Transmissions and DrivetrainNeed help with your trans? Problems with your axle?
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Hello.. I noticed you know about the TV Cable Corrector.. I just recently bought it from someone on ebay.
I received it but have a problem that is taking a long time for the seller to tell me if it's defective or normal.. I received a tiny tiny ziplock bag with a spring and the black plastic sleeve. No instructions..
I noticed on the pic they post on ebay; http://i24.ebayimg.com/01/i/000/84/68/3e92_1.JPG that the spring is on the FAR end of the black plastic part. However the one I received, there is no way to push it flush because there is a ridge before the end of the plastic part that the spring slides over top. And the spring itself is flat on both ends so it can't slide OVER the ridge.. Is mine defective?
I REALLY want to try this little thing out but I don't want to FORCE and possibly break the plastic thing or bend the spring forcing it over top the ridge if it should go that far.. I tried but it will start to round off the ridge so would defeat the purpose of having the ridge.. Obviously there for a reason...
Thank you SO MUCH!
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I sent you a PM back. I got to looking at the pics you posted, and I think I can see what you're talking about. I took mine off for the winter since it shifts too hard to drive in the snow with the spring on. I was curious, so I went out in the garage and looked at mine. The spring and plastic piece on mine don't go together completely flush either. The spring stops on that little bump in the plastic that's about 1/16" from the ridge. I think it's normal for it to be that way. I had mine hooked up that way for about 8 or 9 months before taking it off for winter, and it never had any problems. It's a little tricky getting the TV adjusted after you put the spring on because it'll shift pretty hard no matter where you adjust it. I just adjusted mine until the shift points felt right, or in other words, when it shifted at the right rpm. The spring increases the line pressure inside the trans. The increased pressure causes harder shifts no matter how much or how little throttle you give it. That's why I set mine according to what rpms the shifts occur rather than how firm they felt. It took about 3 test drives and adjustments before I got it where it felt right. Hope this helps clear things up for ya. I look forward to putting mine back on once all this damn snow melts!
__________________ 89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."
I asked this question to another guy and he said he had the ridge and installed it with the ridge so the spring sits approx 1/16th before the end.
I installed the spring the same way (stopping at the ridge) and pulled the cable housing as far to the rear as I could while holding the release button. Then manually WOT the throttle valve until it clicked a bunch of times until I got to WOT.
Tried to drive the car but noticed the car shifts really late now! First shift is almost pointing straight up on the tach. So I clicked the housing forward closer to the Detent (front of the car), and it seems to get back bringing it forward, but now it's like almost at the very front as it will go (detent is like 1/2" outwards from the flushed part of the TV cable slider mechanism.
So I have two different answers.. Some are saying to keep the ridge while others are saying the spring should be RIGHT flush with the corrector black plastic piece..
If I were to file down the ridge (I don't get why there would be an obvious molded shape if it's not supposed to be there.... it's a smooth mushroom shape..) If I were to file it down then that would mean the housing could be pulled back 1/16th back more...
do any of you guys have a torque converter with a higher stall speed? i have a 2800 stall Edge converter and i have no problems running around with the trans short shifting part throttle mainly because when the converter is unlocked, its 2500-2600 rpms or more and that gives me plenty of power in every gear to move the car around. its smooth too
I dont know why you would want a neck snapping part throttle shift at 3000 rpms?? that seems to be over revving for no reason and would be harder on the trans
I dont know why you would want a neck snapping part throttle shift at 3000 rpms?? that seems to be over revving for no reason and would be harder on the trans
cause its kewl
I had a 355, stock converter, and a vette servo. It was kind of a harsh shift, if the car was a DD it would be annoying, but for a weekend car it was fine. I just found that it helped keep the RPM's up a bit and the car seemed to perform better. Cant beat the new 408 and TKO though...
