Transmissions and DrivetrainNeed help with your trans? Problems with your axle?
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So if it is ill adjusted I do not have to worry about it burning up my transmission like a 700r4's TV cable? I am just worried that it has something to do with the line pressure. If it doesn't then I am not worried about its adjustments.
Buddy of mines truck never even had the kickdown cable hooked up. So I guess it can't be that important.
To follow are the symptoms of a misadjusted throttle cable, along with the correct adjustment procedure for 700-R4 & 200-C trannys, that I originally gave to someone else in this forum. I believe the procedure for adjusting your TH350 will be very similar...
The purpose of the throttle cable (to the trans) is to tell the tranny how far the accelerator has been depressed, to assist it in knowing when to upshift (or downshift).
If the throttle cable is not pulled far enough (out of the cable housing) during acceleration, shifts will occur too late. (The tranny "thinks" the accelerator pedal is not depressed as much as it actually is.)
If the throttle cable it is pulled out too far during accelleration, shifts will occur too early. (The tranny "thinks" the accelerator pedal is depressed more than it actually is.)
The throttle cable to the tranny is supposed to run through a bracket at the carb (or throttle body, if so equipped). There is a spring-loaded tab (for 700-R4's and 200-C's - the tab on mine is silver) that you push in while pulling the cable housing back. This puts the maximum amount of tension/travel on the cable. Then simply get in the car and slowly press the gas pedal (engine off) all the way to the floor. This will allow the cable/housing to "self-adjust" to the correct position. The idea is to have the cable pulled just to the end of its travel at WOT.
Don't stomp the gas pedal - just press slowly. Stomping the pedal may result in the housing being pulled back (towards the carb/throttle body) too much, resulting in late shifts again...
Hope this helps...
__________________ '87 IROC 350 T.P.I. (L-98) w/t-tops: K & N's, MAF minus screens, throttle body coolant bypass, 180 thermo, Accel H.O. coil & 8.8 mm wires, 24 lb. injectors, Edelbrock headers w/3" cat-back & Flowmaster, 700R-4 w/Transgo shift kit w/Corvette servo, Borg-Warner posi, Koni adjustable racing struts & shocks, Competition Engineering subframe connectors, Hotchkis performance strut tower brace, Aadco polyurethane sway bar bushings/link kits/control arm bushings, w/Sumitomo HTR 50-Z's (P255-50/ZR16's)
Thanks. That is how I always adjusted my TV cable. Still fried two 700r4's. From what I can tell the kickdown cable on a th350 isn't quiet as important to the tranny as the TV cable is to a 700r4.
Originally posted by 88Camaro350 So if it is ill adjusted I do not have to worry about it burning up my transmission like a 700r4's TV cable? I am just worried that it has something to do with the line pressure. If it doesn't then I am not worried about its adjustments.
Line pressure in the TH350 is controlled by the vacuum modulator, the kickdown cable has nothing to do with it. If you don't mind manually downshifting, you can even leave it disconnected if you want.
I will hook it up. I am just glad I don't have to worry about it. I am pretty sure the TCI trans comes with a adjustable modulator also. I assume I will have to adjust it to shift when I want it? Or at least to a degree?
You could try, but since it's going to shift at the same amount of throttle opening you set it to all the time there probably isn't all that much point.
5. ALWAYS install and adjust any required TV or kickdown cables exactly according to the instructions. INADEQUATE PRESSURE WILL QUICKLY DESTROY YOUR TRANSMISSION. Refer to enclosed instructions and/or vehicle service manual.
I think they say that because people will leave it in 3rd gear and floor it from a stop or low speed and damage the trans. If you dont downshift it to the right gear for your speed before you hammer it then the trans will slip and it will cause damage.
I'm gonna ask my friend if they sell those plugs. If anything I might have an extra plug soon. When I get the shift kit installed I'm thinking about hooking up a kickdown cable. I've never done a shift kit so I dont want to try it alone, but I am gonna watch and help.
I bought a cable...but it was for a truck and didn't fit. And it was a major PITA installing it with the transmission in. I may just run it as is for now. Least it won't leak.
If I am going to hammer it I am going to shift down. Thats what I always do. That could have been why I kill 700r4's fairly fast.
I am almost done with the swap...been sort of a PITA. Having to track down the driven gear housing, then trying to install the b&m changeover kit with the tranny in place...its been fun. Would have been done by now but I decided to pull my motor, change the timing chain, and paint everything.
Yeah I'm really happy with the swap. My stock 700R4 died really quick but the stock TH350 has been holding up strong. MPG is the only downside, not having an overdrive gear on the freeway hurts. But as far as the performance aspects, its great. Not only is the TH350 alot cheaper, its also stronger stock vs stock, and 1st gear pulls harder (different ratio from 700R4 first gear). A built 700R4 would be great but this route was alot cheaper.
I can't wait to feel my car with a good transmission and a decent stall. I'm sure it will feel a lot stronger than with a dieing 700r4 and 150k milage stock TC.
I dunno what to say, 1st gear pulls way harder with the TH350. I race my friend with his L98/700R4 and I pull him in first (motors are pretty much the same, both stock). Maybe the 700R4 in my IROC was already on its last legs by the time I got the car (it did break shortly after, but understandable since I flogged it). The rearend is the B/W 9 bolt with the low 2.77 gears. I didnt put in higher gears because the 9 bolt stuff is way too expensive. For the same price of just 9 bolt gears I was able to buy all the parts for a complete 10 bolt setup suited towards my needs (mini-spool, gears, and c-clip elim) plus a backup 10 bolt with backup axles, just need to put it all together.
Originally posted by 88Camaro350 This is on TCI's website
5. ALWAYS install and adjust any required TV or kickdown cables exactly according to the instructions. INADEQUATE PRESSURE WILL QUICKLY DESTROY YOUR TRANSMISSION. Refer to enclosed instructions and/or vehicle service manual.
bought a cable...but it was for a truck and didn't fit. And it was a major PITA installing it with the transmission in. I may just run it as is for now. Least it won't leak.
If I am going to hammer it I am going to shift down. Thats what I always do. That could have been why I kill 700r4's fairly fast.
Your going to need a cable for a Monte Carlo or Caprice 1980 would be a safe bet and it has to be for a 4bbl to reach since the 2bbl are shorter.
It is better to have the cable installed since it shifts for you, minor lag time manually shifting could cause a bog that overtime could cause damage but its not likely.
__________________ 1976 SWB C10 3/4 drop, gen VI 454/M3.
1973 Buick Apollo wifes play car. Chevy 383/S3.
Originally posted by CrazyHawaiian I was able to buy all the parts for a complete 10 bolt setup suited towards my needs (mini-spool, gears, and c-clip elim)
off topic but may I ask where you got c-clip elim's at? for a 7.5" ten bolt?
Both Strange and Moser make the kits for 7.5" 10bolts with stock axles. You can get them through catalogs like Summit or even local shops, should be around $150 or so.