so shipped. the only thing i will say is that its a bit hard to put in with a 3inch exhaust without taking anything off. however that said i did it and im very happy with it. i agree its the best option by far over the 2.5 aluminum one.
__________________ 91 RS mods: 342 posi rear, spohn lca's and panhard rod with relocation brackets,ls1 driveshaft, built 700r4 trans with slp 2400 converter, b+m trans cooler, stewart stage 2 water pump, 1 5/8 edelbrock headers with 3' flowmaster exaust, 3 inch catco cat, i , msd distributor and msd wires, walbro 190 fuel pump, 58 mm throttle body, slp runners, ported stock intake. ac delete.
* Putting her together after 5 yrs of sitting . 350 tpi going in finally!
its alot more stable at higher speeds then before and better accerlation all across the RPM's... its a nice very stable drivshaft .
__________________ 91 RS mods: 342 posi rear, spohn lca's and panhard rod with relocation brackets,ls1 driveshaft, built 700r4 trans with slp 2400 converter, b+m trans cooler, stewart stage 2 water pump, 1 5/8 edelbrock headers with 3' flowmaster exaust, 3 inch catco cat, i , msd distributor and msd wires, walbro 190 fuel pump, 58 mm throttle body, slp runners, ported stock intake. ac delete.
* Putting her together after 5 yrs of sitting . 350 tpi going in finally!
one more thing to note, i think its a biot strong then the stock 2.5 inch aluminum drivesafts . also if it can hadle an ls1 motor, it can hadle alot of of mods with a 3rd gen.. heck you could even swap to a bigger motor and be fine.....
It is my understanding that the V6 cars employ 2 pc. driveshafts. I'm not sure that would work well with out alot of effort, provided it was the same length.
Think one would fit in mine? Th 350, still using the same dive shaft from the original motor ( th 200 ) and it fits fine in the th 350, but i think the th 700r4 have a shorter shaft??? not sure, but think i read that in a manual somewhere.
No, the aluminum shafts are a different length than the 200 shaft; so if your 350 uses that shaft, it won't fit the Al one.
One of the 350 lengths does fit it, I believe it's the one with the 9" tail, but I'm not positive of that. It is not however the one that's the same length as the 200.
__________________ "So many Mustangs, so little time..."