Hey 'Source, I guess you could file the bump down if you really wanted to. Thing is though, if you still have another 1/16" worth of adjustment left on the cable, why not just pull it out another click or two? When I have the spring installed on mine, my cable is pulled out of the housing about 1/4" to get the right adjustment. Of course, that doesn't really apply to yours since there's some variance in the cable length from one car to the next. Hey Orr, I do agree to a point that it gets kinda old having it shift that hard all the time, but since I only use the spring on mine during the summer months, I get a break from the hard shifts for a little while. After dealing with the mushy, stock shifts all winter, I'll definitely be ready to use the spring again as soon as it stops snowing all the time! Actually, I'll be able to shift it however I want before long since the TKO is going in before too much longer.
__________________ 89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."
lol maryland international raceway..its near DC/baltimore bout an hour south of baltimore. you probly race at Englishtown i'm guessing being in new jersey?
Hey 'Source, I guess you could file the bump down if you really wanted to. Thing is though, if you still have another 1/16" worth of adjustment left on the cable, why not just pull it out another click or two? When I have the spring installed on mine, my cable is pulled out of the housing about 1/4" to get the right adjustment. Of course, that doesn't really apply to yours since there's some variance in the cable length from one car to the next. Hey Orr, I do agree to a point that it gets kinda old having it shift that hard all the time, but since I only use the spring on mine during the summer months, I get a break from the hard shifts for a little while. After dealing with the mushy, stock shifts all winter, I'll definitely be ready to use the spring again as soon as it stops snowing all the time! Actually, I'll be able to shift it however I want before long since the TKO is going in before too much longer.
I would but right now the housing is pulled ALL THE WAY TO THE FRONT of the car literally no more clicks left.. So I'm thinking the spring is too much and needs to be flush with the plastic correction cable collar like it shows in the pics..
I just picked one up on Ebay a couple days ago. I haven't had a chance to drive the car yet but when I installed it I just reset the tv cable like normal by pulling back on the cable towards the firewall while depressing the "D- button". Would this be ok or do I have to do something different?
__________________
305 tbi, Ultimate TBI mods, March UD pullies and Brackets, Proform Electric WP, ACDELCO EP241 Fuel Pump, TNT Spacer, Inj Pod Spacer, Gasket matched and 2" Bored Edelbrock tbi intake, Xtremefi AFPR, Gasket matched and Ceramic Coated 2055's, Hooker 3" Aerochamber catback, LS1 Aluminum driveshaft, Homemade Open element, Comp 1.6 roller tip rockers, Edelbrock STB, Tubular LCA's & Panhard bar, E.S. Bushings, UMI LCARB's, Wonderbar, Eibach Pro-kit Springs, MSD 8.5 wires, MSD 6A Ignition Box, MSD blaster coil, A/C & Smog delete, Excessive weight reduction (2860lbs), GM 3.42 gears, Moser 26 spline axles, Powertrax noslip locker, Summit diff cover, TH700R4 transgo shift kit, Corvette servo, Permacool tranny cooler, Sonnax TV Spring kit, Aluminum Drums, Nitto NT555R Drag Radials, EBL and Zeitronix ZT-2 for the tuning.
Future plans are a Edelbrock RPM intake, 46mm Xtremefi TBI, ZZ4 cam, Ported ZZ4 heads and an EDGE 3200 stall going in after I learn how to tune.
The reason I asked this question is because I installed a Sonnax TV Correction Spring that goes between the TV cable at the throttle body link and puts a spring on the end to help stop the WOT loosing it's adjustment.
WITHOUT IT.. my car shifts (STOP.. Slowly pressing the gas in regular day to day driving from light to light) around 2000-2500rpm. The moment I pop on the spring, it forces that shift now between 3500-4500rpm!!
Shifts are VERY Harsh.. I can get adjust the tv closer to the front of the throttle body but then the shifts NEVER get back to 2000-2500rpm simply because I've moved the cable as far forward as it will go.. I can get it to say 3500rpm but it's SOOO SMOOTH SHIFTING.. And now the shift is SO SMOOTH it's like I never had a shift kit installed..
So for now i'm removed the correction spring and back to 2000-2500rpm.
