I was wondering who is still running the stock 10 bolt and has about 300 rwhp. I am planning on replacing my lb9 with a carb'd 355/th350 combo and I was wondering if I HAVE to get a diffrent rear. The car will only be ran on the street so there won't be any hard launches happening. The car is a 86 z28 and has a posi rear, other than that I don't know anything else about it. Thanks, Charlie

See my sig, No official numbers, but I run a ten bolt. I also have sprayed 100shot on my old 350 on this axle.

1992 RS w/ Stock 10-bolt with a procharged 350h.o. = 400whp and no problems yet with an eaton posi. I run sticky street tires (BFG KD's ) but they break loose when boost hits so I'v never really shocked the rear. You shouldn't have any problems with 300whp.

500+ HP and 560+ torque at the wheels on my 4th gen LT1. I run Mickey Thompson ET Streets out back every day (they're the only tires I use on the car) and spray 150 off the line. 2800 stall converter. 3.73 gears.

Did so for 5+ years and not one single protest from the 10 bolt. Only mods are an aluminum girdle.

The 10 bolt is the one part on the car which hasn't broke.

Actually, no, that's not entirely true. I did break a few teeth off the 3.42 gears I had at one point. I never even knew I broke them until the day I opened the carrier to install the 3.73's. I was like holy crap! My gears are broken

10 bolts have been given a bad rap and I don't know why. Sure, they're not as strong as a 9" or 12 bolt, but on an automatic equipped car, they can handle a lot of power, even on slicks. I would reccomend a girdle though. They're cheap, easy to install, and do provide additional strength.

You may want to upgrade the axles for even more strength if you want, but it's not a must.

How much power do you expect to be making?

87 TA has a 10bolt with aftermarket posi i believe and girdle. he makes somewhere around 500whp with a 406. and he's running a T56 now, pulled a few 1.5 60 foots. his old auto combo went 1.38

I was making 400hp on the motor, about 310rwhp.

I have an aluminum girdle and welded my axle tubes.

No breakage yet....

I'm not sure how much power it will put out its not going to be a monster just a 355 with a lunati voodoo cam 241/249 .525/546 , heads are the old double humps and the guy i'm buying them from said he had them on a engine that ran 7.0's in the 1/8 so they should be decent. Long tubes, weiand xcererator intake, holley 650 carb. Make not make 300 rwhp but somewhere in that range. I'm still debating on putting headers on the lb9 and getting a supercharger.

thats a big cam...that motor will want more than 650 cfm carb, and definately want good flowing heads. unless those old double humps are fullly ported, then i'd get somethign else to maximize that combo. that should make well over 300 at the wheels

I run about 400 on the wheels with a 97 4th gen rear, 3.42's, aubun pro posi. no problems at all. the only issue i had was the axle on the driver's side was a little warped and i didn't know it. the car i got it from was in a wreck and slammed into a curb... so the axle ate the bearings alive. i was only out about $110 in bearings, all told. I scored a brand new GM axle for free to replace the driver's side. my gears and posi are great, and noise free. I don't even have a girdle yet.

11.72 on mine with 1.6X 60fts, but it's built.

...

Pretty cool.
Thats my motto..
Break it then fix it.
Still running the 9 Bolt, will upgrade when it dies..

I made about 150 passes with 60's in the mid 1.6 range before this happened:

Sweet vid trevor, nice car too.

I broke my bone stock 10bolt the first time i got on it, that was with around 400rwhp and street tires. I also think that the rear was already on its way out.
If you beef up the 10Bolt there are some great write ups on this forum.

First I was running my bone stock 3.42 open 6-cyl rear, then I put in a bone stock 3.23 posi disc rear and still going. I ran the open diff until about 6 months ago and I've had the car for over 10 years. I upgraded to upgrade, not cause it broke though. I'm probably pushing just over 300 to the wheels.

There are a few hundred thousand 4th gen LS1 cars with over 300 hp. They all came from the factory with a 10 bolt. They had stronger gears than our old cars, but none the less still the same base axle.

Ouch Trev, thats gotta hurt.

For your application though you should be fine. Rears typically break when you get sudden traction and all that force is put on everything at once. For street, you'll be fine.

Over 300Hp on the ground with the auto, so more with the Stick I have now.

Eaton Posi, Richmond 3.73, Welded Tubes, Solid Pinion Spacer, Support girdle with pre-loads, synthetic fluid.

Fine on the street. Launch at 3k with drag radials, snapped an axle.
Replace axle, launch again, snap axle and pinion gear.

Conclusion = 10 bolt fine without slicks.

Going with a 9" so I can launch at 4500rpm like my motor wants to see what my ET will really be.



You can't get enough tractions with street tires to hurt these rears when you have alot of power.

1.66 60fts here on 315/35/17 Nitto dr's. - They're still pretty much a street tire. - My 10 bolt is moser axles, Detroit tru-trac, Yukon 3.73, welded tubes, DTS cover with homemade back brace. It'll soon be receiving either a 4.10 or a 4.56, a solid spacer and c-clip elims...when it breaks it'll then receive an invite to the dumpster....

whatevers not broke, part it out! lol

after racing about every weekend for the last 4 or 5 years mine finally broke lastnight. i don't know how much horsepower but it ran 13.50's with a stock 10 bolt with 2.73 gears for the last year and a half or so. before that it was just the stock 305 so that probably didn't hurt it any. i was kind of surprised that it lasted as long is it did running low 1.80 60's and the way i drive. i needed more gear and a posi anyways but i was hoping to wait a little longer, at least now i have all winter to fix it.

If you have an auto you are good to go with the 10bolt.
Manuals wreak havoc on the 10bolts.
My old 96 Trans Am M6 with 288RWHP went through 13 rear ends (never broke at the track, just on the street with BFG KDW's), converted to auto with 3600stall and 315/35/17 BFG KD's and it hasn't broken one yet.

I broke my built 10 bolt in my 88 Formula (probably only has 160rhwp).

i just dont understand how a manual car running 1.8x 60 foots will do more damage than a auto high stalled car doing 1.6x 60 foots. manual may apply the power force alot quicker to the trans and thus rearend but the auto car is applyin alot more force in general.

The torque converter preloads the axle while a manual transmission gives it a full shock of torque all at once.

yeah still i thought the higher overall power of the quicker 60 foot car would hurt the rear just as much

I had an 87 305 TPI auto 2.73's mostly stock that I bought with 113k. At about 120k, I was racing in Philly on 11th when my rear started making a noise. It sounded like a bad u-joint. I raced one more time and it got louder. I made it home and the next day while driving to my friends house to check it out, I blew off a chunk of the pinion. Who knows what the privious owner did to the car, but it was bone stock when I bought it and I always ran street tires. So there's a low power horror story for the old 10 bolt.

my old 10 bolt had a used set of 3.73s with an auburn posi and that went my very first run.. wheelhop is a b.i.t.c.h.. that was with a stock torque arm.. on $hitty a$$ kumho street tires.. i have since upgraded my entire rear suspension and drivetrain.. 9" and a g-force t-5 tranny.. no wheelhop anymore and no fear of breaking anything.. your 10 bolt should hold up as long as you have NO WHEELHOP, and a good set of gears and a decent diff.. that was my problem, the used set of gears.. aftermarket axles would be a good investment also.. but they are not entirely needed.. oh ya, one more thing, an aluminum girdle would help the cause..