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Old 10-01-2006, 12:27 AM   #1
streetheatz28
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Anyone with around 300 rwhp still on stock 10 bolt??

I was wondering who is still running the stock 10 bolt and has about 300 rwhp. I am planning on replacing my lb9 with a carb'd 355/th350 combo and I was wondering if I HAVE to get a diffrent rear. The car will only be ran on the street so there won't be any hard launches happening. The car is a 86
z28 and has a posi rear, other than that I don't know anything else about it.

Thanks, Charlie
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Old 10-01-2006, 12:41 AM   #2
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See my sig, No official numbers, but I run a ten bolt. I also have sprayed 100shot on my old 350 on this axle.
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Old 10-01-2006, 01:43 PM   #3
whiteghost7
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1992 RS w/ Stock 10-bolt with a procharged 350h.o. = 400whp and no problems yet with an eaton posi. I run sticky street tires (BFG KD's ) but they break loose when boost hits so I'v never really shocked the rear. You shouldn't have any problems with 300whp.
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Old 10-01-2006, 02:05 PM   #4
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500+ HP and 560+ torque at the wheels on my 4th gen LT1. I run Mickey Thompson ET Streets out back every day (they're the only tires I use on the car) and spray 150 off the line. 2800 stall converter. 3.73 gears.

Did so for 5+ years and not one single protest from the 10 bolt. Only mods are an aluminum girdle.

The 10 bolt is the one part on the car which hasn't broke.

Actually, no, that's not entirely true. I did break a few teeth off the 3.42 gears I had at one point. I never even knew I broke them until the day I opened the carrier to install the 3.73's. I was like holy crap! My gears are broken

10 bolts have been given a bad rap and I don't know why. Sure, they're not as strong as a 9" or 12 bolt, but on an automatic equipped car, they can handle a lot of power, even on slicks. I would reccomend a girdle though. They're cheap, easy to install, and do provide additional strength.

You may want to upgrade the axles for even more strength if you want, but it's not a must.

How much power do you expect to be making?

Last edited by LT1FUN : 10-01-2006 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 10-01-2006, 03:42 PM   #5
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87 TA has a 10bolt with aftermarket posi i believe and girdle. he makes somewhere around 500whp with a 406. and he's running a T56 now, pulled a few 1.5 60 foots. his old auto combo went 1.38
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Old 10-01-2006, 06:38 PM   #6
LB9GTA
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I was making 400hp on the motor, about 310rwhp.

I have an aluminum girdle and welded my axle tubes.

No breakage yet....
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Old 10-01-2006, 07:22 PM   #7
streetheatz28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LT1FUN View Post
How much power do you expect to be making?
I'm not sure how much power it will put out its not going to be a monster just a 355 with a lunati voodoo cam 241/249 .525/546 , heads are the old double humps and the guy i'm buying them from said he had them on a engine that ran 7.0's in the 1/8 so they should be decent. Long tubes, weiand xcererator intake, holley 650 carb. Make not make 300 rwhp but somewhere in that range. I'm still debating on putting headers on the lb9 and getting a supercharger.
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Old 10-01-2006, 08:03 PM   #8
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thats a big cam...that motor will want more than 650 cfm carb, and definately want good flowing heads. unless those old double humps are fullly ported, then i'd get somethign else to maximize that combo. that should make well over 300 at the wheels
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Old 10-02-2006, 03:50 PM   #9
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I run about 400 on the wheels with a 97 4th gen rear, 3.42's, aubun pro posi. no problems at all. the only issue i had was the axle on the driver's side was a little warped and i didn't know it. the car i got it from was in a wreck and slammed into a curb... so the axle ate the bearings alive. i was only out about $110 in bearings, all told. I scored a brand new GM axle for free to replace the driver's side. my gears and posi are great, and noise free. I don't even have a girdle yet.

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Old 10-03-2006, 01:26 PM   #10
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11.72 on mine with 1.6X 60fts, but it's built.
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Quote:
originally posted by sofakingdom
I've heard all sorts of things about "stronger gears" and all that, from any number of sources. Thing is, I've got a shelf full of T-5s with wasted cases, that EAT any gears I can put in them. Because it's not the GEARS that are the root cause of failure, it's THE CASE. Until you strengthen the CASE, you could put in gears forged in the fiery furnaces of Hell by 10,000-year-old gnomes from an alloy of purest virgin nonobtanium with just enough irreplacium added to make them one-of-a-kind, and the case will STILL stretch and allow those gears to misalign and they'll tear up. Frankly I wouldn't spend another dime on trying to make a T-5 survive behind some power. Oh wait.... I don't have to, I finally woke up and got a clue and swapped in something else; specifically, a T-56

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Old 10-12-2006, 02:31 PM   #11
Trevor Jacek
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...
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Old 10-12-2006, 02:33 PM   #12
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Pretty cool.
Thats my motto..
Break it then fix it.
Still running the 9 Bolt, will upgrade when it dies..
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Old 10-12-2006, 02:36 PM   #13
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I made about 150 passes with 60's in the mid 1.6 range before this happened:



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Old 10-13-2006, 05:24 PM   #14
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Sweet vid trevor, nice car too.

