Transmissions and DrivetrainNeed help with your trans? Problems with your axle?
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I GOT A 1357-071 FROM A JUNK YARD AND PUTTING TO BEHING MY 350 BLOCK IS THE TRANS WORTH USING OR IS JUNK AND IF SO WHAT WILL I
HAVE TO CHANGE TO MAKE IT WORK?
I GOT A 1357-071 FROM A JUNK YARD AND PUTTING TO BEHING MY 350 BLOCK IS THE TRANS WORTH USING OR IS JUNK AND IF SO WHAT WILL I
HAVE TO CHANGE TO MAKE IT WORK?
According to the chart near the beginning of this thread, an 071 model is a V6 trans. A V6 trans is definitely not worth running behind a V8. The ratios are crap for use with a V8 motor. In addition to that, you'd have to get a custom clutch disc that's the correct diameter (10.4") with a special 14 spline hub. The V8 T5's use a 26 spline input shaft. Your best bet would be to sell the V6 trans on ebay and put the money towards a V8 trans.
__________________ 89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."
I just thought I'd add this. I have broke several T5 transmissions in my 4X4 S10 (with a '94 Camaro 3.4 and SFI). It's a little hard to find 4X4 T5 transmissions, so I have converted several T4 transmissions into NWC T5s. There are some T4 transmissions that have the extention on the counter shaft that allows you to add 5th gear to it. By changing the internal shift linkage and the extention housing you can make it a T5.
Last edited by big gear head; 12-16-2008 at 09:19 PM.
seeing as theres confusion on what fluid to use in the non-wc t5 Im wondering, has anyone tried synchromesh? Im thinking its similar to 5w-30 and it seems someones used just about everything else. Im just wondering if it might be a happy medium between gear oil and atf. also its been said synthetics should be avoided, is that just when using atf or for all fluid? thanks
Guys I need some help. I'm replacing the fluid for the first time on my WC T-5.
I need to know the fluid capacity, because I cannot remove the fill plug, even after soaking it in WD-40. Whoever tightened it on last really did it - I put a breaker bar combined with a fat 2 foot pipe for leverage and it WOULDN'T EVEN BUDGE =[
Ok. I have read a good bit of info in this area, but I have a few more questions that I did not see asked. If they was asked I missed them, anyways. First question is, Compared to a TH350, is a T5 the same length? And second question is, The bar that goes from tail shaft of the transmission to the rear end, will it bolt directly to a T5?
This is the deal, I want to swap my automatic for a straight drive. What is the best route? I have a 1982 with a 350 bored 0.030 over with a TH-350 turbo. The car was a 305 with a 200 metric. Any help would be appreciated.
The bar from the tailshaft to the rear end is the torque arm, and yes it is the same for 700R4's and T5's. I do not know if its the same for TH200's and Super T10's.
One problem with the torque arms is the direction of the rounded part, also called the "lips". Some torque arms have the lips facing the left side and some face the passenger side. You'll need to pay attention to this when getting the torque arm mount on the tailshaft.
are any special tools required to rebuild a NWC t5? bevause i read something somewhere that you need some kinday pulling thing to rebuild a t56 so i want to make sure before i buy a rebuild kit...
are any special tools required to rebuild a NWC t5? bevause i read something somewhere that you need some kinday pulling thing to rebuild a t56 so i want to make sure before i buy a rebuild kit...
could i use a v8 first gear and a .63 overdrive gear with my v6 trans? i dont like the short first gear, and would like the better overdrive... and i could get those, but i dont know what snap ring pliers are?
thank you!
Guys I need some help. I'm replacing the fluid for the first time on my WC T-5.
I need to know the fluid capacity, because I cannot remove the fill plug, even after soaking it in WD-40. Whoever tightened it on last really did it - I put a breaker bar combined with a fat 2 foot pipe for leverage and it WOULDN'T EVEN BUDGE =[
The bolt pattern that is on the trans case where it mounts to the bell housing is different. Also, I learned from this thread that the 4th gen V6 T5's input shaft is a tad longer as well.
1.) Is the bolt pattern on the T5 case the same for all V8 as well as V6 3rd gen T5s? So that, ignoring the spline count difference, could you bolt a V8 T5 into a V6 and vice versa(IE: will a V8 T5 bolt to a V6 bell housing and will a V6 T5 bolt to a V8 bell housing)?
2.) Other than the spline count difference, are the 3rd gen V6 and V8 T5 input shafts the same length? Does anyone have a depth measurement for a stock V8 T5 bellhousing from the engine mounting flange to the transmission mounting flange?