I just tried out the car today and all I can say is DAAAAMMNN!!!!!!! The car feels completely different now. I might see if i can turn it down alittle bit. It doesn't want to shift into 4th until like 50 or so. It almost feels like I'm driving a stick car by how it feels. So far I like it.
I just tried out the car today and all I can say is DAAAAMMNN!!!!!!! The car feels completely different now. I might see if i can turn it down alittle bit. It doesn't want to shift into 4th until like 50 or so. It almost feels like I'm driving a stick car by how it feels. So far I like it.
Do you have a shift kit installed? Different cam? what rpm DID it shift at (into first) when you were at a stop and slowly pressed down on the gas for city driving? now what does it do it at?
I have a mild cam, shift kit.. before spring it would shift into first between 2000-2500rpm. Now it's between 3500-4500rpm redline (yellow to begin with) starts at 5000rpm).
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if I decided to keep it installed and get used to it, could it do any damage to the tranny with that harsh shifts, or the engine shifting up to 4500rpm for it's first casual driving?
My mild cam moved my power range up into my RPM's.. So I usually can drive into 5000rpm
I just tried out the car today and all I can say is DAAAAMMNN!!!!!!! The car feels completely different now. I might see if i can turn it down alittle bit. It doesn't want to shift into 4th until like 50 or so. It almost feels like I'm driving a stick car by how it feels. So far I like it.
Hey Robert. Yeah, I was gonna reply to your last post, but I figured once you installed it and tried it, you'd see what I meant about having to sorta tinker with the adjustment to get it where you like it. The thing I like about it on mine is without the spring, it always shifts into OD/4th at like 35-40 mph, which is annoying because it feels like the car is lugging. When I put the spring on and get it set right, it doesn't shift into 4th until about 45 mph, which feels just right. During the winter without the spring on, I'm always manually shifting it down into drive to keep the rpms up when I'm going 40 mph or less. I've often wondered if recalibrating the governor weights/springs would cure the problem of it shifting into 4th too early, but the corrector spring only takes a few minutes to install, and doesn't require tearing into the trans. I also like the harder shifts during good weather. That's another thing you could probably accomplish by putting in a larger boost valve (increases line pressure), but once again, you have to tear into the trans to do that. So the spring is a good way to cheat I guess. Hey source, with a mostly stock motor, I don't think the harder shifts will necessarily hurt anything. In fact, it's probably better in a sense because there's less slippage in the clutches with a quicker, firmer shift. Of course if you have a high powered/modified engine, you really should go through the trans with all the upgrade stuff, such as a HD sunshell, HD planetarys, kevlar band, and upgraded clutches, etc. I've got a Transgo shift kit, Corvette servo, and a .500 boost valve sitting in the boxes. I've just been too lazy to tear into the trans to install them. I've also got a brand new stall converter, but I may just end up selling all that stuff since I'm probably going to put a Tremec TKO in it this spring. A local guy had a lightly used one out of a 3rd gen for only $1K, so I couldn't pass it up.
__________________ 89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."
Yes. I'm running one. For me, it helped to spread the part-throttle shifts out. I filed down the "rib" on the spring retainer, so the spring butts up againt the retainer flange, to get it just about right. It delayed the shifts a little too long in stock form. It works great with my ProBuilt trans.
Bill
Do you have a shift kit installed? Different cam? what rpm DID it shift at (into first) when you were at a stop and slowly pressed down on the gas for city driving? now what does it do it at?
I have a mild cam, shift kit.. before spring it would shift into first between 2000-2500rpm. Now it's between 3500-4500rpm redline (yellow to begin with) starts at 5000rpm).
----------
if I decided to keep it installed and get used to it, could it do any damage to the tranny with that harsh shifts, or the engine shifting up to 4500rpm for it's first casual driving?
My mild cam moved my power range up into my RPM's.. So I usually can drive into 5000rpm
I have a B&M Shift kit in it as of right now. I'm installing the Transgo In another trans along with all upgraded internals. The car will shift from first into second with just slow driving at about 2000- 2500 range.
