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If you are dead set on a T10 transmission you should make a new thread. The information contained in this thread should be specific to the T56 swap itself. It will reduce confusion for when people are actually looking for T56 specific information.
Anyone ever find out what that shim was for under the FW? on page 1?
Have a PN on it or the GM LT1 throwout bearing?\
Did the LT1 T56 cars come witth pilot bushings or bearings. PN?
Having some issues with my conversion clutch doesnt seem to be disengaging quiite enough synchros arent happy. Trans guy mentioned something about a shim...was wondering about the one on P1
Also the PP bolts are long discontinued, use Mc Cleod 1502
As sofa said NO other bolts, youll regret it.
Also on the CF fw dont worry about weight is way overrated.
Anyone ever find out what that shim was for under the FW? on page 1?
Have a PN on it or the GM LT1 throwout bearing?\
Did the LT1 T56 cars come witth pilot bushings or bearings. PN?
Having some issues with my conversion clutch doesnt seem to be disengaging quiite enough synchros arent happy. Trans guy mentioned something about a shim...was wondering about the one on P1
Also the PP bolts are long discontinued, use Mc Cleod 1502
As sofa said NO other bolts, youll regret it.
Also on the CF fw dont worry about weight is way overrated.
TOB comes attached to the pressure plate.
I'm sure they all came with pilot bushings but i would and did use a bearing.
I'm not sure about that shim but I don't think it has anything to do with the clutch engagement/disengagement. If this was a push clutch rather then pull then yes you could use TOB shims to adjust your engagement 'too much shim and it won't disengage all the way'.
True that on the bolts!!!
As far as "dont worry about weight is way overrated", i couldn't disagree more. If you couldn't feel the difference then i would say it is way overrated BUT, the difference is SOO obvious and of course it depends on how much power your trying to push through it. If your not pushing some real horsepower then stick with a heavy flywheel.
Anyone ever find out what that shim was for under the FW? on page 1?
Have a PN on it or the GM LT1 throwout bearing?\
To maintain total flywheel height when turning one.
10085246 is one number.
Having some issues with my conversion clutch doesnt seem to be disengaging quiite enough synchros arent happy. Trans guy mentioned something about a shim...was wondering about the one on P1
Your total height (Valeo style LT1 T56 clutch) is very unlikely to be too short in causing the isuse, so that shim wouldn't be needed. The pull clutches end up being too tall, causing an issue. If anything, surfacing the mounting surface of the flywheel could help achieve a shorter height.
youre right I worded that wrong too tall could be it
Tried putting a Sachs and this Centerforce side by side but that apparently means nothing its once they are torqued down that decides where the T/O bearing sits. The CF clutch fingers dont angle down much the Sachs/stock stuff does.
Gonna put it all together and take a closer look at whats doing what how far it takes the slave rod to actually disengage go from there. Its always been "Ok" but never "quite right". A nicely working setup should shift like butter all the time
Maybe its cheaper and better to use aftermarket T-56 Magnum with full size bell housing that already comes with mechanical and electronic speedo provisioning?
Contact Alloy on here who does the tailshaft conversion. $325 I think, works great. Had it done to mine, no clunky/noisy converter box and a lot cheaper than what SW Fab is charging for same thing.
Allioys website: www.t56cablespeedometer.com
The pull clutches end up being too tall, causing an issue.
Gotta agree here Gm quit doing this for a reason.
Spoken to enough clutch co's, even D and D agreed.
None of them arewihtout release issues the hydraulics suck. LS trans/clutch deal is the way to go sounds like
Thought about modding the TO bearing or fork to get a little more release out of it cant tell with a scattershield on it.
Sinking too much $ into this trans which doesnt even reeeealy need it. Doing everything new this time round
If its right then good otherwise I may just sell the car rather than do yet another conversin. Love it but the thousands dumped every time I turn around is just killing me.
Maybe its cheaper and better to use aftermarket T-56 Magnum with full size bell housing that already comes with mechanical and electronic speedo provisioning?