3.) Is the diameter of the part of the input shaft that engauges the pilot bushing the same diameter for a V8 and V6 T5?
i wanted to know if you could help me with this i ran into this problem i seized my t-5 in my camaro and i bought a used t-5 off of a guy on MIFbody and when i had it put int this pressure plate did not fit i think it was too small but there is not metal tags on it all i have are all the cast number i wanted to know if anyone could tell me what this t-5 came out of i was reading what all they put them in so the guy i got if from said he pulled it off his 85z28 that had a 350 in it and he did not know if the trans was original i don't think it is so here are the cast numbers
First off -use punctuation so us older folks can understand WTF you're saying.
Second - if there's a 350 AND a T-5 in a Camaro or Firebird, one or the other (maybe both) isn't original.
Third - I can't figure out what you're asking. do you need to know which pressure plate you need? or do you need to know part numbers? what are you asking for?
Last edited by flyitlikustolit; 09-04-2009 at 04:51 AM.
i wanted to know if you could help me with this i ran into this problem i seized my t-5 in my camaro and i bought a used t-5 off of a guy on MIFbody and when i had it put int this pressure plate did not fit i think it was too small but there is not metal tags on it all i have are all the cast number i wanted to know if anyone could tell me what this t-5 came out of i was reading what all they put them in so the guy i got if from said he pulled it off his 85z28 that had a 350 in it and he did not know if the trans was original i don't think it is so here are the cast numbers
These are the numbers the shop gave me. Hope you can help me out. Thanks
If you look towards the top of this thread on the first page, I posted a list of all the T5 model numbers. According to the list I posted, and looking at the number from the sticker that you posted, it's a 1983, 4 cylinder T5. If that's the case, then the input shaft only has 14 splines on it. All the V8 T5's have a 26 spline input shaft. If that's the issue you have, your only reasonable option would be to get a 3rd gen, V8 T5 so that it'll work with your clutch disc. If you search the boards, somebody posted an oddball, 14 spline clutch disc that can be used so that you can run the 14 spline T5 behind a V8. I think the original application for that oddball disc is for a 4.3L S-10 if I remember right. In all honesty though, the 4 and 6 cylinder T5's really suck behind a V8. The ratios in them are way different from the V8 T5's. In fact, that list I have posted on here also has the gear ratios for each T5. Take a look at the difference in the ratios between the trans you have right now and the ratios for the V8 ones, and you'll see why they're not really suited for running with a V8. I just looked up the ratios for your trans, and it's not as bad as the ones that have a 4.03 1st gear, yours is 3.50, but the V8 ones have a 2.95 1st gear. A 3.50 1st gear is like having a granny gear in a dump truck.
Pat - not to hijack, but if he's running (numerically) low gears, like say 2.73s, wouldn't a 3.50 1st gear be ok? I could have my math backwards, which is why I'm asking. the steeper gearing in the smaller-engine T5s was specifically to counteract the tall gears of the other models, I thought.
Pat - not to hijack, but if he's running (numerically) low gears, like say 2.73s, wouldn't a 3.50 1st gear be ok? I could have my math backwards, which is why I'm asking. the steeper gearing in the smaller-engine T5s was specifically to counteract the tall gears of the other models, I thought.
Actually, you're completely right on that one. If he indeed has 2.73 gears, then that 3.50 1st gear would be ideal. It'd probably even be ok with 3.08's as well. 3.23 or numerically higher, which most manual trans cars should have by all rights, and it'd be too much. I'm running a TKO with the 3.27 1st gear and 3.42's out back, and man, 1st gear tops out pretty damn quick! The reason they put such a low gear in the 4 and 6 cylinder trannys was to compensate for the lack of torque those motors have compared to a V8. Every 6 cylinder 3rd gen also always has either 3.42 (manual trans) or 3.23 (auto trans) rearend gears too. The old 4 cylinder 3rd gens commonly got 3.73 rear gears.
__________________ 89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."
sweet. good to know the desert hasn't TOTALLY fried my brain yet.... looks like if I want the better gears I should check the 4 cyl and 6 cyl cars with manuals, eh?
The transmissions with the 4.03 and 3.50 first gear are going to be much weaker than the 2.95 transmission. Also, the 4 cylinder and 60 degree V6 transmissions have a longer input shaft than the V8 transmissions, so they won't mate to the bellhousing before the input shaft bottoms out on the crankshaft. There was a 14 spline clutch disc used in the 4.3 Astro van that will work with this transmission, but you must do some modifitcations to the input shaft and front bearing retainer to make it work.
Since I'm actually running the V6 T5 behind a 350, I'll add my .
The clutch disc that Pat Hall and Big Gear Head are referring to is from an 82 GMC S15 with a 2.8L V6. Part # at Autozone is CP4201, it has the 14 splines and is listed at 9 11/16" diameter.
