I have a 1988 Iroc with a 350 and a 4L60E. I was just wondering if the Torque Converter Lock Up Swith in this tech article will work on my car. And if so, what are the risks involved. Transmissions aren't my best suite, so any help is appreciated. Also, if anyone knows how hard/easy it is to install the B&M kickdown vale is to install please let me know. Here is the link to the tech article: http://www.thirdgen.org/torqueswitch thanks in advance ~Cam

anybody?

So I'm assuming that no one else has done this, and therefor i think i will hold off on it for a bit.

if you truly have a 4l60e transmission, then you don't need that switch. the 4l60e is computer controlled for the lock-up. that switch is only for vehicles that have no electronic controller.


question, if you don't know much about transmissions, then why did you put a 4l60e in your car? did you buy it that way? the factory transmission is the 700r4/4l60. the 4l60e didn't start until '94 in the camaros and firebirds.

My bad. It is just a 4l60. Like I said i have no idea what i'm talking about when it comes to transmissions.

hey, everybody starts learning somewhere

if your car is stock...don't worry about the switch. the ecm does the tcc lock-up.

I did my camaro like this...but now it wont work when i flip the switch..and i checked all my connections..i think the problem is in the tranny..but what could it be? it goes thru all the the gears just fine...but it wont lock-up the converter no matter what...

had the same problem on my 91 make sure the jumper wire has good contact from the a and f pins... then check to make sure you have power at the connector on the tranny. i think the power wire is tan cant remember right now but when i get off ill check it for ya... im betting no power to the tcc is your problem though.
where are you located in texas?

I am in breckenridge Tx...Hmmm guess i will make sure i got some juice going down there then..the TCC never worked so i figured i would jump it thru the ALDL...

i have power going to the tranny...so does anyone wanna try to tackle this ?

check the switch it self? not sure how to do it. but just an idea?

you probably need to drop your pan and replace the original switches.

ok what about this? has anyone used this after taking the computer out and going to carb? how is it on the tranny then?

I posted a way on another thread. The JET, B&M, TCI kits work but if you have time and can get a few parts, its easily done yourself for cheaper. OK, so you removed the ECM. The ECM on most models had feedback from a h-gear pressure switch in the vbody. So the ECM saw it was in 4th. Then it took infor from the MAP sensor (load) and TPS (throttle input) and sent a signal back to the TCC solenoid to lock up the converter. If you were under a load, the ECM unlocked it, if you gave it gas for passing/etc, the ecm unlocked it or if you downshifted to 3rd it unlocked it. Also the brake switch had input but not through the ECM. Now, for the TCC solenoid to operate/engage, it needs 2 things. Power and Ground. My method has the ground side going to a single pin, normally open, pressure switch on the 4th gear/high gear port on the valve body. When that switch recieves pressure (tranny goes into 4th) then it provides the Ground path (solenoind is grounded through the valvebody itself). Next we need our Power signal. Originally my car has 12v Ignition through the 'Gagues' fuse circuit going through the Brake Switch. (note some cars have 3 switches on the brake pedal). This switch is NormallyClosed (power goes through it at rest) when the brake is NOT applied. Take that signal and run it to a ManifoldVaccumSwitch which is alos NormallyClosed. These can be found on the upper firewall on a mid 80s C/K series trucks. Has a single vaccum port/tube and 2 wires plugged in on the other side (green and blue usually). Then you run that 12v ignition from those 2 componets down ti the tranny plug. Be sure to wire that from there directly to the Power side of the TCC solenoid once inside the trans. Now, when you get into 4th, the TCC solenoid engages with a ground path and the 12v ignition. If you floor it, manifold vaccum drops and the 12v ignition is interrupted from the MVSwitch. If you have to brake suddenly, then 12v ignition is interrupted from the brake switch and both cause the TCC solenoind to unlock. Also downshifting to 3rd will loose vbody pressure at the 4th switch causing no ground and the TCC to unlock. Different years have different numbers of pressure switches, different ports and different styles used. There are single pin ones that are either NormallyOpen or NormallyClosed. There are dual pin ones that are in-out. There is a 4th gear port, a 3rd gear port, a 4-3 Sequence port and a TCC engaged port (this one is by itself on the back side). There are colors on the plug side and part numbers on the thread side to help in determining what tyoe they are. A rebuild manual will show you which port is what. Most of the time you can re-use the internal wiring and leave any unused oned tied up. Hope this helps. I want to try to get a diagram up one day to help out.