Can someone give me a working link to this thing. Will this help my hsr setup at all. I am getting 3.70 gears and i also will need a speedo change or whatever i need to do. I run a 88 camaro. Help me out
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is it this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/700-7...spagenameZWD1V
Last edited by kowboy59; 02-08-2008 at 12:16 AM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
It's made by Sonnax, as stated. There are a few distibutors of the part, I got mine from a place called "Transmichigan". Someone else posted a source for it the other day, so a search should hook you up with a distributor, or contact Sonnax.
Bill
ok you all have me foaming at the mouth.. I have the same issues as most of you. Awesome driving sports car, huge amounts of power....shift points suck.. I cant wait to get one of these things
wow this sounds like the best price vs performance boost part I have ever seen... I'm going to buy one because my shifts suck, and on top of that 2-3 slips, hopefully this will fix all that. If not I'm coming after whoever found this part and taking my 15 bucks back!!!
Why not do this the right way and get a governor recalibration kit? It takes like 5 minutes to get the governor cover off in the car and change weights/springs. Then you can really tailor the part throttle and full throttle shift timing
I'm using the spring in conjunction with governor recalibration. With the governor set-up to provide the ~correct WOT shift, part throttle shifts were too early; with the spring installed, slightly modified, part and WOT shifts are just about dead on. Still need to do a little tweaking on the governor.
All that the corrector spring does, is pull the TV cable out a bit extra at light throttle, making the trans behave as if more throttle is being used; i.e. it raises line presssure, which in turn raises the shift RPMs and makes the shifts occur faster, at part throttle. Since it's a spring, it compresses at WOT, which lets the setting mechanism work like it normally does, and the trans works like it always would at WOT.
Pretty simple, and pretty ingenious; and near impossible to hurt anything, except Mustang owners' egos.
If you read through the link I posted WAY WAY WAAAAAYYY back about halfway through this thread, you'll see that what it in essence does, is to offset what BTO calls "short spring syndrome".
__________________ Numquam ponenda est pluralitas sine necessitate. — William of Ockham, from Quaestiones et decisiones in quattuor libros Sententiarum Petri Lombardi
Roughly paraphrased into modern English, and applied to figuring out what's wrong with your car:
The simplest explanation that fits all the facts is probably the right one.
I was told by a trans guy, the gov. weights control WOT, and springs control part throttle. You can also stagger springs and weights to affect the curve. If your part throttle is too early your gov is not set up as well as it could be. I can make my part throttle shifts so late that at 1/4 throttle, it doesn't shift till 4500 in each gear, or I can make them so early 1-2-3 are almost on top of each other. I have had the gov weights and springs in and out probably 15 times and got all kinds of different results. Once I got close though it made sense which way to go.
my car shifts pretty good at part throttle all around, but my WOT is off since i switched to carb. i switched to carb and had the trans rebuilt, he tried using the recalibration kit, and i got the tv corrector bracket thing. and like i said normal throttle is ok, but he put in the governor recalibration kit to give me an almost perfect 1-2, but 2-3 and 3-4 are way too early. and most of the time it wont downshift when it needs to. would this fix it?
o well, its under warranty and i got a megashifter, and i dont get to drive it often, i think ill just deal with it.
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plus, wouldnt flooring the car put the tv cable in the correct place anyways?
Last edited by ZZ4 86 Z28; 02-12-2008 at 03:42 PM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
If your line pressure /TV are not up to par, you can very easily burn up your trans pretty quickly. It's your car, but I would not let that go. The TV can self adjust within a certain range. If the combination of throttle lever arm and bracket put it past the range where it can adjust by clicking out, you will still have a misadjusted TV.
I can make my part throttle shifts so late that at 1/4 throttle, it doesn't shift till 4500 in each gear, or I can make them so early 1-2-3 are almost on top of each other.
Soon as I installed the spring, that is EXACTLY what it did and I did NOT like that! It forced the FIRST SHIFT not to occur in day to day city street driving until 4000-4500RPM.. WAAAAAY too high!! You're saying that's normal?? How could you drive a car that won't shift until that high??
