Transmissions and DrivetrainNeed help with your trans? Problems with your axle?
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Anyone happen to know how many bolts there are securing the bellhousing on a T56? I removed the 4 that I saw, but the trans assembly won't let go off the locating dowels no matter how much I pry and shake back and forth. Starting to get frustrating!
ALOT... More than 4 for sure... maybe 8 or even more
__________________ Numquam ponenda est pluralitas sine necessitate. — William of Ockham, from Quaestiones et decisiones in quattuor libros Sententiarum Petri Lombardi
Roughly paraphrased into modern English, and applied to figuring out what's wrong with your car:
The simplest explanation that fits all the facts is probably the right one.
In the pic, aren't some of the holes that are showing where the trans body is secured to the bellhousing? How many bolts secure the bellhousing (and therefore the trans itself) to the block? I saw 4...and believe me the top two were no picnic. If there are even more above them, then there is NO way they will be visible to me or even accessible without pulling the motor and trans together. I'm going back out there tomorrow, but I am pretty sure what I am saying is true...?
Bellhousing to engine is 6 bolts. tranny to bellhousing has 8 bolts.
You need to take the trans off the bellhousing first then remove the 6 bolts to get the bellhousing off the engine. In my experiance that is the easiest way...im not sure if its possible to take it out as a whole or not.
Your probably better off taking the trans off the bellhousing first then trying to take the bellhousing off the engine as a complete assembly cause I don't think you will have enough room to pull the assembly out of the trans tunnel without it getting in the way some how.
Wow, there are 8 bolts holding the trans to the bellhousing? My vision is pretty good, and I could only see 4 today, which I removed. That means the other 4 have to be in areas with real poor access. This is going to be fun fun fun.
I had to use over 30" of extensions with a 9/16 swivel socket i believe. Its a real real pain to get the highest one on the passenger side of the car, cut my hand all up and used about all my energy getting it out.
I had to use over 30" of extensions with a 9/16 swivel socket i believe. Its a real real pain to get the highest one on the passenger side of the car, cut my hand all up and used about all my energy getting it out.
Good luck.
Same, I found if you can tip the tranny down some without breaking your distributer cap you can use the extensions and get at it from the rear of the tranny.
Found another 2 bolts holding trans to bellhousing. Removed those, now I can get a gap between trans and bell, but they won't fully disengage., no matter whether I raise and lower, shake, pry. WTF?
Yes, I realize it should not be this hard.
Any advice appreciated. I'm going to go and grab another Bud.
Look at the pic carefully. You will see that there are 8. All 8, plus the 2 dowel pin holes, are clearly visible. Check each location using the pic as a guide. All 8 must be removed. (duh)
Sounds like there's at least one still there, but it's not all the way tight.
The trans is heavy. Make sure you support it when you're taking the last bolt(s) out, so you don't destroy the clutch disc.
__________________ Numquam ponenda est pluralitas sine necessitate. — William of Ockham, from Quaestiones et decisiones in quattuor libros Sententiarum Petri Lombardi
Roughly paraphrased into modern English, and applied to figuring out what's wrong with your car:
The simplest explanation that fits all the facts is probably the right one.
I have now removed a total of 8 bolts holding the trans body to the bellhousing. I can see a gap between these parts, which I can make wider or narrower by jacking or lowering the trans with the tranny jack. But, I cannot get it into a position where it will pull backwards and disengage whatvere it is attached to inside the bell. What could be holding it up? I have removed and installed automatics before, but never a manual, don't really know what is going on in there.
Guys, I really need some help here...I'd like to have this damn thing pulled by this evening.
I now KNOW I have all of the bolts out that hold the bellhousing to the block (8 of them). The bellhousing is now OFF the alignment dowels on the block, and there is maybe a good 1/2" gap between the block and bell.
I also believe that I have all the bolts out that hold the trans body to tyhe bell...6.
I have tried countless times to pull, shake, and twist the trans free, and it won't give! I am assuming that there are shafts that need to be pulled out of the holes they are in, but why can't i pull the trans straight back? I have tried doing all this with the trans jack at different heights, placing or relieveing strain on different portions of the trans.
This is really, really sucking, so if you can help, I'd be very grateful.
Did you slide the fork back off of the throwout bearing?
__________________ Numquam ponenda est pluralitas sine necessitate. — William of Ockham, from Quaestiones et decisiones in quattuor libros Sententiarum Petri Lombardi
Roughly paraphrased into modern English, and applied to figuring out what's wrong with your car:
The simplest explanation that fits all the facts is probably the right one.
Hate to say this but you sure you can't bring this to a mechanic or someone that knows what there doing cause it sounds like your doing more damage then good down there, I would be surprised if your input shaft is not damaged after this. At least pic up a 4th gen manual and maybe read the instructions might help.
__________________ 89 T-Top GTA 5.7L T-56
ATI Procharger D1sc, AFR 195 Eliminator heads, ZZ9 cam, AS&M SS runners, Accel base, 58mm TB, 60Ibs injectors, Stainless Works LT 1 3/4 headers, Mufflex 4" catback, McLeod Street twin clutch, Moser Ford 9" with 3.70, 18" Boyd Smoothie II wheels 8"/10", DIY prom with code59. Stock short block
Miniram & Monoblade throttle body soon to be added.
Ahhh.. parts car, k gotcha. yeah was little worried about the input shaft end getting bent in the pilot bushing, it's pretty thin on the end. Sorry to sound like a prick but one of the key things to do is slide the fork off the throwout bearing on most manuals before removal but it looks like you got things figured out so