Centerforce used to make a 10.5" 14 spline clutch disc for S10 V8 conversions but Summit apparently doesn't carry it anymore.
You could also try a disc from an Chevy Astro Van with the 4.3L V6, but it's an 11" clutch so I'm not sure it will fit inside the pressure plate.
As for transmission modifications, you need to cut about 1/4" off the front of the input shaft. I also used my angle grinder to chamfer the leading edge of the input shaft like it was originally. That is the only change I had to make to the transmission to get it to bolt up.
First gear is very short as was mentioned, I find myself shifting almost immediately into 2nd with 3.42 rear gears.
sweet. good to know the desert hasn't TOTALLY fried my brain yet.... looks like if I want the better gears I should check the 4 cyl and 6 cyl cars with manuals, eh?
If you're worried about the desert frying your brain, I'm assuming you don't live in FL anymore? Where I'm at, I'm so sick of the heat I can't wait until Oct. so I can actually go out and wrench in the garage comfortably! But yeah, the 6 cylinder cars are a sure-fire bet for finding 3 series rears. Good call above on shortening the input shaft. I forgot all about that. There was a guy who posted up some time ago, with pictures and everything on how to go about shortening it. He also listed the funky clutch disc that's needed.
__________________ 89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."
nope - FL is still home, but I'm in Iraq ATM. 5 more months and I'll be finishing my engine. I did the tranny swap (the hard parts anyway) before I left, because I had the time, tools, lift, an parts. it wasn't very difficult at all, and I can't wait to try it behind the 383. I read through this thread a lot to make sure I had everything needed and when I didn't, I found what I was missing.
as for the funky clutch and shortening the shaft - bigger cojones than meself! I'm not so sure I would've attempted that, meself!!! kudos for making it work. the chamfer was probably a good idea, too.
I did a LOT of reading on here and researching part numbers/clutch disc sizes before I finally settled on my setup. Unfortunately, I didn't know about the input shaft length until I was trying to bolt the transmission/bellhousing to the back of the engine. I figured it was hung up on the pilot bearing and kept tightening the bolts until I cracked the bellhousing at one of the alignment pin holes.
The cutting/chamfering was not difficult, it took me about 5 minutes to do with my angle grinder. The hardest part was figuring out how much to take off. I used a cutoff wheel about 1/16" thick and cut it right behind the original chamfer so that I shortened it by the length of the chamfer + the thickness of the cutoff disc. Then I chamfered that edge back about 1/8" at roughly a 45* angle.
The only issue I have noticed is that the clutch will slip a bit if I stomp the gas. I haven't done it that much seeing as the engine was just rebuilt and I'm still breaking it in and trying to tune the carb. I'm not running a hugely powerful engine though. Power estimates in Desktop Dyno are around 300HP and 385 torque.
Well, I have heard a lot of good things about that shifter and have ordered one. The people from MGW said it should bolt up to any T5, the just were not sure how the shifter knob would line up in the cabin. I should have it in a couple days. Will post progress if any.
I always find new stories of the Ford guys using the T5 from the 2.3L Mustangs in their 5.0 cars because of supply and demand, and most of them hold up to the torque, just not the powershifting and clutch dumps from dead stops. I got in a bind with a 305, so I tried the T5 from an '85 Camaro 2.8L. the 3.50:1 first wasn't too insane, and the 0.78:1 fifth was better than no OD at all, and it held up for nearly 3 years. Also, your gear ratio info on the Ford V8 versions is missing these details: Sometime around '83, The 5.0L Mustangs switched from the 3+1 manual trans to the T5 with 2.95/1.94/1.34/1.00/0.73 ratios, the same ratios as the mid-'83 through late '84 305 F-cars. The '85 5.0L Mustangs all had the above T5-V, And that continued through '88. The '89 Mustang 5.0 got the World Class improvements, and a new second gear ratio of 1.99:1 and a new third gear ratio of 1.333:1. All '85-'93 5.0L Mustangs with T5 had a 3.35:1 first and a 0.68:1 fifth, NO exceptions.
Ok im new to this thing and was wondering if you could answer a question for me.
Im getting an 88' firebird with a 2.8 V6 automatic. I was wondering what kind of transmissions came with those?
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If you're worried about the desert frying your brain, I'm assuming you don't live in FL anymore? Where I'm at, I'm so sick of the heat I can't wait until Oct. so I can actually go out and wrench in the garage comfortably! But yeah, the 6 cylinder cars are a sure-fire bet for finding 3 series rears. Good call above on shortening the input shaft. I forgot all about that. There was a guy who posted up some time ago, with pictures and everything on how to go about shortening it. He also listed the funky clutch disc that's needed. 