wow, yeah a diagram would really help out.

why would i want to replace all the switches? there are what ? 2 or 3 pressure switches..and then an electrical switch with the wire harness..and thats the one i would suspect being bad...but i have no idea how to test that..far as taking out your computer...the easiest way to control your lockup is run it off a toggle switch from the ALDL...if your lockup was working propererly before removing your computer then when u flip the switch (over 45MPH in O.D.) then it should lockup....

I only sugested all because testing them is difficult to do and thy are not expensive. plus you know they are all fresh and reduces the chance of another failing sooner down the road

What I was referring to is a way to do it if you have done a motor swap and removed the ECM like I did. If you are running a computer-controlled car, then it is best to wire it like GM did. To answer the testing of the pressure switch, you will need a digital multi-meter, compressed air and remove the switch form the valve body. Put meter on continuity. If its a single pin/terminal switch, then put one probe on the threaded area and the other on the terminal. Blow a little air into the hole on the end and see if there is a reaction. If the switch is NO (normally open), then you will have a result of continuity when air is applied. If its NC (normally closed), then your result will have contiluity BEFORE the air is applied. Two pin/terminal switches you just put each probe on each pin/terminal. Same results apply. hope this helps

ok i have another question then...when you use the ALDL to engage the lock up...

1. if you have a bad pressure switch would using the ALDL still alow the TC to lock up?
2.what is the solenoid looking thing in the wiring harness on the tranny??how do u test it ?
3.if the pressure switches are good and you have voltage to the tranny what would keep the TC from locking up when you use the ALDL method...

BUMP!! HEYDUCKMASTER???

1. no
2. that is the TC solenoid,generally replace if in ?
3. the oring on the TC solenoid could be cracked or missing

