i am wanting to replace a front seal before i install my axle and i cannot remove the nut. on a search i saw someone say stick something in the carrier. is that the best way to do it? any other tricks? thanks

The correct way:
There is a tool that bolts to the pinion and has a long lever. There is a hole in the center so you can put a socket on the nut.

Since you don't have the tool:
I would try putting two bolts in the pinion and using a large prybar wedged between the bolts to keep it from turning while you break the nut loose. An impact wrench would also work. Be sure and mark the nut and pinion so you can put it back where it was (plus about an extra 1/16"). There is a crush sleeve inside and it you want it loaded like it was before you removed the nut.

Since you're a human (I assume?), make yourself a tool. All you need is a piece of steel strip stock about 3-4' long, maybe 1½" x ¼"; and a drill bit slightly larger than 3/8" (I use a 25/64"). Then bolt it to one side of the yoke.

Don't try to jam stuff in the carrier. Terrible embarrassing things can happen, like when it breaks off and gets stuck.

thanks. ill give it a try this weekend.

meh, I just put a socket where the yoke wants to move and the emeregency brake on and that forced it in place when I broke the nut free.

a good impact gun is your friend...

i drilled 2 holes in an old lawnmower blade and used that hold it. it came right off but then the yoke would not move. so after an hour of trying and a lot of filthy language i called a shop and for $175 they will rebuild the entire rear end if i supply the parts.

what is the secret to removing the yoke? or is it just screwed up?

Frozen on (rust, age, etc.). You probably need a puller to press it off. Might be able to use a balancer puller if it will fit.

A good pry bar at the back of the Yoke (on a solid piece of metal) and a Big hammer. It will come off and it doesn't destroy the Yoke.

The Yoke is not screwed on, it has splines as shown in the Pic above.

I don't know about $175 for the shop. If pry bar sounds too violent, el chipo gear puller from Harbor Freight ($10 ??) does the job nicely. The yoke was designed from the factory to be used with a 2-jaw puller. That's why it has the indents on both sides.

Also no one mentioned this yet, but when you put the pinion nut back on, you will need to correctly set the preload (how tight the tappered bearings are). This is done by tightening the nut with a NEW crush sleeve, but for that you will need to take out the carrier. If it is not within spec, you might destroy bearings and/or gears.

Or maybe, you don't have to do this. I see there is at least one professional in this thread already, so I'll let someone else chime in.

The pry bar will not hurt the Yoke or Pinion. Now if you hit it 2 or 3 times and it doesn't move, then yes a puller is adviced. You can reuse crush sleeves if you know what you're doing (rebuilt rears before).

I have been told that once the pinion nut is removed that a new one should be used upon re-assembly... is this statement true?

SHOULD, yes. I re-used mine...

I've been told, if you do have to reuse it, at least use locktite. But I can't image a nut being more than a few bucks (mine was part of a complete rebuild kit, so I don't know for sure)