online170

EDIT:

I forgot to mention two points while doing the last write up. I started at 12am, and finished at 2, so it was a long thread!

In any case.

Point #1.
You may have noticed, i chose not to wire up the Reverse Lockout solenoid. Its just personal preference. I may wire it to a switch if i get tired of fighting with it, but i dont like the idea of it running of the brakes. If i DO decide to wire it up, i can still add to this thread.

Point #2.
I forgot to mention, the driver side lower dash cover. The big peice that hides all the wires by your legs. In my car this was the case, id imagine Generic Motors did similar setups for earlier cars.
The cover was made for an automatic setup, and as such, had two inserts. One for gas, and one for brake. Obviously when you put a third pedal in there, youre gonna have fitment issues.


GM was nice enough to leave you an outlined insert for the third pedal. All you gotta do is cut it out. Its a little bit wider than what you need, but it works.




(Original post here, has been moved two down).

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

Nice car, nice thread, tons of great info! i think this should be moved to the FAQs or turned into a STICKY!! tons of good info on here and if not saved itll go right into the gutter!

online170

Heres what the finished product looks like. Special thanks to sofakingdom, and vbmike for helpin me with the tricky stuff, and everyone in general who helped out.

It was MUCH harder to put this thread together, than it was to do the actual swap (hope that helps motivate some of you).

Earlier on i said, im not sure if the trans is worth it, but i think it is because the car feels much quicker now, and i am getting 34 MPG highway!!! I think my city mileage has also improved (used to be 11).

So anyway, im glad i dont have to do any more writing up on this, and i HOPE this will be helpful to some of you thinking to do this in the future. I have tons more pix, so if anybody is looking for something specific, let me know.

Meanwhile, i will go enjoy being one of very very few firebird T56's on the board! Cheers.

THE END

vbMike

iTrader: (2)

Nice job. Great write up. I had just a couple thoughts when reading through this last part.

You can get this plastic inserts at autozone or advance auto. They have them in a small plastic pack in the "Help" section for a few dollars.

Actually it is supposed to be wirred to the cruse control switch that is also on the brake pedal. That way if you have your cruse set and you push in the clutch to shift it will turn the cruse off so they you don't red line the engine.

online170

Will keep that in mind. I will hook up my cruise eventually, just not a priority right now.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Im in the process of trying to pull this off myself... Sorry to bump an old thread, but htis is a good one and as Im doing my swap I keep coming back to it.

A few questions... Given your experience with it, would it be a better idea you think to mark the spots to drill for the pedals using the pedals as a template instead of the matting? Because I'm finding my pedals dont line up perfectly with the matting.

Also, is there any special hardware to attach the clutch linkage to the pedal, or will just a bolt and a couple of nuts suffice? Seems like a kind of haphazard way to do it and I keep thinking there must be some more correct way, but I've never seen a factory manual car to compare.

And lastly... what the heck is this black box thing? I didnt spot it on any of your pictures...



Im not sure if it will be in the way of my hole or not... I'm guessing no, so it's probably safe to leave it... but do I need it?

online170

1) DEFINATELY bolt up the pedals before drilling. Infact, drill through them, that way theres no way you can miss. As you saw, i definately missed, and it was way off.

2) Not sure what you mean by "linkage", but if youre talking about the master cylinder "rod" that hangs onto the clutch pedal assembly, it will require a retaining clip. I went and bought an actual GM part to put on, but a C-clip from any parts store will suffice. I would get an assorted set, because i dont know the size.

3) I really have no idea what that black box is. You can see the depression of where the T5 is supposed to be in your tranny tunnel now, just look close. Figure two inches back from the furthest point back from there. It doesnt look like it will interfere, but i dont know what it could be.

Maybe someone else can help.

Just shoot me a pm if u have any questions.

RU-QWIK

iTrader: (3)

Airbag sensor...


Nice write up !!!

Jason

Bristol

iTrader: (1)

Love the write up with pictures!! Huge help for people like myself who find it easier if you see it rather than read it. Im in the middle of the swap right now . I hung the 4th gen pedals and master and slave. Working on the wiring tommorow. I just have 1 question for anyone. I got a complete pedal set for a 95 TA. It came with all 3 switches, clips, connectors, wiring etc. The wiring that came with it has 2 connectors that are black in color and are 2 pin. 1 connector plugs into the switch on the clutch pedal (cruise interupt ) and one the goes to the brake light / cruise interupt switch. The connectors are wired together. Into the first connector I have a red and a brown/white wire. The brown/white then has the other end connected to the second connector. Then have a solid brown wire that comes out of the remaing spot. Which wire red and brown matches with the wires from the blue connector in the pic. Thanks!!!