Alloy!
I just crested the 3k mark with my alloy mechanical speedo conversion, not one single problem!!
Sorry to bring this back from the dead and I'm sorry if I missed the info in the thread.
Dyno Don and Anaheim Gear found what had to be the very last, brand new T-56 on the face of God's green earth. A great big thanks to both!!!!!!
It is now sitting in my Camaro, having replaced a T5 that sounded like death warmed over, after sitting on a shelf some place in Oregon for who knows how long.
As everybody knows, I had to add about a gallon of Dexron III. I wanted synthetic and that is what Don and I picked up.
When I went on the Tremec website FAQs I noticed that they DO NOT recommend synthetic and state it may void their warranty.
Regardless, I wish I'd gotten the T-56 far sooner.
I have read this thread all the way through and it has helped me decide to swap to a T56. The information you have posted will be very helpful i'm sure.
Since my car is already stripped and I happen to have a set of third gen manual pedals I thought I would mount them up. WRONG. When my car was converted to right hand drive the fire wall was completely changed. The steering column now goes through where the master cylinder should mount.
Hey Aussie. I know this is really old thread but did you ever do your T56 conversion...? I'm in Brisbane and about to get into a resto on an 86' Z28... it's RHD and auto but I'd much rather be driving a manual. There's most likely an LS engine swap on the cards too so makes sense to me but I don't know if I can do it on a converted car...?
I swapped into my 1987 auto camaro a ls1 and 6 speed from a 1999 z28, after installing a oem clutch master cylinder im having problems with the clutch not disengaging,, what do you guys think will be the solution? They are telling me to buy a adjustable master cylinder.
Was it a new clutch?
Did you shim the throwout bearing?
Resurface the flywheel?
i pulled the motor and tranny out as one unit and put it in as one unit, the clutch was new before swapping. so i didnt tak anything apart. just bought new clutxh master cylinder and a set of 4th gen peddles and installed it. what should i do?
im confused, so if the tranny was in perfect condition proir to swapping why would i have to pull it apart to see whats in there? I was think it had to do with the pedals and differents throw, thats why i was thinking clutch master would work
So can anyone tell me how to hook up my torque arm? Spohn told me their x member torque arm mount kit won't work because its made for 93-97 t56. This is a brand new magnum from Chevy performance. Been waiting for Hawks to get back to me with solution but never heard back after they sent me this xmember and bracket that mounts to no where.
So can anyone tell me how to hook up my torque arm? Spohn told me their x member torque arm mount kit won't work because its made for 93-97 t56. This is a brand new magnum from Chevy performance. Been waiting for Hawks to get back to me with solution but never heard back after they sent me this xmember and bracket that mounts to no where.
So can anyone tell me how to hook up my torque arm? Spohn told me their x member torque arm mount kit won't work because its made for 93-97 t56. This is a brand new magnum from Chevy performance. Been waiting for Hawks to get back to me with solution but never heard back after they sent me this xmember and bracket that mounts to no where.
You need to contact Magnum about this, or go with an aftermarket torque arm that uses a tunnel mount.
Hawks' X-member is specifically made for the GM T56.
Thank you, I ordered sub frame connectors with crossbar to mount torque arm to. Also got the hawks sinister torque arm to go with it. Hopefully it works.
Thank you, I ordered sub frame connectors with crossbar to mount torque arm to. Also got the hawks sinister torque arm to go with it. Hopefully it works.
-I've read through this thread and many others, and still haven't made a decision on the best pedal and hydraulics combo. Ive seen a few people mention the thirdgen pedal set with a fourth gen clutch pedal. Has anyone tried this yet? I like the "beefiness" and fitment of the thirdgen setup, but I want the engagement point somewhere around the lower middle of the clutch pedal travel with a nice friction zone feel that isn't horribly long. Best way to go about this? Heard that the Cavalier slave makes the friction zone very long and soft, and possibly towards the top of the pedal travel. Not entirely opposed to doing the turnbuckle mod or a Tick MC.
