michael

iTrader: (1)

I installed a new clutch kit today with a lot of the members from NTTGA. I had to replace it due to the flange on the throwout bearing sheering off when I depressed the clutch pedal last Friday. I'm having a real notchy feeling when shifting and it doesn't seem like the clutch is disengaging enough. I also have some clutch chatter, but I'm reading that that is normal for the first 700-800 miles sometimes more.

The pedal doesn't feel as firm as it used to and it will shift much better if I pump it before I drive it. I will be leaving the car parked until I fix this problem though due to the fact that I don't want to tear anything up.

What is the process for bleeding the externally mounted LT1 style hydraulics?

Keoman

iTrader: (3)

for future searches...

http://performanceworks1.com/ls1_clutch_bleeding.htm

87v6Bird

iTrader: (1)

If you don't have a Mighty Vac, you can also unbolt the slave cylinder from the transmission and manually pump it. Be sure to hold the slave vertically so air can escape from it and hold your clutch pedal up. Just keep an eye on your fluid level so you don't accidentally draw more air into the system.

Keoman

iTrader: (3)

Didnt even use a mityvac, pulled a vacuum with my mouth and had my brother pump the clutch. Works as good as it did new before the stupid roll pin decided to just come out one day.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...p-4th-gen.html

jmd

iTrader: (4)

That would be helpful if

1. It was relevant to the LT1 style hydraulics.
2. It showed how to bleed a clutch.

The Ranger method isn't clutch bleeding that addresses the slave. It's a feelgood that you can get lots of Vette guys to swallow.

This is the factory method as the LT1 slave lacks a bleeder. Replacements that may include a slave bleeder may change things.

Keoman

iTrader: (3)

I know you are being snide, but I am interested in what you mean?

I only ask because I did it this morning and it worked perfect. The roll pin came out of the master cylinder side, perhaps no air reached the slave cylinder which is why this worked for me?

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

You dont need to bleed LT1 hydros unless the resevoir goes empty and sucks air into it. It will self-bleed through use, anyway.

cuisinartvette

Had the same issue with a new GM slave. Pumping the pedal I dont know how many times solved it. Others never needed it this one did. That was quite awhile ago works fine. Notchy feel gone

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

Has anyone used this technique? Need to do it for my 2000 WS6 I think. Installed new Luk Clutch/Plate/FW/Slave/Master combo seems like it needs bled a little more.