Transmissions and DrivetrainNeed help with your trans? Problems with your axle?
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Hey guys I am gonna be getting and tremec soon and want to put an end to this madness.. I have used pepboys ( LUK) Adavance(federal mogel) and a hayes that came in my clutch kit and all of them have whistled. ITs really annoying and makes my car sound like a peice... Now I am gonna change my flywheel and clutch disc when I do the trans cause the only has liek 3000 miles on it so the pressure plate should be fine.. Now who makes a good throw-out bearing that won't whistle?? thanks guys also the flywheels cut if it matters.. thanks
__________________ 1989 Firebird Formula, (used to be L03)
355
Flat tops (9.5:1)
Vortec heads (Z28 Springs)
PerformerRPM Intake
Holley 750 Double Pumper
Edelbrock Double Roller timing chain
CompCams XE274
MSD 6AL Ignition box
MSD Pro-Billet Dist.
MSD Blaster-3 coil
Mallory afpr
Tremec TKO-600
Hedman longtubes
Accel 8mm wires
Jegster sub frame connectors
3.73 posi 10-bolt
Lakewood LCA
Edelbrock Panhard rod
Spohn Extreme-Duty driveshaft
Hayes performance clutch
ASCD 2" cowl
Lakewood 90/10 drag struts and
Moroso dragsprings
rear v-6 springs
12.70 @ 107 with crappy 2 1/4 y-pipe stock suspention and a bad tune
i know what your problem is 89, i had the same issue. you need to bleed your hydro assy. what the deal is the throw out rides on the press plate and being its neeing bled the slave is backed off just enough for it to squeek.
get the car up in the air, fill the resivor up and get under with an allen wrench. there is a small set screw where the supply tube enters the slave cyl.
open the screw and push the piston in and then close it, when the piston goes back out its drawing fluid back in. do this a few times and it should be fixed. having a friend up top watching the fluid level helps you from going back and forth. ya dont need to pull the fork or remove anything.
you might hafta do this another time or 2 as it will settle over time but it will go away. mine has and all is good.
__________________ Richard
89 formula WS6 LB9 T-5
83 T/A 350 T-5
run it wide open till ya see g o d "THEN" brake!!
so pretty much just press on the clutch fork till the rod bottoms out inside the slave??? then crack the bleeder or open it then push it in and close it and let it go back out?? thanks man
open screw, push piston in (yup till it bottoms), shut screw, let piston out. dont let the piston out or move until you have the set screw back in or you will suck air back in.
also you dont hafta "kill" tigten it, just snug or barely a hair better.
__________________ Richard
89 formula WS6 LB9 T-5
83 T/A 350 T-5
run it wide open till ya see g o d "THEN" brake!!
Originally posted by 91formulaSS That worked for me too, temporarily, after a few months the chirping comes back. I think that trick is just masking another problem. maybe
Mine came back (not as loud) after the first time I did it, but the second time I took the fork off and made sure to get grease all over the ball stud. Hasn't come back yet.
What kind of problem do you think could cause this? There is a very slight pulsing in the pedal when I just barely press it that seemed to corelate to the chirping. The clutch also chatters after being run for awhile.
iv heard about the pivit ball issue before as well. that was the second thing i did after replacing the throw out and it didnt help. i finally called a local clutch/starter/alt rebuilder and he told me about a similar issue with the S-10.
i bled the system and it went away and every rare often it will lightly chirp and then go away. its a far cry from what it once was.
__________________ Richard
89 formula WS6 LB9 T-5
83 T/A 350 T-5
run it wide open till ya see g o d "THEN" brake!!