-The VSS goes off of the speedo in early CCC Qjet thirdgens, correct? If I have my tail shaft modded to run my mechanical speedo, that covers everything VSS and ECM related?
-Scatter shield: I have a stock 5000 RPM 305 now. Will be running the RAM SFI approved 18# aluminum flywheel and a SPEC stg. 1 or 2 (still undecided), ARP flywheel bolts, and the recommended PP bolts. Car will only be used for spirited street driving, autocross, and some HPDE/ hot lapping events. I feel like this may be overkill? But after reading horror stories, I'm kicking the idea around.
I've run across two options, the QuickTime and the McLeod. Pricing is SIGNIFICANTLY better on the McLeod, but there isn't much info on it. McLeod's website sucks. Any input there? I've done a few HPDE's and a drift event in my LS1 Formula and I've done several events (and many 6-7000 RPM clutch kicks) in my aw11 MR2 without giving it a second thought, but when researching the lightweight flywheel, I did begin to consider that I do like my legs, even if they aren't as pretty as the fairer sex's If I'm being paranoid, I'll just hold off and run the stock BH until I get around to throwing something together with a little more power and a higher redline.
Last edited by midnightfirews6; 12-22-2016 at 10:32 AM.
Yes the VSS is behind the speedometer and runs off the speedometer cable.
Its been 8 years since I did my swap and i used the 3rd gen pedals and made the push rod adjustable. Has been working perfectly for years now.
If you decide to have your tail housing modded for cable drive PM me. I am the one that does them.
Originally Posted by midnightfirews6
I'm finally doing the thing!
Questions:
-I've read through this thread and many others, and still haven't made a decision on the best pedal and hydraulics combo. Ive seen a few people mention the thirdgen pedal set with a fourth gen clutch pedal. Has anyone tried this yet? I like the "beefiness" and fitment of the thirdgen setup, but I want the engagement point somewhere around the lower middle of the clutch pedal travel with a nice friction zone feel that isn't horribly long. Best way to go about this? Heard that the Cavalier slave makes the friction zone very long and soft, and possibly towards the top of the pedal travel. Not entirely opposed to doing the turnbuckle mod or a Tick MC.
-The VSS goes off of the speedo in early CCC Qjet thirdgens, correct? If I have my tail shaft modded to run my mechanical speedo, that covers everything VSS and ECM related?
I just finished converting from t5 to t56 in my 91. clutch pedal feels good and everything seems fine. when I release the pedal it does not engage until the pedal is almost out. it feels weak. same for in reverse. no noise or chatter. there is smoke and smells like burnt clutch. suggestions?
I just finished converting from t5 to t56 in my 91. clutch pedal feels good and everything seems fine. when I release the pedal it does not engage until the pedal is almost out. it feels weak. same for in reverse. no noise or chatter. there is smoke and smells like burnt clutch. suggestions?
The linkage is "too tight" and is not fully releasing the pressure plate. This is similar to if you had for foot on the clutch pedal and not fully releasing it.
I assume you have an LT-style T56 with pull clutch. You can start by backing off the slave cylinder, put some washers (spacers) between it and the mount, and see if that helps.
I just finished converting from t5 to t56 in my 91. clutch pedal feels good and everything seems fine. when I release the pedal it does not engage until the pedal is almost out. it feels weak. same for in reverse. no noise or chatter. there is smoke and smells like burnt clutch. suggestions?
Did you have any history of the parts, or were they new?
Did you use a 93-97 master and slave or something else?
There are ways to change it, but clutch release is very quickly changed by changes to the "geometry" of things. Adjustable master cylinder pushrods might be something to try.
Got t56 from a 95 everything came from the same car except the master slave assembly. It's the correct master slave. Got it used.It seems to be working. I was told the trans came out of a running car. Do I know absolutely the condition before I got it ? No.
The linkage is "too tight" and is not fully releasing the pressure plate. This is similar to if you had for foot on the clutch pedal and not fully releasing it.