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

On the pedal set I have the clutch pedal has no stud to put a clip on. There's just a elongated hole in it for whatever through stud GM used there. I have a little stud and clip for the brake pedal, though...?

online170

Oh i guess the studs were just pressed in to accept the rods. But maybe someone removed yours for whatever reason?

You may need to find a way to get a stud in there. Otherwise if u tighten a bolt and a nut onto there it will bind, and may come loose. If that rod falls off while driving, it wont be nice.

You could also use one bolt and two nuts. Slide the bolt through, put one nut onto the bolt so that its "loose". Then put the other nut on, and tighten this one. This will give you some torque on the second nut, but the first nut wont be tight so it wont bind. However, you will still have play in your clutch pedal, and it could suck while driving, cuz your engagement will always be different. (Bad news for tranny and clutch).

Bristol, just connect your old connectors into the 4th gen pedals, and use your thirdgen wiring. Thats whta i did, and everything fits right in.

Bristol

iTrader: (1)

I dont mind using the third gen stuff just I think its easier to run all the 4th gen switches and wiring amd keep the cruise working.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Nevermind... I was looking at something farther down the pedal shaft. I went back trough the thread to find pictures of your pedals to get a good look at them and I finally saw where on the pedal the stud is, and checked mine and it's actually there after all. I'm quite relieved... I was going to a bolt and two or three nuts, but that idea just bothered me the same way it bothered you.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

With the hydraulics not attached to anything, should they be absolutely impossible to move? Or is that normal? THe pedal seriously WILL NOT MOVE with the clutch linkage attached to it... I'm wondering if I should go ahead and pull it apart and buy a new hydraulics setup?

I know it worked in the car it came out of... but that was about 6 months ago now...

I was wondering if I should bleed it... but wouldn't air in the lines make it extremely easy to depress, instead of too tight to move?

Screamin86

iTrader: (1)

just latching on for future refrence

DrummerDad

What a great write up. Good job man.

Ive got a couple questions, that I didnt see answered in the write up, though.

1) What did the total swap cost? Did you buy a donor car, or a swap "kit" from one of the f-body salvage yards? If you dont mind me asking. I see some vendors advertise $1200 for a complete swap kit, but I think thats a 5-speed.

2) Im going to be buying another engine next year. Im hoping all goes well, and I can get an L98(used). Would you think it would be easier to do this swap, along with an engine change? I noticed you had to lower the engine, and make a few changes, such as flexplate/flywheel, and starter, etc.. I think it would be easier to do both at once. Or would it be too much?

online170

1) Cost was a huge factor for me, and it ended up costing me roughly 1800-2000 by the end, when all was said and done. I had originally planned to spend $1200 (but dont kid yourself, it aint cheap). If you are considering doing a 5 speed swap and plan to make any kind of power, forget the T5. If youre talking about a TKO, thats different. The reason i rushed into my swap as soon as i did, was i was having availability issues finding the trans. I was thinking of importing one from the states for big $$$. Then by fluke, i found one down the road at a wrecker with a warranty, so i decided to go for it. Do some research, figure out what is best for you. I would recommend just going for a rebuilt unit to start, cuz its not much more for peace of mind.

2) If you plan it right, i think it would be easier to swap both in at once. I never lowered my engine, that was a step in between where i was positioning it right to have the trans go on. The engine sits at the same height as it did before the swap. If youre going with an L98, it will be much more straight forward for you, because you can use the original T56 flywheel, unlike me.

alloy

iTrader: (16)

About $1800 to $2000 sounds dead on. And it does add up quickly.

Off the top or my head the costs were:
T56 with bell housing, flywheel, hydraulics $1000
Spohn cross member for my existing spohn torque arm $186
trans rebuild kit, billet 3/4 keys, steel 3/4 fork $300
bronze fork pads $80
Long tail shaft bushing after shipping and buying special
"609" loctite $48
New clutch kit $200
New flywheel and clutch bolts $15
Used 3/4 syncro hub (mine was cracked) $45
transmission assembly goo $10
parts to modify tail housing for cable drive speedo,
special tooling, build a fixture to hold the housing $100
Grind (surface) flywheel $20
4 quarts of Mobil 1 ATF $20
Total to date: $2024

On list to buy at a later date:
Hurst billet plus shifter $185
New shifter boot (Cover Girl products) $25



And I've not got the trans in the car yet. I've been using my trans as a test setup for my cable conversions until just last week when I picked up a spare trans for this purpose.

