zexel torsen... Ok... I cant find one, nowhere, didn find it on slp´s site and It aint on ebay... Or should I forget about that one and go with the Eaton lsd instead? any other suggestions? I need it for a (soon to be) daily driven 89RS 327/T56 car 350-400hp

ebay, sometimes

look at the detroit trutrac, its similar, and a good unit

K, thx, the true-track seems to be just as hard to find though

There's probably one in here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/02-LS...QQcmdZViewItem

You can contact him to see if he will pull the cover and take a picture or not...

No; and you never will

The ones SLP had years ago, were stock take-outs, when they were installing the SS package on them. They put something else in to replace it. When they quit making SSs (after 2002), they quit acquiring those "used" units. They sold the last ones in about 2005.

Since they were just stock ones, you can get them quite easily. Just look for anybody selling a 98-02 Camaro/Firebird rear end described either with posi, or from a V8 car. It'll have one of those. They show up on eBay ALL the time, just like KrisW's link; just, not necessarily listed as "Zexel Torsen", like Kris's link again. You just have to be a little more creative in your searching and filtering.

ok guys, thanks for that. I probably found one locally (I live in Iceland hehe). I guess it would be a bit pricey to ship the hole axle oversea for only the diff.

You can buy them here...they only have the HD units though...and they run $600.00.

Reider Racing-Zexel Torsen.htm

Does anyone know if the HD units that SLP used to sell are the ones that Reider now sells for $600?

Thanks

I went to the Torsen web site and did alot of research before buying mine. The tech at Reider assured me that the High Biased ones they had are the HD versions of the Torsen units. IF you have any questions, I highly suggest you call them..or call some of the other people who sell them to compare. Since SLP doesn't sell them anymore I think that's about the only way you are really going to know. Wish I could be more help.

Thanks, I appreciate any help. I already have one of the HD units that SLP used to sell. I was wanting to know some info on it as it came with none and IIRC SLP's old web pages did not offer much either. Anyway it's fixing to get off it's axx as I have done the same and building a new rear finally.
DM

The main difference between the normal unit and the HD unit is how it acts when one wheel completely loses traction. The normal Torsen unit, is a posi unit...however is one wheel loses 100% of it's traction, the unit acts as an open rear-end...only one wheel will spin. For it to act as a posi unit both wheels must have some traction.

The HD or High Biased unit has clutches built into it that will make it remain a posi unit even if one wheel loses 100% of it's traction.

It's all on the torsen web site if you're into looking it up and reading about it.

The SLP units were the normal duty versions that came stock in the 98-02 f-bodies. In most cases, the stock one performs just fine. Most people that spend the big money on the HD units use their cars in serious autocrossing events and what not, since the HD Torsen is said to be awesome for that type of competition. The great thing about the stock 98-02 units is they're easy to score on ebay for less than $100 a lot of times. That's a great price for a good, reliable posi unit. I've bought 2 of them off ebay for cheap. I just finished upgrading a pegleg, 3.42 rear I had laying around with one of the torsens I bought, a solid pinion spacer, T/A girdle, and a set of 28 spline axles. It was inexpensive, easy to do, and turned out super nice. When I swapped the original ring gear onto the torsen carrier, I just re-used the original carrier shims on each side, and the backlash came out at a perfect .006". Can't wait to put it under the car and try it out! Probably throw it in over the holiday weekend coming up.

Thanks for the info guys. I also have one of those take out Torsens from when they had them for cheap. I bought the HD when I was planning a track days car. Pat I wished I was ready for this weekend to install also but I'm still tearing down the 3.08 rear. New GM 3.42's and the Torsen will get installed soon if all goes as planned. But I do have to get one of those solid spacers like Pat mentioned. I've never used one but heard that it's better than the crush sleeve.

Are there any links to instructions for the solid spacer? I'm a bit lost on how to install/set it.