I broke my bone stock 10bolt the first time i got on it, that was with around 400rwhp and street tires. I also think that the rear was already on its way out.
If you beef up the 10Bolt there are some great write ups on this forum.
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Old 10-15-2006, 03:56 PM   #15
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First I was running my bone stock 3.42 open 6-cyl rear, then I put in a bone stock 3.23 posi disc rear and still going. I ran the open diff until about 6 months ago and I've had the car for over 10 years. I upgraded to upgrade, not cause it broke though. I'm probably pushing just over 300 to the wheels.
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Old 10-15-2006, 11:14 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by streetheatz28 View Post
I was wondering who is still running the stock 10 bolt and has about 300 rwhp. I am planning on replacing my lb9 with a carb'd 355/th350 combo and I was wondering if I HAVE to get a diffrent rear. The car will only be ran on the street so there won't be any hard launches happening. The car is a 86
z28 and has a posi rear, other than that I don't know anything else about it.

Thanks, Charlie
There are a few hundred thousand 4th gen LS1 cars with over 300 hp. They all came from the factory with a 10 bolt. They had stronger gears than our old cars, but none the less still the same base axle.
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Old 10-15-2006, 11:39 PM   #17
GuitarJunki17
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Ouch Trev, thats gotta hurt.

For your application though you should be fine. Rears typically break when you get sudden traction and all that force is put on everything at once. For street, you'll be fine.
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Old 10-16-2006, 02:07 AM   #18
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Over 300Hp on the ground with the auto, so more with the Stick I have now.

Eaton Posi, Richmond 3.73, Welded Tubes, Solid Pinion Spacer, Support girdle with pre-loads, synthetic fluid.

Fine on the street. Launch at 3k with drag radials, snapped an axle.
Replace axle, launch again, snap axle and pinion gear.

Conclusion = 10 bolt fine without slicks.

Going with a 9" so I can launch at 4500rpm like my motor wants to see what my ET will really be.



You can't get enough tractions with street tires to hurt these rears when you have alot of power.
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Old 10-16-2006, 02:12 PM   #19
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Quote:
You can't get enough tractions with street tires to hurt these rears when you have alot of power
1.66 60fts here on 315/35/17 Nitto dr's. - They're still pretty much a street tire. - My 10 bolt is moser axles, Detroit tru-trac, Yukon 3.73, welded tubes, DTS cover with homemade back brace. It'll soon be receiving either a 4.10 or a 4.56, a solid spacer and c-clip elims...when it breaks it'll then receive an invite to the dumpster....
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Quote:
originally posted by sofakingdom
I've heard all sorts of things about "stronger gears" and all that, from any number of sources. Thing is, I've got a shelf full of T-5s with wasted cases, that EAT any gears I can put in them. Because it's not the GEARS that are the root cause of failure, it's THE CASE. Until you strengthen the CASE, you could put in gears forged in the fiery furnaces of Hell by 10,000-year-old gnomes from an alloy of purest virgin nonobtanium with just enough irreplacium added to make them one-of-a-kind, and the case will STILL stretch and allow those gears to misalign and they'll tear up. Frankly I wouldn't spend another dime on trying to make a T-5 survive behind some power. Oh wait.... I don't have to, I finally woke up and got a clue and swapped in something else; specifically, a T-56

- If you can't afford to do it right the first time, can you afford to do it again?
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Old 10-16-2006, 02:39 PM   #20
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Quote:
when it breaks it'll then receive an invite to the dumpster....
whatevers not broke, part it out! lol
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Old 10-16-2006, 02:52 PM   #21
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after racing about every weekend for the last 4 or 5 years mine finally broke lastnight. i don't know how much horsepower but it ran 13.50's with a stock 10 bolt with 2.73 gears for the last year and a half or so. before that it was just the stock 305 so that probably didn't hurt it any. i was kind of surprised that it lasted as long is it did running low 1.80 60's and the way i drive. i needed more gear and a posi anyways but i was hoping to wait a little longer, at least now i have all winter to fix it.
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Old 10-16-2006, 04:43 PM   #22
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If you have an auto you are good to go with the 10bolt.
Manuals wreak havoc on the 10bolts.
My old 96 Trans Am M6 with 288RWHP went through 13 rear ends (never broke at the track, just on the street with BFG KDW's), converted to auto with 3600stall and 315/35/17 BFG KD's and it hasn't broken one yet.

I broke my built 10 bolt in my 88 Formula (probably only has 160rhwp).
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Old 10-16-2006, 04:45 PM   #23
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i just dont understand how a manual car running 1.8x 60 foots will do more damage than a auto high stalled car doing 1.6x 60 foots. manual may apply the power force alot quicker to the trans and thus rearend but the auto car is applyin alot more force in general.
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Old 10-16-2006, 05:51 PM   #24
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The torque converter preloads the axle while a manual transmission gives it a full shock of torque all at once.
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Old 10-16-2006, 09:19 PM   #25
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yeah still i thought the higher overall power of the quicker 60 foot car would hurt the rear just as much
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Old 10-16-2006, 09:54 PM   #26
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