I'm lucky that my car had a T5 and already has the pedals and that I can sell my T5 setup and get some of my investment back, along with hopefully selling my spohn T5 cross member. If I had to pay to have my trans rebuilt and installed I'd say add another $800 or possibly more. And again I was able to modify my trans to drive my speedo, but if I couldn't have done this it would have been another $300 for a Cable-X box, or if I had an electric speedo something to modify the signal to work with that type of speedo.

So $2000 if you can do all the work yourself including rebuilding the trans is right in the ball park. Yes I went with premium components in my rebuild, but the cost of parts failing in the future was on my mind when I put the solid syncro keys, (stock style keys were broken in the trans) steel fork, and bronze pads in.

Don't be afraid of tearing into a T56. It's a lot easier than it sounds. If you can put a cam in you can build a T56.

alloy

iTrader: (16)

Well after 4 months of planning and buying parts, waiting for time off to put my T56 in I finished the install today and have a few words of wisdom to add to this thread.

First off...........IT's WORTH EVERY PENNY you spend on a T56. I used all the good parts, and picked up a Hurst comp plus shifter off Ebay last week. Slicing melted butter is harder than shifting this trans. It's quite, up or down shifts are easy no matter what speed your going, my speedometer drive mod works perfectly and the speedometer is nice and steady, doesn't bounce at all. Dry weight of my T56 on my shipping scale is 121 pounds. The T5 is 79 pounds. So a difference of 42 pounds more than the T5.

Now the "challenges" I encountered. First off a Spohn cross member for a Spohn torque arm with a T56 does not clear Alston SFC's. Took some creative trimming to make it fit. And the 4th gen braided clutch hose did not fit my master/slave cylinders. Different hose ends on the the parts in my car, so I used the complete 4th gen hydraulics setup. And NO it's not fun getting the clutch master out and back in. And as others have mentioned the clutch engages at the top of the pedal travel with the 4th gen hydraulics. Takes some getting used to. Not sure if I'm going to change that or not yet. Only took one 5 mile test drive so far, so maybe later.

The reverse lockout isn't that bad to overcome with an 8" stick. I may wire up a switch for that later, easy to do at any time. I did however have to space my shifter over 3/4" to the left to get it almost centered in the console. Probably another 1/4" more it would be perfectly centered. I did have to cut the floor pan back about 1" so the T56 would clear. Pic below. Second pic is showing the difference of a T5 and a T56 in length where the shifter pocket is and gives you an idea why the floor pan had to be cut back slightly. Overall length is the same for both transmissions.

I did have a problem with the Rockland Standard Gear "no walk" rear bushing. After pressing it in I had to use a large soft hammer to drive the yoke into the back of the trans, and it took a 2' bar jammed into the u-joint to turn the drive shaft. I knew this wasn't right so I called Rockland and they told me to insert the yoke all the way into the back of the trans and take a large soft hammer and hit the u-joint sideways on all for sides........90 deg. apart. Like your trying to drive the u-joint out. Two hits every 90 deg. with my 5 pound dead blow hammer and I could turn the shaft with my hands. This totally solved the problem and I wasn't worried the yoke would gall the new bushing.

My T56 setup didn't come with a clutch dust shield, so I made a cardboard template and made one out of some aluminum sheet I had. This part is discontinued from GM now.

Now I need to go put my new T56 6spd. shift indicator plate on my console, and order me one of those trick Tremec 6spd. shifter *****.

http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English...150807_190.pdf

online170

would you mind sharing a few details?

Sounds like you did some fancy stuff. Im interested in the dust shield.

Got any pix? Where did you get the materials? What did you use to cut?

alloy

iTrader: (16)

I used some thin aluminum sheet I had. Before I found the sheet I was thinking of using a baking pan. They are thin and just big enough to make a shield out of. I found a set of 3 at WalMart for $4.99. The large one in the set I looked at was 17 1/2" wide which is just the right size and thickness.

I used tin snips, a drill, and a die grinder to shape the part. I have an extra engine block, so I bolted the bell housing to the block and started making my template. I had to wait to cut the starter hole since the only starter I had was on my car. Didn't take long to cut the hole for the started once I got started with the swap. Here's a pic of my cardboard template.

