Transmissions and DrivetrainNeed help with your trans? Problems with your axle?
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Things you need to know about 700R4/2004R and the TV cable
Basic Check list
1. Correct WOT
2. Correct TV cable adjustment
3. Instant pressure rise
TV System
1. TV Cable controls the pressures in your tranny which also determines your shifting properties
2. You can not adjust your TV cable to get harder/later shifts, or softer/earlier shifts, you will destroy your tranny or you will not have a properly working tranny.
3. If your tranny isnt shiftinf right, such as, when you romp on it and it doesnt down shift, you need to look at your TV cable, but that isnt all. Inside your valve body, there is a spring that controls the TV plunger, over time these become worn and shorten, they must be replaced! If your tranny builder didnt put
a new one in, then you need to take it back and have them do it.
700R4/2004R & Aftermarket Carb/Throttle Body
1. If you have an aftermarket carb or throttle body in front of your 700R4/2004R, then you need a kit to fix the relationship between the linkage and your TV plunger. The aftermarket setups were NOT designed to work with 700R4/2004R trannies and if you leave it the way it is, you will ruin your tranny.
TV Cable setup
1. First check for WOT, undo the TV cable from the linkage. Have a helper in the cab mash the gas pedal to the floor, now, try to open the linkage more by hand, if you can open it more then you do not have correct WOT and need to get a new throttle cable or find what the problem is.
2. Connect your TV cable back up, then, push the green (might be different color) button in and slide the plastic housing as far back as it will go towards the tranny. You might have a slider lock TC cable, same thing applies, just undo the slide lock and push the housing back.
3. Have your helper masht he throttle again, the TV cable will auto adjust itself.
4. Now the TV cable is properly set! DO NOT ADJUST IT!!
TV & Pressures
1. Again, your TV cable controls the pressures in your valve body, if the cable it out of adjustment, you will not be getting proper pressures, this can cause burnt clutches and over heating if the cable it out too much, or really hard late bang shifts at light throttle if the cable is in too much.
2. After any adjustments to the TV system, you need to put a 0-300PSI pressure gauge on the pressure port on the driver side of the tranny, you should use a 90* elbow and route it over the crossmember up into the driver's window.
3. You should get INSTANT pressure rise on even the slightest tug on the TV cable. If you dont, then your setup isnt correct and you will burn clutches. Your pressures while driving will vary depending on your tranny builder and how you drive. Obviously, higher RPM will show higher pressures
4. THESE TRANNIES ARE HYDRAULIC CONTROLLED DEVICES, NOT USING A PRESSURE GAUGE IS LIKE NOT USING A VOLT METER TO SEE IF YOU HAVE CORRECT VOLTAGE!
Power
1. Stock 700R4's can handle about 300HP/TQ, they can be built to hold upto 650HP/TQ. There are companies who claim 1000HP, but who knows. Why you would want an overdrive in a 1000HP car is beyond me.
2. Builders claim to use all sorts of cool sounding parts. Parts are parts, but builders are not equal! Do research!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Series
1. There are 3 differnt types of 700R4/2004R trannies, series 3 88-92 is the best and only one you should have, it has all of the fixes/upgrades GM has done to these trannies. The series 1 and series 2 are not worth building or upgrading to a series 3.
Shifting
1. The computer DOES NOT control shifting, the governor in the tranny does. To change the WOT shift point, change the governor spring. Stock spring will shift around 5000.
2. Shift kits are a load of BS.
Lockup
1. Lockup occurs when the tranny goes into 4th gear, a 12+ supply to the 'D' pin will provide power to a solenoid that provides the hydraulics to the converter to lockup. You can do this with a toggle switch for lockup in 2nd, 3rd as well. The converter unlocks when the brakes are applied, this breaks the circuit and the solenoid deactivates. You can not lockup in 1st gear, there is no hydraulic circuit available.
Life span
1. These trannies, if taken care of can see up to 400,000 miles (under perfect conditions)
2. On average you should get 200,000 miles if setup correctly.
Fluid
1. Fluid should be changed every 7000 miles
2. To properly change your fluid (this only applies if you have a drain plug in the pan), start the car, open the drain plug and start draining while at the same time, slowly pouring in new fluid, you should have 7qt of new fluid. On the 6th quart, turn the car off, plug the drain plug and top it off. This allows you to flush the system with new fluid. It is not dangerous if you are paying attention.
3. Heat related issues are discussed in another thread http://thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthre...hreadid=244064
These are just a few important tips and bits of info you need to know before saying that the trannies suck. They dont, they just have to be setup correctly.
I will add/edit if I can think of anything else or find a mistake I've made.
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I'm going to have to disagree with ya' there, Bruce. Those who have dropped the pan to drain the fluid know that you will end up with transmission oil EVERYWHERE, unless of course you have a nice drain plug to drain it from. While it is true that you have to remove the pan eventually, the drain plug will save you having to clean up a mini Exxon Valdez oil slick.
Thanks for the info, 88Import, as I need to set my TV cable for my new tranny!
Originally posted by iceman02 I'm going to have to disagree with ya' there, Bruce. Those who have dropped the pan to drain the fluid know that you will end up with transmission oil EVERYWHERE, unless of course you have a nice drain plug to drain it from. While it is true that you have to remove the pan eventually, the drain plug will save you having to clean up a mini Exxon Valdez oil slick.
Thanks for the info, 88Import, as I need to set my TV cable for my new tranny!
Apparently you did not read my post. Both the fluid and filter has to be changed. You have to remove the pan in order to replace the filter. Replacing the fluid and not replcaing the filter is a big mistake!!!!!!!!!!!
Originally posted by BruceEmbry Apparently you did not read my post. Both the fluid and filter has to be changed. You have to remove the pan in order to replace the filter. Replacing the fluid and not replcaing the filter is a big mistake!!!!!!!!!!!
apparentley you didnt read HIS post, he said that it's best to have a drain plug so you can drain the fluid BEFORE removing the pan, again, you dont want to clean up a big huge mess.
And yes, you can change your fluid every 24000 miles, but everyone else is going to be smart and do it the right way. However, you should change your filter every 24000 or so. You dont have to change the filter every 7000 miles.
btw: new drian plug, like $10 if that. Time, 5-15 minutes if you have the pan off already to change the fluid and filter...
Originally posted by 82knightrider So theres 3rd gens that came with factory ATF drain plugs Where can I get one of those kind of pans?
not that I know of. My tranny does, it was built by Bowtie. The install drain plugs in all their pans. Just get a drain plug for $10 or less and install it into your pan, hell you can use a freaking wood screw if you wanted to.
I follow the guide, pulling the adjustor all the way out. when you mash the throttle it is supposed to click into the right position. mine just stays stuck where I put it. I lubricated it , with the same effect.
Originally posted by Toehead I follow the guide, pulling the adjustor all the way out. when you mash the throttle it is supposed to click into the right position. mine just stays stuck where I put it. I lubricated it , with the same effect.
you said pull out, you need to push in towards the transmission/rear of car. Make it shorter, not longer.
Where can I get one of those kind of pans? 
hahahh. thanks man. 
