Quote: Originally Posted by Sonix He said in his first post that he had those welded on. Not sure why this thread has gotten so much arguement, he's not exactly the first person on here to beef up a 10bolt...? I'm still wanting to see where it's tied onto the tubes. Also, where the tubes preloaded.... in tension? ie, preloaded to pull the tubes backwards? Well, I don't have a good downward picture so I did this quick rendering for you, hope it helps. I put about 10 inch lbs of backwards preload. not enough to pull anything out of place.

I don't think they were welded on the diff cover.
I haven't been to this forum in a few years, so I haven't been up to date on some things.
But I'd take that 10 bolt over any 9". If you look at the picture it looks like there's brackets welded to the alxe tube. (hope he "tied" it with a double knot) or was it Gorilla Glue? He probally does have some preload on it.

<---- this guy is great!

Data for your research:

Just wanted to say that I sheared 3 or 4 teeth off of the pinion in my 94 rear with GM 3.73s. I think it may not have been set up perfectly by the previous owner because it whined a little when coasting. The gm 2.73's held up fine with 225 tires. Now I have Richmond 3.23's that are silent and were strong enough to outlast the WCt5 tranny(broken 3rd gear).

I never thought of bracing the rear... I guess I'll try that after I get a tranny. I wonder if the brace idea would be any better on the 4th gen rear, being almost 4" wider, allowing the brace to be wider too?... probably negligable effect.

Interesting... Thanks for the drawing, looks like it took a bit of time!

I figured you'd have to have angled the tie rods, in order to get it to "pull" the tubes backwards, rather than just inwards..? But yea, it looks like that would work. Those tie rod adjusters show as being $160 from summit, sounds kinda pricey, but I guess rod ends cost $$, and for 4 rod ends, with a bit of welding, you're pretty much at that price if you made it yourself.... but since it's not really moving (very little when it flexes), I wouldn't think you'd need a spherical bearing rod end, perhaps a solid rod end would have done the job...?

92RSS - Zdaddy mentioned that he had his summit girdle given to "someone" who welded on tabs with bolt holes. It's not a stock feature, (unless you get the LPW or thunder racing version IIRC).

I know "they" (probably LPW?) makes a bracing kit, very similar to what Zdaddy has done. I *think* F-bird'88 has it, I know he's posted a link to the webpage where it's sold. I figured that's just going too far for a 10 bolt, but whatever.
But anyway, just pointing out that this setup is available to buy, so it's not like Zdaddy is really re-inventing the wheel here, he's found one of the common weak points, and addressed it.

FWIW, to my 10 bolt, i've;
welded tubes to center housing
solid pinion spacer, torqued nut to ~240ft/lbs
summit girdle.
zytanium cross shaft (friggen hard to find! and not worth it IMHO)
Still using stock gears, axles, and posi.

I think i'm going to fab up an 8.5" for my next 3rd gen. More for the learning experience in the fabrication area that any other reason, but also because of the power output of my next car... (still in dreaming stages).

i would imagine you wouldnt want to pull them backward, just tight. unless its a strip only car, then it wouldnt matter.

http://www.lpwracing.com/p_axletubebrace.asp

Includes instruction section if you search a little.

for your info. on the twisted pinion shaft It was an aftermarket gear set I think 3.73s dont no the brand. the stock 2.7? set broke a couple weeks earlyer riped the teath off the ring gear after one wheel wheel hoping burn out! I belive as mentioned earlyer the (one) week piont of the 10 bolt is the case itself the ring and pinion try to push apart lateraly under heavy load reducing the contact patch. Just one slip and it is broken! you can strengthen
the back of the case (it will help) but you can not stop the front of the case or the pinion shaft it self from flexing!
just the same if it works for you go for it.
keep your AAA mebership up to date!

You're thinking of the ZQ8 package. The ZR2 package was an off-road option with 31" tires and a wider suspension. All ZR2 s-trucks came with a 8.5 10 bolt with 3.73s and the Gov-loc. Some 2nd gen s-trucks that had a 4.3 v6 and a stick also got the 8.5. There are 3 different housings since the 4x4 rear is 4 inches wider than the 2wd, and the ZR2 rear is 4 inches wider than the regular 4x4.

-Ralph

I don't need AAA, just logic. The front of the differential isn't the leak point, rather the rear, more specifically the main bearings allow the carrier to pivot away from the front of the main housing reducing critical contact with the pinion. And the whinning noise is a good indication of incorrect lash. The force that pulls the carrier section away is the axle shafts propelling forward. It doesn't work if the parts in the diff are inferior or installed incorrectly. The axle tube supports are just one part of the total equation to a strong unit entirely....

One more illistration-

Never heard of the richmond power trax just eaton posi. Interesting.