I forget to mention in my earlier post about the clutch master push rod. The 4th gen bushing is too small to fit over the 3rd gen stud on the clutch pedal, but if you pop the bushing out of the 4th gen rod, the 3rd gen bushing fits right in. You will however have to narrow the clevis end about .050. I used my belt sander for that. Worked great.

SomeGuy25thZ

I will be getting into a swap soon... 1994 z28 LT1 stroked to a 383 into my 92z and am in the process of getting a T-56 from a 95 trans am. By the end this thread will have each and every kind of swap there is...

Great job guys.

92camaroz28ss

iTrader: (1)

any ideas on how to change the high engagement point on the clutch? i have the 4th gen pedals and i really dont like it. it is especially noticeable since the last clutch i put in. i know a friend of mine who did the swap and it would grind when he tried to put it into reverse. he took out the hydraulics and had the rod cut and threaded to put an adjustment on there. how does this sound? i really hate a high engagement point! it makes me think the clutch is slipping

alloy

iTrader: (16)

I have the third gen pedals with 4th gen hydraulics as I mentioned in my post earlier, and also have the high engagement point. It's definitely not the pedals causing it.

online170

Ive never really noticed the high engagemnent because the pedal travel is so little.

Are you saying you can notice the high engagement from the last clutch you swapped IN THE T56? meaning, was the last clutch also in the t56?

As for the rod thing, i dont think thats a good idea. The rod youre talking about, controls how much the fork pulls the clutch off the flywheel. If you shorten the rod to get a "lower" engagement, you are also shortening the travel. It will still engage in the same place, but it will not "disengage" to the same extent. Meaning, you will never be able to fully disengage the clutch if you shorten the rod. Might cause you some trouble getting into first, or stopping in gear.

If you did notice a difference just from a clutch swap in the same transmission, you may have a problem.

I guess my clutch FULLY engages pretty high, but its is somewhat engaged as soon as i start letting the pedal out. The car will start moving if i have the clutch out about 20%, and will slip alot till about 70% and then only slip a little past that.


EDIT:

Do you guys depress the clutch pedal fully between shifts? I noticed myself doing this, it doesnt feel right to only push it in a smidge to shift.

alloy

iTrader: (16)

The high engagement point was the first thing I noticed when I started the car and put the T56 in gear for the first time and let the clutch out.

I agree that shortening the slave cylinder push rod probably isn't a great idea. I've read so many posts on LS1LT1.com about not being able to get a T56 into gear because the slave isn't pushing the pivot fork far enough. We seem to have the opposite problem with our swaps.

I have a spare set of 3rd gen pedals here I pulled today and from looking at them I don't believe there is any practical way to modify the pedal to change this, so I think we are pretty much left trying to shorten the clutch master push rod. But I'm not sure this will really accomplish anything. Yes the pedal will be a little further down, but it will still engage at the top of the travel. This is about as far as my thinking takes me tonight.

SomeGuy25thZ

Can someone post pics of both the 4th gen pedals and 3rd gen pedals side by side so we can see what exactly everyone is talking about? I am picking up 4th gen pedals this weekend and I will def. get on trying to figure this out because I def. do not want this to be more trouble driving than being fun...

online170

Its not any trouble. Its one of those "preference" things.

Pick a set of pedals and go with them.

92camaroz28ss

iTrader: (1)

this is what i meant. thats what someone i know did because of the grinding in reverse. sometime in the next couple of weeks i am going to do this. i will make sure to mark the stock length so i can always adjust it back to that if necessary.

i go out of town next weekend so i wont be able to do this for probabl at least 2 weeks. whenever i can do it i will post results here

alloy

iTrader: (16)

I guess I don't understand why anyone would shorten the slave push rod if they already have a problem with the clutch releasing causing grinding in reverse.

Again I'm not really sure if shortening the master push rod will do anything to help. As online170 said, it's not a problem. It's just going from a clutch that engages about half way up to one that engages at about the 80% position is a major change. I've had my T56 in for about 4 days now and still catch myself driving like the old setup is still in, pushing the clutch much further down than is needed now.

92camaroz28ss

iTrader: (1)

the master cylinder rod is the one im talking about, not the slave rod. my friend did it and he had no more grinding when going into reverse. when i can get around to it i will post results about how it worked. i just can not get used to the high engagement point, it annoys me.

alloy

iTrader: (16)

I did some searching today and found a few things that may be helpful concerning the clutch pedal position.