Thanks

I much prefer using the solid spacer versus a crush sleeve. I think they're actually easier to set up. The crush sleeve is a PITA since it takes so much torque to get them to start collapsing, and when they do start to collapse, it's real easy to collapse one too far and have to start over with a new one. As far as procedure to install one goes, what I did on the last one was I took my digital calipers and measured the height of the old crush sleeve, then measured the height of the solid spacer, then added the right amount of shims to where it equaled the height of the old crush sleeve. You'll need an inch pound torque wrench to measure the rotating torque required to spin the yoke/pinion assembly. I always hold off on putting the new pinion seal in until I get the correct shim combination required for the proper amount of preload. It took me about 3 tries on the last one I did before getting the right shim combination needed for the correct preload. After you've put the new seal in and you're ready to do the final assembly, put a few drops of red (permanent) loctite on the threads of the pinion before putting the nut back on. Btw, the pinion bearing preload needs to be measured without the carrier/ring gear assembly. If you're using the old pinion bearings, set the preload to 15-17 inch pounds. If you're using new bearings, set the preload to 25-27 inch pounds. You can use a big pair of channel locks or a pipe wrench to hold the yoke still while tightening the pinion nut. With a crush sleeve you really need the tool that holds the yoke still since you have to tighten the hell out of the nut. With the solid spacer it usually doesn't take a ton of torque on the nut before achieving proper bearing preload, so the channel locks or pipe wrench is adequate for holding the yoke still. That's also why it's important to put red loctite on the pinion threads. You don't want the nut to loosen up and back off later. I only use a crush sleeve if someone insists on doing it that way. I use the solid spacer every time when I'm setting up a rear for one of my cars. It's so much easier, not to mention it's a stronger way to do it. It also makes it a lot easier to re-establish the bearing preload if you have to replace a leaky pinion seal down the road. When you buy a solid spacer it usually comes with a small instruction sheet and 5 shims of different thicknesses. Hey DM, if you have any more questions when you go to install yours, feel free to shoot me a PM. Just make sure you have a dial or pointer style inch pound torque wrench on hand when you go to do this. It's the only way to get the preload set correctly. You can end up a long ways off just trying to set it by proper feel. I always put a new pinion seal in since it's the perfect time to replace it. Make sure to smear a small amount of gear lube on the rubber lip of the new seal before putting the yoke back on. If it's installed dry, the friction of the pinion yoke can burn the lip and cause a leak.

I have one of the torsen units as well. If I have the time I will be setting it up this weekend on my car. I also use the solid spacer instead of the crush sleeve, I was always told it made the rear weeker by the guys who taught me.

Thanks Pat, that's a great explanation. Now it clicks. You're just limiting the tightness. Simple. I have about everything that you mentioned plus new bearings. I still need the solid spacer and a dial or pointer style inch pound torque wrench. I'll have to look for one of those wrench's at work as I only have a click style and most at work are probably the same. I borrowed a bearing puller for the pinion gear today so I can get the old shim out.

DM

Yeah, basically if you need more preload on the bearings to get them in spec, you subtract shims, and if it gets really tight too quick, then you need to add a shim or two. The reason you need a dial type or pointer type torque wrench is so you can watch the needle while you're rotating the yoke/pinion around in a circle. I managed to snag a Snap-On, dial type one in brand new condition off ebay for about $135, which was a killer deal considering they cost over $300 off the Snap-On trucks. Of course if you don't set up rearends all that often, your best bet would be to borrow one from your work or some mechanic if you happen to know one who's willing to loan out a tool for a day.

Well I got two out of three on my list for today. Red loctite and made a tool to press the pinion bearing on with. A couple grand worth of torque wrench's at work and every dang one is a clicker. I may have to opt for an el cheapo at the parts store if that will suffice.

Beam style torque wrench:

K&D Tools, model 2955

0 - 60 in/lb, 1/4 drive

To keep the oil from seeping out past the yoke splines I use PST on them.

RBob.

Thanks Bob. Found it here if anyone needs one.

http://www.toolsource.com/kd-tools-m...99&sort=3a

I'll try to find it local this weekend.


What's PST?

PST: Pipe thread Sealant with Teflon. Comes in a white tube made by Loctite. I prefer this over teflon tape on pipe threads. Also use it on rocker studs, head bolts, etc.

RBob.

Thanks!

I probably already have some as I remember using it on head bolts.

Have a good 4th