Can you guys recommend a good T5 shifter? Preferably one with adjustable posititve stops, but not a must have. Also, does anyone know if a steeda tri-ax shifter for a fox mustang T5 would work, specifically this one? http://www.steeda.com/products/steed...emec_t5t45.php

No a Rustnag shifter won't fit our cars. At least, not without significant mods to the console.

However, Pro 5.0 and others who also happen to be in the Rustnag business, make ones that do. I'd look at that one specifically.

I have an old Hurst Comp Plus, but it has no stop bolts. IMO they're not necessary because of the way the shifter works, anyway; it's not like a 4-speed shifter with rods. Again IMO, they're an "eye candy" feature designed to make them attractive to people who merely think they should be there even on a single-rail shifter because "every" "high-performance shifter has them", as opposed to doing anything particularly useful.

Yeah, I've heard that the positive stops aren't necessary before. I'm fairly new to manual transmissions, I've always had automatic cars until now. Is it not possible to bend a shift fork or damage something else by "over shifting"? I'm mostly thinking of protecting the trans from me, while I learn to drive a manual trans with it. I've driven manual trans cars before, but never a DD, always just driving a friend's car.

Damn, that mustang shifter looks real nice. Since that one says it "finds third gear" with preloaded springs, do they make one for us that will "find fourth gear"?? I always grind 4th even just casual driving.

Shifter won't fix that.....

Needs a pilot bearing/bushing. If it's been going on long enough, it may have damaged the trans internally as well.

I love my Pro 5.0 shifter.

In some transimssions; not the T-5. It has "built-in" stops.

Look at the little metal slidey block thing that the shifter handle fits down into. Note that it is stopped by reaching the end of its possible travel in the little "arena" it's inside of: it smacks into the vertical wall of that space. At least, in the 2/4/R direction (toward the front of the case), I know FOR SURE it does; and I think it does in the 1/3/5 as well but I'm too lazy to get up and look at one.

Shifters with rods, like Muncies or T-10s, are a different matter altogether. But these, protect themselves inherently. That other is pretty much just for "looks" and to impress the impressionable.

Isnt that thing you mentioned one of the things you replace when you do the clutch? I plan on doing that in the next year, so...

Either way, I am sure my tranny is all sorts of f**ed up. I grind all the gears (reverse the most) at least a few times a day. Well, actually I hardly ever grind 1st, but it does make a loud "bang" when it spits the shifter back out of first, right as I am starting to move forward.

Yes, you (should) replace the pilot bearing when you do the clutch. It's the one that goes in the end of the crankshaft, that the transmission input shaft spins in. The other one is the throwout bearing, that's the one that the clutch fork presses on, and it can probably also be replaced when doing the clutch.

Not the transmission.

That's a clutch problem. Don't put it off until "some time in the next year". Do it RIGHT NOW. It is DESTROYING your transmission a little bit, EVERY TIME it grinds. You are NOT "saving money" by putting it off; you are COSTING YOURSELF MONEY. Kind of like brakes.

To minimize the grinding going into reverse, put the car into a forward gear, then shift into reverse. DO NOT just push in the clutch with the engine running and attempt to jam it into reverse: even in a PERFECTLY working car with a PERFECT clutch, it will grind by doing that, EVERY TIME. Reverse has no synchro, like the other gears do.

Every time you grind a gear, metal is being stripped off the teeth. Eventually there will be NO metal left. Meanswhile, your fluid, instead of being a lubricant, is now AN ABRASIVE, because it's filled with metal chips.

I know I know what it does. I have seen gears that have been ground, it looks like somebody burned all the teeth with a welder. But my clucth works fine. With it pressed in all the way, it works great. You can move the car by foot. So I know it is completely disengaged.

The way I see it, I need to find another T5. I just never read about them on here. Is there any website that sells a fully rebuilt tranny, so that I can rest assured that someone else didnt grind the gears before me?

And I know about the 1st>Rev. trick, but in some hills / parkinglots / driveways it still grinds alot.

You need a clutch. NOW. Don't make excuses, don't try to talk yourself into thinking it's alright, IT ISN'T. Doesn't matter about "move the car". That's a difference in RPM between the trans and the engine, of less than 5 RPM. On the other hand, when you're shifting the gears, that difference can easily be SEVERAL THOUSAND RPMs. What's happening, is it's NOT DISENGAGING FULLY; that's why ALL the gears grind.

It's IMPOSSIBLE for a transmission to do that to itself. For it to do so, would require 5 discrete parts to fail in the identical same manner, to the identical same degree, at the identical same time, and malfunction identically under identical circumstances. See my signature for a hint as to why this sort of thing is NOT an acceptable explanation for observed behavior.

Of course, that's why reverse grinds even after putting it in a forward gear, as well. It's IMPOSSIBLE for the guts of the transmission to just up and start spinning again on their own, after you've stopped everything in there by shifting it into a forward gear. The reason reverse grinds, is because the gears have started spinning again; and THE ONLY WAY to spin them, is for the CLUTCH not to be disengaging. Instead, it partly couples the engine to the trans at all times.

Again, see my sig for help understanding the situation. You have EVERY symptom that there is, of a clutch that doesn't disengage. It is self-defeating and even self-destructive (starting with your wallet) to convince yourself that the only possible explanation that accounts for what you're seeing, isn't true.

You NEED a clutch, NOW. The longer you wait, the worse your transmission will get. You probably don't really need a trans yet, but if it keeps up, eventually you will.

You WILL NOT like the price of a "fully rebuilt" T-5. A junk one is bad enough to have to pay for. CHANGE YOUR CLUTCH before you REALLY DO need one!!!

I've broken several sets of synchro keyways from stock shifters, and have seen others do it more often. The T5 may have internal stops, but they don't work the best in the world. If you have money for a shifter with stops, I would invest in it. If you don't, then cut your stock shifter 2 or 3 inches shorter with a hack saw and use a die to re-thread it. The die is usually a lot cheaper than a shifter, unless you buy it from Snap-on or the likes... I think the factory threads are 16mm x 1.5 or something like that.

Could the clutch throwout bearing just be worn? cause wouldnt a new clutch be thicker making it even more closer to the flywheel? a clutch kit is only 120$ anyway tho i guess so might aswell replace the works maybe even upgrade the clutch while its out.

would this shifter work for my 90t5 in my 83 ta?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

try bleeding the system. it should release about halfway of the floor