Um, read my post again. I said I COULD obtain that, not that I kept it that way. You have to try a whole bunch of different combo's to get it right. Just because you get it wrong the first time doesn't mean you give up. I tailored the part throttle shifts to be low enough at light throttle, but ramp up enough to keep my engine in the power band as I get on the gas. I don't ever have to shift the car to keep it in the power band. WOT 1-2, 2-3 are both right around 6200 for my fully rollerized 327. Part throttle are nice and tame. It was a pain taking the gov out so many times but it was worth it.
Um, read my post again. I said I COULD obtain that, not that I kept it that way. You have to try a whole bunch of different combo's to get it right. Just because you get it wrong the first time doesn't mean you give up. I tailored the part throttle shifts to be low enough at light throttle, but ramp up enough to keep my engine in the power band as I get on the gas. I don't ever have to shift the car to keep it in the power band. WOT 1-2, 2-3 are both right around 6200 for my fully rollerized 327. Part throttle are nice and tame. It was a pain taking the gov out so many times but it was worth it.
True, but i'm referring to the Corrector spring ;-)
no, its in the right place. when we adjusted it i think it came out like 6 or 7 clicks. and like i said, the builder put it under warranty, and by the time its over ill probably have a t56 anyways.
Let's back this up a bit. I'm still wondering why going from 2.77 to 3.23 would change the shift mph. Seems to me the car would shift at the same mph, but the RPM's would be a few hundred higher during each shift.
If I put 5.13 gears in the car, would it still shift at 40 mph into O/D or would it be into 4th at say 20 mph?
My car is a 3.27. Stock from the factory, the trans shifted at 40 mph in O/D. After the Pro Built Automatic shift kit, it shifts at 43 mph. I like 43 better than 40. 43-45 would be absolutely fine. But I wouldn't want to give up my smooth part throttle shifts and normal RPM shift points to get that.
What do 2.77 gear cars shift at stock? 40? 45? 35?
This Sonnax springs sounds more like a cure for bad TV cables rather than people looking for a performance mod. You guys may like 3000 RPM shifts that are hard. But I would get tired of that pretty quick. That's why I like the PBA kit. I can still do 2000 RPM soft shifts as if I didn't have a shift kit when I'm in traffic, have coffee in my hands, bored of driving, driving around family who are seniors etc.
Shifts are controlled by the governor, which is controlled by the output shaft, which spins at the same speed as the drive shaft. If you change the gears to a higher numerical ratio, the trans has no way to know about that; it will shift at the same balance of governor speed (drive shaft speed) and TV as it always did. Which will end up being, a lower road speed. In fact sometimes it's so bad it almost seems like the trans is stack-shifting.
So, if you had let's say 2.73s in the car and you put 5.13s in, it would shift at the same drive shaft RPM, which if that occurred at 40 mph with the old gears, it will be a 2.73/5.13 x 40 with the new ones, or about 21 mph.
The Sonnax spring doesn't do a thing about cables. It's a sort of band-aid for what BTO calls "short spring syndrome", as I referred to above. Since nearly all stock 700s seem to have this problem to a greater or lesser degree, it's a decent solution in many cases, without having to somehow come up with a different (longer and/or stiffer) TV plunger spring and dissect the valve body to install it.
__________________ Numquam ponenda est pluralitas sine necessitate. — William of Ockham, from Quaestiones et decisiones in quattuor libros Sententiarum Petri Lombardi
Roughly paraphrased into modern English, and applied to figuring out what's wrong with your car:
The simplest explanation that fits all the facts is probably the right one.
Neither, you put it on the TV cable where it connects to the throttle body. Well, I guess it could be part of the engine, since the throttle body is kind of part of the intake system which is kind of part of the engine.
Last edited by iceman02; 02-15-2008 at 06:30 PM.