• Ok, so I did a diagram of what I am talking about
• 1st pic shows inside the tranny. The wiring is simple and can utilize the stock wires and plugs if it is thought through by the installer.
• Basic theory is the solenoid needs Power and Ground to actuate. This actuation is what locks the Tq. Conv. Clutch in place. This method is set up to do so in 4th Gear. It will unlock if manifold vaccum drops via the Vaccum Pressure Switch under the hood that gets a direct manifold vaccum feed. This is to unlock the TCC under load so there isnt drag. It will also unlock if the brakes are applied.
• Brake Switch = Most stock F-Bodies have the proper brake switch already. This one is NormallyClosed (means the 2 wires into it are connected together as one when the brake IS NOT applied). There might be 2 on your pedal. Test them 1st with a meter to verify correct one used. If not and you only have one NormallyOpen switch, a relay can be used to get the signal and trigger from the existing one.
• Manifold Vacc. Switch = PATC sells both a stock one and an adjustable one. Also mid 80s C/K - Series trucks have them on the upper rght firewall. Blue and Green wires are usually presesnt along with a vaccum tube on the end. An adjustable one might be needed for some cam setups.
• V.Body Pressure Switch 4th Gear = Most stock valve bodies have numerous pressure switches. Some are 2 pin and some are 1 pin. Also in the mix is NormallyOpen and NormallyClosed. My setup is looking to use a SinglePin Normally Open. Any unused switches can be removed and a 1/8th plug put in the port. Be sure they are plugged and dont leak.
• Wiring Inside = This is simple theory. The Black/Ground of the solenoid is to go directly to the Pressure Switch on the 4th Gear port. The P.Switch is self grounding by nature and when a N.Open one is used, it will provide the ground path needed for the TCC Solenoid to operate. This action is applied when the tranny goes into 4th Gear and released when it is dropped out of 4th. Both normal kickdown or manual downshift will unlock the TCC.
• Wiring Inside = The Red/Power of the solenoid will go directly to the TCC CasePlug on the tranny. If you are doing your own wiring and have eliminated the computer, you can just use any wire inside and just make sure to complement it outside with the rest of the instructions.
• Wiring Outside = If you already have a proper BrakeSwitch, then start at the output side of it. The B.Switch gets its power from the Gagues Fuse in the fuse panel. It has power when ignition is turned on. Unplug the switch at the brake and tuen ignition ON. Verify with a voltmeter which wire at the plug had power. That is the source/fused side. The other side is your output. (If you are wiring from scratch, get 12V ignition, fuse it B4 the B.Switch with a 10A fuse. Pick whatever in/out at the switch plug after you cut it off)
• W.Outside Continued = Now that you have 12V Ignition into B.Switch and an output, (turn ignition off) run that wire to the Vaccum Pressure Switch underhood. You should have a 2-wire pigtail from your donor or came with the one you bought. Wire that B.Switch wire to one of the V.Switch wires. Doesnt matter which one. Mount switch and plug in a manifold vaccum source. Verify it when you get a chance. Now run the output from that P.Switch down to your tranny. Wire it to the case plug terminal that corresponds with your inside Positive/Red wire that goes directly to the TCC Solenoid.
• You can turn on ignition and verify 12V with a voltmeter at the solenoid or plug. Have an assistant tap the brake pedal and verify it looses power. Have another assistant sucking the vaccum switch tube while checking the brake switch. Also have them releace the vaccum switch while you are verifying power, so you know its working as well.
• Additionally = If a manual switch in the vehicle is preferred do this in addition to what you already did. Wire one of the switch wires to a ground. Wire the other to the tranny case plug and pick one of the leftover/unused wires. Inside, take that corresponding wire from the inner case plug and run it to the Negative/Black wire of the TCC Solenoid. Attach it.....along with the already wired Press. Switch. Now you can manually lock it up by manually providing a ground path. I guess this is just in case you need it in 3rd sometimes. I prefer it just in 4th myself.
• Also be sure to cap off any wires unused that were cut off the original plugs. Be safe.
• Heres some simple diagrams to help out better. Sorry its kinda crayon-like . But MS Paint was easiest to do on quick notice.
• Hope this helps and input/criticism is welcome.
• 
  Quote:

  Originally Posted by 91 camaro racer wow, yeah a diagram would really help out.

dude thats awesome work there..my wife asked what game i was playing when i was reading it....she is a little

hahahaha..thats great! And THX. Worked with what I had. The 2nd picture is the 1st picture. I just did white out and drew the diagram over it. =)

Also Id like to note a few things. 1st, is that anyone should educate and understand exactly what they are doing here before attempting it. Get a diagram of your stock setup is best if you are attempting to do it on an otherwise stock vehicle. There were many different OEM lockup configurations. The way mine worked was it had a 12v Ignition to the plug on one pin, a signal OUT to the ECM from the hi-gear switch in the v.body and a signal from the ECM back to the tranny. The ECM read things like MAP sensor and TPS to determine load and such. I did have the Brake Switch already in line on the 12v Ignition. This method is really for Non-ECM vehicles like mine. A few companies sell a similar 'KIT' to accomplich this. But they are around $80-$100. Superior and a few companies sell a hydraulic lockup kit which does everything internally pretty much. But some years models they dont work in.....so I hear. Capping any unused wires, testing thouroughly, using a multi-meter like a Fluke and knowledge of the trans operations are nessesary. I express NO Liability. Just trying to encourage do-it-yourselfing. =) Hit me up if you hae and questions or constructive criticism.