I assume you have an LT-style T56 with pull clutch. You can start by backing off the slave cylinder, put some washers (spacers) between it and the mount, and see if that helps.
It did help a little. Reverse seems ok. But in first it. Feels like I'm taking off in third. The pedal also seems to be further out than before. I'm still thinking the clutch is really the problem
Using spacers where they dont belong isnt fixing the problem. I suspect the clutch to be the problem. You should have installed a NEW clutch assembly when you did this swap.
I did this swap on my last car back in 2002 and a new slave cylinder assembly was just about $150 from the dealer. No point in buying one from a junkyard when its that cheap at the dealer. Sometimes, spending a few more dollars actually saves you money in the long run.
Now, you you're going to have to do the job all over again and if you're doing it on your back then I feel your pain because I've pulled my T56 in and out of my car about 5 or 6 times over the past 10 years....on my back.
Do yourself a favor and buy a new clutch assembly and slave assembly. Make sure the flywheel is not worn down either. I had a SLP flywheel what I bought used MANY years ago and then had it resurfaced. Well, it must have been the 3rd time it was done because it was out of SLPs specs when I measured it. In the trash it went.
And there is no "linkage" in the LT style T56 setup. The slave cylinder is a pre bled part that simply bolts to the side of the transmission on the two long threaded studs. The ball on the end of the rod then sits inside the cup on the tip of the fork which then pivots on the throwout bearing which is pre installed on the pressure plate. If you do not get the fork fully seated on the throwout bearing then it will drop out and cause the other end of it to jam itself into the aluminum spacer. This will also cause the fork to rub on the pressure plate which will make a terrible noise.
It did help a little. Reverse seems ok. But in first it. Feels like I'm taking off in third. The pedal also seems to be further out than before. I'm still thinking the clutch is really the problem
If you're running third gen pedals with 4th gen hydraulics, the master is moved quicker than in a T56 car. The stud on the pedal went higher in 93.
The pedals are very useable in a third gen if you want a more modulateable clutch pedal. Or the pre is a Cavalier slave cylinder that works with larger bore.
If your clutch isn't slipping more progressively in higher gears ( more in 5th than 3rd ) it may just be a case of the clutch engaging quickly and leading to slippage/grab that's very on/off with little in between.
The hydraulics are good got them from a friend. The flywheel I just took down and got it resurfaced. The old clutch and pp was toast. New set up going in Saturday.
The flywheel I just took down and got it resurfaced.
The flywheel could be the issue. With a traditional "push" pressure plate, cutting the flywheel will increase the PP-breaing gap and lower the pedal. Too far, becomes pushing the pedal to the floor doesn't free the clutch, leading to gear grinding.
The "pull" pressure plate of the LT-T56 means cutting the flywheel closes any gaps, becomes pre-engaging the PP, and not allowing the PP to fully grip the clutch, moves the pedal higher to fully engage... The washer/spacer is cheap, easy band-aid to determine if there lies the problem.
Additionally, that worn clutch disc (too thin) in this "pull" system causes the PP to have to extend further. This reduces the mechanical grip of the PP... As you extend a spring, the amount of force it can apply is reduced.
All in and running. Seems much better although if I push the clutch all the way to the floor I hear a sound like the clutch assembly is rubbing on something. I checked the fork and it seemed fine. Suggestions!
if I push the clutch all the way to the floor I hear a sound like the clutch assembly is rubbing on something. I checked the fork and it seemed fine.
Typically, that is overtravelling, and the fork is contacting the edge of the pressure plate. Add a little more spacer. Or, put a stop block to limit the clutch pedal.
Typically, that is overtravelling, and the fork is contacting the edge of the pressure plate. Add a little more spacer. Or, put a stop block to limit the clutch pedal.
Has anyone done the pull to push style clutch conversion recently? Im having a hard time finding a kit for the 2 piece rear main, and lt1 t56 combo. Any help is appreciated!!
10-15-2013, 11:59 AM