In the first pic I found this diagram posted by Tony89GTA back in 2003. Shows how to cut and modify the master push rod. The second pic is of a clutch pedal I pulled out of an extra set of 3rd gen pedals I have here. I found a post by sofa in 2006 talking about this problem. If it really is the difference of the stud being further from the pivot, then shortening the push rod probably won't make much of a difference.

Does anyone have a set of 4th gen pedals they could take apart and measure the distance between the pivot hole and the stud for the push rod like I've done in the second pic? The distance is right at 1-1/16" between the stud and pivot centers on 3rd gen pedals.

92camaroz28ss

iTrader: (1)

the first pic is exactly what i was talking about. my friend did this to stop from grinding in reverse.

i have a few people that may have a set of 4th gen pedals, i will try to get this measurement and post it here in the next day or two.

86camaro383

iTrader: (3)

ive been doing some research, centerforce isnt the only company that makes a conversion flywheel. RAM clutches does too, its aobut 15 bucks more, but it weighs 18LBs compared to centerforce's 30 LBS

92camaroz28ss

iTrader: (1)

would you happen to have part numbers for these? i would just like to make sure i have the right part in case i buy one. btw, what is different about tese flywheels anyway?

also how do i know if my engine is internally or externally balanced? i dont have a stock motor, its a crate engine if that makes a difference

92camaroz28ss

iTrader: (1)

i have a fix in the works. i took out the hydraulics to make them adjustable and will update you guys on how it works. the only difference is he adjustment is on the slave not the master. i should have time to start putting it back together tomorrow morning, now i hope i havnt destroyed another clutch already

iggy1991

I must have missed this in the writeup but I was curious how u find out what pilot bearing to use. One for the transmisson year make and model or the car or the original motor?

alloy

iTrader: (16)

I used the pilot bushing from the LT1 clutch kit I got, but it's identical to my old T5 one. Either one will work perfectly.

spills

iTrader: (9)

Jesus, that's alot of reading!

Im working on getting my T56 hopefully sometime this week, so this thread has been a definite help! My only concern about all this is the pedals, mainly because I hate getting under the dash to remove the brake booster, especially after I JUST replaced it with an LS1 master/booster combo!

ANother thing, whats the deal with skipshift? Do the LT1 T56s have this, or is this only on the LS1 T56s?

92camaroz28ss

iTrader: (1)

the lt1 tranny does have the skip shift, but if left unhooked its like it doesnt exist. the reverse lockout still does kind of block reverse, but it isnt too hard to just push the shifter past it into reverse. it can also be hooked up to a switch or the brake pedal and it will work just like it does on the factory lt1 and ls1 cars

spills

iTrader: (9)

so whats the deal with all these "skip shift eliminator" kits that Ive been seeing, is it essentially a connector that hooks to the harness connector and protects it incase you want to hook it back up again?

alloy

iTrader: (16)

The skip shift eliminator kits are for the cars that had that feature in them orininally. 3rd gens don't have that feature in the computer, so even if hooked up somehow there is no way to activate it.

Like 92camaroz28ss said, just leave it unhooked and don't worry about it. You can even remove the skip shift solenoid and plug it with a 20mm drain plug. Just one less thing hanging off the trans to get in the way.

alloy

iTrader: (16)

Just finished the adjustable clutch pedal push rod modification. I picked up a 3/8" x 16 NC hex die nut at a True Value store, along with a 3/8" coupling nut and two lock nuts. Cost was 4.21 with tax. I got a hex die instead of a traditional adjustable round die nut so I could use a 1" wrench on it.

I did this with the master still in the car. Disconnected the push rod at the top and used my die grinder with a cut off wheel on it. Cut the rod at 1-1/2" down from the flat on the rod. (see pic)

Where I cut the rod it is solid. The black line is where I cut it to remove a 1/2" long section, and again it was solid there. Do not remove a 1" section like in the diagram. That would be way too much as my push rod ended up being about 1/4" shorter. So cutting out 1" would probably scrap the rod.

The die nut started easily and with a little tap magic (almost any type of oil will work for this) it went on easily. Was a little tight doing the rod in the car, but not that bad really. The clevis end I did in a vise after cutting it off the rod.