Reason: clarification
Shifts are controlled by the governor, which is controlled by the output shaft, which spins at the same speed as the drive shaft. If you change the gears to a higher numerical ratio, the trans has no way to know about that; it will shift at the same balance of governor speed (drive shaft speed) and TV as it always did. Which will end up being, a lower road speed. In fact sometimes it's so bad it almost seems like the trans is stack-shifting.
So, if you had let's say 2.73s in the car and you put 5.13s in, it would shift at the same drive shaft RPM, which if that occurred at 40 mph with the old gears, it will be a 2.73/5.13 x 40 with the new ones, or about 21 mph.
The Sonnax spring doesn't do a thing about cables. It's a sort of band-aid for what BTO calls "short spring syndrome", as I referred to above. Since nearly all stock 700s seem to have this problem to a greater or lesser degree, it's a decent solution in many cases, without having to somehow come up with a different (longer and/or stiffer) TV plunger spring and dissect the valve body to install it.
There's no material difference between a carb and FI, in this regard. A throttle is a throttle.
What it does, is hold the cable pulled out a certain amount at any throttle position other than at WOT, as if you had the throttle partway open. At WOT, it compresses, and so doesn't affect WOT behavior at all. Basically "fools" the trans, makes it think you're using more throttle than you really are all the time except at WOT, so it raises line pressure which makes the shifts later and harder.
__________________ Numquam ponenda est pluralitas sine necessitate. — William of Ockham, from Quaestiones et decisiones in quattuor libros Sententiarum Petri Lombardi
Roughly paraphrased into modern English, and applied to figuring out what's wrong with your car:
The simplest explanation that fits all the facts is probably the right one.
This Sonnax springs sounds more like a cure for bad TV cables rather than people looking for a performance mod. You guys may like 3000 RPM shifts that are hard. But I would get tired of that pretty quick. That's why I like the PBA kit. I can still do 2000 RPM soft shifts as if I didn't have a shift kit when I'm in traffic, have coffee in my hands, bored of driving, driving around family who are seniors etc.[/quote]
I agree with that statement Reid. It's definitely not for everyone since it makes the shifts a lot harder. The trans will still shift lower than 3K if you're not into the throttle, but it will still shift hard at any rpm due to the increased line pressure. That's why in my earlier replies I tried to say that while it's kinda fun having the spring on there, it's not as solid of a solution as using a shift kit and a governor recalibration kit. Sofa did an excellent job of explaining what it DOES cure though, and I think the governor is really the key to the problem. I had 2.73's originally, and when I swapped to 3.23's my trans started shifting into OD too early, causing the motor to lug. Also, while it's a long read, BTO's article on "short spring syndrome" is an excellent summary of the common problem in 700r4's with not enough line pressure, which causes early shifts and excessive wear on the clutches. If you plan on keeping your 700r4 for the long term, and setting it up for performance, you should definitely get into the internals of the trans and get everything set up properly. Since I'm going to a manual trans in the near future, using the spring provided a quick fix with minimal effort. I guess the bad thing about this thread is the guys who don't even know where it goes or how a TV system functions are thinking it's a simple cure-all. That's probably the reason this spring is not heavily advertised by any companies. Having the TV system out of whack is probably the easiest way to ruin a healthy 700r4. Once I get the TKO in my car, I get to be my own shift governor!
__________________ 89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."
Actually, I'll be able to shift it however I want before long since the TKO is going in before too much longer. 
Hey source, with a mostly stock motor, I don't think the harder shifts will necessarily hurt anything. In fact, it's probably better in a sense because there's less slippage in the clutches with a quicker, firmer shift. Of course if you have a high powered/modified engine, you really should go through the trans with all the upgrade stuff, such as a HD sunshell, HD planetarys, kevlar band, and upgraded clutches, etc. I've got a Transgo shift kit, Corvette servo, and a .500 boost valve sitting in the boxes. I've just been too lazy to tear into the trans to install them. I've also got a brand new stall converter, but I may just end up selling all that stuff since I'm probably going to put a Tremec TKO in it this spring. A local guy had a lightly used one out of a 3rd gen for only $1K, so I couldn't pass it up. 