It's kind of like having a spool and open diff at the same time! Feels a little strange at first, but you get use to it....

Later

PS- I have a volunteer test subject on a 4th Gen producing 400hp. Will document the work and we will see how it does in this application. Appreciate the go at it Walter!

Here are the 1st pics of the test differential provided by Walter. This will be installed on a 400hp car for drag racing and auto crossing.



PS- I polised the cover.....

Walter?

Hey, you never found the moroso cap studs part numbers did you? I glanced through the thread and I don't think you mentioned them?

Reason I ask is that I can't seem to find any specific to this application. Well, I think TA racing makes a set, but it's $25, unless you buy their girdle. I think other companies make them for other rears, and I *think* the GM 8.5" kit has the same bolts, and would interchange, but i'm not 100% on that.

both 10 bolts still cutting 1.6 60ft's, both cars in the high 400rwhp, both car's in the high 11's 1/4 mile, both diffs in fantastic condition! Holla at cha boy! 3rd and 4th gen camaro's. All tests done and you draw your own conclusions.....

LATER

I'm cutting mid low 1.6's on my stock 9-bolt.

Hit them with some 1.4x-1.5x 60fts and see how they hold up.

this is true. i have a 2wd 2dr 2000 blazer and it has a 8.5"

Zdaddy, please post more pics of the rear of your car......Also would love to see the underside...The exhaust and such...Your car looks jam up dude, PLEASE post me some pics, along with info, on what youve have done...I love the way the exhaust looks...Im kinda wanting to go all out on my exhaust while I have it down for the SFC's install...any info you could yeild to me would sure help.How ahrd was it to do the duals, and did you do them, or farm it out to a shop......Once again AWESOME ride, Thanks, Tom

Sorry to hijack your thread..l

I'm pushing the car to the 600-700hp mark next month with an extreme concept motor and pushing the V7 on up to the 20-22 psi level. Should be easy 10's in 1/4. Will let you know the results then as well....Sure there is a breaking point, will let you know when that is. Do not intend to push anymore hp than that due to car's primary function will be Time Attack this year....

PS, don't need to slam the clutch at 5k and cut a 1.4 60ft time to get a good 1/4 time...when the boost spools I'm gone. That extra car length most get on me out of the whole is just short lived false hope. Unless your a 9 to low 10 sec street car...most aren't.

Gallileo60, goto my cardomain. If you need more, PM me.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2496232

I saw axle brace kits with differential covers in the most recent JEG's magazine that I got last week. brand is Ultimate.

any updates on the bullet proof 10 bolts?

page 180 r in the new jegs catalog. if you look real close at that picture you'll see the word ultimate across the back of the housing cover. and at the base it's marked lpw. that looks like it's the lpw stuff being marketed under the jegs logo. i really don't have a problem with this though, i haven't ever heard of something they put their name on having a problem(not that it hasn't happened). besides, it's cheaper at jegs!
the axle brace kit is way more expensive than through lpw though
Eric B

looks sweet

OK, so here is the update...........

Car is making 600 RWHP (750 GROSS). I've made one event at a Dyno Day, Maxton Mile for Land Speed and one event at VIR for an SVT Cobra event (fun driving against the Mustang crowd). On the 12th lap at VIR on the full course, shifting to forth gear on the back straight at 140ish and then BLAM, clunk, clunk. clunk.....I tore the center right out of my new race clutch disk......lol

The differential is still fine BTW.

lol,

thats great. iam glad you posted this. iam building mine up now too.

I'm also going to run the Ultimate 10 Bolt/axle tube brace kit from Jegs.It is made buy LPW racing products (Arrived just yesterday)Its going over my new Eaton Posi and 3.42 gears.Its only a stock daily driver but cant hurt to add a little extra to a 10 bolt. http://www.lpwracing.com/

I am going this route as well. Does anyone have any information as to where I can get the solid pinion spacer? I have triedto reach Drivetrain Direct, but the 888-584-4327 number does not work from Canada.

only one company on earth makes this, Ratech
http://www.ratechmfg.com/contactus.htm
I just phoned them direct and ordered one from them. $20 part, $50 shipping (with border fees). Kinda a rip off.
It's quite literally a short piece of pipe. You can probably get a machine shop to make you one for less then that actually. Measure up your old crush sleeve, and get a piece of pipe/tube of that ID. OD isn't crucial. Then cut it .010" shorter, and find some shims (machine shop). Then just use that.

bought mine at summit racing $16 her is the link
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Great! I bought some parts from Summit two months ago and asked them about this piece, they did not have it at that time so must be new stock. Thanks!

Glad to hear the rear is still holding up, great thread & Beautiful car!

any updates?