After threading the rod I installed the coupling nut and threaded both ends in equally so the rod was 1/2" shorter. The clutch engaged well below where it was before, and the pedal sits lower that it used to. So I adjusted the rod about 1/4" longer and it seems perfect now. Even 1 turn of the rod makes a noticeable difference you can feel. Yes the clutch pedal sits lower doing this, but it's not noticeable when driving. The clutch engages just about half way up and feels normal like it did with the T5. I have about 1/4" free play at the top, so I know the push rod isn't pre-loading the master and holding the bearing out.

As far as I'm concerned this is the solution to the high pedal problem. I'm very happy how it came out. Took about 1/2 hour total and cost less than $5.

92camaroz28ss

iTrader: (1)

i just got my hudraulics back in a few days ago, but havnt driven the car yet. i wanted to do exactly what you did with the master rod, but the person i took it too said it would be a better idea to adjust the slave rod. the factory rod is untouches, instead i was given a way to adjust a bolt with a cut off head and rounded ends to make it very similiar to the factory piece. i should be able to drive the car tomorrow and will let you all know how that works out. worst case scenario is i can out the stock rod back in the slave and do this mod

spills

iTrader: (9)

PLEASE someone with a T56 PM me!! My T5 just crapped out on me, and the more I keep reading this thread, the more I want one!!

Back on topic, so if I remember, you used the pedals and hydraulics from the LT1 car? I would assume if you did you wouldn't have to shorten the master cylinder rod.

alloy

iTrader: (16)

If you read the entire thread you will see at least I had to use the LT1 style hydraulics and 3rd gen pedals. Couldn't use the 3rd gen hydraulics with the longer braided line because of different fittings on the line and it wouldn't work with the 3rd gen hydros. Someone else posted they used the 4th gen pedals and still had the high pedal problem. It's a VERY easy mod to thread the push rod. Even easier if I'd have done it before I installed the master cylinder. Would have taken 5 mins that way

Why do you need a PM? 99% of the info you need is here. Once you read all 4 pages, you will be well informed about a T56 swap. After reading everything, then ask your questions of us and I'm sure we will do all we can to help you with the swap.

spills

iTrader: (9)

I read this entire post a couple of days ago, I could not remember exactly how you worked out the pedals.

As far as the PM, I meant anyone who is wanting to sell a T56 setup, please PM me. Im aware of all of the info on this thread as well as elsewhere in the net, that's not what I was talking about. Perhaps I was not clear, sry for the confusion. Plus I didnt want to hijack your thread.

But back on topic...

92camaroz28ss

iTrader: (1)

anyone doing the adjustable master rod modification read this first!!
the rod is not solid all the way through. if you look at the rod when it comes out of the master, it is actually made up of 2 different rods, one coming out of the master and a second one with the loop for the pedal on it. they are joined together by something that looks like crimping. on the loop end of the rod there is a hollow spot where this joint is, i would guess the hollow spot extends about 1/2 inch towards the loop. i unfortunatle found this out the hard way a few weeks ago when i did this.

my solution was to buy a new coupler adaptor that took 3/8 thread on one side, and 1/4 thread on the other. i then bought an eye loop with i think 4" long threads on it to go onto the 1/4 thread side. this loop was small enough to almost snugly fit onto the pedal. i took the plastic bushing of the pedal, wrapped a little bit of electris tape around it to take up the slop between the loop and the bushing, then put it back on. this actually worked great. the engagement point actually stayed high on the pedal, but the whole pedal moved down making the engagement point lower to the floor. this is exactly what i wanted.

hopefully this info will help some people out there. and one more thing to mention - do not use locking nuts (ones with nylon bushing inside of them). when i was twisting this on is when the rod actually broke and i realized it had a hollow spot

alloy

iTrader: (16)

Did you cut your rod where the pic I posted said to cut? There was a reason I posted specific measurements and posted the pic with the text on it. If it's a stock 3rd gen rod then it's solid there, and yes lower down it's hollow. We all knew that and to stay away from that section.

92camaroz28ss

iTrader: (1)

i measured like your picture said and cut accordingly. nowhere in this thread did i read anything about the rod having a hollow spot. it is the stoch 4th gen hydraulics for an lt1. i used the dye to thread the rod, which heated the rod up. i then put the locking nut on, with the nylon insert. while i was twisting the nut on, the hollow spot in the rod broke.

the first picture shows the section i cut out, and the section that broke off, the second picture shows the broken part with the nut on it.

after this i had to extend the rod because too much was missing and the clutch would not fully disengage.

and for all of those people, like myself, who had never heard of a hollow spot in the rod, you now should know